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A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=663550
Richard Popp: Sounds like you have a really good approach to injury, the mental part of dealing with it is probably toughest.
Jen Jones: How was week 7?
guy127917: Keep progressing the hangs!
Ally Smith: Good for us mortals to see you take proper holidays from time to time
AlanLittle: Cool to hear you are trying to fit the hang board in- I find it so hard to get psyched and warmed up for morning sessions, but have been having the same problem of it compromising the actual climbing sessions quite a bit.
ad111: Good to hear you got around the course. Seems pretty reasonable to prioritise your dissertation right now. Stun us with your title….
hokkyo: Good to see your pace increasing- it is generally increasing outside of races as well? Have you got a gradual mileage increase planned or just taking it as you feel?
AJM: Hombre claims to be a stamina pitch- is that just a lie?
leeboy: Good to hear the benchmark is going in the right direction
biscuit: How did Summer League visit 1 go?
Just Tintin: Great Crack at Dukes Quarry looks fun- are you planning to go back for it?
The Fasting: Well done on getting the courses done- now the fun part
Dandan: Obviously had to look up the route Prison Sex- it just has the description “The shallow arete is completely desperate from start to finish”. Solid choice.
ianstevens: How did Cadair go?
the sheep: Oh come on, you must follow that up with pictures of the kittens please!
Spengler: Sounds like a solid week of training!
alx: Good luck, look forward to seeing the ticklist
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=663550
Richard Popp: Sounds like you have a really good approach to injury, the mental part of dealing with it is probably toughest.
Jen Jones: How was week 7?
guy127917: Keep progressing the hangs!
Ally Smith: Good for us mortals to see you take proper holidays from time to time
AlanLittle: Cool to hear you are trying to fit the hang board in- I find it so hard to get psyched and warmed up for morning sessions, but have been having the same problem of it compromising the actual climbing sessions quite a bit.
ad111: Good to hear you got around the course. Seems pretty reasonable to prioritise your dissertation right now. Stun us with your title….
hokkyo: Good to see your pace increasing- it is generally increasing outside of races as well? Have you got a gradual mileage increase planned or just taking it as you feel?
AJM: Hombre claims to be a stamina pitch- is that just a lie?
leeboy: Good to hear the benchmark is going in the right direction
biscuit: How did Summer League visit 1 go?
Just Tintin: Great Crack at Dukes Quarry looks fun- are you planning to go back for it?
The Fasting: Well done on getting the courses done- now the fun part
Dandan: Obviously had to look up the route Prison Sex- it just has the description “The shallow arete is completely desperate from start to finish”. Solid choice.
ianstevens: How did Cadair go?
the sheep: Oh come on, you must follow that up with pictures of the kittens please!
Spengler: Sounds like a solid week of training!
alx: Good luck, look forward to seeing the ticklist
4
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
My diss has the oh so fun working title of - How much capacity and generation would be available through repowering UK offshore wind farms. But the title is likely to change over the next few weeks.
M: Rest
T: Bouldering at Rokokallio tried the awesome Analstasia and didn't quite get it but manages a (soft) 7a. Definitely going back.
W: Rest
T: Indoor bouldering
F: Bouldering at Meilahti tried and failed at King of Dogs which is a cool line but managed a few others
S: Bouldering at Koivusaari
S: Bouldering at Mellunmäki which was a cool spot but I was feeling too tired for anything hard.
Hi Guy,
My diss has the oh so fun working title of - How much capacity and generation would be available through repowering UK offshore wind farms. But the title is likely to change over the next few weeks.
M: Rest
T: Bouldering at Rokokallio tried the awesome Analstasia and didn't quite get it but manages a (soft) 7a. Definitely going back.
W: Rest
T: Indoor bouldering
F: Bouldering at Meilahti tried and failed at King of Dogs which is a cool line but managed a few others
S: Bouldering at Koivusaari
S: Bouldering at Mellunmäki which was a cool spot but I was feeling too tired for anything hard.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Well, it's not got many rests, so in that sense yes I don't really know what the deal with it is, bit of a puzzler...
Nothing really this week. Struggling with cumulative tiredness and a cranky baby. Should have been out today but an early hours wakeful period put paid to that, wiped us out. Have caught up a bit in aggregate, I hope, but time will tell. Still hope to do some more this afternoon...
> AJM: Hombre claims to be a stamina pitch- is that just a lie?
Well, it's not got many rests, so in that sense yes I don't really know what the deal with it is, bit of a puzzler...
Nothing really this week. Struggling with cumulative tiredness and a cranky baby. Should have been out today but an early hours wakeful period put paid to that, wiped us out. Have caught up a bit in aggregate, I hope, but time will tell. Still hope to do some more this afternoon...
In reply to guy127917:
Friday: Found Trondheim's steepest trail (average incline about 28% IIRC), and did laps on it. Elevation gain 1170m, including walking there from my apartment I did about 17km in 4.5 hours. Which I think is very inefficient. Going to stick to stair climbing for conditioning from now on, it's easier to do and I get more time spent moving rather than logistics and transport.
Saturday: Went to Hell for the first time, and worked my way up the grades. Did Pompel (n4) and Pilt (n4), both graded n4 (f4b) but one of them I redpointed due to getting the lead fear again. Then I got over it and sent them, one of them onsight. That worked pretty well, but I spent a long time on each pitch just manning myself up to do some moves.
However, I tried Edderkopp (n4) which was graded the same in the guidebook before I moved on to a higher grade. Mainly I tried to work on my lead mentality, getting over the fear. I got up to the last bolt and the last move. I had to get over a lip and couldn't find any good holds on top of it and was too scared to commit in case I fell. Tried it 3 times, and then asked my partner if he could climb up and get my quickdraws.
I felt pretty bummed out about this until I read the guidebook just now. The variant I tried to climb could be (the route has two end variants), Edderkopp (Midtre variant) (n6+), graded n6+ (f6b I think), and would have been a massive lead PR since I haven't climbed anything over n4+ (f4c) outside on lead.
However, I'm unsure if I actually did that variation. Could be there are 3 variations, one left, one middle and one right. I really doubt I'd suddenly make such a massive stride.
Strategy going forward: Find a steep route and take lots of lead falls on it.
Friday: Found Trondheim's steepest trail (average incline about 28% IIRC), and did laps on it. Elevation gain 1170m, including walking there from my apartment I did about 17km in 4.5 hours. Which I think is very inefficient. Going to stick to stair climbing for conditioning from now on, it's easier to do and I get more time spent moving rather than logistics and transport.
Saturday: Went to Hell for the first time, and worked my way up the grades. Did Pompel (n4) and Pilt (n4), both graded n4 (f4b) but one of them I redpointed due to getting the lead fear again. Then I got over it and sent them, one of them onsight. That worked pretty well, but I spent a long time on each pitch just manning myself up to do some moves.
