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Good evening all, welcome to the May bank holiday edition of fit club we are on the road back from the lakes this evening so a placeholder will have to do until later...
3
Thanks for all the stories of fear and falling! The worst story without any doubt was Just Tintin finding a pocket full of angry guepes. I hope I am never in that situation.
OK bit of an experiment this week- inspired by Ally’s awesome cave videos, your ‘homework’ is to take/share a video of yourself failing at something. You can interpret that how you like, it can be as big/small as a redpoint attempt, trying to nail 1-4-7 on a campus board, or trying to do a 1 armed pull-up. Also feel free to say ‘Guy thats a stupid idea, I’m not interested'!
(If you want to get involved with this but are struggling to actually share a video, drop me a message and I can help you out. I’m just going to post to google photo's and share the URL but youtube/vimeo works too)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=662722
TonyB: Hopefully it was still an enjoyable trip with the fan despite productivity levels?
biscuit: It’s bizarrely satisfying to take a fall on trad gear (assuming it’s well placed). Did you get your 90 miles on the bike in?
AlanLittle: Excellent work on the 7b, always good when you can use technique or tiny adjustments rather than strength. How many sessions/time did you put into this route to work it out?
guy127917: stretching isn’t pointless you dummy
mattrm: A blue hexes are probably the most reassuring thing to have below you if you are going to take a trad whipper!
AJM: Shame about the ride, hope you got out in Dartmoor?
alx: Sounds like the intense schedule is working for you right now then, have you thought about the taper before your trip?
ianstevens: Congratulations on the race placing, and getting on your project this week. Feeling wiped after a rest day seems quite common, but I have no idea why it happens!?
annak: Good to hear RP’ing is going well. I think keeping moves and sequences into your head is mainly practice so I’m sure that will improve as you go- one easy way to help the process is just to talk about the moves (Dave Mcleod talks about this quite a bit in 9/10 climbers)
ad111: So how was the first week on your 3 week training programme?
hms: OK this thing about feeling pressure on foreign trips- is that something you’ve tried to address? (other than by going on more trips)
the sheep: Yes your running goal for the year is going super well, keep it up!
Ally Smith: Well done on the deadlift PB and MTG. How is the finger- do you have any specific active recovery activities?
Jen Jones: Thanks for the yoga link- will try this next week. Nice work getting your goals together and working towards them!
Richard Popp: Great to hear you’re feeling better. Nothing like some onsight soloing to bring some focus.
leeboy: I heard slow and steady wins the race! Nice work with the trad, you’re doing pretty well if you don’t trust the gear!
Dandan: Big congrats on the ticks, finding a new project and staying uninjured. Interesting to me you struggled on a 7a tech slab, actually a good reminder that crushing finger strength doesn’t solve everything
hokkyo: How did the 3 peaks go?
Spengler: Just remember, if you’re not getting better at something, it must mean you are not training correctly- maybe lacking specificity, overload, recovery etc
Just Tintin: When is your trip to Squamish? Jen and I are off at the end of June so let us know how you get on!
Tyler: You say poor week last week but you got 4 sessions in- do you mean you are performing below your expectations?
OK bit of an experiment this week- inspired by Ally’s awesome cave videos, your ‘homework’ is to take/share a video of yourself failing at something. You can interpret that how you like, it can be as big/small as a redpoint attempt, trying to nail 1-4-7 on a campus board, or trying to do a 1 armed pull-up. Also feel free to say ‘Guy thats a stupid idea, I’m not interested'!
(If you want to get involved with this but are struggling to actually share a video, drop me a message and I can help you out. I’m just going to post to google photo's and share the URL but youtube/vimeo works too)
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=662722
TonyB: Hopefully it was still an enjoyable trip with the fan despite productivity levels?
biscuit: It’s bizarrely satisfying to take a fall on trad gear (assuming it’s well placed). Did you get your 90 miles on the bike in?
AlanLittle: Excellent work on the 7b, always good when you can use technique or tiny adjustments rather than strength. How many sessions/time did you put into this route to work it out?
guy127917: stretching isn’t pointless you dummy
mattrm: A blue hexes are probably the most reassuring thing to have below you if you are going to take a trad whipper!
AJM: Shame about the ride, hope you got out in Dartmoor?
alx: Sounds like the intense schedule is working for you right now then, have you thought about the taper before your trip?
ianstevens: Congratulations on the race placing, and getting on your project this week. Feeling wiped after a rest day seems quite common, but I have no idea why it happens!?
annak: Good to hear RP’ing is going well. I think keeping moves and sequences into your head is mainly practice so I’m sure that will improve as you go- one easy way to help the process is just to talk about the moves (Dave Mcleod talks about this quite a bit in 9/10 climbers)
ad111: So how was the first week on your 3 week training programme?
hms: OK this thing about feeling pressure on foreign trips- is that something you’ve tried to address? (other than by going on more trips)
the sheep: Yes your running goal for the year is going super well, keep it up!
Ally Smith: Well done on the deadlift PB and MTG. How is the finger- do you have any specific active recovery activities?
Jen Jones: Thanks for the yoga link- will try this next week. Nice work getting your goals together and working towards them!
Richard Popp: Great to hear you’re feeling better. Nothing like some onsight soloing to bring some focus.
leeboy: I heard slow and steady wins the race! Nice work with the trad, you’re doing pretty well if you don’t trust the gear!
Dandan: Big congrats on the ticks, finding a new project and staying uninjured. Interesting to me you struggled on a 7a tech slab, actually a good reminder that crushing finger strength doesn’t solve everything
hokkyo: How did the 3 peaks go?
Spengler: Just remember, if you’re not getting better at something, it must mean you are not training correctly- maybe lacking specificity, overload, recovery etc
Just Tintin: When is your trip to Squamish? Jen and I are off at the end of June so let us know how you get on!
Tyler: You say poor week last week but you got 4 sessions in- do you mean you are performing below your expectations?
4
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks. Two sessions and about half a dozen goes in total. I've never spent more than about seven or eight goes on anything, so don't really have the faintest idea what actual projecting is.
Except Wuthering Heights on the moonboard now I come to think of it. I've been working that for well over a month, and have a previous highpoint of actually having *touched* the finishing hold that I haven't been able to come close to repeating. Probably need to buy some dice.
> AlanLittle: Excellent work on the 7b, always good when you can use technique or tiny adjustments rather than strength. How many sessions/time did you put into this route to work it out?
Thanks. Two sessions and about half a dozen goes in total. I've never spent more than about seven or eight goes on anything, so don't really have the faintest idea what actual projecting is.
Except Wuthering Heights on the moonboard now I come to think of it. I've been working that for well over a month, and have a previous highpoint of actually having *touched* the finishing hold that I haven't been able to come close to repeating. Probably need to buy some dice.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Redpoint lite on trips abroad is fine, but there is something really psychologically draining about spending a week long trip trying and retrying 1 route and coming away with no ticks at all. Plus I get really seriously jittery before hard redpoint attempts at the best of times (Ally - think how many times you've heard me say 'I feel sick'!!).
Busy week this week:
M - cycle commute. Yoga concentrating on rotator cuff, oh goodie.
T - cycle commute. FB warmup then 7/3/8/4 three times on smallest crimp with 5kg assist, managing to keep good form throughout. Pullups. 50 pressups in blocks of 10. 50 situps ditto.
W - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. UCR, feeling really strong. 14 routes mainly in pairs, including to the penultimate hold on a 7a+, twice, success on another 7a+ and doing all the moves in links on a brutal 7b.
F - 4 miles urban walking. Session shunting War on Words at Armistice. I swear it isn't 7c - has something fallen off since the last ascent about 13 years ago?!
S - Cheddar with D1. Quick 7a repeat as a warmup then working a surprisingly dry Sweet Tufa. I can do the first 3 clips, next one is hard and I don't have a sequence yet, final clip I haven't tried yet. The route is pretty straight and not much off vert so totally shuntable.
S - Redpoint. The main wall has been totally reset since my last visit so hurled myself at lots of stuff and topped very little. Was struggling with the clips a lot on a couple of routes (7a with huge moves, 7b with minging crimps). Also it was 4th day on!
