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There was a topic last year that was rather good regarding clean routes in the lakes, I've not seen any one for this year so thought I'd re open a similar thread!
So far I've been up to shelter crags and done panjandrum, showtime and pleasure zone which are semi-clean, few bits of moss around, neckband was a little damp when I went but the routes looked clean. Yesterday I went up and climbed bleak how buttress/reiver which I gave a bit of a clean as I went up.
Also been gimmer and white ghyll way but as normal these were all clean as you'd expect.
So far I've been up to shelter crags and done panjandrum, showtime and pleasure zone which are semi-clean, few bits of moss around, neckband was a little damp when I went but the routes looked clean. Yesterday I went up and climbed bleak how buttress/reiver which I gave a bit of a clean as I went up.
Also been gimmer and white ghyll way but as normal these were all clean as you'd expect.
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In reply to joe.91:
Also climbed Eagle Front on Eagle Crag in Buttermere at he beginning of May which was clean, probably wet now though!
Also climbed Eagle Front on Eagle Crag in Buttermere at he beginning of May which was clean, probably wet now though!
In reply to joe.91:
If you click on "Logbooks" and scroll down to "UK Mountain Rock Conditions" you can view routes that have been done recently if that helps, for all areas of uk : )
If you click on "Logbooks" and scroll down to "UK Mountain Rock Conditions" you can view routes that have been done recently if that helps, for all areas of uk : )
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In reply to joe.91:
Climbed praying mantis in May, which was ok but cleaned it up more seconding the top pitch. Also climbed ddt and pulled lots of crap off.
Climbed praying mantis in May, which was ok but cleaned it up more seconding the top pitch. Also climbed ddt and pulled lots of crap off.
In reply to petegunn:
Aye I've seen that but having a topic like this is a bit more social allowing discussion rather than just checking a map!
Aye I've seen that but having a topic like this is a bit more social allowing discussion rather than just checking a map!
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In reply to joe.91:
Did totalitarian a couple of weeks ago on Raven crag. All the holds you need are clean and the bird ban is off.
The ab does want sorting though. You'll need a knife and about 5 meters (maybe more) of rope.
Did totalitarian a couple of weeks ago on Raven crag. All the holds you need are clean and the bird ban is off.
The ab does want sorting though. You'll need a knife and about 5 meters (maybe more) of rope.
Post edited at 19:16
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In reply to joe.91:
I did Irony on Quayfoot a few weeks ago, all of the holds you need are clean except for the first 3-4m which were quite slimy.
Sargeant Crag Slabs were pretty clean when I went up there in April.
I did Irony on Quayfoot a few weeks ago, all of the holds you need are clean except for the first 3-4m which were quite slimy.
Sargeant Crag Slabs were pretty clean when I went up there in April.
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In reply to joe.91:
Astra at Pavey is/was in pretty good nick. The first access pitch on the VS was a little crusty in places the first belay was fine, the second one required some cleaning with the nut tool to reveal better but placements. The route it's self was pretty spotless except for the top groove which required a little more digging with a nut tool.
Astra at Pavey is/was in pretty good nick. The first access pitch on the VS was a little crusty in places the first belay was fine, the second one required some cleaning with the nut tool to reveal better but placements. The route it's self was pretty spotless except for the top groove which required a little more digging with a nut tool.
In reply to joe.91:
Recently done Innominate Crack, Eagle Nest Direct, Moss Ledge Direct & Jones Arete, Little Cham, CDM - all ok.
There is a long list of clean routes !!
What is clean ? - Not a speck of muck or blade of grass or veg - or with a bit to deal with.
Too used to hotrock crags.
There are however some seriously dirty crags - especially northish facing in damp conditions - nature has a nasty habit of growing in these conditions.
Recently done Innominate Crack, Eagle Nest Direct, Moss Ledge Direct & Jones Arete, Little Cham, CDM - all ok.
There is a long list of clean routes !!
What is clean ? - Not a speck of muck or blade of grass or veg - or with a bit to deal with.
Too used to hotrock crags.
There are however some seriously dirty crags - especially northish facing in damp conditions - nature has a nasty habit of growing in these conditions.
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In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Cambridge crag is the spot for a bit of dirt and some vegetation, the clean bits were wet and greasy
Cambridge crag is the spot for a bit of dirt and some vegetation, the clean bits were wet and greasy
In reply to joe.91:
There is an interesting piece by John Moore in the book about climbing on Scafell (Nowt but a fleein' thing) - re the effect on the vegetation by the type of rock and amount of iron in the rock. I can't remember which way it is - I think the more iron then the less veg - however Scafell crags are much cleaner then many other north facing crags.