However, I tried Edderkopp (n4) which was graded the same in the guidebook before I moved on to a higher grade. Mainly I tried to work on my lead mentality, getting over the fear. I got up to the last bolt and the last move. I had to get over a lip and couldn't find any good holds on top of it and was too scared to commit in case I fell. Tried it 3 times, and then asked my partner if he could climb up and get my quickdraws.
I felt pretty bummed out about this until I read the guidebook just now. The variant I tried to climb could be (the route has two end variants), Edderkopp (Midtre variant) (n6+), graded n6+ (f6b I think), and would have been a massive lead PR since I haven't climbed anything over n4+ (f4c) outside on lead.
However, I'm unsure if I actually did that variation. Could be there are 3 variations, one left, one middle and one right. I really doubt I'd suddenly make such a massive stride.
Strategy going forward: Find a steep route and take lots of lead falls on it.
Post edited at 17:07
1
In reply to AJM:
Did a set of 1 on 1 off on my foot on campus board. It went, well, like you'd expect hard aerobic stuff to go when you've just been fingerboarding for the past ~5 months! Pumpy pumpy. New rungs (together with the pinches, although I'm still not sure what to make of those, near impossible to pinch at the angle they're at) felt good, wear the skin down a bit but no blood blisters and stuff like the old ones...
> Still hope to do some more this afternoon...
Did a set of 1 on 1 off on my foot on campus board. It went, well, like you'd expect hard aerobic stuff to go when you've just been fingerboarding for the past ~5 months! Pumpy pumpy. New rungs (together with the pinches, although I'm still not sure what to make of those, near impossible to pinch at the angle they're at) felt good, wear the skin down a bit but no blood blisters and stuff like the old ones...
1
In reply to guy127917:
I was psyched going into this week, but it didn't really go so great. I'm a bit ill, not enough for a really watertight excuse, but enough to put me off training.
Monday: Short hard bouldering session, finished one of the new routes on the wave at about 6C
Tuesday: Rest day
Wednesday: Max hangs- didnt go well, couldnt match previous session, 4x8mins on 8 off aerocap
Thursday: 5 mile run + TRX conditioning
Friday: Max hangs again, did manage to eek out improvement for the 9th week running, 1 hour of bouldering
Saturday: 11 lead routes 6a+/6b feeling a bit rough
Sunday: Rest
I finally put a tick list together for the Alberta section of our Canada trip, which means I'm mega psyched now. I should have done this earlier- I've been finding it hard to focus on the goal of this phase of training, it wasn't concrete enough. I'm a bit unsure of the YDS grading translation, so first section of the trip is going to be taking it easy smashing up long easyish multi pitch routes mixed with some single pitch sport cragging.
I was psyched going into this week, but it didn't really go so great. I'm a bit ill, not enough for a really watertight excuse, but enough to put me off training.
Monday: Short hard bouldering session, finished one of the new routes on the wave at about 6C
Tuesday: Rest day
Wednesday: Max hangs- didnt go well, couldnt match previous session, 4x8mins on 8 off aerocap
Thursday: 5 mile run + TRX conditioning
Friday: Max hangs again, did manage to eek out improvement for the 9th week running, 1 hour of bouldering
Saturday: 11 lead routes 6a+/6b feeling a bit rough
Sunday: Rest
I finally put a tick list together for the Alberta section of our Canada trip, which means I'm mega psyched now. I should have done this earlier- I've been finding it hard to focus on the goal of this phase of training, it wasn't concrete enough. I'm a bit unsure of the YDS grading translation, so first section of the trip is going to be taking it easy smashing up long easyish multi pitch routes mixed with some single pitch sport cragging.
2
In reply to guy127917:
STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Good weather finally after what has generally been a cold wet late spring over here. Family commitments meant I couldn't get out climbing, but at least I could dig the bike out of the cellar for outdoor movement of some kind. Should help with the weight a bit too.
M: Bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Both tired from travelling, very subdued session
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. 10 routes 5c to 6b+. Better.
T: Bike one and a half hours. Nice evening, rode the long way home from work.
F: Morning before work: max hangs alternating with kettlebell shoulder presses to pass the time between sets.
Rounded off with a set of 5 on, 5 off bodyweight repeaters on a small campus rung. Managed fifteen reps, two more than when I last benchmarked this six months ago. Progress is good.
S: Boulderwelt. Another lacklustre session, indoor boulder motivation & performance still flagging. Experimented with assisted reps (my son pushing a bit) on a horrible sloper start I've been trying for a couple of weeks. Interesting to see how fine the line is: he reckoned he was barely pushing at all, but still feels utterly impossible unassisted.
S: Mostly busy with family commitments; some stretching & shoulder mobility.
STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Good weather finally after what has generally been a cold wet late spring over here. Family commitments meant I couldn't get out climbing, but at least I could dig the bike out of the cellar for outdoor movement of some kind. Should help with the weight a bit too.
M: Bike one hour
T: Boulderwelt with my son. Both tired from travelling, very subdued session
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. 10 routes 5c to 6b+. Better.
T: Bike one and a half hours. Nice evening, rode the long way home from work.
F: Morning before work: max hangs alternating with kettlebell shoulder presses to pass the time between sets.
Rounded off with a set of 5 on, 5 off bodyweight repeaters on a small campus rung. Managed fifteen reps, two more than when I last benchmarked this six months ago. Progress is good.
S: Boulderwelt. Another lacklustre session, indoor boulder motivation & performance still flagging. Experimented with assisted reps (my son pushing a bit) on a horrible sloper start I've been trying for a couple of weeks. Interesting to see how fine the line is: he reckoned he was barely pushing at all, but still feels utterly impossible unassisted.
S: Mostly busy with family commitments; some stretching & shoulder mobility.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
Mon: Fingerboard training - I did this the other way around last week so starting with a few hangs on the big edge and then going straight into the one armed hangs. I managed to -7.5kg assistance on both arms straight (previously -11.25kg) and half lock (previously -15kg) and then down to -6.25kg straight left arm. Happy with the results.
Tues: Rest
Weds: Wave session. Trying to rainbow up to the top and work on the pink route. Improved a lot during the session and felt it in my fingers/arms for the next couple of days. Will do the same this week for my max moves. Did a fingerboard session at home and couldn't hold much after 2.5 hours on the wave. Possibly not a good order to do this session in ;p
Thurs: 5.9 mile run 9.35 min/mile. Rings workout.
Fri: Bouldering session - got pretty shut down by the pink circuit (V4-6) on the reset. Still recovering from Wednesday but managed to get a good session in.
Sat: Lead walls - 5 to 6b+ . Really fun session and good to get back on some routes. Got pretty tired and took a couple of small falls.
