/ UKC FitClub 529

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guy127917 - on 07 May 2017
Evening! Thanks for the videos posted so far, I’m going to extend it another week because I realised that it’s not super easy/convenient to catch yourself failing at something (I failed to post), but I still want to see more. If you’re not failing you’re not trying hard enough and all that ^_^

Your ‘homework’ is to take/share a video of yourself failing at something. You can interpret that how you like, it can be as big/small as a redpoint attempt, trying to nail 1-4-7 on a campus board, or trying to do a 1 armed pull-up. Also feel free to ignore this request completely. If you want to get involved with this but are struggling to actually share a video, drop me a message and I can help you out. I’m just going to post to google photo's and share the URL but youtube/vimeo works too


A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=663111

hms: I’m just wondering how much you’ve tried to address the psych side of your climbing (rock warriors way stuff etc) alongside the physical? It sounds like you’ve got a really well rounded approach to it all though so probably I guess it’s just patience now. I saw this video this morning, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9KE2R92pSg
AlanLittle: OK why do you think your moonboarding is going worse? Is finger strength the limiter for progress? Thanks for posting the video- yes the position you end on doesn’t look super efficient!
ad111: Nice progress on your medium term goal! How was the long run?
leeboy: Have you done an ‘alpine combine’ test from TFTNA recently/got one planned?
Richard Popp: Good to hear you got outside and had a good one. Will you be going back for more on Cryogenics?
AJM: Thanks for that video- looks like an awesome bloc. Quite high and cool looking moves!
TheFasting: Stick with it, with a fear of heights you need to nudge the edges of your comfort zone rather than jump outside it. If you go too far and freak out a bit, don’t worry, just dial it back a bit. (what annak said!)
Lancer: I see what you mean about consistency, but you have a lot of variety. For your goals right now I don’t think that’s such a bad thing?
Ally Smith: Nice workout- sets of 20 deadlifts are a recipe for pain.
ianstevens: Congrats on the pb, and nice to see that has got you more psyched for the Cadair Race!
the sheep: well done on pushing the distance- it should make the shorter runs feel breezy!
hokkyo: sounds like wednesday and thursday runs were a commendable commitment to your streak…. (sorry)
Just Tintin: Would you tell us more about your assessments goal?
Dandan: Fair enough attitude! I’ve never heard anyone say “I only want to be a great steep limestone climber” before but I think it’s very great to have found that kind of focus.
biscuit: sounds like a good plan- think of days where you are too busy to climb as ‘rest’ allowing you to crank hard a couple of times a week.
annak: Which exercises caused your wrist issue to flare up? Sounds like a slightly odd one?
guy127917: how was freedom week?
jj: You’re a Bilberry Buttress. What’s your focus for this week?
Tyler: Thanks for checking in- are you going to keep throwing yourself at the project?

AWOL: TonyB, mattrm, alx, Spengler
AJM - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: Thanks for that video- looks like an awesome bloc. Quite high and cool looking moves!

It's very cool. Got a few weeks and then back on it, fingers crossed. Going to try and keep with the fingerboarding and maybe try and pay a bit more attention to diet and see if I can reduce the load the fingers have to take

So, what did I do this week then?
- Monday I did a bunch of weights
- Thursday I got back on the fingerboard. Little rails, nudged the pb up a bit to 94.3kg, close to bw+20 and also the psychological 95kg marker in the sand.
- Sunday, fingerboard again, matched but didn't quite exceed Thursday. Then some overhead press and bicep curls.

Friends were called away this weekend so a weekend at home. Was pretty tired, and miniAJM has been out of sorts which has been difficult. I'd some random bits of walking round town and stuff like that too but nothing serious.

