UKC

I've had what could best be described as nail delamination a couple of times this last month. In other words the nail is slightly pulling away from the nail bed at the fingertip. Only by fraction its enough to cause a lot tenderness around the tips. It's been the index and middle fingers that have been affected.

I think it's from climbing granite cracks. I did lots of finger locks at the weekend, which I figure must leverage the nails away at the corners to some degree. I did very little crimping. I'm not 100% sure about this link though and it could be something else.

I've digged around some American forums and managed to find a little information. Seems superglue is a common solution. Not tried it yet. I imagine it would help with the symptoms when climbing but not sure how much it would help with the actual healing. Anybody tried it? Also heard of people taping the nail tight against the fingertip overnight to aid healing. I've been trying to keep my skin supple and moisturised in case that is contributing. I should also say I have probably been climbing harder than ever in recent months in case that is connected.

Has anybody else experienced nail problems such as these and found reliable solutions?Both for prevention and for management?

In reply to Mr. Lee:

I have similar nail problems but caused by different use - I am basically really heavy but can crimp harder than I weight which causes either the nails to pull free like you say, delaminate where the nail layers come free or the force I put through my fingers forces the finger flesh up so hard that the nail slices into the finger around the edges.

Keep the nails trimmed flat to the tip, stops snagging and the weird pressure splits/cuts.
Snip off hard side cuticles and moisturise.
If you get nail problems, clean and apply Savlon antiseptic cream, wrap in a fresh plaster or use fresh finger tape. I leave this on overnight then allow the skin to dry out and harden back up after any initial healing has closed up any holes or cuts.

They are a bitch, I have thick nail varnish and taping which don't work, only recently when I started taking zinc and magnesium supplements for other things I notice my nails and skin recovered quicker

In reply to alx:


Yeah I think I have the same thing. The broken skin is locally around the very end of the nails in question. The nails were nicely trimmed so it's difficult to be certain whether it's due to the nail delaminating or whether it's from the nail digging into the fresh. Or a combination of both a you say. Also lots of tenderness at the very tip of the finger. Thanks for the advice.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Just to follow up my own post for anybody searching these forums at a later date...

I used superglued around the end of the nail last weekend. The pain around the nail was already reducing by this time but the superglue completely resolved any pain. I needed to reapply a few times but it chipped off easy enough after the climbing was finished.

I'm suspecting dirt/grit under the nail might have been the partial cause for breakdown, along me pushing it quite hard generally of late. Think I'm crimping and finger locking harder than previous. Main lesson I've learnt is to keep on top of the nail care a bit more. From now on I'm taking with me clippers and something to clean under the nails.