Sun: Rest
I think week 7 went pretty well. Was quite tired this week and low on energy so will aim to eat plenty of the right things this week and structure my sessions so I can complete them all. I'm going to do some autobelay/leading this week, a bit more on the wave, a couple of fingerboard sessions and hopefully get outside this weekend.
Hi Guy,
Mon: Fingerboard training - I did this the other way around last week so starting with a few hangs on the big edge and then going straight into the one armed hangs. I managed to -7.5kg assistance on both arms straight (previously -11.25kg) and half lock (previously -15kg) and then down to -6.25kg straight left arm. Happy with the results.
Tues: Rest
Weds: Wave session. Trying to rainbow up to the top and work on the pink route. Improved a lot during the session and felt it in my fingers/arms for the next couple of days. Will do the same this week for my max moves. Did a fingerboard session at home and couldn't hold much after 2.5 hours on the wave. Possibly not a good order to do this session in ;p
Thurs: 5.9 mile run 9.35 min/mile. Rings workout.
Fri: Bouldering session - got pretty shut down by the pink circuit (V4-6) on the reset. Still recovering from Wednesday but managed to get a good session in.
Sat: Lead walls - 5 to 6b+ . Really fun session and good to get back on some routes. Got pretty tired and took a couple of small falls.
Sun: Rest
I think week 7 went pretty well. Was quite tired this week and low on energy so will aim to eat plenty of the right things this week and structure my sessions so I can complete them all. I'm going to do some autobelay/leading this week, a bit more on the wave, a couple of fingerboard sessions and hopefully get outside this weekend.
2
In reply to TheFasting:
Mainly I tried to work on my lead mentality, getting over the fear. I got up to the last bolt and the last move. I had to get over a lip and couldn't find any good holds on top of it and was too scared to commit in case I fell.
Have you tried doing any fall practice? I haven't done any in a while but it does help if you do it often enough. What would have happened if you had fallen?
Mainly I tried to work on my lead mentality, getting over the fear. I got up to the last bolt and the last move. I had to get over a lip and couldn't find any good holds on top of it and was too scared to commit in case I fell.
Have you tried doing any fall practice? I haven't done any in a while but it does help if you do it often enough. What would have happened if you had fallen?
1
In reply to guy127917:
didn't post last week as we were already in Provence and I must admit I was rather enjoying not doing much at all online except occasionally check emails. The week had been a taper week anyway, so I think I did 1 routes session & 1 bouldering session, keeping them short but fairly hard (whilst also being careful not to injure anything!)
Last week in Provence was very good. It was a coaching week with my aim being to concentrate on onsighting. This meant no major high grade ticks of course.
S - intro day. Weather turned very hot, so anticipated 7a was not on. Tried a steep thuggy 7a+ but it was really sparsely bolted, to the point of dangerous. After a memorable fall low down my head wasn't in it.
M - shaded crag. Lots of routes including a 7a OS.
T - same shaded crag. 7a second go (tough crux). Tried a 7c and got 1/2 way up on the OS. Worked out the rest too but sun had come round so too hot and couldn't see for a second try.
W - rest day.
T - basically got on the wrong route at the wrong time - a long steep thuggy 7b+ which also traversed. Was strong enough for all the moves but not to put them together, plus it was virtually impossible to work as once one was off it was a nightmare to get back on. Used an excessive amount of energy getting very cross & frustrated.
F - 7a+ OS. My sort of route - flat wall fiddly, very small sharp holds, ultra techie. Dead chuffed to get it.
S - travel home
S - nothing except nurse sore fingers!
As it was a coaching course there was a fair amount of analysis & bugger all ego stroking. Main messages were that the onsights that I didn't get were mainly cos I made a duff decision as to what to do, but better that than not try at all & just shout take. And steep thuggy is a weakness, especially when the bolting isn't friendly. None of which came as a shock.
Really good thing was that my husband had a good time, enjoyed himself, seems to have got over a lot of his fears of rock & falling on rock, and did some routes I would have thought beyond him before this. Very positive indeed.
didn't post last week as we were already in Provence and I must admit I was rather enjoying not doing much at all online except occasionally check emails. The week had been a taper week anyway, so I think I did 1 routes session & 1 bouldering session, keeping them short but fairly hard (whilst also being careful not to injure anything!)
Last week in Provence was very good. It was a coaching week with my aim being to concentrate on onsighting. This meant no major high grade ticks of course.
S - intro day. Weather turned very hot, so anticipated 7a was not on. Tried a steep thuggy 7a+ but it was really sparsely bolted, to the point of dangerous. After a memorable fall low down my head wasn't in it.
M - shaded crag. Lots of routes including a 7a OS.
T - same shaded crag. 7a second go (tough crux). Tried a 7c and got 1/2 way up on the OS. Worked out the rest too but sun had come round so too hot and couldn't see for a second try.
W - rest day.
T - basically got on the wrong route at the wrong time - a long steep thuggy 7b+ which also traversed. Was strong enough for all the moves but not to put them together, plus it was virtually impossible to work as once one was off it was a nightmare to get back on. Used an excessive amount of energy getting very cross & frustrated.
F - 7a+ OS. My sort of route - flat wall fiddly, very small sharp holds, ultra techie. Dead chuffed to get it.
S - travel home
S - nothing except nurse sore fingers!
As it was a coaching course there was a fair amount of analysis & bugger all ego stroking. Main messages were that the onsights that I didn't get were mainly cos I made a duff decision as to what to do, but better that than not try at all & just shout take. And steep thuggy is a weakness, especially when the bolting isn't friendly. None of which came as a shock.
Really good thing was that my husband had a good time, enjoyed himself, seems to have got over a lot of his fears of rock & falling on rock, and did some routes I would have thought beyond him before this. Very positive indeed.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Sorry that I haven't posted for ages. I have been climbing, but have also been really busy with other things.
Sorry that I haven't posted for ages. I have been climbing, but have also been really busy with other things.
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, I have had loads of physical stuff to manage over the years, though not many climbing injuries until the last 9 months so have a fairly measured approach. One key thing is that generally speaking, and including rest as an action, you do need to act to address injuries etc.
So, shoulder improved, still painful but a combination of massage, stretching, theraband and time means that I can get my hand over my head, the bruising has gone and the pain is greatly reduced.
May try and get out Wednesday on some very easy stuff, though I am not quite sure what that might look like then hopefully build on that from there.
been for a couple of runs, though that not very comfortable and have cycled into Bristol twice, 19 miles.
Hopefully more to report next week.
Rich
Hi Guy, I have had loads of physical stuff to manage over the years, though not many climbing injuries until the last 9 months so have a fairly measured approach. One key thing is that generally speaking, and including rest as an action, you do need to act to address injuries etc.
So, shoulder improved, still painful but a combination of massage, stretching, theraband and time means that I can get my hand over my head, the bruising has gone and the pain is greatly reduced.