A great clean route I did a few years ago was Wooley Jumper on Bowfell - helps with being an arête and the rock is glorious.
Interesting re Shelter Crag - not been - a friend had been recently and looking to go back.
Sergeant Crag Slabs is lovely and clean.
The sun always shines in the Duddon Valley !! - with its myriad of crags.
On the veggie crags a friend of mine wants to go to Eagle Crag in Borrowdale - which I went to a couple of years ago - and went away. Will be interesting to see how we come on. The routes on Lower Eagle Crag look cleaner and seem to be a different rock or direction.
Someone mentioned Gaskins - went there a few years ago - long walk !! - and you have to walk past Long Crag and Black Crag.
There is an interesting piece by John Moore in the book about climbing on Scafell (Nowt but a fleein' thing) - re the effect on the vegetation by the type of rock and amount of iron in the rock. I can't remember which way it is - I think the more iron then the less veg - however Scafell crags are much cleaner then many other north facing crags.
A great clean route I did a few years ago was Wooley Jumper on Bowfell - helps with being an arête and the rock is glorious.
Interesting re Shelter Crag - not been - a friend had been recently and looking to go back.
Sergeant Crag Slabs is lovely and clean.
The sun always shines in the Duddon Valley !! - with its myriad of crags.
On the veggie crags a friend of mine wants to go to Eagle Crag in Borrowdale - which I went to a couple of years ago - and went away. Will be interesting to see how we come on. The routes on Lower Eagle Crag look cleaner and seem to be a different rock or direction.
Someone mentioned Gaskins - went there a few years ago - long walk !! - and you have to walk past Long Crag and Black Crag.
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In reply to joe.91:
From this year/last year the following spring to mind
Surprisingly clean:
Thirlmere Eliminate, Castle Rock
Totalitarian
Main Slab Route to the Perch, Gill Crag
Somewhere in between clean and dirty:
Bleak Howe Buttress
Nexus, Eagle Crag Grisedale
Gethsemene, High Crag
Glorfindel, Neckband
Burger, Upper Swirl
Unsurprisingly dirty:
Myth of Fingerprints, Fat Charlie's Buttress
Artefact, High Crag
Banzai Pipeline
Filthy:
Bloodaxe, Carrock Fell
Far from the Madding Crowd, Thrang Crag
Too Baldly Go, Harrop Tarn
The list goes on...
From this year/last year the following spring to mind
Surprisingly clean:
Thirlmere Eliminate, Castle Rock
Totalitarian
Main Slab Route to the Perch, Gill Crag
Somewhere in between clean and dirty:
Bleak Howe Buttress
Nexus, Eagle Crag Grisedale
Gethsemene, High Crag
Glorfindel, Neckband
Burger, Upper Swirl
Unsurprisingly dirty:
Myth of Fingerprints, Fat Charlie's Buttress
Artefact, High Crag
Banzai Pipeline
Filthy:
Bloodaxe, Carrock Fell
Far from the Madding Crowd, Thrang Crag
Too Baldly Go, Harrop Tarn
The list goes on...
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In reply to joe.91:
Beowulf on Scrubby was clean enough, as were a number of routes in Dalt Quarry.....the path to Falcon Borrowdale, from the Watendlath end car park, however is becoming overgrown though!
Beowulf on Scrubby was clean enough, as were a number of routes in Dalt Quarry.....the path to Falcon Borrowdale, from the Watendlath end car park, however is becoming overgrown though!
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In reply to joe.91:
Been to Bowder crag today. Some of the rock in the pinnacle area looked okay, but it's generally very vegetated and a fair bit of green on the routes.
Wasn't feeling up to doing much anyway, so didn't bother.
Been to Bowder crag today. Some of the rock in the pinnacle area looked okay, but it's generally very vegetated and a fair bit of green on the routes.
Wasn't feeling up to doing much anyway, so didn't bother.
In reply to joe.91:
Lake District crags would all be a lot cleaner if the OAP's crag had not been developed. Even Shepherds is looking vegetated such is the draw of this dubious hole.
Lake District crags would all be a lot cleaner if the OAP's crag had not been developed. Even Shepherds is looking vegetated such is the draw of this dubious hole.
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In reply to joe.91:
On Pillar last week there were three teams climbing side by side on Megaton, Goodbye to All That and North-West Climb with all three meeting at the same belay before the penultimate pitches, seven climbers in total on quite a restricted stance! Considering they face north, all three routes are pretty clean, just the odd bit of black lichen here and there but no trouble in dry conditions. A good day was had by all.
