UKC

Hi
I'm looking for a bit of guidance..

Has anyone done any climbing in thailand? I've bought the Kings Thailand climbing guide but any beta on the best crags or areas would be appreciated. Mostly looking at sport climbing to keep my baggage allowance down.

Thanks!

Tom

In reply to tomthetraddad:

Plenty of similar posts over the last year or so. have a search through the forums. When are you going, it is now hot and rainy in Tonsai until November ish. I was there in 2012 and have heard that it has been ruined a bit/ even more. all the close easy to get to crags will be were polished but go exploring and the further off the beaten track you get the less polish. I had a great time there though good beer and food (did not get sick and ate everywhere maybe I was lucky) It is more of a chilled holiday rather than a hard core climbing holiday. Embrace the polish and the heat and enjoy. The lion king 6c is a cracking route.

Saying that I have heard that Chang mai and the crazy horse buttress is much better for climbing.

In reply to tomthetraddad:

Chang Mai is superb for climbing, it's not as cool a place as Tonsai, (it's Thailand's second biggest city and about an hour drive each way) I was there in January, weather was mixed, but good enough. Combined it with a trip to Loa, also worthwhile.

In reply to tomthetraddad:

I've heard that there is some next level polish in Thailand on almost every bolted crag, with 1ft around each hold being glass as fook.. been told it's not worth it!

In reply to tomthetraddad:

I was in Tonsai, Ko Phi Phi and crazy horse.

Tonsai is a lovely spot but all you've heard about the polish is true. Its insanely polished on anything 6B or below. The place is great though and I still really enjoyed it. I was there in June and yes it is very hot, humid and sweaty. I wouldnt worry much about the rain as it lashes rain for a bit and then dries up quicker. Its not like its raining all day or theres hurricanses

Ko phi phi has limited climbing and the place is a tourist hell. Didn't like it much

Crazy horse is a much more climeable crag with lots of routes but a very different experience. There are some local places to stay I think but most people stay in Chiang Mai which is about an hour and 20 minutes away from the crag. the city itself is a city like a lot of others, not like the beach/jungle stuff you get in tonsai so it depends on what your into.

I would recomend though if you are going there to look into the bus service operated out of the Chiang Mai climbing shop. I did it on a scooter and would prefer free soloing a E8 on a rainy day with my eyes closed than ever face rush hour in chiang mai on a scooter again.