/ Anyone here following Training for the New Alpinism?

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JayPee630 - on 01 May 2017
As the title says, anyone on here following this training guide? If so, I'd be interested to swap experiences and questions.

Have a 6 week transition phase planned which I started today:

Weekly aim is 3 aerobic sessions (running) and 2 general strength sessions a week.

Start point is 180 minutes of aerobic exercise and 2 general strength sessions (with core workout as warm-up) a week. Every 2 weeks 10% increase in the aerobic total and 1 extra circuit in the strength session.

Starting breakdown is:

Aerobic is a 60 min run at Zone 1 (100-135bpm), 90 min run in Zone 1, and a 30 min run in Zone 2 (136-144bpm).
Strength is a 8 exercise circuit (alt. lower/upper body) doing 10 reps each exercise at comfortable weight, 2 circuits.

Anyone care to share their plans?
Alex Riley on 01 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

I can't comment on plans, but one of my friends climbed Annapurna without o2 and he based most of his training on the book.
betathief - on 01 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

This is a fantastic book and out of all the ones I've read and seen is very comprehensive. All I would advise is that you get into a good routine and vary up what you are doing to stop it getting boring. Also core training should not be done for a warm up, and should have a key part in your strength program.
JayPee630 - on 02 May 2017
In reply to the ant hill mob:

The book recommends a core workout as a warm up for the general strength sessions actually. As as you've read it I'm sure you know that periodization is a major part of the training programs, so no problems with variation.
Bserk - on 02 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

I am preparing for two weeks in Chamonix end of July including MB. Started beginning of April, at the moment my training looks like this:

3 x week strength training (split plan)
3 x week aerobic sessions (2 x 60 min, 1 x 120 min / Zone 1 & 2)
2 x week anaerobic session (2 x 30 min / Zone 3)

an-/aerobic sessions are mainly running and I cover about 50km per week.
planetmarshall on 02 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

The book has its own website and forums, where you might have a better chance of a commend from Scott Johnson. https://www.uphillathlete.com/forums/
JayPee630 - on 02 May 2017
In reply to Bserk:

That sounds good (and a lot!). Did you do a transition plan then that's yr base period? What yr HR zones in bpm if you can be bothered to say.

That's roughly 8 hours a week I'm guessing? If that's what yr on now after a month, it's going to be a heavy program in another 3 months!

betathief - on 02 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:


A warm up should consist of getting the body ready for the exercise you are about to undertake, rather than be a workout in itself on a specific area was the point i was trying to make. I just had a look in the book and can't find the warm up/core workout bit could you point me in the right direction/page just so i can see their justification for it?

I only mentioned it from my own experience about a specific core workout, and also the utter importance of the core in all sports but especially climbing, I remember this is highlighted in the book on multiple occasions.
JayPee630 - on 02 May 2017
In reply to the ant hill mob:

Yeah, I do a few light reps of each of the exercises after the core warm-up as well. I don't have the book to hand, but it very clearly says a few times to do the core workout as a warm up to the general strength sessions.
Mr Fuller on 02 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

I read the book cover-to-cover and used aspects of it in preparation for an expedition a couple of years ago. It helped me enormously and I felt extremely fit while I was out there. I've followed the same rough idea for Alpine trips since then and think I have definitely been fitter as a result of reading the book and changing my training versus what I used to do.

The big new thing for me in the book was getting in lots of low intensity volume work while supplementing with hard sessions. I did one or two strength sessions a week - either steep bouldering or circuit training. I didn't do any gym work, and still don't.

One word of note is that the book's approach is very much designed for Alpinism - i.e. long and slow efforts. I spent about a year wondering why my cycling was not improving greatly based on my training. The thing is, while I was building a massive engine for zone 1 and zone 2 I wasn't getting any faster on the bike as I just didn't have the leg power. That was an easy fix though - just chuck in a few more fast efforts and lots of hard hill reps.
davidbeynon on 09 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

I picked up a copy as a result of this thread. Hoping to do something big later in the year and don't think I'm fast enough.

Right now I'm just working on base fitness while I read the rest and work out what I need to aim for. Current thoughts are that running 2-3 times a week, & walking once a week will cover the aerobic side but not sure what to do for the strength sessions.

I get horrifically bored at gyms, and find that part is a real stumbling block.
JayPee630 - on 09 May 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

How come you're not sure what to do for strength? The book has a whole routine for you? Also some out-of-gym ideas that look good.

I've altered the general strength routine for the transition period, but following the general idea - circuit of 8 exercises with lower weights (50% 1RM) and for 10 reps each, increasing number of circuits done over time. Only takes an hour for 1 core warm-up followed by 2 times through.
davidbeynon on 09 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:
I was unclear. What I meant was that I'm not sure exactly how much strength is required for the route I wish to do this summer, but as it is long rather than hard it may be better to focus on other aspects.

And the book only arrived a couple of days ago so I'm not quite that far into it.
Post edited at 20:45
JayPee630 - on 09 May 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

Yeah, TBH the grade I climb strength isn't really that important, but the book talks about having a high muscular max strength to enable more to be converted into muscular endurance which might be more relevant?
davidbeynon on 09 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:
I can undestand that. Also I had to crank a fair bit harder than usual on a route on Sunday, and am still feeling it. I could have a problem if that happened mid route.
Post edited at 21:21
wbo - on 11 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:
Where are you getting copies from - direct from Patagonia?
JayPee630 - on 11 May 2017
In reply to wbo:

It's on Amazon, and there's copies in Cotswold Outdoor, and probably loads of other places, have seen it in Waterstones too.
Bserk - on 11 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

This is more or less my base plan and I will increase the Zone 1&2 training volume 4-5 weeks before.

I am 33 years old, 6'4 tall, 93kg, got a max HR of 192 and a rest HR of 55. 6.4'
davidbeynon on 11 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

OK. I just got through the relevant section on strength training. Makes more sense now.

I aim to have an actual plan by the middle of next week.
Roberttaylor - on 12 May 2017
In reply to davidbeynon:

What's the objective?
davidbeynon on 12 May 2017
In reply to Roberttaylor:
One of the routes on the N face of Spik, early September. Not that technically difficult, but about 900m of climbing up to VS in a day. Descent is less demanding - easy VF and walk down the other side I believe.
Post edited at 09:30
davidbeynon on 16 May 2017
In reply to JayPee630:

For my transition period I have decided to go with:

1x hour long run (z1)
1x shorter run (z1/2)
1x long run or walk (z1), depending on how weekends play out.

2x strength sessions with core workout as warmup.

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