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I'm looking to lead my first E1 onsight this summer and in need of route recommendations. My regular climbing partners have been climbing in the low to mid Extremes for a long time and have plenty of suggestions but I'd be interested to hear from people who have climbed their first E1 relatively recently...
I prefer technical face climbing to hauling myself over a roof, so something with good rests and gear, and nothing overly steep.
Anything in Pembroke, Cornwall, Devon or North Wales. Thanks in advance!
I prefer technical face climbing to hauling myself over a roof, so something with good rests and gear, and nothing overly steep.
Anything in Pembroke, Cornwall, Devon or North Wales. Thanks in advance!
In reply to Climbandwine:
My experience of E1's in Pembroke is that they can be quite hard! Off the top of my head, a nice one to start with might be Manzoku (E1 5b). If you are in N. Pembroke, Sinecure (E1 5b) is fantastic and fits your description.
Good luck with whatever you choose!
My experience of E1's in Pembroke is that they can be quite hard! Off the top of my head, a nice one to start with might be Manzoku (E1 5b). If you are in N. Pembroke, Sinecure (E1 5b) is fantastic and fits your description.
Good luck with whatever you choose!
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In reply to james.slater:
Manzoku is an incredibly sustained route with a blind crux move. The Arrow would be a far easier first E1.
Manzoku is an incredibly sustained route with a blind crux move. The Arrow would be a far easier first E1.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Breaking the barrier, holyhead mountain isnt too taxing with both gear and rests when required.
Ps i think manzoku is easier then the Arrow but its been a long while since ive done either.
Breaking the barrier, holyhead mountain isnt too taxing with both gear and rests when required.
Ps i think manzoku is easier then the Arrow but its been a long while since ive done either.
Post edited at 10:31
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Did a trip to Pembroke just recently and bagged my first e number this year. Defo recommend No match for climb id:263099, thin slab climbing with spaced but safe gear. You'll need some micro nuts, but you can sit and contemplate the crux all day (or until your feet start to hurt...)
Did a trip to Pembroke just recently and bagged my first e number this year. Defo recommend No match for climb id:263099, thin slab climbing with spaced but safe gear. You'll need some micro nuts, but you can sit and contemplate the crux all day (or until your feet start to hurt...)
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In reply to John2:
Fair enough, I personally found it to be mildly sustained but with no real crux, and lots of positive, often large holds. Thought that might be a good option.
The Arrow is possibly one of my favourite E1's, so good, but I personally found it harder than Manzoku, maybe it was too hot!
Fair enough, I personally found it to be mildly sustained but with no real crux, and lots of positive, often large holds. Thought that might be a good option.
The Arrow is possibly one of my favourite E1's, so good, but I personally found it harder than Manzoku, maybe it was too hot!
In reply to Climbandwine:
Surprised that Manzoku has been recommended and yet its easier neighbour Cool for Cats has gone unmentioned. It has good gear and hands off rests and is popular choice for breaking into the grade (at least in my club). If you like face climbing Lucky Strike and Sealhunt would fit the bill although opinions will certainly differ as to whether those are good choices to break into the grade (Lucky Strike was about my 4th E1 and it didn't feel too bad and I had Sealhunt recommended to me when I was breaking into the grade, again didn't feel this was too bad for the grade) so maybe aspire to those when you're going well.
Surprised that Manzoku has been recommended and yet its easier neighbour Cool for Cats has gone unmentioned. It has good gear and hands off rests and is popular choice for breaking into the grade (at least in my club). If you like face climbing Lucky Strike and Sealhunt would fit the bill although opinions will certainly differ as to whether those are good choices to break into the grade (Lucky Strike was about my 4th E1 and it didn't feel too bad and I had Sealhunt recommended to me when I was breaking into the grade, again didn't feel this was too bad for the grade) so maybe aspire to those when you're going well.
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In reply to poeter210:
I just mentioned it because its one that I've done. Cool for cats looks equally as amazing, but dont want to recommend routes i have no personal experience of!