With family this weekend but got Tuesday afternoon off hopefully - start of the Wallsend season.....
Si dH - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Well
> Evening! Thanks for the videos posted so far, I’m going to extend it another week because I realised that it’s not super easy/convenient to catch yourself failing at something (I failed to post), but I still want to see more. If you’re not failing you’re not trying hard enough and all that ^_^Your ‘homework’ is to take/share a video of yourself failing at something. You can interpret that how you like, it can be as big/small as a redpoint attempt, trying to nail 1-4-7 on a campus board, or trying to do a 1 armed pull-up. Also feel free to ignore this request completely. If you want to get involved with this but are struggling to actually share a video, drop me a message and I can help you out. I’m just going to post to google photo's and share the URL but youtube/vimeo works too

Well, I'm not posting weekly any more but I just made this video and the failures were from while I was posting, so maybe it's of interest
Watch from 4:44 to 7:40 if that's what your after - a total of 20 sessions went in to those two un-ticks this and last year... :o/
I prefer the rest of the video really

Si

https://www.vimeo.com/216082584

Post edited at 21:17
mattrm - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 9lbs

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 5k run and indoor routes
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Indoor routes

Spent most of today stripping wallpaper and painting. I also spent a lot of the weekend building flat pack furniture. Been a bit under the weather so there wasn't much energy on tap during the week. But got to the wall twice. Got a run in as well. So all good. I'll see if I can get a video of me falling off a 6b next week.
hms - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

that was quite motivational!

taper week so trying to have short punchy sessions. Plus a fun weekend being put firmly in my place by granite

M - cycle commute, yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. UCR circuit. Quick 6 to warm up, then the hard fingery green circuit which is probably somewhere around 7b. Did WAY better than before - 1-17, 17-34. Can't link through 17 - poor matched pinch thing on a downhill and sideways move, can't get the feet to work.
W - cycle commute. Pressups, shoulder rehab, stretching in evening.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. of ~31 in the new 5+ to 6b set I ticked 18, didn't try 7, didn't get up 6, inc 4 where it was the top move I failed on. So definitely room for more tickage. Of those 4, 1 was really badly set - tiny foot hold screwed on a couple of inches above a huge jug, so any slip would slam onto the jug and tip one over backwards at speed. 1 had become badly set - new route had plonked a pointy volume exactly at groin height on the final move!!
F - 3 miles urban walking.
S - Bovey Woods. Got to the heady heights of 5+. Couldn't finish a couple of 6a slabs due to extreme lack on anything to hold on to. Failed to get my arse off the floor on some 6bs. Don't know if I was drastically lacking key skills for granite, if conditions were bad (holds felt greasy, but didn't know what granite was supposed to feel like?) or a killer combo of the two!
S - Honeybag Tor (near Bonehill but a lot quiter! Yeah, got a 6b. Twice, as there was some doubt as to where it went so I did both ways. Felt much more in tune with the rock today, and there was none of yesterday's greasiness.

Keen for a granite rematch, but think we'll stick to tors not woods maybe.
AlanLittle - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:
STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG ( why do you think your moonboarding is going worse? Is finger strength the limiter for progress?

Good question. On the routes I'm aiming at this year I think I'm mostly head- and technique-limited and actually strong enough. But longer term I'm not very strong for the level I climb at, and I think to climb significantly harder routes I'm going to have to get stronger. Hence the moonboarding.

I had significant gains in a five week block from the beginning of March, but then just felt my power had peaked and I couldn't pull as hard any more. I've also stepped up my general level of training this year - checking my training logs, last year I was averaging 14 sessions climbing or climbing-specific training a month, this year so far I'm on 17. So I think it's a combination of a power training cycle naturally running its course, and just general cumulative fatigue. Definitely not Overtraining-with-a-capital-O though. I've experienced that in the past and I'm nowhere near it now.
Post edited at 21:37
hms - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

oh, and we saw a baby adder on the way down off the tor today - it was about the size of a pencil and SO sweet!
hms - on 07 May 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

oddly spaced bolting can be sorted by cunning use of extended slings, doubling up on clips etc of course. You aren't constrained by where the bolter thought was a good idea.
AJM - on 07 May 2017
In reply to hms:

> S - Bovey Woods. Got to the heady heights of 5+. Couldn't finish a couple of 6a slabs due to extreme lack on anything to hold on to. Failed to get my arse off the floor on some 6bs. Don't know if I was drastically lacking key skills for granite, if conditions were bad (holds felt greasy, but didn't know what granite was supposed to feel like?) or a killer combo of the two!
> S - Honeybag Tor (near Bonehill but a lot quiter! Yeah, got a 6b. Twice, as there was some doubt as to where it went so I did both ways. Felt much more in tune with the rock today, and there was none of yesterday's greasiness.

