UKC

I need to replace my quick draws...it seems hawser-laid loops are no longer in vogue. i prefer open loop qds with a string but it seems almost all are thru stitched now...making the quick draw pretty stiff and sticklike. 1) any idea why and 2) any shopper tips for open loop draws?

In reply to simondgee:

They're out of fashion because if one end is looped through the middle the whole thing is only held together by the string and consequently has negligible strength. there is a DMM video somewhere that shows the problem. Open slings without a string are fine

In reply to simondgee:

I just replaced all my qd slings as someone pointed out that they were looking a little furry (probably 12 years old).

I agree that all are stitched now as I did a lot of looking around for lengths, widths etc.. I think the main reason is that the stiffness makes it a lot quicker to clip?

Out of interest, why do you prefer the open loops? I don't think I've had these for around 20 years.

In reply to simondgee:

You can still buy open loop extenders and strings, e.g.

http://www.needlesports.com/2593/quickdraws.aspx

However, here's the scary scary video mentioned by nniff, showing what can happen to an open sling plus string if the sling gets looped through the karabiner in your rucksack:

vimeo.com/29836772

So if you want to use that set-up, make sure you check all your quickdraws before you climb!

In reply to simondgee:

I replaced my open loop extenders about a year ago. DMM for instance still sells them (no strings) in 12, 18, and 25 cm in Nylon and Dyneema. However gear shops seemed to have largely ceased stocking them and I had to order them (Cold Mountain in my case).

In reply to Babika:

Hi. I prefer open slings mainly for their versatility eg krabs easy to remove and use for something else, possible to use for tiny threads and small spikes, and one can basket hitch to wire of nut when a krab would otherwise be loaded over an edge (always thought they would cut through but a recent thread mentioned that this is pretty safe).

In reply to simondgee:
A very good independent retailer of climbing equipment in Keswick seem to make a point of stocking open slings for making floppy Quickdraws in 18, 25 and 30cm lengths. Other outlets are available I'm sure. It's worth understanding the risk/issue with making one end captive with an o-ring or similar, though we each make our own choices. I agree that "Express" Quickdraws seem to be getting stiffer, probabaly due to the move away from nylon. I found Black Diamond 10mm Dynex slings to be the most flexible in a sewn through slings, though it is the older style I have. That said for longer wandering mountain routes I would mostly rack "Alpine" draws with skinny 60cm slings which are as floppy as you like.

Just read Slab Happy's post, and we may be talking about the same retailer!

Thanks all yep ...i have been climbing 35 years and well aware of being wrongly set up/self clipping .. and of course every bit of climbing kit can be abused and misused. The short (10cm) ones i use are impossible to loop through the clipping krab. Being 10cm I prefer them because they have more free movement (which is one of the points of quick draws in the first place). I'll give needle sport some money ta.