I just mentioned it because its one that I've done. Cool for cats looks equally as amazing, but dont want to recommend routes i have no personal experience of!
In reply to Climbandwine:
Breaking the Barrier
Seams the Same
If you're use to longer routes why not Cemetery Gates?
Let us know how you get on!
Breaking the Barrier
Seams the Same
If you're use to longer routes why not Cemetery Gates?
Let us know how you get on!
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In reply to poeter210:
This would be the Lucky Strike that is sometimes graded E2, has fiddly small-wire protection, and which would be difficult to retreat off if you couldn't do it?
> If you like face climbing Lucky Strike and Sealhunt would fit the bill although opinions will certainly differ as to whether those are good choices to break into the grade ...
This would be the Lucky Strike that is sometimes graded E2, has fiddly small-wire protection, and which would be difficult to retreat off if you couldn't do it?
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In reply to Climbandwine:
The Arrow has a tricky start from a high ledge with poor gear. A fair few people have come off it.
The Arrow has a tricky start from a high ledge with poor gear. A fair few people have come off it.
Post edited at 14:17
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In reply to poeter210:
I'm not so sure about Sealhunt - there are far easier E1s in Pembroke. How about Whispering Wind at St Govans East?
I'm not so sure about Sealhunt - there are far easier E1s in Pembroke. How about Whispering Wind at St Govans East?
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In reply to John2:
Sealhunt is deffo not an easy E1. Comments about the Arrow are right, wait to get it in good conditions and get some gear in before you commit off the ledge and you're fine.
Sincecure as mentioned is pretty soft. In the new CC guides there are some upgraded HVSs, such as Tactician E1 5a at St Govans, and whichever one at Mowing word gets E1 in the guide (Snozwanger or Blowin' in the wind; think it depends on whether you look in a rockfax or CC guide).
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Sealhunt is deffo not an easy E1. Comments about the Arrow are right, wait to get it in good conditions and get some gear in before you commit off the ledge and you're fine.
Sincecure as mentioned is pretty soft. In the new CC guides there are some upgraded HVSs, such as Tactician E1 5a at St Govans, and whichever one at Mowing word gets E1 in the guide (Snozwanger or Blowin' in the wind; think it depends on whether you look in a rockfax or CC guide).
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Both of the two I did were slabs. Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b) is a really good first E1 - short tricky cruxes followed by good rests. The gear is good, although you need to have enough smaller wires. However there is a very small roof at the end (4c?), with a good rest right before.
Bad to the Bone (E1 5b) at Fairy Cave, while slightly out of your way - is also a really good first E1. The crux is short and after a good rest, and with good gear too.
Both of the two I did were slabs. Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b) is a really good first E1 - short tricky cruxes followed by good rests. The gear is good, although you need to have enough smaller wires. However there is a very small roof at the end (4c?), with a good rest right before.
Bad to the Bone (E1 5b) at Fairy Cave, while slightly out of your way - is also a really good first E1. The crux is short and after a good rest, and with good gear too.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) wold fit the bill, good gear and low in the grade and one of the best pieces of rock in the country plus you can wach the vid of Don and Joe reliving there youth to inspire you.
Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) wold fit the bill, good gear and low in the grade and one of the best pieces of rock in the country plus you can wach the vid of Don and Joe reliving there youth to inspire you.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
The Arrow was my first e1 in Pembroke. After the start which needs your attention but nothing overly difficult. Gives brilliant climbing. Gear when ever u need it. And a choice of finish. I went right the first time. But direct is so much better and not much harder.
Cool for cats is class, the crux was a bit harder for me than manzoku but no way as strenuous.
All 3 are amazing.
Luke.
The Arrow was my first e1 in Pembroke. After the start which needs your attention but nothing overly difficult. Gives brilliant climbing. Gear when ever u need it. And a choice of finish. I went right the first time. But direct is so much better and not much harder.
Cool for cats is class, the crux was a bit harder for me than manzoku but no way as strenuous.
All 3 are amazing.