It was comparatively muggy here on Saturday afternoon - if it was like that then without the wind I can easy imagine grease. It's worth trying it in decent conditions before dismissing the woods entirely...
AlanLittle - on 07 May 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Oops, seem to have ballsed up an edit on my post. Here it is again, hopefully in full this time.

STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Shoulders 40 mins: TGUs, presses, mobility
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Weaker than weak. Time to accept the reality of a continuous downward trend in bouldering strength for four weeks straight and take a break for a couple of weeks.
W: Decided to skip my normal Wednesday routes session at the wall in favour of Resting.
T: Beastmaker short morning session before work: maintenance level max-ish hangs plus shoulder presses & mobility between sets
F: Rest. Half hour stretching & mobility.

S: Konstein sport climbing. Wasn't feeling super strong or motivated, but a mate needed a belay on his project so out I went. Had a couple of goes on mate's 7b+ slab project (!), most of which was surprisingly ok but here was one section neither of us was even vaguely close on. Then had a look at 7a+ that I had a play on on toprope a few years ago. It has some cool moves, but is a very narrowly defined eliminate with oddly positioned bolts; didn't find it appealing enough to want to put more effort into it. Dropping the grade another notch, had a go on another old project at 6c+, but it has a steep powerful start and I was completely powered out by this time. So nothing in the redpoint bag today, but put time in doing moves on plenty of hard-for-me stuff and had fun on most of it (except the 6c+ arse kicking)

S: Rainy day. Stretching, mobility, foam rolling. Feeling a bit disappointed with myself for not putting more effort in on the 7a+ yesterday. But also very tired and sore, so maybe I couldn't actually have put much more effort in.

> why do you think your moonboarding is going worse? Is finger strength the limiter for progress?

Good question. On the routes I'm aiming at this year I think I'm mostly head- and technique-limited and actually strong enough. But longer term I'm not very strong for the level I climb at, and I think to climb significantly harder routes I'm going to have to get stronger. Hence the moonboarding.

I had significant gains in a five week block from the beginning of March, but then just felt my power had peaked and I couldn't pull as hard any more. I've also stepped up my general level of training this year - checking my training logs, last year I was averaging 14 sessions climbing or climbing-specific training a month, this year so far I'm on 17. So I think it's a combination of a power training cycle naturally running its course, and just general cumulative fatigue. Definitely not Overtraining with a capital O though. I've experienced that in the past and I'm nowhere near it now.
Lancer - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

A fair point- I do like the variety but just need to consistently get myself into training when I get home exhausted from work on a weeknight. Was out on grit leading for the first time this year and felt good so hoping fitness will help with mission HVS/ E1...


Mon- fingerboard in the evening- Beastmaker App 5c routine- 47/49, followed by 3x8 pull ups (alternate 2 finger and 4 finger).
Tues- worked until 10pm. 3x40 press ups and 3x20second "frog stand"bodyweight exercise (long term aim of holding a "planche").
Wed- interval session at lunchtime- 10 x 100m sprints, with 10 press-ups and 60 second recovery jog.
Thurs- out leading trad for the first time this year at Stanage Plantation after work- led a nice slab VS 5a and a layback flake VS 4c, as well as seconded a couple of easier routes. The slab 5a route felt comfortable, which was good!
Fri- work and rest!
Sat- 10 x 100m sprints, with 10 press-ups and 30 second recovery, at EIS with my son, whilst my daughter played netball! Pm- Frenchies- 1 x 4, 2 x 3/ wrist roller- 3 x 6 kg/ 3 x 20 second frog stand.
Sun- nothing as had too much work on. Fingerboarding in the evening- Beastmaker App 5c routine- 47/49
Just Tintin - on 07 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. The assessments are boring - just getting the qualification ticks in for the MT awards so I have them in the bag if I ever need to swap to Plan B - ie job in outdoor industry.

