UKC

I've put together a ticklist of Jim Birkett first ascents. I hope people will enjoy the ticklist and help me to finish creating it - as it's not quite complete.

Here it is: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2005

So far, I've only climbed North-west Arete and Leopard's Crawl. Has anyone done them all?

I remember Bill Birkett describes following Jim's routes as a kind of education in quality routes on good rock; and I remember Dave Birkett also says somewhere that he started out by following his grandfather's routes. So, it seems to me a good challenge - or apprenticeship? - to follow in Jim Birkett's footsteps.

The list appeals to me personally as the routes are all in the Lakes (as far as I know), which is my local and well-loved haunting ground. I'm also just starting to be able to lead VS - E1 routes, so they're accessible in that respect too.

Unfortunately, I don't have area guides for all of the Lakes, and some routes may even have been trimmed. So, if anyone can suggest (fairly authoritatively!) other routes to add, that would be very much appreciated!

Thanks and enjoy!

In reply to C Witter:

p.s. I know that Overhanging Bastion and maybe May Day Cracks are possibly unclimbable now, due to rock instability - so, if you've done them all, you might be part of a select few.

In reply to C Witter:

Have done a few, its a great list. You definitely need to get yourself to White Ghyll and do all the nots.

In reply to Mike-W-99:

Yes - that's a priority on the list! Starting with White Ghyll Wall and Slip Knot, I think. Laugh Not (Joe Brown??) also looks very good. I'm quite keen for 'F Route', too, but it looks very strenuous!

In reply to C Witter:
Please can you add Inaccessible Gully (V 5) I know its not rock climb but its a superb route when in condition and went unnoticed for years and another impressive ascent from Jim.
Plus it might make the full tick list a bit harder for some : )

In reply to petegunn:

Hi Pete,

I certainly can - but, how do you now it was Jim Birkett's FA? The only info I can find (albeit, with a quick search) suggests that Gilpin Ward and C. R. Wilson did the first ascent (see: http://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Vol12-2.pdf ). I will happily be corrected, but please let me know the source.

Whilst searching, I did find some other routes to add, so thanks!
CW

In reply to C Witter:

May Day is OK. I personally would not climb OB again after what I saw last weekend.
DC

In reply to C Witter:

Its now accredited to Jim Birkett in the Lakes winter guide

" c.1940 An ascent which went unnoticed for many years thanks to Jim Birketts famously reticent habit when discussing his activities."

In reply to petegunn:

Ta Pete!

In reply to C Witter:


F Route is quite a pussycat, really. With even standard VS leader footwork it's quite steady. And the gear is good.

In reply to Rog Wilko: agree about f route. It's a while since I did it but have never been more than a VS punter with the occasional harder route, and recall enjoying it, good rock, good gear.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Well, that's that then - I'll have a crack next time I'm at Gimmer! Thanks for the encouragement.

In reply to C Witter:

Jim did quite a bit of activity on Scafell, his best are May Day Climb and Slab and Groove. MDC is nails, a hard first pitch which gives a very good indication on the standard Jim achieved back in 1938. SaG is a classic, but a bit out of the way. Another superb route which is always overlooked is the original girdle of the East Buttress, which is HVS. He also added Gremlin's Groove, which is OK, but please avoid his routes Steep Gill Grooves and South Chimney, or else you'll never return to Scafell!
See Bill Birkett's book on lakeland's greatest pioneers which has a full list of Jim's routes. You may find it in a library or seek it out on the secondhand market.
All the best.
Al

In reply to C Witter:

Without checking in the guidebook, I think he did quite a few routes in Buttermere - eagle front, and one on Honister (forgot the name!)

In reply to Andy Hardy:

that was Bill Peascod

In reply to C Witter:

Many thanks.

Does anyone know if there's a "Menlove Edwards" ticklist anywhere?

In reply to Phizzers:

I always found Slab & Groove a hard one...a great ascent for its time I think, and a massively underrated climb now

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Thanks, that'll learn me.

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Is there a Peascod tick list?

In reply to Rog Wilko:


Editing Al's post gives an answer

See Bill Birkett's book on lakeland's greatest pioneers which has a full list of Bill Peascod's routes. You may find it in a library or seek it out on the secondhand market.

In reply to Phizzers:
Thanks for pointing out this book - just ordered a copy off Abebooks. Can't see how I missed it when it came out.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

What did you see last weekend Dave?!

In reply to C Witter:

You won't thank me for this, but:
The Tarsus, HS, Dove Crag. Not fully described in the current guide.
The Gossard, VS, Castle Rock of Triermain. A girdle traverse - not even mentioned in the current guide.
You'll find both these in the 1959 Eastern Crags guide.

Also Flying Buttress, VS, Castle Rock of Triermain - in the current guide.

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:
Why won't I thank you - are they 'orrible routes? Ta for the additions - will add them in when I get a moment.

In reply to C Witter:


I suspect so!

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:

Continued movement, falling away of loose blocks, fragmentation, widening of all cracks.
DC

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

Actually, just saw Dave earlier today and he said that the crack at the top of North Crag Eliminate, just below the pasture at the top of the crag, where one used to belay on a birch tree and a Friend 2.5, is now wide enough for him to stick his leg in. The birch fell out quite some time ago. This perhaps gives a better illustration of the rock movement that has taken place.