May try and get out Wednesday on some very easy stuff, though I am not quite sure what that might look like then hopefully build on that from there.
been for a couple of runs, though that not very comfortable and have cycled into Bristol twice, 19 miles.
Hopefully more to report next week.
Rich
Post edited at 10:37
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, kittens have settled in well and are also complete little buggers. Perfect
Pics can be seen here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150999986@N08/albums/72157681932552441/with/3...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150999986@N08/
Hopefully one of the links will work, not used Flickr before!
Anyway exercise wise the week went as follows;
Monday, 1km swim
Tuesday, 1km swim
Wednesday, 1km swim and 24km cycle
Thursday, 1km swim and 5k run
Friday, 1km swim
Saturday, rest day aka round a mates to watch the rugby semi finals and drink beer
Sunday, dusted off the road bike and went for a 55km ride around the countryside.
> the sheep: Oh come on, you must follow that up with pictures of the kittens please!
Cheers, kittens have settled in well and are also complete little buggers. Perfect
Pics can be seen here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150999986@N08/albums/72157681932552441/with/3...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150999986@N08/
Hopefully one of the links will work, not used Flickr before!
Anyway exercise wise the week went as follows;
Monday, 1km swim
Tuesday, 1km swim
Wednesday, 1km swim and 24km cycle
Thursday, 1km swim and 5k run
Friday, 1km swim
Saturday, rest day aka round a mates to watch the rugby semi finals and drink beer
Sunday, dusted off the road bike and went for a 55km ride around the countryside.
4
In reply to guy127917:
As always, thanks for compiling the stats.
While I;ve noticed an increase in pace in general, I have been picking up some PRs on various Strava segments - mainly hilly ones, but I've not really been pushing myself, apart from the races, because I wanted to avoid injury. This hasn't been planned at all. I was just interested to see if I could keep going. I'll have to stop at 70 days, because I'm off to Mongolia, and I'm not planning on running every day while I'm there!
m - 4k run
t - 3k run
w - 5.5k intervals
t - 7.5k trail run
f - 5k run with a hangover
s - Walk the Three Peaks of Yorkshire, 4.6k run
s - 8.5k run.
As always, thanks for compiling the stats.
> hokkyo: Good to see your pace increasing- it is generally increasing outside of races as well? Have you got a gradual mileage increase planned or just taking it as you feel?
While I;ve noticed an increase in pace in general, I have been picking up some PRs on various Strava segments - mainly hilly ones, but I've not really been pushing myself, apart from the races, because I wanted to avoid injury. This hasn't been planned at all. I was just interested to see if I could keep going. I'll have to stop at 70 days, because I'm off to Mongolia, and I'm not planning on running every day while I'm there!
m - 4k run
t - 3k run
w - 5.5k intervals
t - 7.5k trail run
f - 5k run with a hangover
s - Walk the Three Peaks of Yorkshire, 4.6k run
s - 8.5k run.
In reply to guy127917:
Yes, domestic bliss maintained by a civilian holiday! Throughly enjoyed it - slept lots (surprised myself with how knackered i was), ate lots, saw lots, walked lots...
Week 21
M - Nowt – holidaying in Seville
T - Nowt; Seville
W - Nowt; Cordoba
T - 15 miles walking in the Sierra Nevada
F - Nowt; Granada – tired legs
S - Fly home
S - Afternoon pottering at Newstones. Bottle Charlie’s Overhang without pads/spotters, but did a bunch of slopey bouldering and lost all my calluses. Getting back to 7A pain-free is my next goal in finger rehab.
Yes, domestic bliss maintained by a civilian holiday! Throughly enjoyed it - slept lots (surprised myself with how knackered i was), ate lots, saw lots, walked lots...
Week 21
M - Nowt – holidaying in Seville
T - Nowt; Seville
W - Nowt; Cordoba
T - 15 miles walking in the Sierra Nevada
F - Nowt; Granada – tired legs
S - Fly home
S - Afternoon pottering at Newstones. Bottle Charlie’s Overhang without pads/spotters, but did a bunch of slopey bouldering and lost all my calluses. Getting back to 7A pain-free is my next goal in finger rehab.
In reply to the sheep:
Aww - stupidly cute little things!
I remember when i got my two home for the first time - 7 years on and they're a LOT bigger now though!
Aww - stupidly cute little things!
I remember when i got my two home for the first time - 7 years on and they're a LOT bigger now though!
1
1
In reply to Jen Jones:
They are brother and sister from the same litter so are used to being curled up together
They also fight like demons too when the mood takes them....
They are brother and sister from the same litter so are used to being curled up together
They also fight like demons too when the mood takes them....
In reply to the sheep:
They're awesome, they look so soft and fluffy. I'm going to get some and NO ONE CAN STOP ME!
They're awesome, they look so soft and fluffy. I'm going to get some and NO ONE CAN STOP ME!
1
1
2
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
Bit of an odd visit really. I had a bit of a physical/emotional crash after final exams. I thought I'd be climbing that night but was just wiped out. I was still tired the next eve but went anyway as I was climbing/coaching with some of the squad. Did the 1st 20 problems all fine, just the hard ones to do on the next visits now. They look quite tough.
Got out at the weekend. Did an esoteric route at Tremadog. It was actually v good climbing but I think we'd have been better off abbing in. Weakness of open groove stemming/bridging was highlighted nicely as I gibbered my way up my pitch. The actual crux move was fine. After bushwhacking back out we called it a day.
Sunday went for my first visit to the slate. Got on Gadaffi Duck as a warm up and scared myself to death, but loved it. Did another couple of 6a and 6b sport routes and then did Looning the Tube and after my mate smashed Goose Creature I had a top rope of that. One to come back to later in the season I think. Not sure I'd have been totally happy on the initial run out to the bolts. I never felt like I was going to come off but it was quite a long way up.
This week i'll be back at the Depot at some point, possibly something on Wednesday, having a quick session on Friday at New Mills (not the best but take what I can) and then I've got the kids for a few days as it's half term.
Cheers Guy.
Bit of an odd visit really. I had a bit of a physical/emotional crash after final exams. I thought I'd be climbing that night but was just wiped out. I was still tired the next eve but went anyway as I was climbing/coaching with some of the squad. Did the 1st 20 problems all fine, just the hard ones to do on the next visits now. They look quite tough.
Got out at the weekend. Did an esoteric route at Tremadog. It was actually v good climbing but I think we'd have been better off abbing in. Weakness of open groove stemming/bridging was highlighted nicely as I gibbered my way up my pitch. The actual crux move was fine. After bushwhacking back out we called it a day.
Sunday went for my first visit to the slate. Got on Gadaffi Duck as a warm up and scared myself to death, but loved it. Did another couple of 6a and 6b sport routes and then did Looning the Tube and after my mate smashed Goose Creature I had a top rope of that. One to come back to later in the season I think. Not sure I'd have been totally happy on the initial run out to the bolts. I never felt like I was going to come off but it was quite a long way up.