Provence is now 2 weeks away so I need to taper a bit. Next weekend I'm bouldering on Dartmoor with Husband, so also need to watch that I don't terminally shred my skin.
Thanks Guy. Redpoint lite on trips abroad is fine, but there is something really psychologically draining about spending a week long trip trying and retrying 1 route and coming away with no ticks at all. Plus I get really seriously jittery before hard redpoint attempts at the best of times (Ally - think how many times you've heard me say 'I feel sick'!!).
Busy week this week:
M - cycle commute. Yoga concentrating on rotator cuff, oh goodie.
T - cycle commute. FB warmup then 7/3/8/4 three times on smallest crimp with 5kg assist, managing to keep good form throughout. Pullups. 50 pressups in blocks of 10. 50 situps ditto.
W - cycle commute.
T - cycle commute. UCR, feeling really strong. 14 routes mainly in pairs, including to the penultimate hold on a 7a+, twice, success on another 7a+ and doing all the moves in links on a brutal 7b.
F - 4 miles urban walking. Session shunting War on Words at Armistice. I swear it isn't 7c - has something fallen off since the last ascent about 13 years ago?!
S - Cheddar with D1. Quick 7a repeat as a warmup then working a surprisingly dry Sweet Tufa. I can do the first 3 clips, next one is hard and I don't have a sequence yet, final clip I haven't tried yet. The route is pretty straight and not much off vert so totally shuntable.
S - Redpoint. The main wall has been totally reset since my last visit so hurled myself at lots of stuff and topped very little. Was struggling with the clips a lot on a couple of routes (7a with huge moves, 7b with minging crimps). Also it was 4th day on!
Provence is now 2 weeks away so I need to taper a bit. Next weekend I'm bouldering on Dartmoor with Husband, so also need to watch that I don't terminally shred my skin.
2
In reply to guy127917:
STG: (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg. See below
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a six move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 4 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour (on the only day of the week not pouring with rain or snowing)
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Reasonable session, but have been feeling weaker on the bouldering for a few weeks now than I was in March.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Horribly busy, again, nevertheless managed to get a decent aerobic mileage session in - a dozen routes 5b to 6b.
T:
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. 9 rounds on harder (anaerobic?) circuits 6b to 7a+
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Spectacularly weak attempt at a bouldering session with my son, barely able to get off the ground on anything above my warmup level. But then went for a couple of consolation rounds on a 7a circuit project and did my two best links on it so far. Odd.
STG: (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg.
Ahem. My last good session on the moonboard was on the 7th, it's been downhill ever since. I think I should probably do something else for a while & come back to it later. And weight at 83 - better than 84 but not good enough.
I have neglected my shoulder exercises and my right shoulder (impingement, biceps tendon inflammation), which was coming along nicely, is getting decidedly tweaky again. Need to get back on the wagon in May.
STG: (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg. See below
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a six move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 4 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour (on the only day of the week not pouring with rain or snowing)
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Reasonable session, but have been feeling weaker on the bouldering for a few weeks now than I was in March.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Horribly busy, again, nevertheless managed to get a decent aerobic mileage session in - a dozen routes 5b to 6b.
T:
F: Wall, Boulderwelt. 9 rounds on harder (anaerobic?) circuits 6b to 7a+
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Spectacularly weak attempt at a bouldering session with my son, barely able to get off the ground on anything above my warmup level. But then went for a couple of consolation rounds on a 7a circuit project and did my two best links on it so far. Odd.
STG: (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg.
Ahem. My last good session on the moonboard was on the 7th, it's been downhill ever since. I think I should probably do something else for a while & come back to it later. And weight at 83 - better than 84 but not good enough.
I have neglected my shoulder exercises and my right shoulder (impingement, biceps tendon inflammation), which was coming along nicely, is getting decidedly tweaky again. Need to get back on the wagon in May.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
The first week of the training program went badly!
But I went to Vaasa BoulderFest - and the climbing was brilliant! After Font it is the best bouldering area I have ever been to by a long way. Perfect granite, absolutely no polish and loads of really cool routes! https://27crags.com/crags/hautuumaa
I'm hoping I can do my belated long run of the week this evening and it will feel OK. However, I've been invited on a trip to Ahvenanmaa which it meant to be outrageously good bouldering on the weekend of the run so I will be seriously considering that depending on how I feel after running this evening.
Monday: Went back to Haaga and did Mare Chiaro (f7B) which I am still happy about!
Tuesday: Tempo run - completed it but felt awful.
Wed: Rest
Thursday: Drove to Vaasa for the Vaasa Boulderfest
Friday: Bouldered at Sundom
Saturday: Bouldered at Hautuumaa
Sunday: Drove back home
Hi Guy,
The first week of the training program went badly!
But I went to Vaasa BoulderFest - and the climbing was brilliant! After Font it is the best bouldering area I have ever been to by a long way. Perfect granite, absolutely no polish and loads of really cool routes! https://27crags.com/crags/hautuumaa
I'm hoping I can do my belated long run of the week this evening and it will feel OK. However, I've been invited on a trip to Ahvenanmaa which it meant to be outrageously good bouldering on the weekend of the run so I will be seriously considering that depending on how I feel after running this evening.
Monday: Went back to Haaga and did Mare Chiaro (f7B) which I am still happy about!
Tuesday: Tempo run - completed it but felt awful.
Wed: Rest
Thursday: Drove to Vaasa for the Vaasa Boulderfest
Friday: Bouldered at Sundom
Saturday: Bouldered at Hautuumaa
Sunday: Drove back home
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks I just try and turn off and go for it but it probably is holding me back and something to work on.
Not too bad a week for me training wise but I did eat way to many cakes and chocolate on a training course in work so a bit of Yin and Yang on the go
M - Rest
T - AM - 8km run 120 meters accent
PM - 300 meters accent with 13.5kg musclure endurance for legs
W - 25 min Yoga
T - 10km run 300 meters accent
F - 25 min Yoga
S - AM - Some easy climbing in the morning having a catch up with some mates.
PM - 4.5km 325 meter accent walk around Craig Cerrig-Gleisiad
S - 300 meters accent with 13.5kg musclure endurance for legs
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks I just try and turn off and go for it but it probably is holding me back and something to work on.
Not too bad a week for me training wise but I did eat way to many cakes and chocolate on a training course in work so a bit of Yin and Yang on the go
M - Rest
T - AM - 8km run 120 meters accent
PM - 300 meters accent with 13.5kg musclure endurance for legs
W - 25 min Yoga
T - 10km run 300 meters accent
F - 25 min Yoga
S - AM - Some easy climbing in the morning having a catch up with some mates.
PM - 4.5km 325 meter accent walk around Craig Cerrig-Gleisiad
S - 300 meters accent with 13.5kg musclure endurance for legs
Happy Training
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi all, thanks Guy, not sure if I will manage a video.
OK week, should be starting an cap this week but have had an extra bit of strength has i had a few soft weeks with dodgy finger. Finally tied in outside almost six months after stuffing my shoulder badly, primarily by not warming up.
mon-shoulder rehab and strength
Tues- TCA, bouldering on new 5+6B circuit, only half up, some tough ones. Bit of a go on moon board, trying Alan/Bens Wuthering Heights-tough,esp after break form Moonboard.
Wed-Shoulder rehab/strength
Thurs-TCA, more purples, some tough ones. 20 mins ARC, repeated my old ancapstylee woody problem on screw ons, much easier in new shoes.
Fri-Work
Sat-Cheddar, first time in six months, a 6a and 6c, neither of which I had done before. A friend had suggested Playboys as a project but bank holiday crowds meant we stayed on Stepped Walls and got on Cyrogenics. Tough for 7a+ (my personal best anyway) and a weird reintroduction to the rock, crimpy sidepulls, polished nubbins and scary clips. No where near ticking but fun day and great to be outside.
Half hoped for miracles on Saturday, in the end I had an enjoyable day and reminded myself that pushing my limits is never going to be easy.
Rich
Hi all, thanks Guy, not sure if I will manage a video.
OK week, should be starting an cap this week but have had an extra bit of strength has i had a few soft weeks with dodgy finger. Finally tied in outside almost six months after stuffing my shoulder badly, primarily by not warming up.
mon-shoulder rehab and strength
Tues- TCA, bouldering on new 5+6B circuit, only half up, some tough ones. Bit of a go on moon board, trying Alan/Bens Wuthering Heights-tough,esp after break form Moonboard.