Awesome weekend - had to show some friends from the US round Oxford today so made a conscious effort to get out on grit on Friday night to compensate for lost day. Decided the conditions might be in the Goldilocks zone and tried Chatsworth - and led my first E2 and E3 on grit

Caveat: Nobody else has led the E3 on UKC since first ascent and only failed TR attempts have been logged so hard to know if it is consensus grade. In my limited experience it felt like a 6A boulder problem until the gear with crux technically harder and scarier than the E2 5c. The E2 (Pearls (E2 5c)) was a classic so feel safe that that was on the grade.

M - fingerboard
T - core
W - 1 on 2 off
T - nothing
F - trad Chatsworth. Warmed up on Mort Wall (HVS 5a) which was easy but realised that the rock was in condition just needed some de-lichening. Started off up an E1 slab on lead and ended up bottling it on lichenous holds so untied and made Ben drop down a top rope to finish it. TR an E3 next to it. Also lichenous but TR a few times cleaning up smears and slopers.
S - led the E3 Cadenza (E3 5c)after some TR brushing. Went to check out Emerald Crack (E3 6a) and decided the cleaning required was more than I could bear so jumped on Pearls (E2 5c) instead. Great route on a strong line! Will definitely come back for EC though. Jams looks great (unlike Sentinel Crack which looks awful!)
S - oxford tour guiding for our friends from Denver. While punting we planned an awesome Utah canyoneering trip for Autumn 2018.

AlanLittle - on 08 May 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

> While punting we planned an awesome Utah canyoneering trip for Autumn 2018.

Sounds great, where are you going? I did Buckskin/Pariah on my one trip to the South West and it was fantastic, but I guess that's pretty much the Stanage Popular of canyons. There's some serious hairy wilderness over there.
annak on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I think it was doing reverse wrist curls - after about 4 days my wrists felt distinctly odd during the exercise, and painful for days afterwards. It's 95% better now, a slight feeling of heat in one wrist from time to time but nearly fine.

Given the sucess of last week's redpointing efforts, I tried headpointing for the first time, on an n6 in Bohuslan yesterday, and it went! That's two grades harder than I've ever led on trad, and it wasn't especially a route that suited me - the crux for me was the intermediate move getting to the 'real' crux (I'm a shortarse). Super happy, not just with the route but that I had a go at it, the first attempt on toprope Saturday morning it felt near impossible and it would have been easy to say it was too hard and move on.

M: Bohuslan (last day of long weekend): tried to lead a total sandbag of a n5, backed off at the enormous gearless chimney which I was semi sure I was about to catapult myself out of and hit the deck. Still kind of terrifying on second.
Tu: Cycle commute, weights (squat and benchpress), yoga
W: Cycle commute, tried to go climbing at local crag but not a single line free. Went for a walk instead.
Th: Cycle commute, weights (deadlift, pullups)
F: Cycle commute
Sa: Bohuslan - went out intending to do easy milage leads, got a couple of easy ones in then an n5+. Fingerlocks suddenly feeling secure for the first time in my life. Seconded an n6- after lunch - jammed the whole thing. I appear to be able to jam now! This is very exciting. Toproped an n6, took ages to work out a sequence that worked for me.
Su: Bohuslan - back to play on the n6, my partner led it off the bat, I toproped a few times through with a number of falls, worked out better beta, then led it clean So happy!
Just Tintin - on 08 May 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

I'll let you know the itinerary -when I get it - they're sending over the links when they get back to the US. It's funny it's something I'd never thought of doing but then they described it and I was sold,
yet also glad that we will have someone local to take us around as the getting lost/stuck at the bottom of a hole potential sounds pretty serious!

guy127917 - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917: Terrible week for me- hit a wall physically and mentally. I felt fatigued last week in the Lakes and had lost that really psyched feeling, but since we had an unstructured week to recuperate thought it would resolve itself. I actually felt pretty good during the two training sessions this week, but by the time we were driving down to Portland I had all sorts of aches and pains. We did about 5 pitches on Friday before lunch, and then fell asleep for 3 hours. The following day was no better- did 3 pitches feeling every muscle and joint creaking and called it a weekend. Rest day yesterday and a 90 minute sports massage was mentally rejuvenating but doesn't seem to have made me feel much physically better.

