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Planning on going to The Lakes a bit this summer. I know very little about the climbing there, and have probably only done about 10 routes.
Can I have some must do routes on some must visit crags please in the mid E's please.
Yes I'm sure there's too many to list, and yes I should be researching it myself (I'll be doing that too) but it's nice to have a climbing discussion on here for a change
So far, the only route I have is The Cumbrian.
Deacon
Can I have some must do routes on some must visit crags please in the mid E's please.
Yes I'm sure there's too many to list, and yes I should be researching it myself (I'll be doing that too) but it's nice to have a climbing discussion on here for a change
So far, the only route I have is The Cumbrian.
Deacon
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In reply to leewil86:
Funnily enough my da lives in the Lakes but it's unlikely I'll be 'doing' him.
Is that how you guys roll in Anglesey? Oh well, each to there own.
Funnily enough my da lives in the Lakes but it's unlikely I'll be 'doing' him.
Is that how you guys roll in Anglesey? Oh well, each to there own.
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In reply to deacondeacon:
Maybe drop the grade to E2 on occasion to take in a few must dos. Not really done any at those grades, but I would have thought that the other E5 that first springs to mind would be Shere Khan.
Then you'll want to do Ichabod and Roaring Silence. Then nip over to the Central Buttress to do CB (up the flake for E3), Saxon and Nazgul.
Can't really think of much at E4 except The White Wizard.
Maybe drop the grade to E2 on occasion to take in a few must dos. Not really done any at those grades, but I would have thought that the other E5 that first springs to mind would be Shere Khan.
Then you'll want to do Ichabod and Roaring Silence. Then nip over to the Central Buttress to do CB (up the flake for E3), Saxon and Nazgul.
Can't really think of much at E4 except The White Wizard.
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In reply to deacondeacon:
I've not done a right lot of E3s up here (none since I moved, although the E2 5c I did today had no gear, and the E2 the other day was sustained, overhanging 5c on crimps that got me pumped to infinity on second...), but these are the ones I'm super keen for
Roaring Silence - one I have done. Utterly great, bit bold, bit strenuous, big, wild setting. Loads more classic E3s on East Buttress to go at too.
White Wizard and Nazgul - big E3s on Scafell, what more needs to be said?
Humdrum - on the Lakeland Revival list, will try to get on this soon.
One Step Beyond - classy, bold slab climbing .
Eastern Hammer - pumpy as f*ck, by the looks of things.
Cruel Sister. Another one I've actually done. Bit bold, very good climbing on a classy crag.
The Vikings. Strenny crack, big setting by the John Dunne route Breathless.
White Noise. Failed on this (pumped) - tremendously sustained crack and wall climbing. If you want sporty little routes on great rock with decent gear, E2 - E big, this is your crag.
Also, check out the Arc'Teryx Lakeland Revival "Reet' Ard" list. Stuff like Fanghorne, Snicker Snack, etc on there that are on remote, freezing cold crags. Prize ticks!
Everything's dry at the moment and there are free t-shirts available for ticking brilliant routes. Come up and get stuck in, the routes are awesome.
I've not done a right lot of E3s up here (none since I moved, although the E2 5c I did today had no gear, and the E2 the other day was sustained, overhanging 5c on crimps that got me pumped to infinity on second...), but these are the ones I'm super keen for
Roaring Silence - one I have done. Utterly great, bit bold, bit strenuous, big, wild setting. Loads more classic E3s on East Buttress to go at too.
White Wizard and Nazgul - big E3s on Scafell, what more needs to be said?
Humdrum - on the Lakeland Revival list, will try to get on this soon.
One Step Beyond - classy, bold slab climbing .
Eastern Hammer - pumpy as f*ck, by the looks of things.
Cruel Sister. Another one I've actually done. Bit bold, very good climbing on a classy crag.
The Vikings. Strenny crack, big setting by the John Dunne route Breathless.
White Noise. Failed on this (pumped) - tremendously sustained crack and wall climbing. If you want sporty little routes on great rock with decent gear, E2 - E big, this is your crag.
Also, check out the Arc'Teryx Lakeland Revival "Reet' Ard" list. Stuff like Fanghorne, Snicker Snack, etc on there that are on remote, freezing cold crags. Prize ticks!
Everything's dry at the moment and there are free t-shirts available for ticking brilliant routes. Come up and get stuck in, the routes are awesome.
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In reply to LakesWinter:
Of course. And Grand Alliance. And the first pitches won't be piss wet at the moment either.
Anyone fancy getting on these on Tuesday?
> Prana, Black Crag has a good reputation.
Of course. And Grand Alliance. And the first pitches won't be piss wet at the moment either.
Anyone fancy getting on these on Tuesday?
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In reply to deacondeacon:
There must be some super classic E5s on Dove Crag, possibly the coldest, wettest dirtiest crag in the Lakes (and therefore England). Do one of those and you'll deserve a little pat on the back.