Luke.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
Bad to the Bone is a sound recommendation, for a limestone quarry Fairy Cave is really quite good.
Another recommendation would be the top pitch of The Link/The Chain (E1 5b), it was my first E1, slabby climbing up a crack with a crux move off a fingerlock with good gear level with your feet.
Bad to the Bone is a sound recommendation, for a limestone quarry Fairy Cave is really quite good.
Another recommendation would be the top pitch of The Link/The Chain (E1 5b), it was my first E1, slabby climbing up a crack with a crux move off a fingerlock with good gear level with your feet.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
The Plum (E1 5b) might suit you. There are spots to rest where you need them.
T.
The Plum (E1 5b) might suit you. There are spots to rest where you need them.
T.
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In reply to james.slater:
Mine is the opposite. South pembroke has a hatful of quality E1s which, for the modern wall-trained climber, are all pretty soft. Careful you try the ones that are genuinely soft touch E1s though (e.g. The Arrow, Calisto, Cool for Cats, Rock Idol, B-team Buttress) and not the ones that were previously soft touch E2s (Lucky Strike, The Straight Gate).
> My experience of E1's in Pembroke is that they can be quite hard!
Mine is the opposite. South pembroke has a hatful of quality E1s which, for the modern wall-trained climber, are all pretty soft. Careful you try the ones that are genuinely soft touch E1s though (e.g. The Arrow, Calisto, Cool for Cats, Rock Idol, B-team Buttress) and not the ones that were previously soft touch E2s (Lucky Strike, The Straight Gate).
Post edited at 21:43
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In reply to John2:
I think I fell off Manzoku (when I was fairly solid at E2), and blew a 'bomber' placement on the way down. Exciting times. I agree it's tricky for E1.
Ninja Edit: I tell a lie. I just looked in my logbook and saw that I blew a placement on Dire Straits E2. My logbook notes for Manzoku are "Disappointed with this as the line wasn't strong enough - then again I think perhaps I might have gone the wrong way low down.". So I still think I found it hard.
I think I fell off Manzoku (when I was fairly solid at E2), and blew a 'bomber' placement on the way down. Exciting times. I agree it's tricky for E1.
Ninja Edit: I tell a lie. I just looked in my logbook and saw that I blew a placement on Dire Straits E2. My logbook notes for Manzoku are "Disappointed with this as the line wasn't strong enough - then again I think perhaps I might have gone the wrong way low down.". So I still think I found it hard.
Post edited at 21:46
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In reply to Alun:
Well Dire Straits was possibly undergraded at E2, so don't feel bad about that.
Well Dire Straits was possibly undergraded at E2, so don't feel bad about that.
Post edited at 21:50
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Agree, great rests. Would be a fantastic first E1 but would be very testing indeed - four different types of cruxes.
My first E1, back in 1974, was First Slip, with food poisoning - threw up at the bottom, fainted at the top. Not a good choice.
Mick
> The Plum (E1 5b) might suit you. There are spots to rest where you need them.T.
Agree, great rests. Would be a fantastic first E1 but would be very testing indeed - four different types of cruxes.
My first E1, back in 1974, was First Slip, with food poisoning - threw up at the bottom, fainted at the top. Not a good choice.
Mick
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Also at Fairy Cave Smell the Glove (E1 5b) is a solid E1 slab, hard at the beginning but there's a micro wire, then good climbing to the top.
Also at Fairy Cave Smell the Glove (E1 5b) is a solid E1 slab, hard at the beginning but there's a micro wire, then good climbing to the top.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
My first E1, admittedly a long time ago was The Great Beast at Baggy Point. I think it was a bit of a soft touch so perhaps its been downgraded. Great name for your first E1 though I thought. A lot easier then say The Arrow, above, which would be one of my best however.
My first E1, admittedly a long time ago was The Great Beast at Baggy Point. I think it was a bit of a soft touch so perhaps its been downgraded. Great name for your first E1 though I thought. A lot easier then say The Arrow, above, which would be one of my best however.