This week i'll be back at the Depot at some point, possibly something on Wednesday, having a quick session on Friday at New Mills (not the best but take what I can) and then I've got the kids for a few days as it's half term.
In reply to guy127917:
Hehe, I actually know nothing about the route but a friend of mine did it last year and reckoned it was really good, so I stuck it on the list. I also want to explore the crag that it's on so it's a good excuse to get down there.
I had a pretty unremarkable week, it was a rest week so only 3 sessions and I did my best to actually rest instead of going climbing anyway and doing unstructured stuff. The upshot of that is that I felt super strong at the start of this current week, which is always nice.
M: Rest / followed a hip stretching yoga routine on youtube, I definitely looked like the 'before' shot in an advert for a flexibility program
T: Indoor Boulder; Recruitment sets: 7 reps of hard problem with 2.5min rest between reps. 3 sets, each on a different problem. This was a great session, got me really keen for trying hard again, I probably topped about 70% of reps in total which seemed a good level. It seems 2.5 min rest is enough for almost full recovery after a hard boulder as I wasn't always failing on the last rep of each problem.
W: Rest / followed a hip stretching routine on youtube, not yoga, more generic, pretty good but the guy was a bit annoying. I still don't bend.
T: Core
F: Rest
S: Fingerboard; got up to +48kg 2rm pull ups which still feel pretty comfortable, then +12.5kg 7/3 on AA slots. Dodgy finger stuck it out like a champ, no issues.
I've been working on developing my mono strength in preparation for Niña Mala (8b) using a technique suggested by Tom. Get a sling and hook it up to something overhead then hook the first digit of the finger into the sling and lean back, hold for 10. You can move your feet or change the length of the sling to make it easier or harder but it shouldn't be super hard, it's done as the latter part of your warm up.
The plan is that this gentle intro to mono pulling should help avoid injuries when you actually start trying to use it in anger, and it's certainly helping with recruitment, pulling on a single finger now feels distinctly less like something s about to snap in my forearm!
Anyway, I've been doing this for about 6 weeks now, and while having a little play on the beastmaker monos after my fingerboard session, I discovered I can now do a front lever on the deep monos! Very pleased with this as I'm pretty sure I couldn't even hang these before.
I also got my crux replica of Nina Mala built in the Bouldershed, I think I have the positioning about right but most of the holds are better than the ones on the actual route, once I can climb this version clean I will look at swapping out those holds to something harder which may require making a few more custom holds.
I've currently wedged the mono hold so it's at a shallower angle than on the actual route, once that feels comfortable I will take the wedge out to make it harder, again trying to ease into the whole mono thing without breaking myself.
S: Rest; I even went to Calshot and belayed Mrs Dandan without climbing, that's some self control right there!
In other news, Mrs Dandan is about to embark on her own Lattice Training plan, turns out she is the polar opposite to me, she already has 7c endurance but is really below par when it comes to strength! Be interesting to see how her plan differs from mine.
Last weeks STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) - TICK
* Don't do any unstructured climbing sessions this week - TICK
* Investigate putting together a full stretching session via youtube and google - TICK clean sweep!
STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) -
* Every session on the plan (9 sessions!) -
* Hang small monos on beastmaker
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> Dandan: Obviously had to look up the route Prison Sex- it just has the description “The shallow arete is completely desperate from start to finish”. Solid choice.
Hehe, I actually know nothing about the route but a friend of mine did it last year and reckoned it was really good, so I stuck it on the list. I also want to explore the crag that it's on so it's a good excuse to get down there.
I had a pretty unremarkable week, it was a rest week so only 3 sessions and I did my best to actually rest instead of going climbing anyway and doing unstructured stuff. The upshot of that is that I felt super strong at the start of this current week, which is always nice.
M: Rest / followed a hip stretching yoga routine on youtube, I definitely looked like the 'before' shot in an advert for a flexibility program
T: Indoor Boulder; Recruitment sets: 7 reps of hard problem with 2.5min rest between reps. 3 sets, each on a different problem. This was a great session, got me really keen for trying hard again, I probably topped about 70% of reps in total which seemed a good level. It seems 2.5 min rest is enough for almost full recovery after a hard boulder as I wasn't always failing on the last rep of each problem.
W: Rest / followed a hip stretching routine on youtube, not yoga, more generic, pretty good but the guy was a bit annoying. I still don't bend.
T: Core
F: Rest
S: Fingerboard; got up to +48kg 2rm pull ups which still feel pretty comfortable, then +12.5kg 7/3 on AA slots. Dodgy finger stuck it out like a champ, no issues.
I've been working on developing my mono strength in preparation for Niña Mala (8b) using a technique suggested by Tom. Get a sling and hook it up to something overhead then hook the first digit of the finger into the sling and lean back, hold for 10. You can move your feet or change the length of the sling to make it easier or harder but it shouldn't be super hard, it's done as the latter part of your warm up.
The plan is that this gentle intro to mono pulling should help avoid injuries when you actually start trying to use it in anger, and it's certainly helping with recruitment, pulling on a single finger now feels distinctly less like something s about to snap in my forearm!
Anyway, I've been doing this for about 6 weeks now, and while having a little play on the beastmaker monos after my fingerboard session, I discovered I can now do a front lever on the deep monos! Very pleased with this as I'm pretty sure I couldn't even hang these before.
I also got my crux replica of Nina Mala built in the Bouldershed, I think I have the positioning about right but most of the holds are better than the ones on the actual route, once I can climb this version clean I will look at swapping out those holds to something harder which may require making a few more custom holds.
I've currently wedged the mono hold so it's at a shallower angle than on the actual route, once that feels comfortable I will take the wedge out to make it harder, again trying to ease into the whole mono thing without breaking myself.
S: Rest; I even went to Calshot and belayed Mrs Dandan without climbing, that's some self control right there!
In other news, Mrs Dandan is about to embark on her own Lattice Training plan, turns out she is the polar opposite to me, she already has 7c endurance but is really below par when it comes to strength! Be interesting to see how her plan differs from mine.
Last weeks STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) - TICK
* Don't do any unstructured climbing sessions this week - TICK
* Investigate putting together a full stretching session via youtube and google - TICK clean sweep!
STG:
* Stretch hamstrings every session (I've been slack again) -
* Every session on the plan (9 sessions!) -
* Hang small monos on beastmaker
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c)
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
In reply to Dandan:
Thats interesting about the monos- will give it a go. Recently I've been warming up the fingers pre hang board with those physio elastic bands- hook it over a jug and do pull downs with single fingers. Different strength bands and elongation mean you can get a wide variety of resistance.
Thats interesting about the monos- will give it a go. Recently I've been warming up the fingers pre hang board with those physio elastic bands- hook it over a jug and do pull downs with single fingers. Different strength bands and elongation mean you can get a wide variety of resistance.