Wed-Shoulder rehab/strength
Thurs-TCA, more purples, some tough ones. 20 mins ARC, repeated my old ancapstylee woody problem on screw ons, much easier in new shoes.
Fri-Work
Sat-Cheddar, first time in six months, a 6a and 6c, neither of which I had done before. A friend had suggested Playboys as a project but bank holiday crowds meant we stayed on Stepped Walls and got on Cyrogenics. Tough for 7a+ (my personal best anyway) and a weird reintroduction to the rock, crimpy sidepulls, polished nubbins and scary clips. No where near ticking but fun day and great to be outside.
Half hoped for miracles on Saturday, in the end I had an enjoyable day and reminded myself that pushing my limits is never going to be easy.
Rich
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy. Yes - another quiet week (in climbing terms) but 2 days out on Dartmoor at the weekend.
First day we went back to the woods and I tried Nether Edge (f7A+). Cool highball arete with some good photos on UKC. I got, well, not very high. The first move is basically quiet hard/weird and on some pretty sharp holds. More spotters might help (minding miniAJM seems to be fairly full-time when he isn't asleep, so I'm usually climbing sans spotters) and I wonder if some team psyche would also be helpful. Theres a not very good side pull/undercut which you have to really lean off, get into compression and then a really high foot I think and I just couldn't get that to work.
We dossed up on the moor so we parked up at Saddle Tor and that gave me the chance to have another crack at Dancing Queen (f7B) in the evening. First go I made solid progress straight past my high point from last time with the new beta. A few more goes of refinement and solidifying but not much further progress.
Back on Dancing Queen (f7B) the next morning for a short session. There was a strong guy trying the neighbouring problem - he flashed DQ at the end and confirmed that my high point crimp doesn't have a good bit on it - which is disappointing but at least it means when I get there next I've got to just press on.
Then, via a pub lunch, back to the woods to escape the wind. Went and had a look at Slotted Wall (f7A+), which looks cool but my skin was having none of it. Exploratory wandering through the woods to finish.
I've got no video of me on the problem, but I've got video of other people on the problem to help for anyone who is interested. 2.37 onwards here: youtube.com/watch?v=3u9z5_77NnI&
I start differently from him - I'm using a toe hook out right which when it works feels really stable and I get the next hold basically static with time to adjust it properly. I'm not matching there (I'm going right hand first to the bit he gets with his right hand, which is the best bit).
My high point, using essentially the same sequence to get there (LH gaston everyone uses, but some people keep feet low rather than using the heel), is at 2.46 on his video. Thats the crimp which I know now doesn't have a good bit.
So, on the assumption that anyone I've seen in any video who holds the next hold (2.53, basically) then tops out, and from what I've been told, the move I've yet to do is the last hard move (and probably the hardest move). The unwind looks tough (trade off with the heel - makes the move up easier but the unwind/jump setup harder) but I guess I've just got to get on and work it out. I've got to climb up to it every time (I can reach the second hold from a stacked pad, but not the gaston) which is tiring and wearing on skin but there we go.
Its a cool project, it has a perfect flat landing so its easy to try on my own, its by a convenient car park and theres a classic lowball pump traverse MrsAJM seems keen on round the corner too. Its hard on the skin, which is a downside but also makes it suitable for short session sieging (it doesn't matter if I only get an hour whilst the baby sleeps if thats all I've got in my skin, sort of thing).
I'll persist. I've had 3 short sessions of maybe an hour or so each on it now and I'm still making progress. Hope to go back for whitsun - may be a bit hot, but actually with the wind we haven't spent much time on the moor yet so maybe it will be ok.
Hopefully some training this week and then friends down at the weekend - uncertain what we will be doing but fingers crossed something outdoorsy...
> AJM: Shame about the ride, hope you got out in Dartmoor?
Cheers guy. Yes - another quiet week (in climbing terms) but 2 days out on Dartmoor at the weekend.
First day we went back to the woods and I tried Nether Edge (f7A+). Cool highball arete with some good photos on UKC. I got, well, not very high. The first move is basically quiet hard/weird and on some pretty sharp holds. More spotters might help (minding miniAJM seems to be fairly full-time when he isn't asleep, so I'm usually climbing sans spotters) and I wonder if some team psyche would also be helpful. Theres a not very good side pull/undercut which you have to really lean off, get into compression and then a really high foot I think and I just couldn't get that to work.
We dossed up on the moor so we parked up at Saddle Tor and that gave me the chance to have another crack at Dancing Queen (f7B) in the evening. First go I made solid progress straight past my high point from last time with the new beta. A few more goes of refinement and solidifying but not much further progress.
Back on Dancing Queen (f7B) the next morning for a short session. There was a strong guy trying the neighbouring problem - he flashed DQ at the end and confirmed that my high point crimp doesn't have a good bit on it - which is disappointing but at least it means when I get there next I've got to just press on.
Then, via a pub lunch, back to the woods to escape the wind. Went and had a look at Slotted Wall (f7A+), which looks cool but my skin was having none of it. Exploratory wandering through the woods to finish.
I've got no video of me on the problem, but I've got video of other people on the problem to help for anyone who is interested. 2.37 onwards here: youtube.com/watch?v=3u9z5_77NnI&
I start differently from him - I'm using a toe hook out right which when it works feels really stable and I get the next hold basically static with time to adjust it properly. I'm not matching there (I'm going right hand first to the bit he gets with his right hand, which is the best bit).
My high point, using essentially the same sequence to get there (LH gaston everyone uses, but some people keep feet low rather than using the heel), is at 2.46 on his video. Thats the crimp which I know now doesn't have a good bit.
So, on the assumption that anyone I've seen in any video who holds the next hold (2.53, basically) then tops out, and from what I've been told, the move I've yet to do is the last hard move (and probably the hardest move). The unwind looks tough (trade off with the heel - makes the move up easier but the unwind/jump setup harder) but I guess I've just got to get on and work it out. I've got to climb up to it every time (I can reach the second hold from a stacked pad, but not the gaston) which is tiring and wearing on skin but there we go.
Its a cool project, it has a perfect flat landing so its easy to try on my own, its by a convenient car park and theres a classic lowball pump traverse MrsAJM seems keen on round the corner too. Its hard on the skin, which is a downside but also makes it suitable for short session sieging (it doesn't matter if I only get an hour whilst the baby sleeps if thats all I've got in my skin, sort of thing).
I'll persist. I've had 3 short sessions of maybe an hour or so each on it now and I'm still making progress. Hope to go back for whitsun - may be a bit hot, but actually with the wind we haven't spent much time on the moor yet so maybe it will be ok.
Hopefully some training this week and then friends down at the weekend - uncertain what we will be doing but fingers crossed something outdoorsy...
2
In reply to guy127917:
This week was good for training, bad for climbing.
Had a big exam, so I was limited to doing some climbing sessions and at home some bodyweight training for strength. Did 17 diamond push-ups with my chest touching the floor, which is probably a PR because I haven't done much push-ups before.
For the bouldering sessions I focused on overhangs because that's where I'm weakest. So I set a goal to do all the font 5/5+ on the overhangs in the gym (except the cave... because the cave is horrible. It's probably next though). Got a good few of them.
I also went outside bouldering and sent a silly low f4+ (video if anyone wants to have a laugh https://www.instagram.com/p/BTR9h9ZDDEE/ ). Didn't have a pad or a spotter, so did the lowest one.
Friday: Put on a 15 kg backpack after the exam, and headed out to do a hike called the "Summit7". It's 30 km long and about 1000 meters of elevation gain. Walked a bit further so it was closer to 35+ km, and didn't get to the final summit due to too much snow and too little time.
Sunday: Went to Korsvika to do my first outdoor rope climbing in Trondheim. It went miserably. Didn't even get 2 bolts off the ground on an n4+ (F4c) route that's only about 8 meters high. Complete panic, freezing up, scared to fall, scared to move. Tried it 3 times then gave up.