Post edited at 22:17
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Dinas Mot - The Nose Superdirect.
Perfect as you can rest almost anywhere. Best, really one of the best! Especially on a hot summer day.
My first E1 that I can remember and will not forget.
Dinas Mot - The Nose Superdirect.
Perfect as you can rest almost anywhere. Best, really one of the best! Especially on a hot summer day.
My first E1 that I can remember and will not forget.
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I had a complete pantomime on this a few years ago. Subsequent guidebook scanning suggests I attempted a direct start which was described otherwise in a different guide (by the same author!)
> The Plum (E1 5b) might suit you. There are spots to rest where you need them.T.
I had a complete pantomime on this a few years ago. Subsequent guidebook scanning suggests I attempted a direct start which was described otherwise in a different guide (by the same author!)
In reply to Climbandwine:
My first E1 way back was Sinecure and having reclimbed it recently I would thouroughly recomend it. The Arrow is a good call as well IMO provided you treat the bouldery start with respect and put gear in.
These are genuine low ish in the grade E1s and superb routes. Ignore anyone who is suggesting down graded E2s or really undergraded E1s (what's the point in that if you really want to climb E1 ?)
My first E1 way back was Sinecure and having reclimbed it recently I would thouroughly recomend it. The Arrow is a good call as well IMO provided you treat the bouldery start with respect and put gear in.
These are genuine low ish in the grade E1s and superb routes. Ignore anyone who is suggesting down graded E2s or really undergraded E1s (what's the point in that if you really want to climb E1 ?)
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In reply to John2:
Really? I thought it was a bit soft.
> Manzoku is an incredibly sustained route with a blind crux move. The Arrow would be a far easier first E1.
Really? I thought it was a bit soft.
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In reply to gg4419:
Doesn't really tick the "technical face climbing" the OP implies they want.
To the OP: take a look at Fool's Gold (E1 5c), Seams the Same (E1 5b) or Gnat Attack (E1 5c). The quarries are the place to get into E1 if you like technical stuff IMO. Whatever you do, don't claim looning the tube as your first E1 - its HVS! Could be a good point to start though as a warm up.
> Rock idol?
Doesn't really tick the "technical face climbing" the OP implies they want.
To the OP: take a look at Fool's Gold (E1 5c), Seams the Same (E1 5b) or Gnat Attack (E1 5c). The quarries are the place to get into E1 if you like technical stuff IMO. Whatever you do, don't claim looning the tube as your first E1 - its HVS! Could be a good point to start though as a warm up.
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In reply to Pilo:
This felt quite serious to me when I did it, possibly due to the chap I was climbing with having used 5 (of my then limited rack of cams) to build a rubbish belay underneath a hollow flake rather than belaying on the ledge like any sensible person would do! That said it's an utterly ace route and I led it as my third E1, if you're not keen on steep get someone else to deal with the top pitch.
This felt quite serious to me when I did it, possibly due to the chap I was climbing with having used 5 (of my then limited rack of cams) to build a rubbish belay underneath a hollow flake rather than belaying on the ledge like any sensible person would do! That said it's an utterly ace route and I led it as my third E1, if you're not keen on steep get someone else to deal with the top pitch.
In reply to Climbandwine:
Sirplum was my first E1 but I wouldn't neccessarily recommend it as a first! Pick something inspiring that you really want to do no some small, soft nonentity.
Sirplum was my first E1 but I wouldn't neccessarily recommend it as a first! Pick something inspiring that you really want to do no some small, soft nonentity.
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In reply to ianstevens:
I've done Manzoku a few times. Its harder than the Arrow definately.
> Really? I thought it was a bit soft.