In reply to guy127917:
Sounds like pretty much the same thing, yeah. I suppose the only difference is that you are pulling down and I am static hanging with a straight arm, so arguably yours is more climbing specific.
My version works for me at the moment because the crux I'm training for doesn't require me to pull through the mono, I just have to hold it while I move my feet and then push out sideways to a good hold.
> Recently I've been warming up the fingers pre hang board with those physio elastic bands- hook it over a jug and do pull downs with single fingers. Different strength bands and elongation mean you can get a wide variety of resistance.
Sounds like pretty much the same thing, yeah. I suppose the only difference is that you are pulling down and I am static hanging with a straight arm, so arguably yours is more climbing specific.
My version works for me at the moment because the crux I'm training for doesn't require me to pull through the mono, I just have to hold it while I move my feet and then push out sideways to a good hold.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy
M - 18.5km run
T - Rest
W - 900 meter accent 15kg pack
T - 16km run
F - rest
S - 4x4 squats, 3x5 pull ups, 2 x 10 push ups
S - Some easy climbing up to HS in the morning. 900 meter accent 15 kg pack in the afternoon
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks guy
M - 18.5km run
T - Rest
W - 900 meter accent 15kg pack
T - 16km run
F - rest
S - 4x4 squats, 3x5 pull ups, 2 x 10 push ups
S - Some easy climbing up to HS in the morning. 900 meter accent 15 kg pack in the afternoon
Happy Training
Lee
In reply to biscuit:
Goose Creature is a funny one isn't it? Not really "E3", but somebody who only ever sport climbed wouldn't like the bit before the 6b+ sport climbing starts either. E1 5a with a bolted boulder problem in the middle.
Goose Creature is a funny one isn't it? Not really "E3", but somebody who only ever sport climbed wouldn't like the bit before the 6b+ sport climbing starts either. E1 5a with a bolted boulder problem in the middle.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Landed in South Africa. As we were waiting for our luggage, our small bouldering mat appeared on the carousel with someone else's small really knackered BD crash pad. Later in Hertz rental forecourt that same pad appears on the trolley pushed by a tired Nalle, who jumped in his tiny rental car, with his tiny mat and sped off. I swear the chap should get disability allowance for being short!
Landed in South Africa. As we were waiting for our luggage, our small bouldering mat appeared on the carousel with someone else's small really knackered BD crash pad. Later in Hertz rental forecourt that same pad appears on the trolley pushed by a tired Nalle, who jumped in his tiny rental car, with his tiny mat and sped off. I swear the chap should get disability allowance for being short!
2
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - S - Rest
Probably should stop posting really. Being very lazy at the moment. Felt rather ill/tired towards the end of the week. Will have to try and get down the wall some time next week. Maybe go for a run. The weather has been nice recently, so should make the most of it.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 9lbs
M - S - Rest
Probably should stop posting really. Being very lazy at the moment. Felt rather ill/tired towards the end of the week. Will have to try and get down the wall some time next week. Maybe go for a run. The weather has been nice recently, so should make the most of it.
In reply to guy127917:
A 2-week post for me, but nothing really to report for the first week.
Week 1: Nonstop rain, apart from the days when it snowed.
Cycle commute x3, indoor boulder session. Visited family all weekend so no climbing.
Week 2: The rain continues.
Cycle commute x4 days (damp), indoor bouldering session Tuesday. Very low energy and psyche.
Saturday: the rain finally stops but the humidity is nuts, I get talked into climbing on gneiss slabs and fail to get past the second bolt of anything
Sunday: better conditions and choice of crag, RP'd a n6- (lead dog, then TR, then lead clean). Very nervous the first time, very tense. Clipsticked past the trickier sections, and took some practice falls until I started to relax. When I lead clean it felt super easy. Then repeated the formula on a n7-, my first ever 7-! Unlike the 6- it didn't feel particularly easy after practice, but it was really ok.
Hopefully the weather has finally admitted that it is indeed late May and not late November now, and I can get some proper climbing done again.
A 2-week post for me, but nothing really to report for the first week.
Week 1: Nonstop rain, apart from the days when it snowed.
Cycle commute x3, indoor boulder session. Visited family all weekend so no climbing.
Week 2: The rain continues.
Cycle commute x4 days (damp), indoor bouldering session Tuesday. Very low energy and psyche.
Saturday: the rain finally stops but the humidity is nuts, I get talked into climbing on gneiss slabs and fail to get past the second bolt of anything
Sunday: better conditions and choice of crag, RP'd a n6- (lead dog, then TR, then lead clean). Very nervous the first time, very tense. Clipsticked past the trickier sections, and took some practice falls until I started to relax. When I lead clean it felt super easy. Then repeated the formula on a n7-, my first ever 7-! Unlike the 6- it didn't feel particularly easy after practice, but it was really ok.
Hopefully the weather has finally admitted that it is indeed late May and not late November now, and I can get some proper climbing done again.
In reply to biscuit:
I think that's very normal! After my finals we had big plans on going out and having a massive party night, what actually happened is I had a couple of pints at lunchtime then went home and got into bed, I think I was asleep about 4pm
> I had a bit of a physical/emotional crash after final exams.
I think that's very normal! After my finals we had big plans on going out and having a massive party night, what actually happened is I had a couple of pints at lunchtime then went home and got into bed, I think I was asleep about 4pm
2
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, cheers for the stats as always.
Cadair was good fun - it rained solid for 24 hours prior and then cleared up nicely just as everyone was lining up to start which got delayed by ~10 mins as they decided to kit check everyone, first time I've ever seen that happen! More below...
Mon:
Yoga 35 mins
Indoor bouldering "add a move", hard efforts
TRX reverse fly, wings and single arm row (12x4), 60 sec plank x 4, lat pull down 80kg 8x4
Tue:
Yoga 30 mins
Easy 10km run - HR zone 2.
Weds:
Core circuit from Training for the New Alpinism
Beastmaker 5A (4 reps x 1) and 5C (4 reps x 2)
10M TT on the bike, 27:07 but was held up by traffic. 44.7km (301m ascent) with warm up/ride home. Will aim for <27 min this week.
Thurs:
Yoga 60 mins
Easy run, 4km - HR Z2
Fri:
Nothing
Sat:
Cadair, and benchmark day for my hill running training this year. Started by going backwards from the off, picked up 5/10 places once the hill began proper (the first and last 4km is road from Dollgellau) and promptly lost 2 on the descent. Then evens to the end, finished 31st in 1:44 (17.5km, 900 ascent). Felt sluggish all day - plenty left in the legs but just no more gears to pick up the pace on the flatter sections, and was let down by my technique /willingness to fall over on the descent. This feeling on the day matches up when I compare my race with my usual competitors on Strava, who I was only ~2:00 and ~10 places behind. Finished feeling like I could do more running, which I figure is a good sign for the Glencoe Skyrace in Sept. Given some afterthought, I've decided adding a speed session (probably on the track) each week may be a good idea.