5 weeks of training left before 2 week taper for Canada trip. I haven't got the second part of my training plan through from Robin yet, so will be continuing with the same routine for now.

Monday: About 20 1 arm 10s hangs- didn't have a pulley with me, these are a lot easier with a karabiner because of the additional resistance. 2 hours bouldering on new comp set. Stretching.
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: Campus ladders 123,124,134,135,125,145,135,134,124,123 each 3xL+R on the minute. 2 hours bouldering. Stretching.
Thursday: rest
Friday: 4 pitches
Saturday: 3 pitches
Sunday: sports massage, rest


Plan for week 8 is: foam roller + stretch daily, see an osteo to understand issue better (is it genuinely fatigue or some other issue?), try and progress one arm hangs and possibly get some AeroCap in, but no bouldering.

My other aim for the week is to constantly try and create the mental link between progressing climbing performance and everyday actions- how I sit/stand at my desk, what I eat, how I think.
AlanLittle - on 08 May 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

It's great. The ones I did weren't very technical, but from what I gather from mountainproject etc, you'll have the chance to learn some well eye-opening leave-no-trace abseiling techniques if you do harder ones
biscuit - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy. I'm very much in 'rest' at the moment then

Last week had one good day as a hangover from the previous bank holiday weekend away. Went to Trow Gill and did a hatful of really good 6b+'s. Unusual place. Like trad on bolts. Not in it being run out (though some were) but you had to stop and really plan where you were off too before progressing to the next bolt. Nice place and will go back - when it's a bit warmer.

Other than that I did some mobilisations, stretches, revision and went to the beach this weekend.

This week may be a nil return climbing wise as it's exam time.

End of Uni also means end of bike commuting so i'll be losing a lot of cardio. It's unlikely that if the weather's good i'll be looking at going for a run/bike as i'll want to go and climb. So I've logged back on to My Fitness Pal to keep an eye on what's going in.

My goal this week is to formulate an actual routine for my mobilisations/stretches and the core/shoulder stuff I've devised and to hit the MFP targets. At the moment i'm paying lip service to the prehab stuff and I feel really good after doing it so need to be more disciplined with them.
hokkyokusei - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Evening! Thanks for the videos posted so far, I’m going to extend it another week because I realised that it’s not super easy/convenient to catch yourself failing at something (I failed to post), but I still want to see more. If you’re not failing you’re not trying hard enough and all that ^_^

If only there were video or pictures of me failing at the Three Peaks last week ;)

> hokkyo: sounds like wednesday and thursday runs were a commendable commitment to your streak…. (sorry)

It was a close call ;)

Have largely recovered this week, though I must confess I've been taking it easy, though still just about running every day.

m - 3.5k run
t - 3.5k run
w - 5k run
t - 4k run
f - 4.5k run
s - Over the Odda 10k trail race 54:40, which is a new course PB for me.
s - 3.5k run, 15k hike.


Just Tintin - on 08 May 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes - the tales of denim bags full of sand over the lip, building a roman arch with rocks and hook anchors to ab off were terrifying irresistible!
Just Tintin - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Have you guys started on your hitlist for Canada yet? I've bought the Van Island d Squamish guides if you want me to post them when I get back (1 June)?
guy127917 - on 08 May 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

That would be awesome! We haven't put anything substantive together yet- we basically have flights, a 4x4, and this guide, but have only flicked through it so far really: http://www.needlesports.com/2957/products/canadian-rock--select-climbs-of-the-west.aspx


ad111 on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Despite the climbing going badly this week - my skin was ruined and my shoulders exhausted, I feel pretty good now that my body feels rested.

The half marathon is on Saturday, I don't feel very well prepared but hopefully it will go OK.

It's time for a new set of goals so I'll try to give them some thought through the week.

M: 10km run - felt rubbish till 6km the felt OK for the rest.