Then my partner wanted to try an n5+ (F5c) slab, which was silly hard and none of us could do it. Then I walked to the top and rapped down to clean the route (while of course being scared out of my mind as usual). But it was my first rappel without supervision, and I didn't die, so that's something.
I wonder when this fear of heights thing will ever be gone. This weekend's failure is probably because I haven't climbed regularly with a rope since I moved in February due to the only climber I know here only bouldering when he's indoors. Overall pretty depressed about that aspect of climbing.
This week was good for training, bad for climbing.
Had a big exam, so I was limited to doing some climbing sessions and at home some bodyweight training for strength. Did 17 diamond push-ups with my chest touching the floor, which is probably a PR because I haven't done much push-ups before.
For the bouldering sessions I focused on overhangs because that's where I'm weakest. So I set a goal to do all the font 5/5+ on the overhangs in the gym (except the cave... because the cave is horrible. It's probably next though). Got a good few of them.
I also went outside bouldering and sent a silly low f4+ (video if anyone wants to have a laugh https://www.instagram.com/p/BTR9h9ZDDEE/ ). Didn't have a pad or a spotter, so did the lowest one.
Friday: Put on a 15 kg backpack after the exam, and headed out to do a hike called the "Summit7". It's 30 km long and about 1000 meters of elevation gain. Walked a bit further so it was closer to 35+ km, and didn't get to the final summit due to too much snow and too little time.
Sunday: Went to Korsvika to do my first outdoor rope climbing in Trondheim. It went miserably. Didn't even get 2 bolts off the ground on an n4+ (F4c) route that's only about 8 meters high. Complete panic, freezing up, scared to fall, scared to move. Tried it 3 times then gave up.
Then my partner wanted to try an n5+ (F5c) slab, which was silly hard and none of us could do it. Then I walked to the top and rapped down to clean the route (while of course being scared out of my mind as usual). But it was my first rappel without supervision, and I didn't die, so that's something.
I wonder when this fear of heights thing will ever be gone. This weekend's failure is probably because I haven't climbed regularly with a rope since I moved in February due to the only climber I know here only bouldering when he's indoors. Overall pretty depressed about that aspect of climbing.
1
In reply to hms:
Thoughts on venues?
Skin preservation is helped by a static and controlled climbing style so should be right up your street. Would be interested in your views if you get on Wave, DQ, or any of the woods stuff I've been looking at...
> Next weekend I'm bouldering on Dartmoor with Husband, so also need to watch that I don't terminally shred my skin.
Thoughts on venues?
Skin preservation is helped by a static and controlled climbing style so should be right up your street. Would be interested in your views if you get on Wave, DQ, or any of the woods stuff I've been looking at...
In reply to AJM:
vague plan was Honeybag Tor one day, Bovey Woods the other, but depends very much on weather, esp if it's windy. There needs to be lots below 6a for Husband, plus I favour anywhere that is likely to be less busy. What would you recommend in the woods? Traverses are good due to lack of height - definitely avoiding highballs!
vague plan was Honeybag Tor one day, Bovey Woods the other, but depends very much on weather, esp if it's windy. There needs to be lots below 6a for Husband, plus I favour anywhere that is likely to be less busy. What would you recommend in the woods? Traverses are good due to lack of height - definitely avoiding highballs!
In reply to hms:
Honeybag/Bonehill/Bell look like a good trio. Hound Tor has loads of good stuff on it too. For traverses, if you have time to stop in, The Hidden Traverse (f6B) is good and only 5 minutes walk from the car.
Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor looks good if you get the weather.
In terms of the woods, the Beckham Part I (f5) and part 2 traverses were fun. Ali enjoyed the 6as down by Nether Edge. The boulder with Breadcrumb Trail (f6B) on it also has some easier stuff on it and was quite good (I didn't try BT as miniAJM was fussing). I've not been to to climb but that also looks like a good place.
Honeybag/Bonehill/Bell look like a good trio. Hound Tor has loads of good stuff on it too. For traverses, if you have time to stop in, The Hidden Traverse (f6B) is good and only 5 minutes walk from the car.
Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor looks good if you get the weather.
In terms of the woods, the Beckham Part I (f5) and part 2 traverses were fun. Ali enjoyed the 6as down by Nether Edge. The boulder with Breadcrumb Trail (f6B) on it also has some easier stuff on it and was quite good (I didn't try BT as miniAJM was fussing). I've not been to to climb but that also looks like a good place.
In reply to guy127917:
Been a lot of family away things amongst work, which has been very nice but has made consistent training a tad difficult at times...
17th April
Mon- 6 mile cycle. 3 x 8 pull up on door frame; 3 x 5 front levers; 3 x 20 slow press ups.
Tues- 3 mile run with kids. local leisure centre gym- Bench Press 80kg/90kg/90kg, Dumbell press 3 x 30kg, wheel roll-outs 3x10, Chest Press machine.
Wed- 4 mile run in am. local leisure centre gym- 8 wide pull ups, Frenchies- 1x3/1x2.2/ 1x2, weighted pull-ups: 4 x 10kg/ 4 x 15kg/ 5 x 15kg, narrow underhand pull-ups- 8/7/7, wrist roller (6kg)-3x8.
Thurs- tennis competition.
Fri- travelled to London. Went to White Spider in evening for a quick hour- 6 blue problems/ 2 green problems/ 2 red problems.Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 8, 8 to 1)
Sat- travelled back to Sheffield
Sun- worked and rested. 50 press ups before bed.
24th May
Mon- Went to the Works for a quick 70 mins endurance (?) session- did 32 Boulder problems, incl 28 Pinkle and 4 yellow. Finished off with Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 10, 10 to 1).
Tues- nowt.
Wed- interval session at lunchtime- 10 x 100m sprints, with 10 press-ups and 60 second recovery jog. Ow.
Thurs- 2 mile gentle run at lunchtime.
Friday- busy and 10 mile cycle commute curtailed 1 mile from my door by a snapped chain- cue a jog home and change of transport!
Saturday- at a family gathering in Windsor, so mainly travelling down there.
Sunday- managed to escape to the gym: 3x8 normal pull ups, 3x8 close grip pull ups, 3x4 weighed pull ups (20kg), 4x25 second deadhangs. More travelling back to Sheffield!
STG-
* Improve finger strength- BeastMaker App.
* Climb weekly on grit.
* More leading HVS- targets of Eliminator, The Scoop, Congo Corner, Rugosity Crack, Pedlar's Arête- all at Stanage.
MTG
* Lead E1 (Long Tall Sally, The Crease, Strapiombante, Broken Arrow, etc)
* Get strong enough to lead Flying Buttress Direct (E1?...)- failed horribly last year as too weak/ too little climbing/ sun was in my eyes, etc.
* Mont Blanc (July Chamonix trip)
Been a lot of family away things amongst work, which has been very nice but has made consistent training a tad difficult at times...
17th April
Mon- 6 mile cycle. 3 x 8 pull up on door frame; 3 x 5 front levers; 3 x 20 slow press ups.
Tues- 3 mile run with kids. local leisure centre gym- Bench Press 80kg/90kg/90kg, Dumbell press 3 x 30kg, wheel roll-outs 3x10, Chest Press machine.
Wed- 4 mile run in am. local leisure centre gym- 8 wide pull ups, Frenchies- 1x3/1x2.2/ 1x2, weighted pull-ups: 4 x 10kg/ 4 x 15kg/ 5 x 15kg, narrow underhand pull-ups- 8/7/7, wrist roller (6kg)-3x8.
Thurs- tennis competition.
Fri- travelled to London. Went to White Spider in evening for a quick hour- 6 blue problems/ 2 green problems/ 2 red problems.Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 8, 8 to 1)
Sat- travelled back to Sheffield
Sun- worked and rested. 50 press ups before bed.
24th May
Mon- Went to the Works for a quick 70 mins endurance (?) session- did 32 Boulder problems, incl 28 Pinkle and 4 yellow. Finished off with Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 10, 10 to 1).
Tues- nowt.
Wed- interval session at lunchtime- 10 x 100m sprints, with 10 press-ups and 60 second recovery jog. Ow.
Thurs- 2 mile gentle run at lunchtime.
Friday- busy and 10 mile cycle commute curtailed 1 mile from my door by a snapped chain- cue a jog home and change of transport!
