/ Best Obscure E3's in the UK

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mark hounslea - on 13 Jun 2017
I recently enjoyed climbing Neptune on the west coast of Lewis and would put it into my all time top ten routes. As E3 is my favourite(read top grade when going well) can anyone recommend some others? I'm not looking for a list of established classics as I've done most of them, but for the more obscure in perhaps difficult to reach places.
Dave Kerr - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Piggy Bank at Neist.
Dave Kerr - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Roaring Foam on Lewis is also pretty good at E3. Lots to go for at that grade in NW Scotland and Western Isles.
Jon Stewart - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Thought Neptune was a nice route, but nowhere near E3 and not vastly memorable.

A 3* Pembroke one that seems not to get many ascents is Gravy Train (E3 5c). One of the best I've done, an amazing adventure for just one pitch. Another one that's a bit obscure (or certainly was before the Wired guide) is Splendour (E3 5c).

I've not done them (yet!) but the Lakes has stacks of obscure "classics" that rarely get done due to the combination of walk-ins and conditions. The Arc'Teryx Lakeland Revival Hidden Classics list is a great place to start: Humdrum (E3 5c), Fanghorn (E3 5c), Snicker Snack (E3 5c), The Voyage (E3 5c). So many more though, if you can get the stars to align to climb these kind of lines.
Kevin Woods - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Storming the Bastille on Binnein Shuas is an offwidth cleaving an overhang described both as 'dirty', and 'the scariest chimney climb in Scotland'
Alex the Alex on 13 Jun 2017
Dave Ferguson - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

This was really good: Numenor Direct (E3 5c) and I was lucky enough to catch it when it was clean.
Plenty on the Lleyn and one that stands out is: Star Trek (E3 5c), for the positions and on really good quality rock (in Lleyn terms that is!)
andyinglis - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
Rolling Foam, Supercrag (Lochinver)
Monkey Puzzle, Longhaven
Titans Wall, Ben Nevis
Sumo, Beinn Eighe
Black Spout Wall, Lochnagar

All decent and should be memorable for different reasons.


mark hounslea - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
Some great info; keep them coming!
scott titt - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
I reckoned Daear Ddu Groove (E3 5c) was pretty good, Go grab the second ascent.
ebdon - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
Air on a bowstring, Bowfell buttress Air on a Bowstring (E3 5c)
Post edited at 21:42
planetmarshall on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Only seconded with Fiend but thought The Whistling Chimney (E3 5c) was great fun.
salix on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Recently did Diamond Cutter (E3 6a) in Glen lednock and thought it great for a single pitch.
A Few Dollars More (E3 5c) is great for the situation, the climbing is ok.
craig h - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
Frisky After Whisky at Kilt Rock, Skye is a 3*** route, a total body work out and away from the crowds as you have to walk 100m further. Well protected and fun. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=79974
Post edited at 22:17
Dave Kerr - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to salix:
> Recently did Diamond Cutter (E3 6a) in Glen lednock and thought it great for a single pitch.

Diamond Cutter combined with the good E3s on the other side of the glen (No Place for a Wendy and Great Crack) would be a great day at the grade.
Post edited at 22:21
Pilo - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

'the more obscure in perhaps difficult to reach places' - Does that mean you want to drive for hours or a long walk in? Or both.

An unforgetable outing with easy to medium access and decents... 'Black mamba' on Whitestonecliff in North Yorkshire. It will make your day.
Robert Durran - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to andyinglis:

> Rolling Foam, Supercrag (Lochinver)
> Monkey Puzzle, Longhaven
> Titans Wall, Ben Nevis
> Sumo, Beinn Eighe
> Black Spout Wall, Lochnagar
> All decent and should be memorable for different reasons.

The last three are all much better then "decent"; in fact utterly brilliant and candidates for a "Top ten E3's in the UK" list rather than a "Best obscure" one. The only one I might describe as obscure is Rolling Foam and only because it's not yet in a guide book.

Smelly Fox - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

A couple from the Galloway Peninsula stand out for me...