I've done Manzoku a few times. Its harder than the Arrow definately.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
North Wales low end E1s
Super Direct Dinas mot
The Plum Tremadog
Grim Wall direct Tremadog
all v good routes at the grade you are after. Enjoy
North Wales low end E1s
Super Direct Dinas mot
The Plum Tremadog
Grim Wall direct Tremadog
all v good routes at the grade you are after. Enjoy
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In reply to Climbandwine:
In between Wales and north Devon ... I would really recommend limbo in Avon. Lovely bit of technical wall climbing. Protected by bomber threads and wires so you can fall if you want. But the climbing isn't that hard and there's a rest before and after the crux. On good quality natural limestone and climbing under the suspension bridge which is atmospheric
Also, possibly beyond the azimuth in Pembroke? Steady and safe, slab e1
I thought manzuko or whatever it is in Pembroke was nails hard. But I hate sustained climbing
Aviation at Haytor is good but it's also HVS ...
In between Wales and north Devon ... I would really recommend limbo in Avon. Lovely bit of technical wall climbing. Protected by bomber threads and wires so you can fall if you want. But the climbing isn't that hard and there's a rest before and after the crux. On good quality natural limestone and climbing under the suspension bridge which is atmospheric
Also, possibly beyond the azimuth in Pembroke? Steady and safe, slab e1
I thought manzuko or whatever it is in Pembroke was nails hard. But I hate sustained climbing
Aviation at Haytor is good but it's also HVS ...
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Thank you all so much for your recommendations, especially as some of these I haven't seconded yet either. Whichever one I end up on, you've provided a great list of future climbs to get excited about (as long as all goes well and I don't get scared off!).
Happy climbing all
Thank you all so much for your recommendations, especially as some of these I haven't seconded yet either. Whichever one I end up on, you've provided a great list of future climbs to get excited about (as long as all goes well and I don't get scared off!).
Happy climbing all
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In reply to Pursued by a bear:
The only problem I'd have with the Plum as a first E1 is its a bloody long pitch to do in one go and if you pitch it it always fels like you haven't got the full tick (unless you lead all pitches, I guess, but normally I'd be swapping leads)
> The Plum (E1 5b) might suit you. There are spots to rest where you need them.T.
The only problem I'd have with the Plum as a first E1 is its a bloody long pitch to do in one go and if you pitch it it always fels like you haven't got the full tick (unless you lead all pitches, I guess, but normally I'd be swapping leads)
In reply to GrahamD:
I was surprised when I read the description here at the recommendation to do it as a single pitch. Two pitches seems right to me and was how I did it back in the day; and it somehow feels better in general to have more than one pitch on a route, a bit more of a 'big crag' rather than an outcrop feel.
Still, to each their own. Delightful climb however you do it.
T.
I was surprised when I read the description here at the recommendation to do it as a single pitch. Two pitches seems right to me and was how I did it back in the day; and it somehow feels better in general to have more than one pitch on a route, a bit more of a 'big crag' rather than an outcrop feel.
Still, to each their own. Delightful climb however you do it.
T.
In reply to ianstevens:
I didn't read that part, my mistake - The Smile at Sharpnose then? I'd drop a grade and have an adventure on Pigs on the Wing or Heart of Darkness with the New Morning finish ????
I didn't read that part, my mistake - The Smile at Sharpnose then? I'd drop a grade and have an adventure on Pigs on the Wing or Heart of Darkness with the New Morning finish ????
In reply to Climbandwine:
If you just want that E1 tick, you could try No Musketeers (Direct Finish) (E1 5c). It's a protected one move direct finish to an enjoyable climb that's otherwise HVS. Then, thus emboldened, you could go for an E1 that has a bit more meat on its bones...
T.
If you just want that E1 tick, you could try No Musketeers (Direct Finish) (E1 5c). It's a protected one move direct finish to an enjoyable climb that's otherwise HVS. Then, thus emboldened, you could go for an E1 that has a bit more meat on its bones...
T.
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In reply to Climbandwine: There are a couple of really decent E1s at Screda Point. Their names escape me but they are lovely.
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In reply to Climbandwine:
Well, I don't really qualify as "recently climbed my first E1", but I'd really recommend Ultravixens (E1 5b) if you're in Pembrokeshire, it gets 3* in the definitive guide and I think it's well worth it. (I must think highly of it, because according to my logbook, I've climbed it 6 times!)