Saturday- at a family gathering in Windsor, so mainly travelling down there.
Sunday- managed to escape to the gym: 3x8 normal pull ups, 3x8 close grip pull ups, 3x4 weighed pull ups (20kg), 4x25 second deadhangs. More travelling back to Sheffield!
STG-
* Improve finger strength- BeastMaker App.
* Climb weekly on grit.
* More leading HVS- targets of Eliminator, The Scoop, Congo Corner, Rugosity Crack, Pedlar's Arête- all at Stanage.
MTG
* Lead E1 (Long Tall Sally, The Crease, Strapiombante, Broken Arrow, etc)
* Get strong enough to lead Flying Buttress Direct (E1?...)- failed horribly last year as too weak/ too little climbing/ sun was in my eyes, etc.
* Mont Blanc (July Chamonix trip)
1
In reply to guy127917:
Re-cycled video from me; vimeo.com/197400682 - currently doing super easy dead-hangs with -10 to -20 kg as finger rehab as part of the protocol suggested by Esther Smith here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/ & youtube.com/watch?v=RWZQMnlHEbg&
"Mild familiar discomfort" is a very strange concept to quantify...
Week 18
M - 320 core movements (crunchies & leg raises) & 4x 30s high dish, 30s low dish, 1min plank, 1min side plank, 30s handstand.
T - No DOMS – core is starting to adapt! Easy/rehab deadhangs. 4x 10s bodyweight BM2K-AA. 4x10s Middle-2 BW-20kg. 3x 8+6 narrow+wide superset pull-ups. 3x20 wide push-ups. Stretching.
W - Nowt but stretching & moving furniture
T - One metric $hit ton of deadlifting; 24kgx20, 44kgx20, 64kgx20, 3sets 78kgx12. Probably quite pathetic by normal measures, but considering 1RM at BW (78kg) was a target last autumn, doing sets of 12 with relative ease at that weight feels like considerable progress.
3 rotations of: 8+6 narrow+wide superset pull-ups, 15x24kg OHP, 20x20kg weighted sit-ups, 12xI’s, 12+6 low-row+reverse I’s superset, 50 crunchies.
F - Ar$e DOMS - haha! Nowt
S - Ditto. Was supposed to go out for a bike ride, but somehow got distracted and before I knew it, all I'd managed before dinner was a couple of hours of gardening.
S - Lovely walk up Tryfan with a stop off en route to climb a 2 pitch Diff on Tryfan Bach – bit of a baptism by fire for the lady after 3.5mths of sedentary revision – needless to say she handled it with aplomb
Re-cycled video from me; vimeo.com/197400682 - currently doing super easy dead-hangs with -10 to -20 kg as finger rehab as part of the protocol suggested by Esther Smith here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/ & youtube.com/watch?v=RWZQMnlHEbg&
"Mild familiar discomfort" is a very strange concept to quantify...
Week 18
M - 320 core movements (crunchies & leg raises) & 4x 30s high dish, 30s low dish, 1min plank, 1min side plank, 30s handstand.
T - No DOMS – core is starting to adapt! Easy/rehab deadhangs. 4x 10s bodyweight BM2K-AA. 4x10s Middle-2 BW-20kg. 3x 8+6 narrow+wide superset pull-ups. 3x20 wide push-ups. Stretching.
W - Nowt but stretching & moving furniture
T - One metric $hit ton of deadlifting; 24kgx20, 44kgx20, 64kgx20, 3sets 78kgx12. Probably quite pathetic by normal measures, but considering 1RM at BW (78kg) was a target last autumn, doing sets of 12 with relative ease at that weight feels like considerable progress.
3 rotations of: 8+6 narrow+wide superset pull-ups, 15x24kg OHP, 20x20kg weighted sit-ups, 12xI’s, 12+6 low-row+reverse I’s superset, 50 crunchies.
F - Ar$e DOMS - haha! Nowt
S - Ditto. Was supposed to go out for a bike ride, but somehow got distracted and before I knew it, all I'd managed before dinner was a couple of hours of gardening.
S - Lovely walk up Tryfan with a stop off en route to climb a 2 pitch Diff on Tryfan Bach – bit of a baptism by fire for the lady after 3.5mths of sedentary revision – needless to say she handled it with aplomb
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy. I also have no idea why it happens but it seems to be a common theme! My work is desk based most of the time and I think sitting down all day just makes me feel lethargic.
Onto last week:
Slightly down on hours/sessions this week due to a couple of nights out drinking (whoops). Some good parts however.
Mon:
Yoga (20 mins)
Power Endurance Circuits (30 moves) x 4, and TRX shoulder session straight out of Gimme Kraft (Reverse fly, Wings, Single Arm Row, all 12 reps x4)
Tue:
Yoga (20 mins)
Run 10.9km, 157m ascent. No real goal, just distance.
Wed:
Yoga (30 mins)
Bike 40.7km, 421m ascent, inspired by watching the Tour of Romandie whilst making figures for a paper
Thurs:
Nowt - busy busy busy then one to many beers. Whoops.
Fri:
Bit hungover, but missed Thursday's session so did that. 5A and 2 x 6A session on the beastmaker (from the app)
Sat:
Climbing plans this weekend went to pot, so went to Parkrun instead. Went full blast and managed 18:32 - close to my goal but not quite! PB though so can't complain.
More cycling, this time inspired by the TdY. 33.9km, 455m ascent.
Lots of friends in town due to a local Rugby 7s tournament. Many, many beers.
Sun:
Death personified. Day in bed.
New month, so the goals all shift around now.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech - happy to let this one roll over as I haven't had time to get to it
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Run 70+km in Switzerland next week over two days
Top 20 at Cadair Race - decided to up the ante here and push myself
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Thanks guy. I also have no idea why it happens but it seems to be a common theme! My work is desk based most of the time and I think sitting down all day just makes me feel lethargic.
Onto last week:
Slightly down on hours/sessions this week due to a couple of nights out drinking (whoops). Some good parts however.
Mon:
Yoga (20 mins)
Power Endurance Circuits (30 moves) x 4, and TRX shoulder session straight out of Gimme Kraft (Reverse fly, Wings, Single Arm Row, all 12 reps x4)
Tue:
Yoga (20 mins)
Run 10.9km, 157m ascent. No real goal, just distance.
Wed:
Yoga (30 mins)
Bike 40.7km, 421m ascent, inspired by watching the Tour of Romandie whilst making figures for a paper
Thurs:
Nowt - busy busy busy then one to many beers. Whoops.
Fri:
Bit hungover, but missed Thursday's session so did that. 5A and 2 x 6A session on the beastmaker (from the app)
Sat:
Climbing plans this weekend went to pot, so went to Parkrun instead. Went full blast and managed 18:32 - close to my goal but not quite! PB though so can't complain.
More cycling, this time inspired by the TdY. 33.9km, 455m ascent.
Lots of friends in town due to a local Rugby 7s tournament. Many, many beers.
Sun:
Death personified. Day in bed.
New month, so the goals all shift around now.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech - happy to let this one roll over as I haven't had time to get to it
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Run 70+km in Switzerland next week over two days
Top 20 at Cadair Race - decided to up the ante here and push myself
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
2
1
1
In reply to AJM and hms:
Thanks! Have booked Ben into the Bantham Swoosh in June so will probably need some bouldering en route as I suspect he'll be too tired for trad...though I had found a rickety awful seastack which looked like second rate fun...Bantham Hand (VS 4b)
Thanks! Have booked Ben into the Bantham Swoosh in June so will probably need some bouldering en route as I suspect he'll be too tired for trad...though I had found a rickety awful seastack which looked like second rate fun...Bantham Hand (VS 4b)
In reply to guy127917:
Feeling a tad jaded today after having friends round for dinner yesterday and enjoying far too much wine! Only a quick recap of last week;
Monday, rest
Tuesday, 15km cycle, got caught in the sleet and hail wearing my summer kit. Not good.
Wednesday, 1km swim and 26km ride.
Thursday, 1km swim
Friday, 1km swim and 26km ride
Saturday, brief 4km run over the fields to collect the car from the next door village, wife had been to the pub and got the bus home.
