UKC

Check out “Deadly quickdraws: explained” from team_BMC on Vimeo.

The video is available for your viewing pleasure at vimeo.com/70397022

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

This is 4 years old

In reply to gethin_allen:


That doesn't necessarily mean that everyone is aware of it, or it's not worth reminding people.

In reply to gethin_allen:
For the people who just started climbing for the first time since 4 years ago.
Even alot of people from 4 yrs ago + beyond may not have seen this.

Whilst many quickdraws are bought already made up, or even if putting your own together, will be made with sewn slings, so this mistake is unlikely for them, but some people may add a keeper to open slings too.

Ocun (and petzl?) sell keepers separatley.
It could be an easy mistake to make.

Some people invent their own keeper by wrapping sticky tape... Can the same accident happen this way.. Think so... will have to check...?

Also, A young italian prodigy, Tito Traversa, tragically died when SEWN slings were used, but only the rubber was clipped. There are several news reports online re that accident... some years ago
https://www.google.co.uk/amp/www.climbing.com/.amp/news/the-quickdraws-that...

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

The Tito incident didn't happen from the same mode of failure, the issue with the home made slings with keepers is that they can twist up in your bag and you not notice. There was something very peculiar with the Tito incident, call me a cynic/conspiracy theorist but I suspect foul play/prank that went horribly wrong.
Surely any sensible person gives their gear a once over before racking up and then a quick tug when placed just to settle the mind that the gear is solid and you've not done anything daft.

My issue with your initial post is that you've decided to appoint yourself the H+S manager for the climbing community by posting things up that were years old without any indication why. If you'd justified yourself, eg if such a failure had happened to you or your associates recently and it had brought it to your attention once more then I'd accept that, but coming out with it randomly like this you seem to be assuming the rest of the world as idiots.

In reply to gethin_allen:

Personally, I don't have any problems with this video being brought to people's attention, even though I've seen it before (and changed my climbing practices as a direct result of seeing it). It's relevant, it's posted in the beginners section (presumably in good faith) and it might just save a newbie from a squishy demise.

Keep the info coming-newbies can learn something and old hands can simply skip on by if it's old news to them

In reply to gethin_allen:

Ha! That's bizarre and a bit OTT!

No i'm just learning stuff myself and having been out of climbing for 25-30 yrs there's a lot of stuff i wasn't aware of.

I did mention the Tito incident was slightly different, but both worth drawing attention to.
I'm quite happy to keep posting stuff like this, old + new, especially in the beginners section.
There's lots of people who have yet to find out stuff, not everyone has time to read around, plenty of stuff like this that can be posted here.

"If i'd justified myself by having experience of it". .. Ok so i have to wait until personal tragedy in your opinion! ... no need for anyone to have experience of what can go wrong to inform others about it.

This would seem to be the most appropriate place for posting random stuff that saves lives, why don't you share the next one you come accross with us too.

I don't think it's a good idea to be discouraging posts like the one that has irked you.

Check out my latest vid post in "knots in slings" ... What happens there is kind of amazing... How many people didn't know the risk.. perhaps just me.

I don't think the OP of "knot the end of your rope" was there neither, but someone had a lucky escape. (rock talk page)

That one has happened to me though, i decked onto my back being lowered off.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Thanks for posting this. Useful post, but of course this being internet, so haters gonna hate

In reply to gethin_allen:


It really should be the other way around.

Every time there is an accident or incident posts start popping up of people asking for details, then people saying this is not the time to ask for details, followed by people saying there should be accident reporting and databases of accidents, and then the news wear off and everyone forgets about it.

The fact is climbing's been around long enough that we have discovered via Darwinism pretty much every conceivable way we can kill oursleves, and the knowledge is out there, and it really shouldn't be after an accident that people gets a passing interest on spreading the message lasting as far as the next "winter route climbed when not in nick" thread gets posted.

Once the accident has happened and somebody got hurt we as a community have already failed in passing that knowledge which may have saved that person, so for what is worth i'm all for people spamming the forums with posts like this in exchange for reducing the "terrible news from xxxx" posts.

You never know, maybe because of this thread next Monday we get one from LankyTimmy saying how amazing his weekend was on his first outing climbing in North Wales instead of getting a thread with a linked article from BBC news that reads "Tim Allen, 18 years of age and 6'1", suffered fatal injuries Sunday afternoon when his rope disconnected from the anchors after a fall in North Wales". (followed by a bunch of speculation, bickering, sugestions of an accident reporting forum, somebody posting the OP's video, and ....wait, what's that? Someboy logged Savage Slit this Sunday? Back in a sec, off to check the turf freeze data...)