UKC

Making the most of Scotland's summer last week, James McHaffie and Dan Varian established a new 130m 3-pitch E9 (6b, 6b/c, 6b) on Coir'Uisg Buttress, Skye, named Moonrise Kingdom. The route is yet another quality addition by the pair, who made the first ascent of Skye Fall E6 6b on the same buttress last year (UKC News Report). James has likened the seriousness of the crux pitch to Indian Face and claims that the line as a whole is a contender for the most serious multipitch climb in the UK.

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In reply to UKC News:
Hopefully the pattern of spring dry sunny weather in the NW highlands will continue for years to come. There must be tons to do up there.

In reply to pasbury:


Including downhill waterskiing on Loch Coruisk it seems

In reply to UKC News:

"...the pair left the area the next morning to climb Supercharger...

1st completion of Extreme Rock can't be far off for James McHaffie, eh?

In reply to UKC News:

Did anyone else read "Mongoose Kingdom", only to be disappointed on second glance...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Don't know about that, but all the talk of Coruisk Buttress and moonrise made me type 'Moonlight Buttress' by mistake twice!!

In reply to UKC News:

Such an impressive wall. It makes you wonder whether there is a similarly impressive wall lurking around Coruisk which hasn't been developed yet? Presumably with this being at the very head of the loch, with the teams heading there having walked past everything to get there, there isn't anything else hiding away? I wonder whether there is anything similar lying around somewhere else on the Cuillin?

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

mongoose condom it said to begin with

In reply to Will Hunt:

To honest, when you're in the corrie Skye wall isn't that noticeable. There is rock everywhere. Close up, its size and smoothness are spectacular, but there are crags all around that are similar sized or bigger but different in character, few of which have any routes - the East face of Sgurr Mhic Connich being the only one that looks at all developed. The north face of Sgurr Coire an Lochain looks to be worth closer inspection, as do many of the crags along the south side of Druim nan Ramh. Whether any of these will turn up a 'super-route', who knows, but there's a lifetime of quality mid-grade new routing to do. And if you are into doing new bold, slightly lineless V Diff slabs you'll need several more lives.

In reply to UKC News:

Great effort.