UKC

Hi. Im off to the lake district next week and im looking for a really nice easy climb to do. Preferably severe or below, though being well protected is most important, also no more than 3-4 pitches and very little polish, good moves and views would be a bonus. Quite restrictive I know but I havent lead in years and we have some none climbers in our group so wouldnt want to spend too long on the wall.

Only route I can see so far is Brown slab arete on Shepherds Crag??

Also, where would I go for great easy bouldering?

Thanks

In reply to phja:

Whilst you are at Shepherds Crag the obvious route for you would be Little Chamonix VD. Exposed at the top but good holds and well protected.

Other good Lakes multi pitch are:-

Langdale:_

Middle Fell Buttress VD a series of "steps" with good belay ledges.

Upper Scout Crag Route 1 VD probably the best climb of it's grade in Langdale, superb exposed climbing, difficult to protect with long run outs, but very easy and as you profile states you lead E1, you shouldn't have any problems even if it's a year or two since you last led. I first led it over 50 years ago when modern pro didn't exist. Led it again last year and found it delightful.

Bowfell Buttress VD. An outstanding day out. A bit of a walk in and maybe longer than you are looking for. Excellent climbing, generally good protection. The crux crack is quite thin, harder than anything else on the route, and thought provoking, but is above a wide ledge. Again as an E1 leader you should cope with it ok.

In reply to phja:

I second Little Chamonix.

Further down Borrowdale is Raven Crag with Corvus, a diff.
As a starter for the non-climbers you could go up Cam Crag Ridge-scramble, or if you are thinking of Middle fell buttress, then Langdale has of course got the diagonal scramble up Pavey Ark, Jack's Rake.

It would be worth investing in the "Scrambles and easy climbs in the Lake District" by John Sparks and Judith Brown.

In reply to phja:

Gimmer's always a good venue for easy multi's.

In reply to phja:

If you are not shy of a walk and your based North Lakes, try here Grey Crag (Buttermere)

In reply to phja:

Bouldering:
Chapel Stile, Langdale has a fair amount of easy stuff and it's good. Venue is lovely too. Beware the bracken will be high and plenty ticks around, long trousers and long sleeve tops will be handy.
Eskdale also has some lovely venues for bouldering.

Climbing:
For less polish you'll need to walk further up the hillsides.
Gimmer has plenty to do and it's all brilliant;
Dow also has lots to go at. An early start is best to make the most of any morning sun;
Pikes crag, Scafell Pike - worth the walk and polish/queue free

HTH