Sun:
Super easy day out at Tremadog dragging my GF out climbing (although she was far keener to go than me!). Note to self: remember two belay plates for such occasions, italian hitches all day is no fun at all. Did Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate (HS 4b) and Hail Bebe (VD).
Weight down to 69.8kg, back to its usual realm (69.5 - 70) so will try to maintain this for the summer.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Top 20 at Cadair Race - whoops, 31st.
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job (making progress here)
Get 10MTT down to 27:00
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km)
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Aims for this week are to rest up on the running and come up with a plan for the next block of training to peak mid-September and incorporate an Alps trip mid/late August. Could be tricky but I'm thinking of replacing the longer runs near the end of the block with alpinsim, which should be fine as both are long efforts at low pace. Secondly is to get involved in the Aberystwyth Cycle Fest, so there will be lots of time of the bike this week (see STGs). Unsure if my climbing STGs will get bothered as most of my usual partners have exams and my supervisors are coming down hard on me to get lab work done so can't bunk weekdays either. Need more hours in the week!
Hi Guy, cheers for the stats as always.
Cadair was good fun - it rained solid for 24 hours prior and then cleared up nicely just as everyone was lining up to start which got delayed by ~10 mins as they decided to kit check everyone, first time I've ever seen that happen! More below...
Mon:
Yoga 35 mins
Indoor bouldering "add a move", hard efforts
TRX reverse fly, wings and single arm row (12x4), 60 sec plank x 4, lat pull down 80kg 8x4
Tue:
Yoga 30 mins
Easy 10km run - HR zone 2.
Weds:
Core circuit from Training for the New Alpinism
Beastmaker 5A (4 reps x 1) and 5C (4 reps x 2)
10M TT on the bike, 27:07 but was held up by traffic. 44.7km (301m ascent) with warm up/ride home. Will aim for <27 min this week.
Thurs:
Yoga 60 mins
Easy run, 4km - HR Z2
Fri:
Nothing
Sat:
Cadair, and benchmark day for my hill running training this year. Started by going backwards from the off, picked up 5/10 places once the hill began proper (the first and last 4km is road from Dollgellau) and promptly lost 2 on the descent. Then evens to the end, finished 31st in 1:44 (17.5km, 900 ascent). Felt sluggish all day - plenty left in the legs but just no more gears to pick up the pace on the flatter sections, and was let down by my technique /willingness to fall over on the descent. This feeling on the day matches up when I compare my race with my usual competitors on Strava, who I was only ~2:00 and ~10 places behind. Finished feeling like I could do more running, which I figure is a good sign for the Glencoe Skyrace in Sept. Given some afterthought, I've decided adding a speed session (probably on the track) each week may be a good idea.
Sun:
Super easy day out at Tremadog dragging my GF out climbing (although she was far keener to go than me!). Note to self: remember two belay plates for such occasions, italian hitches all day is no fun at all. Did Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate (HS 4b) and Hail Bebe (VD).
Weight down to 69.8kg, back to its usual realm (69.5 - 70) so will try to maintain this for the summer.
STG (end of May):
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Top 20 at Cadair Race - whoops, 31st.
Non training related but could have an impact - find a job (making progress here)
Get 10MTT down to 27:00
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km)
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Aims for this week are to rest up on the running and come up with a plan for the next block of training to peak mid-September and incorporate an Alps trip mid/late August. Could be tricky but I'm thinking of replacing the longer runs near the end of the block with alpinsim, which should be fine as both are long efforts at low pace. Secondly is to get involved in the Aberystwyth Cycle Fest, so there will be lots of time of the bike this week (see STGs). Unsure if my climbing STGs will get bothered as most of my usual partners have exams and my supervisors are coming down hard on me to get lab work done so can't bunk weekdays either. Need more hours in the week!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I've no idea, when it's in condition and when I can manage it I guess, all advice gratefully received of course!
Being married and having a dog means completely free weekends are few and far between and get booked up fast but I'd like to fit it in.
Can you get there reasonably quickly from Sheffield or is it a bit of a trek, as I have friends there I could stay with...
I've no idea, when it's in condition and when I can manage it I guess, all advice gratefully received of course!
Being married and having a dog means completely free weekends are few and far between and get booked up fast but I'd like to fit it in.
Can you get there reasonably quickly from Sheffield or is it a bit of a trek, as I have friends there I could stay with...
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - hope the dropbox worked? Another week of failing to get on Great Crack, but some unfinished business at Curbar and finally decided I was hard enough to do the VS 4c that everyone struggles with...
M-T conditioning, fingerboard and not really any climbing
F - looked at Great Crack on way up and it was (unsurprisingly too wet) so went to do some bouldering at Wirksworth instead to V5.
S - Curbar bouldering as only had a 3-hour window before serious rain came through. Finally got Strawberries (f6B), which is indeed relatively straightforward when you know how.
S - Had decided I had to go and do The File (VS 4c) as part of my crack list before Squamish, so rocked up and smashed that out first thing. Strong and compelling line - again one I had read too much about on UKC so had to wait until I felt comfortable on E2 to attempt it, but really enjoyed it in an odd way. The Eastern Grit Top 50 is going down much faster these days! Ben had a nightmare seconding me, lost all his skin and declared he had given up climbing. We retreated over to Apparent North for some bouldering. In the evening conditions were lovely and would definitely have got Great Crack in if I hadn't broken my climbing partner earlier in the day!
Leave for Canada tomorrow. Realistically we'll have 3 days on rock if we're lucky with weather. Only there for 5 days and have to spend lots of time taking ferries and going to wedding rehearsal dinner as well as the actual wedding.
Thanks Guy - hope the dropbox worked? Another week of failing to get on Great Crack, but some unfinished business at Curbar and finally decided I was hard enough to do the VS 4c that everyone struggles with...
M-T conditioning, fingerboard and not really any climbing
F - looked at Great Crack on way up and it was (unsurprisingly too wet) so went to do some bouldering at Wirksworth instead to V5.
S - Curbar bouldering as only had a 3-hour window before serious rain came through. Finally got Strawberries (f6B), which is indeed relatively straightforward when you know how.
S - Had decided I had to go and do The File (VS 4c) as part of my crack list before Squamish, so rocked up and smashed that out first thing. Strong and compelling line - again one I had read too much about on UKC so had to wait until I felt comfortable on E2 to attempt it, but really enjoyed it in an odd way. The Eastern Grit Top 50 is going down much faster these days! Ben had a nightmare seconding me, lost all his skin and declared he had given up climbing. We retreated over to Apparent North for some bouldering. In the evening conditions were lovely and would definitely have got Great Crack in if I hadn't broken my climbing partner earlier in the day!