Sunday, 15.4km trail run. Longest run so far, clocked in at 1hr 32 mins so kept the pace just under the 30 min 5k i was hoping for
Feeling a tad jaded today after having friends round for dinner yesterday and enjoying far too much wine! Only a quick recap of last week;
Monday, rest
Tuesday, 15km cycle, got caught in the sleet and hail wearing my summer kit. Not good.
Wednesday, 1km swim and 26km ride.
Thursday, 1km swim
Friday, 1km swim and 26km ride
Saturday, brief 4km run over the fields to collect the car from the next door village, wife had been to the pub and got the bus home.
Sunday, 15.4km trail run. Longest run so far, clocked in at 1hr 32 mins so kept the pace just under the 30 min 5k i was hoping for
1
In reply to guy127917:
Not so great :/
Didn't have a good week. I managed to eat something at the weekend that badly disagreed with me. I spent Tue-Thu shiteing through the eye of a needle, which wasn't the best race prep (though I did lose 4.5kg in 48hrs). In the end though that wasn't the only problem I had. I had a bit of a stumble coming down Pen-y-gent and pulled something in my thigh, consequently I was pretty slow on the descent. I picked up a few places by Ribble head and quite a few more by the top of Whernside, but I was slow descending again and started to get cramp in both thighs. By the time I got to Hill Inn, I was about 8-9 minutes too late.
m - 3k run around London plus a visit to the Mongolian Embassy to collect my visa.
t - 5.75k last run before the shits kicked in
w - 5k run home from work with the shits
t - 3k run close to home so I could run home for a shit
f - 5k run to work
s - 26.6k Three Peaks Fell Race- timed out at the Hill Inn
s - 3k 'run'
On the plus side, I still ran every day and the streak is currently on 41
In other news and in a fit of enthusiasm, I entered the London Marathon ballot, though perhaps I should be thinking of doing the Three Peaks Race again?
STG - keep the running streak going.
- keep some of the weight off that I inadvertently lost.
MTG - get fit for Mongolia.
> hokkyo: How did the 3 peaks go?
Not so great :/
Didn't have a good week. I managed to eat something at the weekend that badly disagreed with me. I spent Tue-Thu shiteing through the eye of a needle, which wasn't the best race prep (though I did lose 4.5kg in 48hrs). In the end though that wasn't the only problem I had. I had a bit of a stumble coming down Pen-y-gent and pulled something in my thigh, consequently I was pretty slow on the descent. I picked up a few places by Ribble head and quite a few more by the top of Whernside, but I was slow descending again and started to get cramp in both thighs. By the time I got to Hill Inn, I was about 8-9 minutes too late.
m - 3k run around London plus a visit to the Mongolian Embassy to collect my visa.
t - 5.75k last run before the shits kicked in
w - 5k run home from work with the shits
t - 3k run close to home so I could run home for a shit
f - 5k run to work
s - 26.6k Three Peaks Fell Race- timed out at the Hill Inn
s - 3k 'run'
On the plus side, I still ran every day and the streak is currently on 41
In other news and in a fit of enthusiasm, I entered the London Marathon ballot, though perhaps I should be thinking of doing the Three Peaks Race again?
STG - keep the running streak going.
- keep some of the weight off that I inadvertently lost.
MTG - get fit for Mongolia.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I'll try to take the gopro out this weekend - not sure anyone could cope with the excitement of Oxford Brookes midweek failure footage! Decent week of training and a good weekend at Froggatt. Sadly I had to work on Monday
M: CapPow on 6b+
T: core
W: Continuity on 6a
T: rest
F: Bench press/conditioning
S-S: Froggatt. 22 stars HS-E2, crack and slab mileage and some classics - first time I've ever been that there hasn't been a queue for/midges waiting to eat me on the belay ledge of Valkyrie (HVS 5a) so finally got on that and loved it. Feel that my jamming is pretty good at the moment. Have to admit to being a bit disappointed by some of the slabs, but I guess having worked a few 6A/6B grit boulder slabs with purely smearing feet and having an okay head meant I wasn't getting the full exposure thrill on 5a/5b moves on pleasant dinks/ripples. Maybe I should have done them before now but had psyched myself out reading logbook entries on UKC! Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) looks awesome and will definitely return for that and The Big Crack (E2 5b) on a less busy day.
Goals (finally!):
STG: (end of May)
• Keep knocking out crack/slab mileage in Peak
• Classic routes in Squamish/ ski touring depending on weather
MTG: (end of 2017)
• Do more routes than any other year (Best was 2014: 112 trad, 72 sport) – so far 2017: 30 trad, 16 sport.
• Sport: 7a mileage including unfinished business (WFD, Buf). RP a 7b.
• Trad: E mileage. Lead E3/4.
• Lose some weight. Maybe 3kg would be a start?
• Fundas 3, PTforClimbing2 courses, CWLA, DC assessments. Renew First Aid.
• Ticklist: Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) and some other stuff. The Scottish sea stacks will have to wait until next year as I haven't enough annual leave left!
Thanks Guy. I'll try to take the gopro out this weekend - not sure anyone could cope with the excitement of Oxford Brookes midweek failure footage! Decent week of training and a good weekend at Froggatt. Sadly I had to work on Monday
M: CapPow on 6b+
T: core
W: Continuity on 6a
T: rest
F: Bench press/conditioning
S-S: Froggatt. 22 stars HS-E2, crack and slab mileage and some classics - first time I've ever been that there hasn't been a queue for/midges waiting to eat me on the belay ledge of Valkyrie (HVS 5a) so finally got on that and loved it. Feel that my jamming is pretty good at the moment. Have to admit to being a bit disappointed by some of the slabs, but I guess having worked a few 6A/6B grit boulder slabs with purely smearing feet and having an okay head meant I wasn't getting the full exposure thrill on 5a/5b moves on pleasant dinks/ripples. Maybe I should have done them before now but had psyched myself out reading logbook entries on UKC! Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) looks awesome and will definitely return for that and The Big Crack (E2 5b) on a less busy day.
Goals (finally!):
STG: (end of May)
• Keep knocking out crack/slab mileage in Peak
• Classic routes in Squamish/ ski touring depending on weather
MTG: (end of 2017)
• Do more routes than any other year (Best was 2014: 112 trad, 72 sport) – so far 2017: 30 trad, 16 sport.
• Sport: 7a mileage including unfinished business (WFD, Buf). RP a 7b.
• Trad: E mileage. Lead E3/4.
• Lose some weight. Maybe 3kg would be a start?
• Fundas 3, PTforClimbing2 courses, CWLA, DC assessments. Renew First Aid.
• Ticklist: Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) and some other stuff. The Scottish sea stacks will have to wait until next year as I haven't enough annual leave left!
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, I didn't just struggle on the techy slab, I plain couldn't do it!
It certainly does highlight big gaps in my ability, (mostly footwork related) which I don't wish to ignore, my confidence when weighting marginal footholds is very poor for example, and this is something I'd like to improve.
It does though also highlight the fact that I generally don't do slab routes, nor do I have a huge amount of interest in them. I know i'll never be a great all round climber, but that's fine, I only want to be a great steep limestone climber! I won't ignore those aspects of my technique that are lacking, but equally, i'll not be hunting out more slab routes any time soon!
The week got off to a good start but a horrible chesty lurgy put me out of action over the weekend, it seems to have passed now though, so no real harm done.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; Progressive Ancap. triple reps of do-able problems x6, each time I repeat this session I am to shorten rest time and add moves on to the problems, I imagine it's going to get mighty hard...
W: Nothing
T: Core
Indoor Boulder; hard problems, 6 minutes on each with dynamic 1-4-7 after each 6 minute set
F: Nothing
S: Portland; Went to have a look at Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) at Wallsend, I remembered to get last minute beta from AJM before I left but it wasn't of much use as I was totally off the boil, some kind of chesty lurgy cough appeared from nowhere and I had zero motivation to even vaguely try. I went bolt to bolt and it is a good line though, I'm keen for a rematch, and luckily Mrs Dandan really wants to work the 7a+ right next to it that I did a few weeks back.
S: Lurgy.
As of yesterday my chest feels a lot better so hoping to get a full week of sessions done this coming week. I need to update my goals, I will either do an extra post this week or get them sorted for next week.
