/ Sport Crags near to Chester

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Ciderslider - on 12 Jun 2017
Can anyone give me any advice re sport crags near to Chester. I'm up that way next weekend and might get the chance to climb, so just Ned the heads up on what's good and what's not
Mike Stretford - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider: Going off your profile grades I'd suggest

Trevor Quarry#maps

Ally Smith on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider:

Penmaen Head & Llanddulas Cave are about 45min along the A55
Derek Furze - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider:

Frogsmouth is convenient and only 30 minutes from Chester. Plenty from 6a upwards and a few easier things as well.
Tyler - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Derek Furze:

Have you been recently? I went for a look a few weeks ago and it looked a bit unclimbed but possibly cleaned up now?

To the OP: I'd suggest Eglwyseg Valley (Clwyd Rock) or if you want 7b upwards Devil's Gorge
Ally Smith on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Tyler:

You fancy checking out Frogsmouth one evening in the next few weeks give me a bell?
Otis - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider:
In terms of proximity:

Closest crags are the Dyserth crags at about 35 mins (Meliden quarry, Dyserth castle and waterfall crag). All are along the A55 and within a few minutes of each other.

Next closest at 40 minutes or so is Trevor, close to Llangollen.

If you go a bit further along the A55 you'll get to Castle Inn in about 55 mins. The increased journey time is offset by ease of access (I.e. Don't drive into the crag when you park!).

Guidebooks are A55 sport climbs for, er, the A55 routes and Rockfax clwydian limestone for Trevor.

There are other crags along the A55, but the above are the closer ones and have plenty to offer in your sport grade range (which is similar to mine). Meliden doesn't have many routes, but can be combined with the others for a few more ticks.
Hope this helps.
Post edited at 18:38
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Derek Furze - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Tyler:

I haven't been for a while, but it can have an overgrown feel in Summer. However, my mates were there recently doing all the standard stuff up to 7a+ so can't be too bad? Underneath the veneer of broken bottles and luxuriant vegetation are some decent routes!
Tyler - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:
I do!
steveriley - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider:

Castle Inn? Frogsmouth has some great routes but can be an acquired taste
Dave Garnett - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to steveriley:

> Castle Inn?

I'm a bit of a sport climbing agnostic but I quite liked Castle Inn. A nod to natural lines, not too polished, sensibly graded, not massively steep; so basically trad climbing with bolts apart from the lack of walking involved.

rockcat - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to Ciderslider:

The Dyserth area is only just over 31 miles away from Chester. There are 4 crags, one is poor, one is currently out of bounds but there are two other excellent crags: Castle Slab and Waterfall Crag. Both are well worth a visit. See "A55 Sport climbs."

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