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Extreme Alpinism

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 J Whittaker 27 May 2017
I was just wondering on my long night shifts spent watching videos of alpine climbing, (errrr I mean working hard), what constitutes extreme alpinism?

Obviously things like the main routes up Mont Blanc are not now, but when it was first climbed it would have been extreme.

Eiger Nordwand, the essence of extreme alpinism in the 30's with many attempts before the first successful ascent by Heckmair and co. Is this still extreme alpinism?

Or can extreme alpinism only be those at the cutting edge, pushing the current boundaries i.e. the project Ueli Steck was to attempt on Lhotse and Everest?
Lusk 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

Extreme appears to be breaking speed records these days.
 summo 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

TD or harder, under guidebook time?
 GridNorth 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

IMO "Extreme Alpinism" is more to do with attitude and approach than grade. If you decided to climb Mont Blanc by the Gouter route in shorts and a T shirt with very little gear it could be considered extreme.

Al
1
 Rob Parsons 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

There's no official definition - and there never will be. And - for my part - who cares?: unless you're trying to make money (or a living) out of it, all this is a purely personal matter.

However, if want to find out, then - without knowing what your own experiences are - you could try solo alpine climbing at your technical limits. If you get away with it, I can guarantee you'll come away with powerful memories.

(The usual disclaimers apply.)
Post edited at 21:12
OP J Whittaker 27 May 2017
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Rob, I was just asking out of curiosity really. Not from some position of wanting to go off on an extreme alpinism project of my own.

I was just interested to know what people think defines 'extreme' in the world of alpine climbing these days as there are a lot of people who are capable of climbing in the ED grades, just as lots of trad climbers can climb mid E grades but only a select few are operating in the really high ones.
 Robert Durran 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

Any route graded ED1 or above?
 jcw 27 May 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:
As always, commitment.
Post edited at 23:31

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