> Dandan: Big congrats on the ticks, finding a new project and staying uninjured. Interesting to me you struggled on a 7a tech slab, actually a good reminder that crushing finger strength doesn’t solve everything
Cheers Guy, I didn't just struggle on the techy slab, I plain couldn't do it!
It certainly does highlight big gaps in my ability, (mostly footwork related) which I don't wish to ignore, my confidence when weighting marginal footholds is very poor for example, and this is something I'd like to improve.
It does though also highlight the fact that I generally don't do slab routes, nor do I have a huge amount of interest in them. I know i'll never be a great all round climber, but that's fine, I only want to be a great steep limestone climber! I won't ignore those aspects of my technique that are lacking, but equally, i'll not be hunting out more slab routes any time soon!
The week got off to a good start but a horrible chesty lurgy put me out of action over the weekend, it seems to have passed now though, so no real harm done.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; Progressive Ancap. triple reps of do-able problems x6, each time I repeat this session I am to shorten rest time and add moves on to the problems, I imagine it's going to get mighty hard...
W: Nothing
T: Core
Indoor Boulder; hard problems, 6 minutes on each with dynamic 1-4-7 after each 6 minute set
F: Nothing
S: Portland; Went to have a look at Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) at Wallsend, I remembered to get last minute beta from AJM before I left but it wasn't of much use as I was totally off the boil, some kind of chesty lurgy cough appeared from nowhere and I had zero motivation to even vaguely try. I went bolt to bolt and it is a good line though, I'm keen for a rematch, and luckily Mrs Dandan really wants to work the 7a+ right next to it that I did a few weeks back.
S: Lurgy.
As of yesterday my chest feels a lot better so hoping to get a full week of sessions done this coming week. I need to update my goals, I will either do an extra post this week or get them sorted for next week.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I listened to the podcast last night as I've gone and tweaked something a bit in left ring finger around the PIP. What did you think about the logic of starting with two finger pockets? I'd have expected this to depend on whether it was a tendon or pulley issue, but she seemed to just lump them together over-simplistically...
> Re-cycled video from me; vimeo.com/197400682 - currently doing super easy dead-hangs with -10 to -20 kg as finger rehab as part of the protocol suggested by Esther Smith here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/ & youtube.com/watch?v=RWZQMnlHEbg& "Mild familiar discomfort" is a very strange concept to quantify...
I listened to the podcast last night as I've gone and tweaked something a bit in left ring finger around the PIP. What did you think about the logic of starting with two finger pockets? I'd have expected this to depend on whether it was a tendon or pulley issue, but she seemed to just lump them together over-simplistically...
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Yes I got the biking in thanks. Only 2 days last week and it'll be the same this week due to the BH.
A busy week. I think I had a climb at AWCC before work. Yes I did, I remember now. Decent warm up and then tried all the V7's to see if any would be goers. It's part of my actually trying hard plan. If I don't get to climb much when I do I should pull hard. So I gave each of them 4 goes and got close on some. Think they've been reset now though. Felt worked after though so all good.
Had a day at Stoney Bank on Sunday. Very pleasant. Perfect for mileage, which is just what I need. So I warmed up on 3 routes up to 6b+ and then got stuck into a 7a. Doh! Should have got it first go, made the same mistake second go and got it third go and it felt easy. Think it was a bit soft anyway.
I climbed yesterday as well (and actually had a mileage day) but that's for next week.
Exam season now so for the next couple of weeks I won't be getting much done at all. Happy enough that i'm comfy at E1 and seem to be cranking OK at 7a and really looking forward to capitalising over the Summer. I'm still trying not to get involved in grade chasing type improvement but it seems to be a part of my personality and the thought keeps creeping in. If I get inspired by a route i'll put some effort in, but not just for a grade. I'll keep repeating that to myself until I believe it.
Cheers Guy. Yes I got the biking in thanks. Only 2 days last week and it'll be the same this week due to the BH.
A busy week. I think I had a climb at AWCC before work. Yes I did, I remember now. Decent warm up and then tried all the V7's to see if any would be goers. It's part of my actually trying hard plan. If I don't get to climb much when I do I should pull hard. So I gave each of them 4 goes and got close on some. Think they've been reset now though. Felt worked after though so all good.
Had a day at Stoney Bank on Sunday. Very pleasant. Perfect for mileage, which is just what I need. So I warmed up on 3 routes up to 6b+ and then got stuck into a 7a. Doh! Should have got it first go, made the same mistake second go and got it third go and it felt easy. Think it was a bit soft anyway.
I climbed yesterday as well (and actually had a mileage day) but that's for next week.
Exam season now so for the next couple of weeks I won't be getting much done at all. Happy enough that i'm comfy at E1 and seem to be cranking OK at 7a and really looking forward to capitalising over the Summer. I'm still trying not to get involved in grade chasing type improvement but it seems to be a part of my personality and the thought keeps creeping in. If I get inspired by a route i'll put some effort in, but not just for a grade. I'll keep repeating that to myself until I believe it.
In reply to guy127917:
OK.
youtube.com/watch?v=EEUEPAzkw-0&
My longest link yet on a new 7a circuit at my local wall. My previous best was the beginning of the downclimbing section, so getting through that was a step forward and the rest is straightforward power endurance. Which I simply didn't have at this point.
And no bloody wonder. Bent. Arms. All The Bloody Time. How is any blood supposed to get in or out if I never straighten my elbows past 90 degrees? Fluffed the foot sequence at the start of the right to left traverse section too which undoubtedly also cost some energy, but that can happen and you have to be able to handle it.
> your ‘homework’ is to take/share a video of yourself failing at something.
OK.
youtube.com/watch?v=EEUEPAzkw-0&
My longest link yet on a new 7a circuit at my local wall. My previous best was the beginning of the downclimbing section, so getting through that was a step forward and the rest is straightforward power endurance. Which I simply didn't have at this point.
And no bloody wonder. Bent. Arms. All The Bloody Time. How is any blood supposed to get in or out if I never straighten my elbows past 90 degrees? Fluffed the foot sequence at the start of the right to left traverse section too which undoubtedly also cost some energy, but that can happen and you have to be able to handle it.
In reply to guy127917:
This week was a bit of a quiet one - I've been having a bit of golfer's elbow the last couple of weeks so I started doing some exercises to counter it, and in the process massively pissed off the tendon in my wrist instead. Felt really nasty so spent the week calming it down, feels 90% better now.
M: Rest day. Wrists hurt a lot
T: Weights (for the first time in ages) - squats, bench press. Had put weights to the side to try out a weights circuit class, but after a couple of months I think I've decided that my own structured weights program is much better for consistency and results.
W: Cycle commute, 20km. DOMS so bad I struggle to walk...
Th: Cycle 15km. Wrists starting to settle down
F: Cycle 18km
Sa: Trad climbing in Bohuslan - led two n5+s. Was pretty unhappy about the gear on one of them, deck-out potential seemed high. The other one was great though.
Su: Felt kind of low on bravery, possibly due to sketchy lead the day before. Settled for seconding n6-s (which feel right on my limit) and led a n5-.
Not sure if I'll get a chance to do a video - nor indeed know what I'd film! If I get the chance I'll add it here. Even though I'm not rising to the challenge (yet) I do very much appreciate the homework, I'll try to get involved in coming weeks
This week was a bit of a quiet one - I've been having a bit of golfer's elbow the last couple of weeks so I started doing some exercises to counter it, and in the process massively pissed off the tendon in my wrist instead. Felt really nasty so spent the week calming it down, feels 90% better now.
M: Rest day. Wrists hurt a lot
T: Weights (for the first time in ages) - squats, bench press. Had put weights to the side to try out a weights circuit class, but after a couple of months I think I've decided that my own structured weights program is much better for consistency and results.
W: Cycle commute, 20km. DOMS so bad I struggle to walk...
Th: Cycle 15km. Wrists starting to settle down
F: Cycle 18km
Sa: Trad climbing in Bohuslan - led two n5+s. Was pretty unhappy about the gear on one of them, deck-out potential seemed high. The other one was great though.
Su: Felt kind of low on bravery, possibly due to sketchy lead the day before. Settled for seconding n6-s (which feel right on my limit) and led a n5-.
