/ UK beach bouldering

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flopsicle - on 08:09 Sun
I've only gone and done it! Bought a cheapie camper !

My 9 year old really wants some seaside bouldering. She's pretty solid at v0, occasional v1.

So where are the best venues for a sea breeze sending fest?

Also, as I'm here, outside of our Peaks stomping grounds ground - which UK wide places are so good it's worth buying the guide?
althesin on 08:36 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Buy Boulder Britain, it's exactly what you need.
Happy Bouldering.
johnl - on 08:54 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Portland has loads around that grade and has it's own Rockfax bouldering guide. Try the Portland Bill area.
Doug on 09:02 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

beach & bouldering ? try Cummingstone
Cummingston#maps
flopsicle - on 09:25 Sun
In reply to althesin:

Got it already
flopsicle - on 11:15 Sun
In reply to Doug:

Looks interesting! Thanks
paul__in_sheffield - on 12:54 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Hi Flopsicle.
There's loads to go at. For a starter there's St Bees on the western Lake District coast, with some varied venues on either shingle beach or rock platform. Excellent bouldering.
If your over in N Wales, there's a little bouldering wall on Black Rock Sands near Porthmadog. You can drive the camper onto the beach.
Down in Cornwall when my son was little, we used to boulder on the beach at Porthcurno, and I seem to remember some on the quiet little beach n the cove of Porthcurno. Both near Lands End. While you're there, there is some stuff in Boulder Britain to take in.
Jon Stewart - on 20:19 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Congrats on the camper - the world's yer lobster.

Seaside bouldering places I've been to are:

- Reiff. Absolutely stunning place, beautiful hard sandstone, better for routes than bouldering, but there is some there. Not exactly a beach, more a rocky coast, but quite accessible.

- Cae Du. An actual beach. Some alright bouldering, not a huge amount and tidal. Fits the bill, I'd say, if the tides are right.

- St Bees. A very rocky spot, no beach, it's a wave-washed platform but pretty much non-tidal. The climbing is magnificent, loads of it. The approach is a bit steep and scrambly, requires a bit of confidence (but no abseiling). I have a vague recollection of going to another area with a pebble beach, but not finding a single problem.

- Codgy Point, St.Ives. Shite.
Tom Last - on 20:33 Sun
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> - Codgy Point, St.Ives. Shite.

Jon, I enjoy your posts on here; eloquent, thoughtful, apparently well constructed arguments - so what the utter fxck happened there?!
Tom Last - on 20:35 Sun
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

> Down in Cornwall when my son was little, we used to boulder on the beach at Porthcurno, and I seem to remember some on the quiet little beach n the cove of Porthcurno.

Pednvounder (Treen beach).

Good shout.

Jon Stewart - on 20:36 Sun
In reply to Tom Last:

I do apologise. It's a beautiful spot, but that rock was not made for bouldering. It would make good trad routes I think, but I didn't find any problems that even approached being OK. After a bit I just decided to sit around watching the waves, which was far more entertaining than the appalling bouldering.
Tom Last - on 20:42 Sun
In reply to Jon Stewart:

It is a bit snappy I grant you and everything's a bit nails too. It's about the only bouldering venue to escape from the granite in Cornwall too - well, that isn't shale anyway - so maybe we hold it in too high esteem. Funnily enough there's no recorded routes at Clodgy, though there's lots of potential.
Jon Stewart - on 20:45 Sun
In reply to Tom Last:

There was one problem that I thought I might be able to do, but the shit 30 degree slab landing did for that one. I was kind of bemused by the highballs above incredibly pointy boulders sticking out of rockpools.
pencilled in on 21:01 Sun
In reply to OP:
A camper? Welcome to the empty wallet club.
Pedn Rounder is a lovely spot if you don't mind the nudists. There's even an old E4 on some shaded overhanging face which translates to a very doable highball with a mat. The camp-site above (Treen cliff) takes no bookings and operates a waiting list, but with a camper you can wait it out in the pay and display field next door.

Greasy Prusiks on 21:08 Sun
In reply to Jon Stewart:

You mean you don't enjoy the idea of falling off a massively sandbagged 5+ onto a big spike to end your days being slowly eaten by a crab that will one day be fed to a large emmet for £16.99? What's wrong with you man!

If you're in West Penwith, godrevy is better bouldering in my opinion.
bouldery bits - on 21:16 Sun
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I like Godrevey. It's fab.

And actually, as a place to go adventuring with a 9 year old with a camper van, I can think of few better. If you head down late August / early September you'll probably be able to see the baby seals too!
Post edited at 21:19
Miranda on 21:16 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Three Cliffs Bay at the Gower. Good campsite, beautiful beach and lots to clamber about on for kids and adults of all ages; plus classic roped climbing as a bonus.
Greasy Prusiks on 21:37 Sun
In reply to bouldery bits:
Yeah I thought it was a good bet bet. Plenty of other bouldering close by if you don't gel with godrevy and a really good beach right next to you to boot.
Post edited at 21:38
Tom Last - on 21:48 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

Achmelvich would fit the bill too if you're way up there.
mbh - on 21:56 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:

^^^what bouldery bits said. Great place for a nine year old and an adventurous parent. When you both are done with bouldering/rock pooling/surfing/sun bathing/swimming/hide and seek/enjoying the humungous beach, walk up the coast path a tiny bit, past the light house and see dozens of seals clustered beneath you.There's no better place in Cornwall to see so many.
andrew ogilvie - on 22:57 Sun
In reply to flopsicle:
Larbrax in Galloway has beach and good bouldering, but not in exactly the same place.
John Watson's new book notes some bouldering at Carradale in kintyre - I lived in Carradale at school and there is some bouldering though the schist can be brittle ( actually there is more potential on the shore north of the harbour than on the point but it's more difficult to access . The beach at Carradale is beautiful though and the sea sheltered and shallow . I used to boulder on the crag at Springwell at the north end of Torrisdale bay , 2 miles or so south ( very short, fingery problems about 4c to maybe 5c/6a British tech) , if you search on Geograph you'll find my picture of it: the bay there isn't as sheltered or shallow as at Carradale and was rather spoilt In the late 80s? by the construction of a concrete slipway for timber export (now derelict). Nice beaches with possibility of bouldering at Dunaverty ,Southend too.
Post edited at 22:57
chrisgj on 23:11 Sun


> - St Bees. A very rocky spot, no beach, it's a wave-washed platform but pretty much non-tidal. The climbing is magnificent, loads of it. The approach is a bit steep and scrambly, requires a bit of confidence (but no abseiling). I have a vague recollection of going to another area with a pebble beach, but not finding a single problem
Fleswick bay, cliff top walk easy access,nice secluded Beach.
Fleswick Bay


flopsicle - on 08:04 Mon
In reply to flopsicle:

Fantastic responses - we'll need a van to get round that lot! South first me thinks....
winhill - on 09:32 Mon
In reply to flopsicle:

I would avoid St Bees if I were you, it's a long and awkward walk in especially if you are carrying all the gear and trying to look after a kiddie on your own (best to avoid the fisherman's steps and go the long way).

Portland is a good suggestion but I found the Cuttings Boulderfield was not too kid friendly and little people struggle to get on, didn't boulder round the west side though and there is probably more to go at there. But you can't camp on Portland. I know of a nice campsite if you try down there.

Boulder Britain is good for whetting your appetite but less so for a holiday, the Dorset Boulder book for rockfax is worth it if you commit to there.

Pembroke is somewhere I always wanted to try but it's a long drive, you could be in Cornwall in the almost the same time.

The best beach I found was Sunny Bay at Armathwaite but it's a long way from the sea (and no good for little kids).

Boulder Britain is good for whetting your appetite but less so for a holiday, the Dorset Boulder book from rockfax is worth it if you commit to there or the climbers club Portland guide if you decide to take the ropes.
Ian Patterson on 11:31 Mon
In reply to winhill:

Lots of suggestions here but sounds like quite a lot are beach with a bit of bouldering or bouldering with a bit of beach! In the first category I remember have some fun at Mattiscombe beach south Devon a few years ago, beautiful spot about 20 mins walk which reduces crowd and some decent entertainment to be had bouldering wise with a bit of imagination.

However if I wanted to introduce a 9 year old to the pleasures of campervan bouldering I'd try to make it to Font, possibly (probably?) the best bouldering in the world, and almost certainly the most varied low grade bouldering in the world and loads of wonderful places to mix climbing, exploring and relaxing.
petegunn on 11:54 Mon
In reply to winhill:

Sandy Bay ; )
The Ivanator - on 12:10 Mon
In reply to flopsicle:
Portland has been mentioned a couple of times, but a more specific pointer would be to the Mugley's Plain area near the Lighthouse Lighthouse Area, to quote Rockfax's Dorset Bouldering: " A quarried area with over 50 vertical problems of a perfect height above predominantly flat landings. The expansive ledge at the base creates a pleasant family-friendly location..."
About 20 of the problems are in the V0 - V1 range, with more of the same in adjacent coves. Great for a swim afterwards too, but it is rocky ledges rather than a sandy beach. Cafe/ice creams available by the Lighthouse too.
This photo gives a good idea of the place: https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=265187
Post edited at 12:26
RockSteady on 12:15 Mon
In reply to flopsicle:

Porth Ysgo
On the beach, loads to try - on the walk to the main areas there are little, lower boulders to try.
Downside - need multiple pads as the landings are rocky. Some of the problems are quite high.
Amazing location though, I loved it.
flopsicle - on 21:21 Mon
In reply to flopsicle:

Thanks loads for the replies - just what I was after.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Antony Mariani - on 10:39 Tue
In reply to flopsicle:

Flopsicle,

A couple more North Wales suggestions:
Gimblet Rock Boulders
Tidal but on the beach. Easy problems, cruxes low down, top outs easier, but do get a bit high - worth being aware of for a 9 year old - can always do the crux then drop onto mat.

Benllech Beach
Very scrappy climbing, but non-tidal and on the beach. As long as you drop off/climb down from the obvious break, as I've suggested in the descriptions on UKC, it is very safe. I would think a very good place for a 10 year old.

UKC has all the information you need to find the problems and easy to combine with a chilled beach day,

Cheers
Antony
ianstevens - on 11:54 Tue
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Congrats on the camper - the world's yer lobster.

> - Cae Du. An actual beach. Some alright bouldering, not a huge amount and tidal. Fits the bill, I'd say, if the tides are right.

The farmer will charge you a fiver to park in the field, and the climbing isn't the best - far better places to go IMO ( Porth Ysgo for example)


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