UKC

Have Petzl fixed the wear issue with the Reverso 4? If you are using one have you seen the sharpening/burring issues experienced by the earlier models?

Anyone using the DMM Pivot or Black Diamond ATC Guide seen similar wear issues?

Based purely on the wear issues which would you choose? Reverso 4, DMM Pivot or BD ATC?

Having used a Petzl Reverso 3 due to the wear on the device after very minor use I am looking
to replace it. I know I can probably rub it down with some fine emery cloth but to be honest
I am so annoyed with the wear on it after such a short time it’s going.

In reply to starbug:

My BD ATC Guide has lasted years. I prefer it over the Pivot due to the orientation of the carabiner hole but that can be surmounted if need be.

In reply to starbug:

I use a reverso 4, i assume you're referring to the burrs where the device touches the belay carabiner? I noticed this after maybe a month of use, removed the burrs with a sharp knife, and have had no issues since then. That must've been two years ago. I wouldn't worry about it.

In reply to JRJones:

Yep exactly that across the top where the belay carabiner hits the device.

"I know I can probably rub it down with some fine emery cloth but to be honest
I am so annoyed with the wear on it after such a short time it’s going."

The above was my thought on the Reverso 3 from your comment is sounds like the 4 is the same
and from the comment on the BD above it looks like it doesn't happen with the ATC.

I expect some maintenace when using my kit but for me the Reverso 3 is not durable and from your comments
neither I suspect is the 4.

In reply to starbug:

My reverso has worn in exactly the same way. I keep meaning to remove the burrs with a file but if people can confirm that ATC guides don't suffer from this issue I might be persuaded to get one of those instead once the reverso is worn out.

R

In reply to starbug:

If you climb (and particularly abseil) a lot none of the modern belay plates last very long before they wear sharp.

Over the last few years I've used Reverso 3 and 4, ATC guide, Pivot and VC Guide. They've all worn sharp after moderate use. The ATC Guide probably wears the slowest, but it is marginally heavier.

HTH

In reply to starbug:

Fair enough. Personally I've found that after i removed the burr once it's not happened again. My guess is that the BD guide is the most durable. Looks like it's got a bit more material where it meets the biner.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

You could always go for belay devices made from steel, like most from Edelrid. Most are half automatic belay devices, so not exactly the same.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

I am pretty sure a trip the Cogne was the Reversos downfall, so yes a fair bit of belaying
and abseiling. It was new before the trip used for another 6/8 day trips in the UK since.

Thanks for the responses gents. I'll chalk it up as a consumable and take a punt on the BD
and see how that goes.

In the unlikely event I keep the Reverso I can always take a butter knife to it if required.

cheers

In reply to starbug:

Thanks for posting this, I had the same question recently after wearing out another Reverso 3. I'm looking for alternatives, and the BD seems like the best gamble. My Reverso 2 lasted significantly longer than the 3.

In reply to tjin:

The edlrid ones give you another issue though, where they're so durable that they carve grooves in whatever biner you're using with them.

In reply to starbug:

The combo of meltwater and grit you can often get on your ropes when icefall climbing makes an almost perfect abrasive fluid. I've seen aluminium carabiners deeply worn after minimal use in such conditions, and I imagine you'll get similar wear on a belay device. A stainless steel device might be better but personally I've yet to use one I got on with, perhaps worth a try if you don't get a better result with the heavier BD device?

In reply to JRJones:

I've been using this megajul loads https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6739 and still can't work out why so many dislike it. Not got ant scratches on the belay krab and work on a great abbing and belaying for me.

In reply to TobyA:

One of my partners uses one and does have small chunks missing from his belay biner. Might depend what biner you're using it with.
I wouldn't say i dislike it. It seems to work fine, and i think it's probably the best of the double rope assisted locking doodads. Personally i find all of them a bit grabby however.

In reply to JRJones:

Maybe the BIONIC ALPINE BELAY is better, as it's not a semi-automatic and more of a traditional ATC guide/reverse like device. Also steel on the wear bits.

In reply to starbug:

After reading this I thought I'd check my Reverso, think it's a 4. Several years heavy-ish use and there are some markings on the plate but no sharp burrs or the like as mentioned by others.

Is it belaying styles, amount of falls held or rock types climbed on (grit in ropes) that might account for differences?

In reply to starbug:

Interestingly I've had my current Reverso 3 for six years (replacing another Reverso that my partner dropped from a belay ledge) with no wear problems and no need to file any sharp burrs.

In reply to Stopsy:


Interesting isn't it? I wonder how much it is perception too - some people's "dangerously worn" could be my "you can see it's not brand new, but... meh." I think people's assessments of risk can be very different. How long do you trust the sewn dyneema slings on things like cams or rockcentrics for example? 10 years if they haven't been used much? 15 years? Or 3 years?

In reply to tjin:

I've not seen that before, looks good. I'm pretty happy with the reverso for now though.

As to why some people have burrs on the reverso, my guess is that it largely relates to belay style, rather than rock type or which biner you're using. If your belay plate is impacting the biner hard when you lock off then i guess it'll deform where it hits. If you're in the habit of locking off more gently then that might not happen?

In reply to JRJones:

I think in my case it may be a combination of ice climbing coupled with style. Also it may be something to do with usage during guide mode when ice climbing as the Wild Country device I have used for a number of years but never in guide mode is showing no such wear. I can see some of the wear being a result of the hammer action of the carabiner on taking in for example.

As has been said above by TobyA some people's "dangerously worn" could be your "you can see it's not brand new, but... meh." and people's assessments of risk can be very different. I fully accept I can take some emery paper or a
file to it and happily carry on using it. I had considered this and relegating it to winter use.

I am largely just hacked off at the wear and tear in such a short time and originally posted to see what peoples experiences where.