T: Outdoor bouldering at Munkkiniemi

W: Rest

T: More outdoor bouldering

F: Rest

S: 10km run - Felt rubbish for the first half and then sped up for the second half.

S: Rest
the sheep - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Very little to report from last week as the eldest daughter had an impromptu trip to hospital with abdominal pain.

A 26km ride and a 5km run early in the week then nothing.

More to report next week hopefully.
Ally Smith on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Week 19
M - Lots of DIY & gardening, then quick lot of easy/rehab deadhangs in evening. 4x 10s bodyweight BM2K-AA @BW-10kg. 4x10s RH only @BW-10kg on campus slot (no nestling) – this feels miles easier than 2-hands @BW+55kg, but should actually be the very similar in intensity? 4x12 reverse flys & 20 OHP with 7.5kg-ish dumbbells.
T - Started feeling grotty & thought it wise to have an early night owing to leagues of travel lined up for coming weeks.
W - Early start to London. Hotel gym. 25min aerobic biking/cross-trainer. 510 core movements (crunchies, tucks & side crunchies). Bunch of dumbbell bench press (30kg), reverse flys (16kg) & reverse I’s (8kg).
T - Home from London and took a bit of effort to motivate myself after G&T on the train ;-) Easy/rehab deadhangs; 6x10s@BW on 35 degree slopers. 4x10s RH only @BW-8.25kg on campus slot – much harder than Monday. 3x 8/6 narrow/wide pull-ups. Early night – still feeling a bit grotty.
F - Nowt. Dinner with friends. Finger finally starting to feel less stiff – seems it needs the gentle hangs to remind it to heal.
S - 50-ish routes soloing at Burbage North. Nothing difficult – Mod to VS mostly with an E2 thrown in for adrenaline top-up. Ran out of beans at Knights Move and realised I needed to be back in Manchester pronto so had an unpleasant run back to the car with pad and rucksack. Another large dinner.
S - 15km biking around Macclesfield Forest. Not quite as good as I was expecting – a mixture of lame-ass fire-road and full-on DH gnarl – not much intermediate stuff (i.e. not double diamond black that’s impossible to ride without a 8” travel DH bike, or world-cup standard skills!) Wibbly legs from 1:5 fire-road climb. 3miles park walking pushing a wheel-chair on uneven ground was a good session of shoulders/antag exercise.


STG – end of May:
Fix finger; get back up to f7a pain-free
Do bolted projects on Orme
Do lots of shoulder & elbow rehab
Do lots of core – static & dynamic
leeboy1985 - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

I do really need to do a re assessment soon. Problem I have is my original results are on my laptop which I broke and have not got fixed as I don't really need it. Still it would be good to do the benchmark again for future reference.

Not as much Cardio as I would of liked this week but I knew I was away on the weekend so I was taking it easy well that is what I told myself

M - Rest

T - AM - 16km bike ride
PM - 17km bike ride

W - 5km run 5,5,4 pull ups 4x5 squats

T - 3x10 push ups, 3x5 leg raises

F - Rest

S - Left south wales at 6am to get up north for 9am and climbed Amphitheatre Buttress (VD)

S - Climbed Sub-Cneifion Rib and Cneifion Arete (D) Drove Home

Happy Training
Lee
leeboy1985 - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Don't start thinking about how you sit/stand. I done a course in Ergonomics in work last week and all I keep thinking about is how bad my posture really is and keep trying to correct myself
Dandan82 - on 08 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

>Dandan: Fair enough attitude! I’ve never heard anyone say “I only want to be a great steep limestone climber” before but I think it’s very great to have found that kind of focus.

Cheers Guy,
I just know what I like when it comes to routes! Every hard route that has inspired and motivated me has been on steep limestone, so that's what I'll tend to go for.
Who knows, in a few years I might have a weird urge to explore trad chimneys, but until that happens, or I run out of steep limestone routes, I'll stick to what keeps me motivated.

That being said, I did spend Sunday doing mainly slabby boulders at The Climbing Station in order to work my weaknesses a bit, my local wall has no slab so it was a nice change.

