UKC

Hi ukc folk,
Where would be the best place to learn trad climbing? ie easy mod or dif routes where I can practice placing gear?
I have a few nuts and plan to buy more but not sure on committing to buying cams yet.
Ie which crags and routes?

In reply to Tim saville:

where are you based?

In reply to Tim saville:

I would start with a short course. Google should find you plenty, though from personal experience I can recommend Rock & Sun and, of course, Plas Y Brenin. Once you've been properly taught the basics of placing gear and building anchors then you can look at joining a club and getting outside for some experience.

Clubs, however, are generally not set up to teach people with zero experience and, for liability reasons, are very unlikely to offer any formal training. And, to be honest, few club climbers want to spend their precious weekends away teaching people basic gear placement.

In reply to itsThere:

In the flatlands of Suffolk, so looking at peaks and wales basically

In reply to Tim saville:

This looks a good option for the Peak, but I haven't been:

Windgather Rocks

In reply to Tim saville:

I echo Barry's comments, the money you'd pay for a set of cams you'd get yourself onto a 2-3 day course with an AMI member and they'd structure the day's to ensure you learn plenty of skills and techniques, you'd do a shed load of climbing alongside a qualified instructor, practice all aspects of climbing and pick up some really helpful advice, nothing beats practice like going climbing.

Not sure about Peak based people but North Wales would see you able to get several dates that suit, PyB run courses all the time however some smaller independent companies are always worth the look, try Jez Brown (I'm sure he'll be along soon) for a start.

In reply to Jimbob11:

If you don't get any personal recommendations check the directory https://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/ or do a bit of google. Lots of people in the Peak who can show you the ropes, you can check their credentials on http://www.mountain-training.org/find/find-a-leader . Money well spent - learn better practice faster, not detracting from other people's weekend, supporting the climbing scene

In reply to Tim saville:

Have you looked for any local clubs ? clubs are always happy to take folk out that are enthusiastic to join in and improve. In answer to your question the Peak district is probably best for you, but I'd suggest trying as many rock types as soon as possible

In reply to Tim saville:

+1 for Plas Y Brenin.

In reply to Tim saville:

Good how to guides here:

http://libbypeterclimbing.co.uk/downloads.html

In reply to Tim saville:

+1 for Windgather Rocks. And also +1 for hiring an AMI instructor.

Just doing a 1 day course you'll learn loads that would take you quite a while to pick up yourself from books etc.
Guessing you'll want to get the most from your days in the Peak if you're travelling up from Suffolk.

In reply to Tim saville:

You don't have to actually climb to get better at placing gear. Grab your nuts and go for a wander around any bit of rock you can find locally-they don't even have to be crags and you can do it standing on the floor!

Pop bits of gear here, there and everywhere. Examine the placements, see what works (and learn what doesn't!). If you have to travel a long way to crags, this can be a useful way of making better use of your limited time at proper venues.

As above, windgather is a great place to learn, with lots of friendly routes. However, one or two routes are a bit bold in places, despite beginner-tempting grades, and building belays at the top requires a bit of cunning in a few areas.

Mike.

In reply to Tim saville:

Well as Jimbo mentioned me... (Thanks very much!)

I run courses in North Wales, website link in my profile, and I think it's the best place to learn, on a course or otherwise!

When I'm teaching I'll often teach on multi pitch stuff because you get so much opportunity for teaching / learning.

From Suffolk I'd go with N Wales or the Peak.

In reply to Otis:


I'm not sure someone will necessarily learn good gear placement doing this. It's not always obvious how gear will be pulled during a fall. There's the danger that someone might get very good a placing gear which can take a downward pull and then have it all unzip during a real fall. Hence why it's probably better to start with a bit of professional training.

(Cue the dislikes - see if I care)

In reply to Otis:


This is an interesting point. "need". Its a very individual thing, isn't it ? Some people apparently don't need to practice at all - I've climbed with plenty of sport climbers (UK and mainland Europe) on their first trad lead and they just took to it. No faffing. No introspection. Perfect placements. Other people need the confidence boost from practice or even lessons. This is why its always hard to give advice on these threads - if you are a natural or are happy to work things out as you go (and lets face it, to put wedge of metal in a crack doesn't need rocket science) then you will tend to go for 'on the job training', as they say. More nervous or risk averse people will advise a very much more structured learning process.

Like all things climbing, so much of it is in the head.

In reply to Tim saville:

Second all of the above. In terms of crags for beginners, Birchen is a decent venue with a lot of short, easy graded routes. Have fun!

In reply to Tim saville:

I'd suggest Yarncliffe in the Peak District.
Very short walk in, easy angled slab, some easy routes, trees at the tops for bomb proof belays and a very easy walk down from the top.

In reply to WaterMonkey:

But also very busy with 'outdoor' groups who tend to try to monopolise the place, especially the easier routes. They don't go near harder stuff except to ab down them and wear the few small holds off!

In reply to johncook:


Not my experience. We had the place all to ourselves for my first trad climb!

In reply to Tim saville:

If you don't have cams then cutting your trad teeth in the Peak district may involve some unnerving run outs - natural grit lends itself to horizontal breaks that love cams, less opportunities for nuts than some other rocktypes typically.
Places to get on some easy stuff that is nut friendly include Tryfan Fach in Snowdonia and at the other end of Wales Three Cliffs Bay (you'll need to look at tides for this one) but it is an idyllic stroll across the sands to find plenty of shortish, easy, gear friendly and fun single pitch routes.