UKC

As I'm starting to think of heading to the Alps this summer I'm considering upgrading some of my kit. As I've had my Salomons for the best part of 16 years I thought I'd I's start there. I'm not expecting to climb anything hard but something that will do everything to an OK stanadrd is what I'm after. It seemed to me that everyone used to just wear Trango S boots but they've been discontinued so, the choices, depending on fit, seem to be:

Scarpa Charmoz OD http://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain/charmoz-od/

or the two La Sportiva options (I'm not really sure of the pros/cons of either):

Trango Cube http://www.lasportiva.com/en/trango-cube-gtx

Trango Tower http://www.lasportiva.com/eshop/product/La-Sportiva-Mountaineering-Trango-T...

Any opinions etc? I seem to remember reading that OutDry does better than Gore-Tex in boots but apart from that they all seem much of a muchness.

In reply to galpinos:

A friend (Danny, we were in Norway with him) has the Trango Cubes and really doesn't recommend them. I can't comment on the other two you've mentioned.

I use LS Trango S Evos for summer alps and they are the mutts nuts - light, comfy, waterproof, pretty good for climbing in (when I did the Cassin a few years back the couple behind us were climbing in them!), B2 ... plenty of deals on them at the moment too.

I'll probably be out in the Alps for some of the summer, so give me a shout if you want to meet up!

In reply to galpinos:

I have the trango cubes. I've spend about two weeks walking in them in Scotland and done two easy winter routes in them; I rate them. That said, maybe the just fit my feet well. For the alps this year I'm taking those and a pair of Baturas for icier/steeper/higher things.

In reply to galpinos:

Garmont Tower models should also be on the table. I enjoyed mine a lot, until I DIY'd them as my fruitboots in which they are still going strong.

In reply to galpinos:

I have a pair of Trango Extremes (paired with some Petzl Lynx), which have been ideal for everything I've looked at so far (easy snow and rock, up to PD+), and I don't see being the limiting factor in me climbing more technical routes in the future. They're still available if you look around online.

Can't comment on the Trango Cube or other newer boots.

In reply to galpinos:

I've a got a brand spanking new pair of these sitting on the floor for a future UKC review http://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain/zodiac-tech-gtx/ I haven't used them outside yet so I won't make any great claims about them but worth considering as they are even lighter than the Charmoz.

I've had the original (no GTX) Trango S for 16 years and they have done well, including having done a fair amount of ice climbing in them. I hope the Zodiacs will be a worthy successor.

In reply to HimTiggins:

Good to hear from you Tim! The Trango S always seemed ubiquitous so I was surprised when they were discontinued. Will see if I can find somewhere to try some on.

Not sure when/how long I manage in the Alps but trying to make sure it happens...... Would be good to do a few climbs together again though.

In reply to HeMa:

Look good but a bit trickier to source in the UK.

In reply to galpinos:

I was in a similar situation recently. Ended up getting the green trango s evo. Tried on the charmoz but had some heel rubbing. They were very nice though. The cube's were ridiculously narrow, way more so than other sportiva models. The Tower is the direct replacement for the trango s evo which has been discontinued so would presumably be similar

Also tried on the salewa raven which again were good just didn't fit quite as nicely as the trango. Could check aku terrealte/tengu.

I previously considered myself to have pretty wide feet (fallen arches) so was surprised the trango's fitted the best

In reply to TomGB:

Cheers for the feedback Tom. I'd say I was in the narrow feet club so they might not be for me, we shall see.

In reply to galpinos:

Might be true, and ordering online might be the way. tele-Pyrenees has always been rather helpful, and they also sell Garmonts.

In reply to galpinos:

When my boot sole came adrift in the Cairngorms, I trawled the Aviemore shops for a replacement.

I tried the Scarpa Charmoz. They felt very comfortable, apart from the fact that they were too narrow for my feet. At £250, I wasn't prepared to hope that they'd stretch.

I hired some for the next few days...

In reply to galpinos:

I use Trango Cubes as my summer alpinism boot. I think they're great, but as was said below, maybe that's just down to fit. No objective problems have popped up yet (e.g. build quality, waterproofing, warmth etc.)

In reply to galpinos:

Has anyone had any experience with these decathlon boots?
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/mountaineering-boots-blue-id_8324357.html

In reply to galpinos:
La Sportive's and Scarpa seem to be the common boots people think off and the one often stocked, fine if they fit you but they are not the only boots out there. Personally La Sportiva's just don't fit me at all. Scarpa some fit, but I don't seem to get on well with there alpine/winter boots. Charmoz/Mantas don't feel right for me and I've just given up wearing a pair of B3 Jorasses Pro's after 2 years of crippling agony. Have replaced the Jorasses with Mammut B3's which fit me much better and are total pleasure by comparison. I've also had a pair of Asolo B2's for several years which are a sort of Chamoz style and have been great. Guess what I'm saying is that if possible try to find shops stocking alternatives to the big two manufacturers and see how they fit you. Some are cheaper as well.

Lee

In reply to thlcr1:

Agree have a pair of B2 Asolo Alpinist(?) suit my feet (wide forefoot, narrow heel) much better than La Sportiva or Scarpas.

In reply to yelotango:

Wide forefront narrow heel, that's me to. I think my Asolo's are Ascender's they were quite a lot cheaper than the Charmoz and fit much better for me. Saw some last year going for peanuts in Field and Trek.

Lee