Leave for Canada tomorrow. Realistically we'll have 3 days on rock if we're lucky with weather. Only there for 5 days and have to spend lots of time taking ferries and going to wedding rehearsal dinner as well as the actual wedding.
Post edited at 15:28
In reply to AlanLittle:
6b+ sport climbing???
The first rockover was hard (but very doable once you commit) but smearing for the triangular niche off the thinnest crimps I've used in a long time was bloody hard. Unless I've just not got the slate nack yet.
Not sure on the grade, but it's a great route and the bolting of an otherwise unprotectable crux makes it a popular one. Win win!
6b+ sport climbing???
The first rockover was hard (but very doable once you commit) but smearing for the triangular niche off the thinnest crimps I've used in a long time was bloody hard. Unless I've just not got the slate nack yet.
Not sure on the grade, but it's a great route and the bolting of an otherwise unprotectable crux makes it a popular one. Win win!
In reply to biscuit:
I'm with Alan, it's not harder than 6b+. If you pop up to the triangular niche *beta alert* /massive jug from the left foot smear its easy.
> 6b+ sport climbing??? The first rockover was hard (but very doable once you commit) but smearing for the triangular niche off the thinnest crimps I've used in a long time was bloody hard. Unless I've just not got the slate nack yet. Not sure on the grade, but it's a great route and the bolting of an otherwise unprotectable crux makes it a popular one. Win win!
I'm with Alan, it's not harder than 6b+. If you pop up to the triangular niche *beta alert* /massive jug from the left foot smear its easy.
Post edited at 08:31
In reply to ianstevens:
That's what I was doing
Obviously smeary slabs not my strong point. I think the fact that I'm confident I'll lead it next time I'm there probably says it's not E3
That's what I was doing
Obviously smeary slabs not my strong point. I think the fact that I'm confident I'll lead it next time I'm there probably says it's not E3
In reply to Dandan:
Kilnsey is bone dry at the moment - best it's been for ages - multiple ascents of True North in the last month - one of the worst routes for seepage.
Sheffield to Kilnsey is a bit of a slog - 2 hours-ish; might not be worth the detour to that side of the country if coming from way down south?
Dogs are regularly seen at the crag and no one objects if they are well behaved (no sandwich stealing/sheep worrying/rabbit chasing perspectives!)
There are multiple <7a routes too - better than Malham for easier warm-ups IMHO
Kilnsey is bone dry at the moment - best it's been for ages - multiple ascents of True North in the last month - one of the worst routes for seepage.
Sheffield to Kilnsey is a bit of a slog - 2 hours-ish; might not be worth the detour to that side of the country if coming from way down south?
Dogs are regularly seen at the crag and no one objects if they are well behaved (no sandwich stealing/sheep worrying/rabbit chasing perspectives!)
There are multiple <7a routes too - better than Malham for easier warm-ups IMHO
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
It sounds fantastic, perhaps I can find some local accommodation to make it worth while. So it will be in condition through until the Autumn? Is it shaded?
The problem with bringing the dog is that her full name is Mavis Stealer Of Sandwiches and Chaser Of Rabbits, she's been a bit of a disappointment as far as our hopes for her becoming a crag dog, she whinges if we put her on a lead and disappears if we don't. Even if we go to Portland we tend to leave her with the In-laws.
It sounds fantastic, perhaps I can find some local accommodation to make it worth while. So it will be in condition through until the Autumn? Is it shaded?
The problem with bringing the dog is that her full name is Mavis Stealer Of Sandwiches and Chaser Of Rabbits, she's been a bit of a disappointment as far as our hopes for her becoming a crag dog, she whinges if we put her on a lead and disappears if we don't. Even if we go to Portland we tend to leave her with the In-laws.
In reply to Dandan:
In condition - depends on seepage but some stuff probably would be ok September/October in an average year? Very dependent though.
Shade from about 12.
Do The Ashes (7c+). Your sort of grade for a quick tick these days and really very good.
In condition - depends on seepage but some stuff probably would be ok September/October in an average year? Very dependent though.
Shade from about 12.
Do The Ashes (7c+). Your sort of grade for a quick tick these days and really very good.
1
In reply to Dandan:
I agree with AJMs recommendation for the Ashes; Comedy (7c) would suit you too
There's a good doss spot up the valley from Kilnsey for car camping, or the campsite at Malham is passable too.
Conditions tend to be pretty stable on everything apart from North Buttress & Mandela once the crag is dry. Keep an eye on the malham & kilnsey partners/conditions facebook group to see if it craps out after a heavy period of rain.
hms is due a visit too - we could make a party of it? Weekends 10th & 17th June i'm free
I agree with AJMs recommendation for the Ashes; Comedy (7c) would suit you too
There's a good doss spot up the valley from Kilnsey for car camping, or the campsite at Malham is passable too.
Conditions tend to be pretty stable on everything apart from North Buttress & Mandela once the crag is dry. Keep an eye on the malham & kilnsey partners/conditions facebook group to see if it craps out after a heavy period of rain.
hms is due a visit too - we could make a party of it? Weekends 10th & 17th June i'm free
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'll mail you.
Went to New Quarry last night. Shall we say that conditions were not ideal!!
I'll mail you.
Went to New Quarry last night. Shall we say that conditions were not ideal!!
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Interesting, I think we are free on the 17th weekend but i'll have to enquire with Mrs Dandan, the keeper of the diary. It's always good to visit a new crag with someone who knows the place.
Interesting, I think we are free on the 17th weekend but i'll have to enquire with Mrs Dandan, the keeper of the diary. It's always good to visit a new crag with someone who knows the place.
In reply to AJM:
Kilnsey is often readily climbable until October - last year was pretty poor for conditions but my last personally significant route there was logged 25 September. Unless you are fixated on certain very seepy routes, such as The Bulge and the usual suspects on North Buttress (Full Tilt / True North, The Thumb, Urgent Action), there is usually plenty to go at in autumn. Many good routes at the south end, such as The Ashes, Comedy, Man With a Gun are very resistant to seepage. The main problem for me in autumn is not wetness but cold - being in the shade and a north wind doesn't suit my Reynauds fingers.
> In condition - depends on seepage but some stuff probably would be ok September/October in an average year? Very dependent though. Shade from about 12.Do The Ashes (7c+). Your sort of grade for a quick tick these days and really very good.
Kilnsey is often readily climbable until October - last year was pretty poor for conditions but my last personally significant route there was logged 25 September. Unless you are fixated on certain very seepy routes, such as The Bulge and the usual suspects on North Buttress (Full Tilt / True North, The Thumb, Urgent Action), there is usually plenty to go at in autumn. Many good routes at the south end, such as The Ashes, Comedy, Man With a Gun are very resistant to seepage. The main problem for me in autumn is not wetness but cold - being in the shade and a north wind doesn't suit my Reynauds fingers.
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