There must be some super classic E5s on Dove Crag, possibly the coldest, wettest dirtiest crag in the Lakes (and therefore England). Do one of those and you'll deserve a little pat on the back.
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In reply to deacondeacon:
Cheers for all the replies so far everyone. Plenty to start thinking about.
Cheers for all the replies so far everyone. Plenty to start thinking about.
In reply to deacondeacon:
My experience is limited but a few recommended days:
- Good day at Reecastle - a bunch of good E3s and harder
- Black crag for prana and grand alliance
- Gimmer for eastern hammer (not done) and equus (E2, but let's face it not a lot of change from E3)
The days I'd yet like to have (aside from actually doing eastern hammer) would probably be on scafell - white wizard, roaring silence and many more - and on dow - tumble primarily.
My experience is limited but a few recommended days:
- Good day at Reecastle - a bunch of good E3s and harder
- Black crag for prana and grand alliance
- Gimmer for eastern hammer (not done) and equus (E2, but let's face it not a lot of change from E3)
The days I'd yet like to have (aside from actually doing eastern hammer) would probably be on scafell - white wizard, roaring silence and many more - and on dow - tumble primarily.
In reply to deacondeacon:
Little Chamonix would be a good start for you.......maybe on second to start with.
Little Chamonix would be a good start for you.......maybe on second to start with.
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In reply to AJM:
Yeah, that's kind of the case with a lot of Lakes E2s. Pink Panther, Rigor Mortis, Ted Cheasby...at least Sylvester (2 5c cruxes, both lacking in gear) has been upgraded.
as well as Abraxas and Holocaust.
> equus (E2, but let's face it not a lot of change from E3)
Yeah, that's kind of the case with a lot of Lakes E2s. Pink Panther, Rigor Mortis, Ted Cheasby...at least Sylvester (2 5c cruxes, both lacking in gear) has been upgraded.
> and on dow - tumble primarily.
as well as Abraxas and Holocaust.
In reply to deacondeacon:
Snickersnack, Sarcophagus and The Tomb on Gable are all amazing. Not done Dream Twister but it also looks good. The crag is bone dry at the moment too.
Snickersnack, Sarcophagus and The Tomb on Gable are all amazing. Not done Dream Twister but it also looks good. The crag is bone dry at the moment too.
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In reply to deacondeacon:
Last week would make it a retro flash man. I'm after climbing here if you fancy it:
Castle Rock of Triermain
Last week would make it a retro flash man. I'm after climbing here if you fancy it:
Castle Rock of Triermain
In reply to deacondeacon:
It's not so much the quality of routes as finding them clean, it's not as popular as Snowdonia unfortunately, the following crags are among the more popular and relatively clean (or were when I visited). I'm thinking of E3 and E4 as I've not done any E5s in the Lakes.
Dow Crag is clean and accessible for a mountain crag, Tumble and Holocaust probably get as much traffic as any of their grade.
The Scafell Crags are the jewels in the crown of Lakes climbing and East Buttress stays relatively cleanish but it does need to be warm.
Burnt Crag has a clutch of E3s and a classic E5 (obviously not done that)
Raven Crag Threshlwaite Cove is a must visit and cleanish usually, plenty of excellent three star E3 and E4
Dove Crag for E5 upwards, meant to be good and is often cleaned by locals
Borrowdale has some good crags but they are often dirty (e.g. Goat, Great End and Falcon). Reecastle and Black Crag being the exceptions
Gouther Crag has a couple of well travelled routes, a very bold E2 (I backed off!) and E4 and a safe E3
Black Crag, Wrynose has some soft E3s and a very soft E5
The obvious routes at Iron Crag are good but I seconded the Quest and thought it unjustifiably bold, Marble Staircase was brilliant
Gimmer has a couple of Extreme Rock ticks, one of which is among the best E2s I've ever done
I've not been to Gable but looks good for E3
The Wired select guide is really good, get it. If you do stuff please post it up here, it'd be good to hear what's clean (and chalked)
It's not so much the quality of routes as finding them clean, it's not as popular as Snowdonia unfortunately, the following crags are among the more popular and relatively clean (or were when I visited). I'm thinking of E3 and E4 as I've not done any E5s in the Lakes.
Dow Crag is clean and accessible for a mountain crag, Tumble and Holocaust probably get as much traffic as any of their grade.
The Scafell Crags are the jewels in the crown of Lakes climbing and East Buttress stays relatively cleanish but it does need to be warm.
