/ Pembroke Guidebook

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routrax - on 15 May 2017
Hi All,
I'm going to be heading to Pembroke next month and was looking for a general guidebook.
Something with both trad and sport in the lower grades would be cool.
The Climbers Club seem to have a comprehensive set, but as I'll not be climbing there that often a general on would do.
Cheers
Steve
Graeme Hammond - on 15 May 2017
In reply to routrax:

The selected guide by Wired is the best bet see link below, it covers almost all of the best lower grade trad. There is no Sport climbing in Pembroke

http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Pembroke+Rock%3A+1000+Selected+Rock+Climbs
In reply to routrax:

Hi Steve

There is also this Rockfax guide - https://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/pembroke-2009/ - which contains roughly the same routes in the popular areas and is also available in App format for iOS.

Alan
1
spenser - on 15 May 2017
In reply to routrax:

I'm not a massive fan of the definitive guides for Pembroke, there's a lifetime of great climbing in the selective guides, I was using the Wired guide last month and it was excellent, although the Rockfax guide was pretty good too (there are a few buttresses which are now in the sea that are listed in the Rockfax but other than that no issues), only reason I bought the wired guide was that my Rockfax got dropped in a rockpool by a friend a while ago and has somewhat fallen apart!
John2 - on 15 May 2017
In reply to spenser:

'there are a few buttresses which are now in the sea that are listed in the Rockfax'

Which ones?
Mr Tickle - on 15 May 2017
In reply to routrax:

I'm selling my Rockfax copy for £13 including p&p if your interested.
Graeme Hammond - on 15 May 2017
In reply to John2:

> 'there are a few buttresses which are now in the sea that are listed in the Rockfax'Which ones?

a large part of Square Bay collapsed in 2014

John2 - on 15 May 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Rosary and Foot and Mouth. Climbs, not buttresses.
routrax - on 15 May 2017
In reply to spenser:

Seems like the Wired one was published in 2016 and would be the most up to date, which might be handy if I want to climb stuff that's still standing.

Plus, I'm likely to be bringing a couple of friends on their first trad climb (they've climbed sport before though), so explaining that some of the routes have fallen down into the sea might be a bit off putting for them


routrax - on 15 May 2017
In reply to Mr Tickle:

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll go for the more recent Wired one, for reasons mentioned above!

If you are selling a recent eastern Grit guide i'd be interested, as I'm planning to try that this year
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spenser - on 15 May 2017
In reply to John2:

My mistake, I thought there was some significant rockfall at St Govan's a couple of years ago as well?
John2 - on 16 May 2017
In reply to spenser:

There have been two significant rockfalls at St Govan's, but both occurred before the current Rockfax was put together.
Stu McInnes - on 16 May 2017
In reply to John2:

Part of the left hand side (looking in) of initiation Slabs too, but that's not rockfaxes fault!
Stu McInnes - on 16 May 2017
In reply to routrax:

The cc wired guidebook would be perfect for the occasional visitor. The Rockfax one is nice but the grades are a bit off occasionally, not so much with the cc books...
the 5 volumes of definitive books are well work getting if you're spending more time here, especially in North Pembrokeshire.
GrahamD - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes:

I don't know if the wired guides follows the cc definitive grades, but if it does I'd say their grades err massively towards the overgraded.
Mike Highbury - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes:
> The cc wired guidebook would be perfect for the occasional visitor. The Rockfax one is nice but the grades are a bit off occasionally, not so much with the cc books... the 5 volumes of definitive books are well work getting if you're spending more time here, especially in North Pembrokeshire.

The lines in the RF guide can be a bit wonky. Test Case, for instance, who dreamt that up?
In reply to Mike Highbury:

> The lines in the RF guide can be a bit wonky. Test Case, for instance, who dreamt that up?

Me after climbing that exact line. It also seems that the person who did the CC Comprehensive guide climbed that line as well.

Alan
Graeme Hammond - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:
> Me after climbing that exact line. It also seems that the person who did the CC Comprehensive guide climbed that line as well.Alan

The CC (2011, p276) guide and Rockfax (2009, p 179) guides show slightly different lines so just out of interest where should Test Case go as it is on the "list" of stuff to do. The CC one shows climbing right to get beneath the groove much earlier than the Rockfax, then at the top of the groove going higher and exiting directly up via a thin crack rather than pulling right.


I'm sure in both guides have other errors and grades are subjective!
Post edited at 10:55
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

> The CC (2011, p276) guide and Rockfax (2009, p 179) guides show slightly different lines so just out of interest where should Test Case go as it is on the "list" of stuff to do. The CC one shows climbing right to get beneath the groove much earlier than the Rockfax, then at the top of the groove going higher and exiting directly up via a thin crack rather than pulling right.I'm sure in both guides have other errors and grades are subjective!

Ok, I see what you mean although I reckon the lower line is possible but might not be the right way. It certainly is 'much lower'. The top line I can't remember exactly now. I have a photo of Mark on the top slab taken from the same sequence as the one on page 178 and it looks like he could have taken either line to exit the groove.

I'll tweak the line in the app package.

If anyone has any other corrections to lines then please let us know.

Alan
Mike Highbury - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:
> Me after climbing that exact line. It also seems that the person who did the CC Comprehensive guide climbed that line as well.Alan

I haven't your guide to hand but route 2011 guide, no. 44, goes right lower than in RF, no?

Ah, this has been addressed by GH above.
Post edited at 11:19
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In reply to Mike Highbury:

Any more line corrections Mike?

Alan
Mike Highbury - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:
> Any more line corrections Mike?Alan

Can you send me the guide and I'll see?
Mx

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