/ Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Far East Wall)

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Jon Stewart - on 18 Jun 2017
I've wanted to climb at this place for years, looks amazing. I'm prepared to do the driving at the drop of a hat if the conditions fall on the right day - so what do I need?

I imagine it's a heatwave only crag? The routes I'd like to do are Groovin' High and Angel Face - do they stay half-way dry during the summer, or how many days do they take to dry?

Any info to increase the chance of a successful mission to these routes much appreciated!
DannyC - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hi Jon,

We did Angel Face during the late April dry spell and it was bone dry. I'm not an expert on the place but I'd say a couple of days after heavy rain at most during summer should be okay (it's v steep and the snow patch above has probably been gone for more than four months) I'd definitely want a breeze to ward off the midges. Amazing place.

Have fun,

D.
Jon Stewart - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to DannyC:

Cheers, sounds quite hopeful!
Andy Nisbet - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

It depends on the weather over a long period before. The rock dries very quickly but there is seepage which is the problem. It's rained a lot the last month so I think it might take a while. But then the previous 6 months were quite dry. So pluses and minuses. I would think a few dry days necessary (say a week), but then one day's rain shouldn't hold you back. Groovin' High is quicker than Angel Face though. Shame, it would have been dry the whole of May.
Jon Stewart - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Thanks, really useful info. I'd totally forgotten that I even wanted to climb there and it just didn't cross my mind during the prolonged dry spell. Might be because here in the Lakes, when it was really dry it was also really cold and windy up on the fells so Scottish mountain crags never crossed my mind. But there are many years to go climbing ahead...

Are there any good resources on the web for Scottish mountain crag conditions?
Robert Durran - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> The routes I'd like to do are Groovin' High and Angel Face.

If you have the time and weather, camp in the Coire for a couple of days for the full sublime experience. Then you can comfortably do two routes in a day, so could add Sumo to your list to complete three strong candidiates for the best mountain E1, E2 and E3's in the country. After doing Sumo I remember sitting at the top after it's two amazing and contrasting pitches wondering whether either of us had ever done a better route! Pale Diedre on the Eastern Ramparts is fantastic at E2 too. This sort of stuff is what that fourth Scottish star is really all about

Jon Stewart - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

That sounds pretty amazing. Certainly doable in theory as a 'weekend' (I get 2 days off together in the week) - although I can imagine a pretty rough day at work after. There are drugs that can help I suppose...
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Tyler - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
I was told the Ling Dynasty is one of the best routes around. I've no idea if that's true but I'm curious, so if you do it let us know.
Post edited at 23:13
Misha - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Never been in summer but in winter from what I've seen that face doesn't get much seepage other than a few lines, so reckon it's worth a visit in a warm, dry spell.

It's not unreasonable for a weekend from where you are. I've done it from Birmingham in winter...
Post edited at 03:03
Alex the Alex on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Heya Jon,

If you need a last minute partner when that weather window arrives let me know. Ive never managed to get up there and would love to. Im based in Oban and pretty flexible in terms of work so midweek is often not a problem.

Cheers,

Alex

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