M: Indoor Boulder at Boulder Shack, did Progressive Ancap with 27 sec rests between boulders. Different set of routes to last week due to location but the session went well.

T: Indoor boulder; Continuity 8 min on 8 min off at new wall The Ballroom in Coventry, it was my first visit so I also sampled the routes (quite impressed) and spent far too much energy on the 45 degree woody. Its a nice wall with some good training equipment, a moonboard is in the process of being installed too.

W: Core

T: Indoor routes; Polarised continuity at 7a, normally do it at 7a+ or 7b but this was my first time back on ropes indoors since Margalef so I went steady

F: Rings and pullups

S: DIY club; more progress on the workshop, also built a cold frame for some tomato plants

S: The Climbing Station, Mrs Dandan had booked a lattice assessment on their 10 degree board which she enjoyed thoroughly, and I was very pleased to see her trying super hard.
I mooched about on the slabs, trying to remember how to put weight through my feet, I managed one of the V5-6 circuit which I was dead chuffed with!
I also did the majority of a Max strength session, although I tweaked my neck while pulling up to a front lever, I've tweaked it before but always just sat at my desk, this is the first time it went during activity, it's very stiff today.
Did my first fingerboard session for a couple of months in the evening, that went well, I was concerned about my finger but the two handed nature of the session seemed to keep the stress low enough. Pull ups on 40mm slot at +40kg and 7/3 hangs on AA slot at +12.5kg. Lower than my previous best as I didn't want to push too hard, but it felt surprisingly comfortable, I should be able to improve upon my best quite soon.

New goals to follow...
AlanLittle - on 09 May 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> I did spend Sunday doing mainly slabby boulders at The Climbing Station in order to work my weaknesses a bit, my local wall has no slab so it was a nice change.

I come from Leicester, and my parents still lived there until recently, so I've been to The Climbing Station a few times. I think it's great, and the main reason is precisely that - lower average angle than a lot of modern walls, and route setting that tends to be tricky rather than burly. Probably the best modern bouldering wall I've been to for training for real rock.
alx - on 09 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,

Slight nightmare these last few weeks with very little climbing done, illness, family visit to Sheffield and an impromptu visit to the hospital for my other half for a day surgery case.

Currently tapering with only gym work and lots of stretching being done right now in the final two weeks run up.

Managed a short trip to Anston Stones on Sunday morning, felt really quite low in terms of strength, power and managed to drag myself up Magnum Eliminate (f7C+) on the second try after warming up by lapping Colt 7A+ Before slicing open my finger on Bullet

Went home and managed to hang my 4mm test edge (a padded out 14mm beastmaker campus rung) which was a surprise.

Currently trying to keep my muscle recruitment and any hormonal/biochemical fitness gained from training these last few months in shape by doing exercises with very few reps, very high intensity, long rests and only twice a week. Biggest issues right now are getting the skin ready for the trip, managing the tweaks and pains which are seeming to worm themselves out of the woodwork having stopped training at such high volume.
Post edited at 12:08
Dandan82 - on 09 May 2017
In reply to alx:

> Went home and managed to hang my 4mm test edge (a padded out 14mm beastmaker campus rung) which was a surprise.

I'm sorry, what now?!

Richard Popp - on 09 May 2017
In reply to guy127917: Oh dear, calamity strikes, or rather I strike myself in some rather careless way.

had a reasonable session on Monday ticking away at the 5+-6B problems then arrived late and a bit tired/aimless on Thursday, ticked a few things before pinging off the top of the mothership popping when i should have been balancing and landing on my elbow driving my arm into my shoulder, just no where for it to bend or go-excruciating pain, thought I had dislocated my shoulder.

Still painful now, restricted, some spectacular bruises particularly on my bicep, large and deep black. Pain is changing and the formation of the bruises and improvement in movement has left me hopeful it will pass quicker than before, needless to say it is the same shoulder.

Rich

alx - on 09 May 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

It's not as epic as it sounds.

User Jakk came, round my house, hung all my test edges with the greatest of ease and did a one arm pull up off the bm2k crimp as a warm up for CWIF..

