/ Glencoe Lodging and Climbing Recommendations

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Neil Rankin - on 18 May 2017
Hello all, my new wife and I will be traveling to Scotland in September for a belated Honeymoon. During our stay we will have about 4 or 5 days in Glencoe. I really know nothing of the climbing areas of lodging around there. Can anyone recommend any particular areas or lodging for the touristy climber? Thanks in advance! Cheers -Neil
Fergal - on 18 May 2017
In reply to Neil Rankin:
Clachaig inn for beer, lodging and good hearty food, quite often at weekends there is live music.

Climbing wise you are not giving much away? trad climbing will be anything from moderate scrambles, ie Curved ridge on Buchaille etive mor ( a must do) to harder classics like Freak out E4 ( sustained 5.11a) a great pump fest. There is some very good sport climbing on the Tunnel wall 7b and upwards and you may just miss midge season if you are lucky, hope this helps.
Post edited at 19:35
Neil Rankin - on 18 May 2017
In reply to Fergal:
Thanks and it's true. I didn't give enough information. I climb 5.11 trad regularly and redpoint 5.12 trad on good days. My wife climbs moderate but has fun following on anything up to 5.10/5.11. We also occasionally sport climb but it's not my favorite. I would consider doing a longer route one day if it was mellow for the wifey but would prefer to be cragging with moderate approaches of less than 30 minutes. Mostly looking for quality more than difficulty.
Post edited at 19:53
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Fergal - on 18 May 2017
In reply to Neil Rankin:
If you only want a thirty minute walk in you are pushing it, the east and west faces of Aonach Dubh have some excellent
up to three pitches eg. Lady Jane E2 5b (5.10 R), crocodile E3 6a (5.11a), Freak out E4 6a, yo yo E1 (5.10a), Trapeze E1 (5.10a), but to be honest 30mins probably only gets you to the East face, and it is up hill.

You could also consider Glen Nevis below the Ben (Fort William), lots to go at in that grade range and it is valley cragging.
PS, If you want a longer day of moderate climbing in the mountains, Agags groove Vdiff 5.4? is a must do on the Rannoch wall, very steep, but on big holds, a proper mountain day out.
Post edited at 20:30

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