/ top brand climbing shoe observation/comparison .

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discosucks - on 17 May 2017
Just a silly observation .

my shoe until now was the la sportiva katana , lovely shoe , severed me will but always felt it was badly constructed right out of the box , and it certainly didnt last as long as my pair before this ( saltic )

Iv just bought a pair of scarpa vapor v's . Out of the box there massive difference in first appearance in terms of build quality , it feels like they will last longer .

Now I now its all subjective to how much the shoe is used and how there treated but it just seems they are both high end expensive shoes, but one is much better constructed than the other .

Did anyone else notice anything of the like?
Wayne S - on 17 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

It's a bit of a non discussion point to forward project the quality of your new purchase? Katana's come in Velcro and lace, and are quite different shoes in terms other than just closure, this is true of most/ all Sportiva shoes, in as much as laced/Velcro versions even use different lasts and construction.

I have never owned the Velcro, but I am on my fith pair of laces and other than rubber wearing out, they are awsome, two pairs have been resoled, and these are now worn out again. But no issue at all with uppers even after 2 soles.

I do think some shoes look scruffy compared to others, but this is probably aesthetics over function.
Greasy Prusiks on 17 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

I haven't used the specific shoes you mention but I know what you mean about different brands making different qualities of shoes.

I've recently used a pair of £30 simond (decathlon own brand) shoes, some Boreal marduks C£80 and a pair of 5.10 pinks C£85. Interestingly the 5.10s have been very well made, the Simonds well made and the Boreals less so. Just goes to show that price isn't the same as quality.

*Out of interest I can confirm that the whilst the simonds are "beginner shoes" they can climb 6b tech!
Tom Shields on 17 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

I think it limited to the katana, every other La Sportiva shoe I've ever used or handled has felt amazing. I have some Otakis at the minute ant they feel bombproof.
mark s - on 17 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

id only use 5.10 shoes. anything else just didnt seem sticky enough
Robert Durran - on 17 May 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

> I can confirm that the whilst the simonds are "beginner shoes" they can climb 6b tech!

All on their own?

Greasy Prusiks on 17 May 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

Afraid not.

Rereading what I wrote it reads like a boast. I meant it as praise for the shoes that the hardest routes I've climbed have been wearing them. Apologies for being a t*t.
Robert Durran - on 17 May 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

> Afraid not. Rereading what I wrote it reads like a boast. I meant it as praise for the shoes that the hardest routes I've climbed have been wearing them. Apologies for being a t*t.

No worries. I didn't mean to have a go at you and I'm sure you climb well in them. But my point was meant to be that any footwear, even flip flops, could be used for 6b if the climber is good enough.
AlanLittle - on 17 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:
Katana velcros are a soft shoe and I certainly found they they were not suited to the (ahem) heavier climber. Otoh Jakob Schubert has proved it's possible to win world championships and redpoint 9b in them. I suppose he doesn't have to worry about how long they last though.
Post edited at 23:05
Greasy Prusiks on 17 May 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:
No worries, thanks. Yeah no doubt about that, it's all down to the climber. I think I remember seeing a video of Pete Whittaker climbing technical master one handed whilst wearing trainers.

EDIT: found it....

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/67899/london_wall_e5_in_trainers
Post edited at 23:09
douwe - on 18 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

Katana velcro are my go to shoe for bouldering and sport climbing. I have found they last me exactly as long as other brands did.
PaulW - on 18 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

Scarpa shoes in general seem "well made" for their particular position in the market, good quality stitching, solid construction.

This does come at a cost though, whether it is worth the compromise on other areas, perhaps research and development or rubber quality is a question for the user.

All manufacturers say that get the balance right.
Big Lee - on 18 May 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Katana velcros are a soft shoe and I certainly found they they were not suited to the (ahem) heavier climber.

Yeah I was 90kg when I used Katana Velcros. They lasted a couple of months before the tip of the soles started to unstick and the rand wear though. I'd mainly just bouldered in them and was starting to use them for routes too. Been a few posts on these forums from people with similar problems. I think the build is too soft for heavier or big footed climbers. I switched to TC-Pros, which use the same last but are much stiffer shoes. Much more normal wear and the best pair of shoes I've owned by a long margin -
although I'm often climbing granite cracks and edges, which is what they were intended for.
Thelittlesthobo - on 18 May 2017
In reply to discosucks:

My young daughter had the vapour v's a year or so ago. I know what you mean about them feeling quality but I think a lot of that is down to the lining. Arent they a little thicker on the lining than normal shoes and as such a bit more comfortable?

We have moved onto the booster S for technical climbing and the Tanaya Masai for general comfort. Been really impressed with both but the Tanaya seem to fit like a glove and tbh I wouldn't say now that the Scarpas are any better put together.

We have an unused voucher for any pair of EB shoes to use next so hoping they are of similar quality
ads.ukclimbing.com
cb294 - on 18 May 2017
In reply to Big Lee:

Katana velcros have always been my comfy shoes for long multi pitch routes (which ususally means not too much micro edging), and I weigh a bit above 100kg right now. I am on my fourth or fifth pair over the last 20 years or so, multiple resoles for each, but will not buy another one.

The quality has dropped markedly with the last pair I bought. The tape that holds the metal clip through which the velcro strap is threaded is so flimsy that it is rubs through after a single afternoon of crack climbing. I never had that problem with the previous pairs. I have over time replaced all tape bits with old backpack straps, which solves the problem, but that is not really acceptable for a shoe in that price range. I may give the Boreal ankle high boots a try once my current Katanas finally die.

CB

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