Check out Beastmakers Facebook page, they are planning on selling some 6mm edges which look ace!
Jen Jones - on 11 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hello. Great challenge. Will try to get something posted.

Late again. Will post Sunday/Monday next week.
Last week was 'rest' week so did bouldering for fun and then climbing in Portland at the weekend.

Monday: bouldering session at the castle mainly on the comp wall which was reset. Worked hard on a green overhanging problem that I didn't manage to get.
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: as Monday but sent the green problem first go and moved onto no. 24/30 which I very nearly got.
Thursday: driving to Portland
Friday: did a few climbs at The Cuttings and decided to have a crack at the vulcanites but it was very windy and a bit cold so sacked that in but will go back for as many goes as it takes.
Saturday: climbed at Cheyne Wears and red pointed a 6b which had evaded me before but I think at a different point. Still finding it very hard to climb above the bolt on shady ground but finally managed it!
Sunday: run - improved my time again by 1 second/mile!!

My focus for this week is to regroup and next week get back on it.

STG: redpoint a 6c sport at Portland
MTG: an HVS and The Vulcanites on lead
LTG: to be Lynn Hill
ianstevens - on 12 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for the stats again this week Guy.

Mon:
Made the most of the bank holiday - long run, 19km (541m) along the coast path

Tue:
Yoga (30 mins)
Traversing on the seawall until failure, 45 mins. Generally crimpy holds on a vertical wall, no moves above Font 5.
Uni club end of year meal - "I'm not going out" turned into a 4am-er. Whoops.

Weds:
Hungover, slow cycle - 31.8km (505m)

Thurs:
Dreaded two day hangover. Tried my planned session anyway (6*800s on the track), managed 3.5* 800s.

Fri:
Yoga 35 mins

Sat:
ML work, up and down Snowdon

Sun:
Went up to Cloggy and did White Slab (E2 5c) - one of the best routes I've done. Found quite easy aside from getting off the floor, but mainly was scared at this bit so climbed badly. RIP RP too (unless someone swags it, then treat her well).

Goals for next week: Go big before a rest/race the week after. Have had to call off my trip (booo!) due to surprise work commitments and lack of funds

STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech - happy to let this one roll over as I haven't had time to get to it
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Top 20 at Cadair Race
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job

MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in

LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Spengler on 12 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

M - Penmaenbach Quarry - Warm up on a few routes, then 6b+ and 6c O/S.
T - Lunch: 4 x 15 push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
W - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: 10 min planche progressions - 10 min front lever progressions - 10 min raised reverse plank
Fingerboard - 5 x 5s - 5on/5off - 5 reps - 5 sets - 5 mins between sets
22mm Half Crimp - +0kg
T - Rest
F - Originally planned to get up to the Grochan, but very windy, so bailed to Bus Stop to try and find some shelter. Warmed up on Solstice and Equinox, then a couple of goes at Beltane 7b/+. Very hard, but seems doable. Savage on the finger tips though.
S - Rest
S - LPT. Bosch Bastards 6b+. Dogged up Pink Pinkie, but didn’t really rate it so stripped it, seems straightforward enough aside from the short mono crux section that I couldn’t figure out. Skin still sore from Friday too.

May Goals Update

STG (Last Month)
• Start working a local 7a. Tick Got one done.
• Keep trying 6c O/Ss. I’ll run out soon though… Tick Got a couple o/s and a couple second go.
• Get some trad mileage in. Not really Had a couple of trad days, but not enough.

STG (This Month)
• More Trad mileage.
• Find a 7a+ project.

MTG (2-3 Months)
• Get cracking on some harder E2 O/Ss. Spectrum, Left Wall, Bran Flake?
guy127917 - on 14 May 2017
In reply to Si dH:

enjoyed watching this, thanks for posting!
Northernladlovesgravy - on 14 May 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Ukc fitclub peeps im in need of help, starting the road of quitting social smoking and want to increase my cardio, running seems to kill my back if i over do it, any good goals, ways of getting round it? Starting doing dog walks with bits of light running at minute

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