UKC

Are there any DWS that are suitable for beginner climbers? I'm in Bristol so considering Devon, Cornwall, Dorset and Wales. I have some friends who are interested. I'm fantasising about a venue with lots of steep 5's and low grade 6's all over s0 landings....does such a place exist? Or shall I just take them sport climbing?

In reply to Kemics:
So much in Pembrokeshire!
Barrel zawn - good mid-high tide required but short climbs. The path down was a bit overgrown as of this week.
No match for crag id:3959

Abercastle harbour, good on mid to high, quick walk in and easy approach. Climbs not too high.
Abercastle Area

Loads more besides, and lots in south Pembrokeshire, where most of it will need a high tide...

In reply to Kemics:
I think there are some good DWS crags in Devon that may fit the bill, but I'm not so familiar with that area. Places that I do know that may be of interest areAquanaut Buttress at Seacombe (possibly even easier grades than requested, but a great spot, vertical climbing with great holds and safe landings); Lighthouse Area & Cave Hole (between these locations there are probably enough routes to make a fun day and lots of good Sport and Bouldering nearby if the DWS options run dry Temporary Lifestyle (HS 4b) The Red Crane Traverse (VS 4c) Big Easy Arete (HVS 5a) especially recommended).
At Lulworth The Maypole (HVS 5b) is a long, safe and memorable route, not so much else easy there though.
Heading the other way there are quite a few areas in Pembroke, the only one I've actually climbed at is No match for crag id:3959 which has a few excellent and safe easy offerings (as long as the water is not full of jellyfish - this provided considerable motivation for staying on the rock on my last visit there).

In reply to Kemics:

Hi Kemics, depending on exactly how 'beginner' they are - plus how well they can swim - I'd say the No match for climb id:35091 would make for a fun day out. The grade varies from f5-6a+ depending on where you look, but if you do come to a difficult section you can't climb you can always swim around it. It also goes through some of the most impressive scenery of any route, plus is quite long, so offers a good day out. It's also about as much fun as climbing gets when done as a group - particularly if you know some of the party are likely to fall in!

Other than that your choices are definitely somewhat limited, but I recall Ixtlan (E2 5b) at Portland being particularly good - I think there's a picture of it in my gallery. There's a few other f6s around it that may also be of interest...and an amazing pub for afterwards when the tide goes out...

Hope that's of help.

In reply to Kemics:

Oooh, I've just remembered The Watchtower Part II (6c+ S1) at the London Bridge Area, which is just around the corner from Berry Head. This would also make a good outing for the group at f5+, although it (from what I recall) does have one hard section is the second part (which gets 6c+).

What with this thread and the sunshine outside I'm not quite psyched for DWS, just a shame the sea is so cold currently...

Barrel Zawn (aka Caerbwda Bay)

Be very careful here, the S gradings for some of the climbs here are absurd. I climbed here a few years back and arrived an hour or two before high tide. I sat there watching various big rocks under the S0s wondering what huge tidal surge was going to happen in the next 55 minutes to make them S0s.

It didn't, some of them were barely covered, and there were loads of places with sub 1.5m depth.

I think the Rockfax descriptions for some of the routes are very misleading and dangerous.


I spoke to the author of the new CC ( I think ) Pembroke guide and he confirmed that the Barrel Zawn descriptions in the Rockfax were well out.

Nice routes, just don't fall off.

You can actually see the rocks quite well in the Crag picture linked to above.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

With a decent high tide only the routes in the back (landward) end of Barrel Zawn are dangerous, the easier straight up lines like True Blue (4c) Hippy (4c) Mouse Claws (6b) etc. are above plenty of water. The tidal range is pretty big though and you get much more water on a Spring, so worth studying the tide tables carefully.

In reply to Kemics:

I might be biased as I'm writing the S Devon CC guide but Torbay is your best bet. Sheltered from westerlies and not as tidal as Pembroke. Most newbies will prefer to go sideways so...
1Torquay- Watchtower S1 5+ as far as the cave, then retrace your steps.
2 At Berry Head . Magical Mystery Tour S1 6a+ .Rainbow Bridge Diluted S0 6a+ - as far as the crystal cave, then retrace your steps. Both banned til Aug 1st
3 At Berry Head Quarry Labyrinth Traverse into Barefoot S0 5 and Arch Zawn Traverse S1 6a+
There are a sprinkling of up routes in these areas which will fit the bill too.

The best guides at the moment are Rockfax Deep Water or Littlejohn's SW Climbs. Next year you will have the definitive CC guide with full coverage.

In reply to Kafoozalem:

Is the bird ban currently in on magical mystery tour?

In reply to Kemics:

Yes - till Aug 1st.

Thanks everyone for advice, I think Barrel Zawn looks like a winner for the immediate but definitely going to do magical mystery tour as soon as the ban is off

In reply to Kemics:

There's traditionally a weekend of DWS at Berry Head the first weekend of August. That would be a great time to try it out with lots of psyched and supportive* people about

*may sound like heckling, but it's from a place of love

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Yeah agreed Magical Mystery Tour is great fun.

Though you will definitely have to swim across one short bit unless you can boulder V11.