Not sure if I'll get a chance to do a video - nor indeed know what I'd film! If I get the chance I'll add it here. Even though I'm not rising to the challenge (yet) I do very much appreciate the homework, I'll try to get involved in coming weeks
In reply to TheFasting:
I certainly used to be much worse with heights than I am now, but it still comes and goes. If I've not been out in a long time it definitely gets worse, if I'm feeling unmotivated it gets worse. I would highly recommend reading The Rock Warrior's Way and think about comfort zones - if you're completely comfortable then that's fine but you're not learning anything; if you're slightly uncomfortable but it's manageable then this is the sweet spot, you can work with your fears and try to expand your comfort zone a tiny step at a time. If you're outside even your discomfort zone by a mile then it's just panic, you learn nothing and can reverse your progress (I do this to my self now and then - I made myself a bracelet to remind myself not to do this ). Good on you for trying so hard, but if you're outright panicking then maybe back off a bit and work your way up to it slowly.
I certainly used to be much worse with heights than I am now, but it still comes and goes. If I've not been out in a long time it definitely gets worse, if I'm feeling unmotivated it gets worse. I would highly recommend reading The Rock Warrior's Way and think about comfort zones - if you're completely comfortable then that's fine but you're not learning anything; if you're slightly uncomfortable but it's manageable then this is the sweet spot, you can work with your fears and try to expand your comfort zone a tiny step at a time. If you're outside even your discomfort zone by a mile then it's just panic, you learn nothing and can reverse your progress (I do this to my self now and then - I made myself a bracelet to remind myself not to do this ). Good on you for trying so hard, but if you're outright panicking then maybe back off a bit and work your way up to it slowly.
Post edited at 07:01
2
In reply to Si dH:
I assumed the logic of using 2-finger pocket was to ensure that you're open handing at all times, as she goes on to talk about 4-finger drag & half-crimp after easing into the 2-finger pocket hold.
However, I'm doing 4-finger first as I was already pitifully weak on middle-2 due to on-going ring-finger issues.
I assumed the logic of using 2-finger pocket was to ensure that you're open handing at all times, as she goes on to talk about 4-finger drag & half-crimp after easing into the 2-finger pocket hold.
However, I'm doing 4-finger first as I was already pitifully weak on middle-2 due to on-going ring-finger issues.
In reply to Ally Smith:
That's kind of my point. If it's a flexor tendon issue (as opposed to pulley) open handing is much harder so I'd have expected that to factor into it.
To be fair she did clarify that you really just need to start on whichever grio causes the right level of discomfort, if they vary a lot.
That's kind of my point. If it's a flexor tendon issue (as opposed to pulley) open handing is much harder so I'd have expected that to factor into it.
To be fair she did clarify that you really just need to start on whichever grio causes the right level of discomfort, if they vary a lot.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Average week for me last week (ie no STGs met or whatnot)
Monday max hang, progressed again, mid intensity bouldering for 45 minutes, aerocap.
Tuesday TRX, 4 mile tempo run
Wednesday limit bouldering 2 hours, 4 mile recovery run
Thursday rest/drive to lakes
Friday: Cragging at Armathwaite, interesting little crag but didn't get too much done.
Saturday: Raven Crag, Langdale. Enjoyed Kneewrecker Chimney (HVS) and Mendes (VS)
Sunday: Great fun at Bramcrag Quarry. Took a few routes to get into the slate mindset but really enjoyed it.
This week is unstructured, a week between phase 1 and 2 of my training plan. I'm going to take it as it comes and hopefully get to Portland for the weekend for some sport routes. I'm definitely feeling the finger strength gains when bouldering, not just clinging onto small holds but in power as well, which I'm pleasantly suprised by.
Average week for me last week (ie no STGs met or whatnot)
Monday max hang, progressed again, mid intensity bouldering for 45 minutes, aerocap.
Tuesday TRX, 4 mile tempo run
Wednesday limit bouldering 2 hours, 4 mile recovery run
Thursday rest/drive to lakes
Friday: Cragging at Armathwaite, interesting little crag but didn't get too much done.
Saturday: Raven Crag, Langdale. Enjoyed Kneewrecker Chimney (HVS) and Mendes (VS)
Sunday: Great fun at Bramcrag Quarry. Took a few routes to get into the slate mindset but really enjoyed it.
This week is unstructured, a week between phase 1 and 2 of my training plan. I'm going to take it as it comes and hopefully get to Portland for the weekend for some sport routes. I'm definitely feeling the finger strength gains when bouldering, not just clinging onto small holds but in power as well, which I'm pleasantly suprised by.
2
In reply to AJM:
Will be refreshing this all day http://www.accuweather.com/en/gb/easton/dt5-1/daily-weather-forecast/714652...
Will be refreshing this all day http://www.accuweather.com/en/gb/easton/dt5-1/daily-weather-forecast/714652...
In reply to Ally Smith:
I think it's more to do with making sure that the injured finger has reached a level of recovery/strength/resilience such that it can deal with the extra loads about to be put upon it through the progressive load protocol i.e. if you've injured one finger but can hang off all four with no problems that may well be because your other three are covering for it and it's actually not ready for the progression to come. A two finger hang is much more likely to send signals if it's not ready.
This may not be a problem while you're still 4 fingering. Once you progress from that though i'd suggest there is a higher % chance of injury recurrence. That's not to say it definitely will, just a higher %.
I think it's more to do with making sure that the injured finger has reached a level of recovery/strength/resilience such that it can deal with the extra loads about to be put upon it through the progressive load protocol i.e. if you've injured one finger but can hang off all four with no problems that may well be because your other three are covering for it and it's actually not ready for the progression to come. A two finger hang is much more likely to send signals if it's not ready.
This may not be a problem while you're still 4 fingering. Once you progress from that though i'd suggest there is a higher % chance of injury recurrence. That's not to say it definitely will, just a higher %.
1
In reply to guy127917:
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
Very late this week with fitclub.
Last week:
Mon: fingerboard session. Good progression again.
Tues: rest
Weds: boulder session. Working on the comp wall
Thurs: rest and drive to the Lake District
Fri: Lake District - I got two of my VS goals done. Not exactly a hard crag but one of them (smiling faces) didn't seem to have any gear beyond the first move until the top - perfect day of building confidence in a beautiful location
Sat: Raven Crag in Langdale. Did another of my VS leads which seemed a little harder than the previous day (Bilberry Buttress). Only one more to go to reach my 4 VS lead goal
Sun: Bram crag quarry. Great crag, took a little while to get in the swing of it but did some good leads. Still haven't allowed myself to fall on lead which is a problem when trying something harder as I just won't go for the move.
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
Very late this week with fitclub.
Last week:
Mon: fingerboard session. Good progression again.
Tues: rest
Weds: boulder session. Working on the comp wall
Thurs: rest and drive to the Lake District
Fri: Lake District - I got two of my VS goals done. Not exactly a hard crag but one of them (smiling faces) didn't seem to have any gear beyond the first move until the top - perfect day of building confidence in a beautiful location
Sat: Raven Crag in Langdale. Did another of my VS leads which seemed a little harder than the previous day (Bilberry Buttress). Only one more to go to reach my 4 VS lead goal
Sun: Bram crag quarry. Great crag, took a little while to get in the swing of it but did some good leads. Still haven't allowed myself to fall on lead which is a problem when trying something harder as I just won't go for the move.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Better put something here! Can't remember what I did other than fruitless attempts on my Malham project (I seem to be getting worse) and now my elbow has officially moved from red lined to very sore.
Better put something here! Can't remember what I did other than fruitless attempts on my Malham project (I seem to be getting worse) and now my elbow has officially moved from red lined to very sore.
In reply to guy127917:
I'm unlikely to video myself.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - Rest
T - Indoor routes
W - 5k run
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
Sorta managed to loose a lb. Not entirely sure how. Got out for a run and a climb. Spent most of the weekend doing more house stuff and building flat pack.
I'm unlikely to video myself.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - Rest
T - Indoor routes
W - 5k run
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
Sorta managed to loose a lb. Not entirely sure how. Got out for a run and a climb. Spent most of the weekend doing more house stuff and building flat pack.
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