/ Caerfai Crag, Pembrokeshire - stake warning

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Stu McInnes - on 16 May 2017
Recently the state of some of the !20 year old! stakes at some of the North Pembrokeshire crags have raised some concern. After some testing, both stakes above Caerfai (White Wall) failed easily under very low loads, as have some at Initiation Slabs (there is no belay above Aries). More may be in a similar condition...

Fixed gear on sea cliffs (and everywhere!) needs careful monitoring and judgement - and ideally backing up! The relevant parties are looking into a solution here.

Saddle Head warning too! There is a new ridiculously loose BIG block at the top steeper section of Sea Mist. It is hanging on but is completely detached, it will definitely fall near the belay ledge when it goes.

Stay safe out there folks and hopefully see everyone at the BMC Pembrokeshire Climbing Festival over the Bank Holiday weekend!

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spenser - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes:

Hi Stuart,
The stakes at the top of Sinecure apparently started to bend as soon as my backside got over the top of Carreg y Barcud at Easter (after the usual wobble test which I'd calibrated against Caerfai, evidently a mistake on that front!), I mentioned it to Elfyn Jones and he said he'd get them looked at when the opportunity arose.
Stu McInnes - on 16 May 2017
In reply to spenser:

The stakes at Sinecure can also be backed up with a red offset nut (sad that I know this sat at home...!)
But yes they are the older ones too! Lots out there!
spenser - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes:

By the point where we'd realised they needed backing up I don't think there was any appetite to involve them in any part of an anchor!
Mark Morris - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes: Is this a different large loose block on Sea Mist? There has been a block there that requires caution for a number of years. Looks great as you move up then you feel it rock and realise it won't make a great runner after all. It's fine to stand on though.

Stu McInnes - on 17 May 2017
In reply to Mark Morris:

Might be the same block, but it's very much ready to go... I've climbed the route regularly over the last 10 years and never noticed it before.
It's microwave sized, totally detached, just caught up on another loose bit at the bottom.
John2 - on 17 May 2017
In reply to Stu McInnes:

I had a look at Sea Mist this afternoon. The detached block does look alarming, but it's actually well wedged in - it didn't move when I jumped up and down on it and I couldn't induce any movement with a 60 cm crowbar.
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