UKC

Anyone know the current state of this. Logbooks only show it being done last August and I hvent been there for 3 years. Was hoping to show a friend around there this weekend. Just looking for a heads up on the crack that's developing.
Thanks

In reply to Owen:

Give needlesports a ring

In reply to Owen:

There is crack, it may fall down. It has not yet. What can anyone add to that.

In reply to J1234:

How bad the crack is, how much it has changed in recent months, whether anything loose is coming down, whether it has been climbed at all in recent months.
It's 7.30 am, Don't you have anything better to do than add inane replies.

In reply to John Kelly:

Thanks, good idea. I'll do that.

Owen

In reply to http://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Castle-Rock-Crack.-May-15-...

In reply to Owen:

I wouldn't go anywhere near it personally but then I've learned my lesson, I missed being pulped under a crag collapse by a few hours having been rather blase about geological time despite obvious and worsening warning signs.
jk

In reply to MG:

Looking at that i wouldn't fancy being on any part of it !

In reply to Owen:

There are widening cracks and loose blocks, some of which have fallen, some others yet to fall, but they are above the yew at the top of the crag. The gangway is OK, but the top of the route is dangerous, and there are some blocky areas above the gangway that could potentially be affected by rockfall. I personally would not go near it based on what I have seen and the movement that is being measured.
DC

In reply to MG:

To put those images into perspective, it is now possible to climb into the opening crack at the top. The gauge has completely separated its two parts. If anyone goes to look - please don't touch the gauge as we have 6 continuous years of measurement.
DC

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

How hard it the last bit on Ecstasy, could that provide an alternative finish the OB when the rockfall finally happens?

In reply to Removed User:

Ecstasy, Eliminator and Agony direct would be OK but think Ecstasy could be in firing line. Is it 5b/c, the whole area is bold and tends to have loose flakey holds?
Real shame some of these great routes are going to disappear.
DC

In reply to Owen:

Not sure that I'd enjoy climbing something that is likely to fall fairly soon. Why put yourself through it?

In reply to Phil1919:


Well, if you think what you weigh compared to the mass of rock involved, as long as you didn't do it after a big freeze or lots of rain you'd probably be OK*. In a purely statistical way. As long as you didn't put a big cam in the wrong place and then fall on it.

Doing the very last ascent of a doomed classic would be an interesting footnote in the logbook. Not completing the ascent on account of being underneath it when it goes doesn't count.

* Discussion of such an ascent in an obviously light-hearted and ironic way should not be interpreted as encouragement. Rock climbing carries a risk of death, especially this sort.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

With respect, just to re-iterate historic comments, frost and rain are not influences on this crack. The crack is dry, and it is below the frost action (which starts on Helvellyn well above 2000 feet).
The three influences on this crack are 1. The natural movement and whatever is causing it, 2. Local minor earthquakes which are relatively common along Thirlmere/High Rigg/Glenderaterra, 3. The drying and shrinkage that takes place at times like this (typically March to June).
Shrinkage and aridity has been a factor in a number of Lake District rockfalls over the years e.g. Buttermere tragedy of Cockermouth Mountain Rescue Team accident in 1969.
DC

In reply to Owen:
Your question cannot be answered, this is a subjective risk and is your call, non of the information you will glean here will enable your decsion to climb it or not anymore objective.

In reply to J1234:


His question was about how the crack was developing, which can be answered - its getting bigger!

In reply to Dave Cumberland:


Sorry, I wasn't being serious or claiming to have any detailed knowledge of the local factors here.

Actually, I did Deer Bield Buttress very soon after the top pitch fell down and that must have been in summer after a spell of good weather, so I should have known better.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

I guess DBB was the biggest piece of rock to come down in contemporary times!

In reply to Owen:

Is an upgrade to E10 5a *** in order?

In reply to Dave Cumberland:


Yes. How much of it remains? Did it come down in two events? I've just looked up my old diary and I did it 8 May 1984. I recall doing the horrible awkward crack at the bottom, then the first steep crux pitch and then up a right angle groove that just kind of stopped at a big sharp jug with a big drop one side and a very fresh loose slab smelling of brimstone up on the left. As far as I could make out this was pretty much the stance before the final 5b pitch, which was conspicuous by its absence!

In reply to Owen:

Thanks all for your input. It appears it has gotten significantly worse since my last foray. I have climbed it a bunch in the past and there are plenty of classics to introduce my mate to that don't have the aforementioned objective danger to contend with. Shame.

Hey ho


Owen

In reply to J1234:

My question could be answered and was. I wasn't asking for someone to make the decision for me, simply to find out what was happening with the crack. I'm perfectly adept at risk assessment.
You get back to your armchair.

In reply to Dave Garnett:


https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/20701/deer_bield_crack_re-climbed