Burnt Crag has a clutch of E3s and a classic E5 (obviously not done that)
Raven Crag Threshlwaite Cove is a must visit and cleanish usually, plenty of excellent three star E3 and E4
Dove Crag for E5 upwards, meant to be good and is often cleaned by locals
Borrowdale has some good crags but they are often dirty (e.g. Goat, Great End and Falcon). Reecastle and Black Crag being the exceptions
Gouther Crag has a couple of well travelled routes, a very bold E2 (I backed off!) and E4 and a safe E3
Black Crag, Wrynose has some soft E3s and a very soft E5
The obvious routes at Iron Crag are good but I seconded the Quest and thought it unjustifiably bold, Marble Staircase was brilliant
Gimmer has a couple of Extreme Rock ticks, one of which is among the best E2s I've ever done
I've not been to Gable but looks good for E3
The Wired select guide is really good, get it. If you do stuff please post it up here, it'd be good to hear what's clean (and chalked)
Post edited at 22:37
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In reply to Will Hunt:
> I would have thought that the other E5 that first springs to mind would be Shere Khan.
I'm interested why you'd recommend that route in particular?> Then you'll want to do Ichabod and Roaring Silence. Then nip over to the Central Buttress to do CB (up the flake for E3), Saxon and Nazgul.
That'd be hell of a day> Can't really think of much at E4 except The White Wizard.
It's E3 isn't it, did you think it was worth E4?
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In reply to Tyler:
No one's mentioned Tapestry (E4 6a). Anyone know if it stays cleanish - guessing not?
No one's mentioned Tapestry (E4 6a). Anyone know if it stays cleanish - guessing not?
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In reply to Tyler:
I'll start a cleaned this year in the lakes thread and then people can post what they've cleaned or found clean so other people can go and enjoy said routes. It might be helpful for people to say cleaned on lead or cleaned on ab as the latter tends to be more thorough...
I'll start a cleaned this year in the lakes thread and then people can post what they've cleaned or found clean so other people can go and enjoy said routes. It might be helpful for people to say cleaned on lead or cleaned on ab as the latter tends to be more thorough...
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In reply to Tyler:
Crikey, sorry if my suggestions caused upset.
Shere Khan. It's a well known classic. When somebody says Lakes E5 to me there are two routes that spring to mind - The Cumbrian and Shere Khan. I've done neither, but I do know that they're both commonly held in very high regard. Shere Khan is one of the few E5s anywhere that I've ever seen a queue for!
All those routes on Scafell and the East Buttress are probably a bit much for a day, but a weekend or a couple of weekends should be ample time for Deacon. He does say he'll be up quite a bit.
White Wizard. I'd remembered it being E4. Entirely likely I've misremembered that. Oh well. Will have to look in the new definitive at home and see if it went up.
Crikey, sorry if my suggestions caused upset.
Shere Khan. It's a well known classic. When somebody says Lakes E5 to me there are two routes that spring to mind - The Cumbrian and Shere Khan. I've done neither, but I do know that they're both commonly held in very high regard. Shere Khan is one of the few E5s anywhere that I've ever seen a queue for!
All those routes on Scafell and the East Buttress are probably a bit much for a day, but a weekend or a couple of weekends should be ample time for Deacon. He does say he'll be up quite a bit.
White Wizard. I'd remembered it being E4. Entirely likely I've misremembered that. Oh well. Will have to look in the new definitive at home and see if it went up.
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In reply to deacondeacon:
I'd get yourself down to Reecastle Crag plenty of classic routes in the E2-E6 range.
I'd get yourself down to Reecastle Crag plenty of classic routes in the E2-E6 range.
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In reply to Will Hunt:
It's definitely possible: I did Lost Horizons and Shere Khan in a day, then White Wizard, Nazgul, and Saxon the following day. Think that weekend ranks as one of the best weekends of mountain rock climbing I've ever done and definitely possible for a man of Deacon's calibre.
Re: Shere Khan, I'm with you all the way - it's one of the best E5s in the Lakes (in fact, it's in my Top 5 E5s in the UK list). Tried to do The Cumbrian years ago but was rained off, so scuttled up a rather terrifying/wet Central Pillar instead (which was quite exciting). Would love to go back and finish it off...
Other memorable E5s that haven't been mentioned here are Rick Graham's Mirage at Goat Crag, which I thought was both hard and excellent, and Supernatural on Tophet Wall, which represented the other side of the coin being relatively easy but totally out there.
It's definitely possible: I did Lost Horizons and Shere Khan in a day, then White Wizard, Nazgul, and Saxon the following day. Think that weekend ranks as one of the best weekends of mountain rock climbing I've ever done and definitely possible for a man of Deacon's calibre.
Re: Shere Khan, I'm with you all the way - it's one of the best E5s in the Lakes (in fact, it's in my Top 5 E5s in the UK list). Tried to do The Cumbrian years ago but was rained off, so scuttled up a rather terrifying/wet Central Pillar instead (which was quite exciting). Would love to go back and finish it off...
