UKC

INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b

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 UKC News 05 Jun 2017
As reported earlier, Steve McClure finally ticked his long-term super project at Malham Cove to establish the UK's first 9b, which he has appropriately named Rainman. The line starts up Raindogs 8a, negotiates the crux of Rainshadow 9a, then leads up Batman 9a/+ before finishing up Bat Route 8c and also incorporates some new ground.

We sent him some questions now that he's had time to catch his breath...



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 stp 06 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great interview.

I thought this was interesting: Apparently, with my finger strength I should be climbing 8c. I'm not making that up, it's based on real data compared to a lot of people.

I always thought his finger strength was his main strength. Maybe the data should suggest the other people ought be climbing 9b then?
 stp 06 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Added some photos of Steve attempting the route last year and the year before. Some are up already, some still awaiting approval: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=23072
 petegunn 06 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Did Steve tie his laces for this one? Probably not : )
In reply to petegunn:

Was considering asking but he's probably a bit fed up with that question, been done a lot!
 Bulls Crack 06 Jun 2017
In reply to stp:

`I've noticed he pulls on to various bits of the catwalk wall a lot in between attempts - on biggish holds.

I will be doing this from now on and expect to see an improvement
 SuperLee1985 06 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Does this also make him the first Brit to climb 9b?
Post edited at 17:47
In reply to SuperLee1985:

Sure does. Impressive - the young guns need to catch up!
 stp 06 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Congrats from Adam Ondra's Instagram:
"So damn impressive, so much effort, so much persistence, so much belief, so hard (I am sure about it!). Rainman (aka The Easy Easy project) 9b."
 luke glaister 06 Jun 2017
In reply to stp:
I seen that also. A touch of class i thought.
Post edited at 22:41
 MischaHY 07 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

The best bit about this is that while many people seem to envision strong folk like Sharma fading from the scene over time, Steve is like a fine wine that just gets better and better. What an absolute legend and I'm completely unashamed to list him as one of my heroes and inspirations in climbing!
 1poundSOCKS 07 Jun 2017
In reply to MischaHY:
> What an absolute legend and I'm completely unashamed to list him as one of my heroes and inspirations in climbing!

I think the biggest strength is having the resolve to keep believing, the pressure after 5 years and dropping the last moves a few times in the last few weeks must have been incredible. Malham was dripping wet yesterday BTW.
Post edited at 12:07
 ste mac 07 Jun 2017
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Really appreciate all the comments, kind of odd for me, being just a climber doing stuff like everyone else. we all play the same game. But what I want to know is Malham now drenched? I'm planning Friday, probably a few pictures to take, but mainly to go climbing there and do a load of those world class routes without something in the background shouting 'Hey, get back over here, you've not finished yet!'!
 1poundSOCKS 07 Jun 2017
In reply to ste mac:

> But what I want to know is Malham now drenched?

Mainly the left hand side, Yosemite Wall/Space Race and Tremelo is soaked. Better in the middle and right hand side, for example The Groove was dry I think. There were other wet streaks, but can't remember the details. Must have been some very heavy rain, the path was flooded by the gate.
 Michael Hood 07 Jun 2017
In reply to ste mac: Quick lap on Rainshadow, you should have most of it wired

 Olaf Prot 07 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I can't believe the interviewer didn't ask if he'd done anything on grit?
14
 stp 07 Jun 2017
In reply to MischaHY:

> while many people seem to envision strong folk like Sharma fading from the scene over time

Not sure why anyone would think that. The guy has just built his own gym in Barcelona and also has a new project: El Bonne Combat's evil sister:

youtube.com/watch?v=9M-JdX5C1fc&

All that despite just having a baby. My impression is that Sharma is as passionate about climbing as anyone and will be doing it as for as long as he is able.
 Michael Gordon 11 Jun 2017
In reply to stp:

I think maybe what was meant was he may struggle to retain his very high level, although Steve Mac is strong proof that that is not a certainty.
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