The Man from Del Monte (E3 6a)

And (defo worth E3)

Freewheeling (E2 5b)

Also, I only seconded it, but this is a must...

Scissors (E3 5a)
johncoxmysteriously - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Not sure if it qualifies as 'obscure', but I thought Skydiver on Arran was really good.

Skydiver (E3 6a)

jcm
French Erick - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

The Torridonian (E3 6a)
although is it obscure?
Max factor - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Burden of Dreams (E3 6a)

in the Mournes. Not least because Nalle nicked the name for the hardest boulder in the world.
Toerag - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:
This is well worth a look - would have queues on it if it were in Cornwall apparently:-
Hades (E3 5c)
Post edited at 14:11
Adam Long - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Three Dandy Scuttlers, Craig Dorys
Mantrap, South Stack
Crystal Voyager, Bosley Cloud
Scowl, Coir'uisg buttress
Ged Desforges - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Pressure Drop, Spekesmill Mouth, North Devon
TMM on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Gorillability (E3 5c)

Access challenges dependent on height of nettles.
Dave Kerr - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Not sure if it qualifies as 'obscure', but I thought Skydiver on Arran was really good.

It's well known but I don't think it gets that many ascents. A first rate route.

More obscure and equally brilliant on Arran is Blundecral.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=28702&updated=2022
mark hounslea - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to Max factor:

Is it close to the 'girls' route?
Max factor - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

No idea what you mean by that - maybe missing a joke . It's on Slieve Beg - 1.5 to 2 hours from the carpark; about 30 odd minutes up from Cove mountain. Approx on the r.h.s of the buttress to the left of the scree filled couloir here

https://www.themountainguide.co.uk/ireland/slieve-beg-photos.htm
mark hounslea - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to Max factor:

Sorry I couldn't remember it's name...and its E2 !Les Jeunes Filles en Jupes d'Ete E2 5b
ads.ukclimbing.com
Allovesclimbin - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Shape of things to come , Deimos , Wing and a Prayer all on Eagle Crag Buttermere are some great lines and not often done
. Painted Lady on Raven Crag Red Pike , and the East Wall of Pavey has a few.
The Islands have loads in Scotland and in Sheigra , Monkey Man , although soft touch at the grade ! Down in the Gower , try Samurai, about two grades harder !
Martin McKenna - UKC - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Voyage of Faith (E3 5c), having recently done this I can safely say it's the best route I have ever done. Not many routes cover such dramatic ground and positions for a route at this grade.

Also thirding Diamond Cutter (E3 6a). Bit of a hidden gem that.

Martin McKenna - UKC - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

As Kevin mentioned Binnein Shuas, Delayed Attack (E3) into Ardanfreaky (E3 5c) is a great linkup. Delayed is especially good.
Adam Long - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to Dave Kerr:

I thought Skydiver was over-rated to be honest. Unbalanced; a really good 5b first pitch, second pitch desperate (I wouldn't have argued with 6b) for 10ft, then bold 5a to the top with loose flakes. Hardlands is a much better route, really classy. More sustained but unlike Skydiver never desperate.

The E3 on Cuithe Mheadhonach was well worthwhile - better than Skydiver - and sufficiently obscure that no routes have been entered on here. The easiest way up an impressive bit of rock, only marred by a bolt belay(!).

Robert Durran - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to almost Everyone:

"In Scotland" is not synonymous with "obscure".

Tyler - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

Are you telling me I can't suggest Edgehog then?
Robert Durran - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Tyler:

> Are you telling me I can't suggest Edgehog then?

Of course not. It's a well known classic in a popular mainstream area. Just like half the routes already mentioned.....
alan rosier - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Video Kills and Corsican Days at Split Rock Quarry, a disused railway cutting near Wookey Hole, may fit the bill.
Robert Durran - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to Martin McKenna - UKC:

> Voyage of Faith (E3 5c), having recently done this I can safely say it's the best route I have ever done.

Presumably you havn't done Les Voyageurs then

And I wouldn't exactly say that Voyage qualifies as obscure these days.......

Rob Gillespie - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Crystal voyager at Bosley is a brilliant E3 and takes some finding


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