Other memorable E5s that haven't been mentioned here are Rick Graham's Mirage at Goat Crag, which I thought was both hard and excellent, and Supernatural on Tophet Wall, which represented the other side of the coin being relatively easy but totally out there.
Post edited at 13:02
In reply to deacondeacon:
Of the few I've done, these were all brilliant.
Prana + Grand Alliance
Snickersnack + The Tomb
White Noise + Guillotine + Thumbscrew
One Step Beyond (Castration Crack quite good too)
Malice in Wonderland (scary though)
Of the few I've done, these were all brilliant.
Prana + Grand Alliance
Snickersnack + The Tomb
White Noise + Guillotine + Thumbscrew
One Step Beyond (Castration Crack quite good too)
Malice in Wonderland (scary though)
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
>t haven't been mentioned here are Rick Graham's Mirage at Goat Crag,
Only mine for the first 25 metres The upper section had been done as a direct variation on Bitter Oasis a few years earlier.
Dove Crag is not cold and wet, Jon BTW. Gets the sun til midday, often sheltered and better weather than further West.
First Night Nerves at Hodge has extra bolts now and positive holds just where you need them, not the usual slate smeariness.
Flagship and other routes at Boat Howe are well worth the walk.
Only Cruel Sister mentioned so far at Pavey, the routes on the East Wall are all good, especially Mother Courage..
>t haven't been mentioned here are Rick Graham's Mirage at Goat Crag,
Only mine for the first 25 metres The upper section had been done as a direct variation on Bitter Oasis a few years earlier.
Dove Crag is not cold and wet, Jon BTW. Gets the sun til midday, often sheltered and better weather than further West.
First Night Nerves at Hodge has extra bolts now and positive holds just where you need them, not the usual slate smeariness.
Flagship and other routes at Boat Howe are well worth the walk.
Only Cruel Sister mentioned so far at Pavey, the routes on the East Wall are all good, especially Mother Courage..
Post edited at 18:25
In reply to deacondeacon:
Good selection to keep you going. Have a look at the Arcteryx website and the Lakeland Revival initiative this year- with route cards for Hidden Classics and Lakeland Gems - in the Reet 'ard category (E3 and above)
Good selection to keep you going. Have a look at the Arcteryx website and the Lakeland Revival initiative this year- with route cards for Hidden Classics and Lakeland Gems - in the Reet 'ard category (E3 and above)
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In reply to deacondeacon:
In rough order of quality at E3-E5
Scafell
Goat Crag
Dove Crag
Dow Crag
Pavey Ark
Esk Buttress
Outcrop crags:
Reecastle
Burnt Crag
Raven Crag, Threshthwaite.
Hardknott Crag
G.
In rough order of quality at E3-E5
Scafell
Goat Crag
Dove Crag
Dow Crag
Pavey Ark
Esk Buttress
Outcrop crags:
Reecastle
Burnt Crag
Raven Crag, Threshthwaite.
Hardknott Crag
G.
Post edited at 14:22
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In reply to deacondeacon:
I agree with all the suggestions, Shere Khan was clean two years ago and Zeya was cleaned really well at the same time, both brilliant. Also on Scafell crag Shadowfax E4, should be clean but easy to clean from the top of Botterills ( Black rider E5 next to it needs a second ascent).
Burnt crag routes all clean Burning desire is the best of the E5's, Rheteric of meritocracy E4 abed cleaned and the peg checked last year ( might be two years ago !) also cleaned Far hill crag at the same time so the Duddon is well worth a visit.
Not been to Dove for a few years but it is very easy to access the top of Fast and Furious and give it a clean.
Not mentioned is Iron crag some great routes Marble Staircase E4 is very good and will be clean.
Raven crag Langdale is always popular Trilogy is super clean, RnS scary and Fine Time hard but safe.
I would guess that as it has been pretty chilly most of the routes on the higher crags won't have been done yet this year. ( According to the oracle 20 degrees in the valley is the magic number before heading up to Scafell)
I agree with all the suggestions, Shere Khan was clean two years ago and Zeya was cleaned really well at the same time, both brilliant. Also on Scafell crag Shadowfax E4, should be clean but easy to clean from the top of Botterills ( Black rider E5 next to it needs a second ascent).
Burnt crag routes all clean Burning desire is the best of the E5's, Rheteric of meritocracy E4 abed cleaned and the peg checked last year ( might be two years ago !) also cleaned Far hill crag at the same time so the Duddon is well worth a visit.
Not been to Dove for a few years but it is very easy to access the top of Fast and Furious and give it a clean.
Not mentioned is Iron crag some great routes Marble Staircase E4 is very good and will be clean.
Raven crag Langdale is always popular Trilogy is super clean, RnS scary and Fine Time hard but safe.
I would guess that as it has been pretty chilly most of the routes on the higher crags won't have been done yet this year. ( According to the oracle 20 degrees in the valley is the magic number before heading up to Scafell)
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