Well, I don't really qualify as "recently climbed my first E1", but I'd really recommend Ultravixens (E1 5b) if you're in Pembrokeshire, it gets 3* in the definitive guide and I think it's well worth it. (I must think highly of it, because according to my logbook, I've climbed it 6 times!)
In reply to Climbandwine:
How about 'Snozwanger' on Mowing Word?
Snozwanger (E1 5b)
Please Note: Due to nesting birds, the normal abseil down 'Diedre Sud' is not an option: -
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=429
How about 'Snozwanger' on Mowing Word?
Snozwanger (E1 5b)
Please Note: Due to nesting birds, the normal abseil down 'Diedre Sud' is not an option: -
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=429
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
I would do the Plum as two pitches as a preference (having done it as one and two pitches). As a first E1 two pitches can be less than 100% satisfactory- did I lead enough of it to get the E1 tick or did my mate actually get the crux pitch ? As one pitch it's a lonely lead especially entering the thin groove section.
I would do the Plum as two pitches as a preference (having done it as one and two pitches). As a first E1 two pitches can be less than 100% satisfactory- did I lead enough of it to get the E1 tick or did my mate actually get the crux pitch ? As one pitch it's a lonely lead especially entering the thin groove section.
In reply to Mark Kemball:
I think you're forgetting the roof at the start of the route! Someone had a bad accident on it a couple of years ago when they found that the first break was still greasy and horrible but the rest of the crag felt fine (I was there when it happened). Definitely not what I'd recommend as a first E1...
I think you're forgetting the roof at the start of the route! Someone had a bad accident on it a couple of years ago when they found that the first break was still greasy and horrible but the rest of the crag felt fine (I was there when it happened). Definitely not what I'd recommend as a first E1...
In reply to Climbandwine:
Matchless (E1 5b) Gets graded at E1 by Rockfax, pretty soft but in my opinion deserves the grade. Amazing cliff, high quality moves and as well protected as the Culm goes!
Equally either one of Fool's Gold (E1 5c) , Bela Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b) or Seams the Same (E1 5b) would be a good choice, all are well protected at the harder sections and pretty straightforward. Seams The Same was my first E1 lead about a year ago.
Matchless (E1 5b) Gets graded at E1 by Rockfax, pretty soft but in my opinion deserves the grade. Amazing cliff, high quality moves and as well protected as the Culm goes!
Equally either one of Fool's Gold (E1 5c) , Bela Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b) or Seams the Same (E1 5b) would be a good choice, all are well protected at the harder sections and pretty straightforward. Seams The Same was my first E1 lead about a year ago.
In reply to Climbandwine:
My first E1 leads were on Peak limestone: Sergeyenna and Nostradamus etc on Chee Tor, then Debauchery on High Tor. Mostly technical and relatively safe on great crags. Then move on to Two Sun Spots, Hergeyani (sp) and aim for Ceramic .... Onwards and upwards, hope it goes well.
My first E1 leads were on Peak limestone: Sergeyenna and Nostradamus etc on Chee Tor, then Debauchery on High Tor. Mostly technical and relatively safe on great crags. Then move on to Two Sun Spots, Hergeyani (sp) and aim for Ceramic .... Onwards and upwards, hope it goes well.
In reply to JackM92:
Culm is a bit of an aquired taste, I wouldn't recommend it for a first E1 unless you're used to the rock.
Culm is a bit of an aquired taste, I wouldn't recommend it for a first E1 unless you're used to the rock.
In reply to spenser:
Didn't know about this, I can't remember finding the start that tricky myself, but if it wasn't greasy when I did it...
Didn't know about this, I can't remember finding the start that tricky myself, but if it wasn't greasy when I did it...
In reply to Mark Kemball:
There is definately a run out and comitting start shared with Ultravox and Ultravixens so probably not best first E1 choice, but - as you say - a superb route.
There is definately a run out and comitting start shared with Ultravox and Ultravixens so probably not best first E1 choice, but - as you say - a superb route.
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