UKC

I'm on the verge of replacing my aging road bike and been considering disk brakes this time. I'd had this in mind for a while cause I'd understood they performed better on steep/fast descents which I like the sound of.

Reading about them it seems that there isn't much standardisation yet so could be a bit of a mine field choosing the right system if things do standardise at some point and manufacturers stop making certain parts. Is anyone on here using them on a road bike and have any pointers? I'll probably be looking to spend about 1 to 1.5k on the new bike with Shimano 105 and the nicest/lightest frame that would allow for so cost could be a factor, they do seem to be more on higher end bikes.

Thanks

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I don't think there's a huge difference between v-brakes and mech disc brakes. I had mech discs on an old bike and didn't really see any difference in performance to my current v-brakes. Apparently the avid BB5s and BB7s are good mech disc brakes although I've never used them. Hydraulic disc brakes are a dream although you might struggle to find bikes with 105, a light frame and hydraulic discs for £1-1.5k.

I recently bought a road bike around the same price point and prioritised the groupset and frame so ended up with v-brakes. Having ridden it through storms and on some fast and long descents so far, I'm pretty happy with the decision!

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I know two people who had them on 4K bikes, both returned them. Not sure of reasons for one but the one I ride with the most had a nightmare with them. They screamed and squeeled and there was nothing anyone from the shop, to madison to specialised could do about it. His bike ended up like Triggers broom! After he swapped bikes he said the stopping was good but not worth it for the stress. My brother reckons it's a design flaw and they needed through axels (only his opinion I've not looked into it)
There is another guy in the club and he's had no problems on a 1-2k bike.

I'd have them on my commuter in a flash but I'll resist until forced on my road bike. I only ride that in the dry and have KCNC super light weight brakes on it which are half the weight of dura ace ones and far less stopping power which is still more than enough.

Luckily none of what I've said should matter to you, the rules are the same. Test ride and buy the pretty one that makes your heart sing!

Cheers

Toby

In reply:

Thanks guys, I certainly wouldn't bother unless the performance was a big improvement, they sound like a big hassle in terms of maintenance.

Toby you're right that I'll just give them a go and it may end up coming down to what's in the shop cause I'm a fair distance from a decent bike shop and also very impatient!

In reply to Matt Vigg:

It depends on your personal equation for performance and safety vs hassle.

Well set up, the vibration is minimal and road disc brakes are silent, provide VASTLY more usable decellerating force.

The tour argument isn't about people cutting themselves, it's about braking distances vs reaction times in a tight pack.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

If you bed them in properly squealing shouldn't be an issue. I'm used to them on my mtb and so I don't think maintenance is really a massive problem and if you ride in the wet, on gravel, or on poorly surfaced roads you know you'll be able to stop hard regardless of wet or out of true rims. I have TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes on my roady and they're great. Hydros would be a step up again but are pricey.

In reply to Matt Vigg:




I've never ridden a road bike with disc brakes, but off road the opposite is true, they're almost maintenance free. My V-brakes needed much more maintenance, pads lasted far less time, and the set up needed precision and regular adjusting as the pads wore. My discs (XT on my Scott Hardtail, installed easily by non-techy me) and SLX (Giant Anthem SL) just sit on the bike and do the job very well. Occasionally you're supposed to bleed the brakes, which does seem a faff. However, I've only done it once on my Scott (put the brakes on it in 2004, bled them last year!!) and not yet on the Giant (had since Aug). Bike shops can do this for you if needed, for a reasonable price. Other than that, pads are quick to change, even mid-ride. I don't quite understand how they can be such a pain on an expensive road bike when they've been successfully used for decades off road with very little fuss.

In reply to Mal Grey:

Honestly, I think MTBers are just more used to maintenance.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I've got a few bikes - one with 105 cantilever, one with Dura-ace cantilever and one with 105 hydraulic discs. In the dry, there's not much to choose between the Dura-ace and the hydraulic - both are really powerful and comfortably out-stop the 105 canti and are much the same as each other.

In the wet, the Dura-ace were awful (sailing through zebra crossings awful) until I swapped the pads for SwissStop, now they're OK. 105 are OK. The hydraulics stop almost as well as in the dry - the worry is tyre adhesion - but in the wet they squeal like nothing on earth, but you don't get that grim grinding sound of your rims being worn away. Silent in the dry though.

On balance - discs over 105 canti, but Dura-ace overall (you pay your money etc). If you do a lot of hills in iffy weather - discs. Carbon clinchers and discs make quite a lot of sense.

In reply to neuromancer:

It's both isn't it? Although discs have been used for racing in some races this year.

I can't see the problem with rim brakes tbh. Even on carbon rims they're good.

In reply to nniff:

I agree with all of this, pads/blocks make a huge difference and in a few years I'd consider using discs as an excuse (rim wear) to by eye wateringly expensive carbon climbing wheels, n+1 and all that

Cheers

Toby

In reply to various:

Cheers all, my faff tolerance is fairly low when it comes to my bike, I've done the bare minimum to my current one and it's lasted about 10 years. Reckon I'll just try a few options out, and it does seem like price will be a factor.

In reply to nniff:

Cantilever's sound like an interesting option though, don't seem too pricey either from a quick search....

In reply to Matt Vigg:

Do not do it. They weigh more, cost more and need more maintenance. They represent a total downgrade not an upgrade. That is my experience anyway.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

There are not maintenance hassles with hydraulic disc brakes. Once set up they work perfectly, every time in all conditions. The power will blow you mind and the ability to one finger brake on fast descents is a godsend. Don't get put off by scare stories.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

Seconded. They revolutionised mountain bike braking and will do the same for commuters and wet road riders.

In reply to Rigid Raider:

Blimey, they definitely split opinion that's for sure! Tbh it's making me think that it's better to hold off, feels like there's a mix of quality right now, great when they work, awful when they don't...

In reply to Matt Vigg:

Have ultegra discs on my cyclo cross which I use as a winter road bike and ultegra rims on my orbea road bike.

Personally I'd have preferred discs on my orbea but wasn't happy to pay the 1k premium. Discs every time for me if cost wasnt a factor.

With 105's just check that your happy with the hood size as the reservoir is pretty big and takes up a lot of space, ultegra are a lot smaller and look more like conventional levers. Some reviews say they're not comfortable.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

They look f'awful.

In reply to Matt Vigg:
Something no one has mentioned

Now that frames are being designed with disc brakes in mind, rather than an afterthought, some of the restrictions from rim brakes no longer apply. One of these is that it is easier to allow for wider tyres - 28mm becoming standard - apparently both quicker and more comfortable than 25mm.

After a few teething issues with discs on mine I've been pretty happy with them, but being an early model I'm limited to 25m tyres which is a pain

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I have mechanical discs on the cross I use as a commuter. They are Tekro Spyres which have a dual piston design - that is both sides move against the rotor evenly - and are set up with Sora levers. http://road.cc/content/review/90569-trp-spyre-mechanical-disc-brake

I don't notice them being much more effective than the calipers on my old hybrid commuter in the dry - but definitely better in the wet. It's hard to compare with the calipers on my road bike because I ride them in completely different conditions.

In terms of maintenance, so far they have been really easy.

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I`ve got cable disc brakes on my cross bike and 105 rim brakes on my road bike and the rim brakes are way better . in the dry anyway .

In reply to Matt Vigg:

I'm going to go against what most people on here seem to be saying - I have hydro discs (shimano 105) on my everyday bike and they're great. Far better than the rim equivalent on my nicer road bike, in every way. So much so that it always makes me sad when I'm on the road bike!