UKC

Climbing at Brimham today we did Vamoose (Diff), and found that the top block on the right hand side of the chimney (facing the rock) is slightly loose and rocks a bit - as this is a huge block and it is a busy area this is rather concerning.

Has anyone noticed this before? If it's a concern, where can it be reported (other than here)?

In reply to Neil Williams:

The NT might be interested to safeguard the public

In reply to Neil Williams:

Do you mean the whole top tier of the crag?

In reply to Offwidth:
Basically, yes. We didn't believe it at first!

The top block on the right hand side of the picture here. My belayer (at the top) noticed it when I braced against it to do the last move. And I saw it as well (and did the move very quickly as a result!)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=66722#photos

In reply to Neil Williams:

It looks pretty massive and like it is just sat on top of the cliff so unlikely to go anywhere.


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

That was kind of our thought, but we also thought it worth asking here to see if those who know the route might think otherwise.

In reply to Neil Williams:

There's a block at Caley about that size that rocks. You still climb over it to do the route. It's so big that a climber is highly unlikely to pull it off unless they have Superman strength levels.

In reply to Kid Spatula:
Similar huge block on top of Great Buttress Arete at Wharncliffe. It gives me great pleasure not to mention it to would be suitors and watch them sh1t themselves when they pull over...

In reply to Removed User:

That GB one bit me... undercut jam underneath and reached over the top and pulled...ouch! My cam (unknowingly probably useless protection wise) may have saved my hand being a bit crushed.

The problem with Vamoose is more warning climbers so they don't wobble when standing on top and risk falling off... its a scramble to get up there (the back of the chimney) so you don't see so many tourists on top.

In reply to Offwidth:

I nearly pitched off the top off Stanage because of a wobbly block once. Robin Hood Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish, stood on top and got tipped over just enough to fully shit myself.

In reply to Offwidth:

yes, it's dangerous in terms of protection moving too. Disconcerting to lean against.

In reply to pog100:
Cheers all for your views.

I've submitted an edit for the guidebook entry on UKC with a warning note about the wobbly block, I'll leave it up to the crag moderator if he sees it as appropriate to include or whether he wishes to reword, as I would just want to give a safety warning without it being actual beta!

In reply to climbwhenready:

I think one should be very careful suggesting things like that to the National Trust or other landowners as the resulting action can be drastic. Once things have been officially pointed out there can be a perception that something must be done.

The removal of a block in Ilkley Quarry by the council led to a significant worsening of conditions on a few routes.

In reply to Brown:

yes: if they feel something must be done: given it is an SSSI, the safest thing would be to stop people getting up on top of the rocks. If this one is only accessible to "climbers" not "joe public" there's an easy answer...
A note in guides might be a better option, as a warning?

In reply to Neil Williams:

Not sure where the route is but if it's the van sized block 20-30m right of Lovers' Leap it's been like that for decades. Really spooky when you walk out along it and the floor slowly sickeningly tilts out toward the void!
jk

In reply to jkarran:

No, not there, it's at Zebra Buttress. I suspect most likely it too has been like that for years, though.

In reply to ceri:
Yeah as I said I've submitted an edit of the UKC guidebook entry, though it's up to the mod whether it is included or not, it is sort-of a bit like beta.

To get to it from the main tourist bit requires two slightly scary (but not difficult) long steps, so I can't see tourists ending up on top of it, least of all kids who would have to jump.

In reply to Neil Williams:


You've not met my kids...

In reply to Neil Williams:

Stick a couple of wooden wedges under it to stop it wobbling.

In reply to Toerag:

..if I lived anywhere near it

In reply to Toerag:

Stick a couple of rocks underneath?