On Pillar last week there were three teams climbing side by side on Megaton, Goodbye to All That and North-West Climb with all three meeting at the same belay before the penultimate pitches, seven climbers in total on quite a restricted stance! Considering they face north, all three routes are pretty clean, just the odd bit of black lichen here and there but no trouble in dry conditions. A good day was had by all.
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In reply to Stephen Reid - Needle Sports:
I think some folk are just a bit OCD when it comes to climbing on mountain routes, outside, where nature thrives! A little bit of dirt under the fingernails never hurt anyone. : )
I think some folk are just a bit OCD when it comes to climbing on mountain routes, outside, where nature thrives! A little bit of dirt under the fingernails never hurt anyone. : )
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In reply to Ron Kenyon:
Highly recommend Shelter Crag Ron. Went twice just after it appeared (as a last minute addition in tiny script) at the back of the then new Langdale guide book - 1989?. Knocked off most of the E1s and one of my partners then went back and put up a new E3 he'd spotted on that initial visit. Good that I got the E1s done at that time as they're a challenge for me these days. I should go back for the Hard VSs though. I hope it hasn't deteriorated in the meantime but, being a long walk, fear it might have.
Highly recommend Shelter Crag Ron. Went twice just after it appeared (as a last minute addition in tiny script) at the back of the then new Langdale guide book - 1989?. Knocked off most of the E1s and one of my partners then went back and put up a new E3 he'd spotted on that initial visit. Good that I got the E1s done at that time as they're a challenge for me these days. I should go back for the Hard VSs though. I hope it hasn't deteriorated in the meantime but, being a long walk, fear it might have.
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In reply to 3leggeddog:
Which is called....
Genuinely curious as I thought shepherds was the easyaccess honeypot
Which is called....
Genuinely curious as I thought shepherds was the easyaccess honeypot
Post edited at 16:47
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In reply to tmawer:
You have to be kidding.....why except for bad weather would anyone go to a quarry in preference to outstanding natural lakeland crags? (Scratches head in bemusement)
You have to be kidding.....why except for bad weather would anyone go to a quarry in preference to outstanding natural lakeland crags? (Scratches head in bemusement)
In reply to pebbles:
Ok..a serious answer. Many of the people using the crag are at the more mature end of the sport and have lived locally for ever, so in part it's the newness of the routes that attracts..... Rather a new bolted route than a 100th ascent of Adam or Gazebo. It's 5 minutes from the road. Many routes are extremely good and it feels like trad but with bolts... The outlook is nice too if you squint!
Ok..a serious answer. Many of the people using the crag are at the more mature end of the sport and have lived locally for ever, so in part it's the newness of the routes that attracts..... Rather a new bolted route than a 100th ascent of Adam or Gazebo. It's 5 minutes from the road. Many routes are extremely good and it feels like trad but with bolts... The outlook is nice too if you squint!
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In reply to pebbles:
I must admit I felt the same way when I went there, but can understand why it's popular in light of tmawer's observations (and that fact that mid-grade bolted routes - irrespective of where they are or how good/bad they are - tend to attract the crowds).
That said, I can't see myself going back there unless something seriously goes wrong!
I must admit I felt the same way when I went there, but can understand why it's popular in light of tmawer's observations (and that fact that mid-grade bolted routes - irrespective of where they are or how good/bad they are - tend to attract the crowds).
That said, I can't see myself going back there unless something seriously goes wrong!
In reply to tmawer:
Following on from TM's comments: Agree there are many retired who go to the quarry (including the creators of all the routes). However, there are often many young ones there too. Of course, they also have to work. Another point is the general unavailability of the housing for young people in the Lakes. In recent years, any fell race, bike event, orienteering event and many other pursuits are all dominated by older people. It's the way the Lake District has changed. Too many second homes, rental properties, holiday homes, holiday rental companies have disenfranchised the local youth and prevented them from buying houses as many were able to do in their youth in the 60s or 70s.
Bram is a great venue, and the route creator deserves a medal for his endeavours.
DC
Following on from TM's comments: Agree there are many retired who go to the quarry (including the creators of all the routes). However, there are often many young ones there too. Of course, they also have to work. Another point is the general unavailability of the housing for young people in the Lakes. In recent years, any fell race, bike event, orienteering event and many other pursuits are all dominated by older people. It's the way the Lake District has changed. Too many second homes, rental properties, holiday homes, holiday rental companies have disenfranchised the local youth and prevented them from buying houses as many were able to do in their youth in the 60s or 70s.
Bram is a great venue, and the route creator deserves a medal for his endeavours.
DC
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In reply to joe.91:
Also, some new and existing routes are clean on Miners crag, check frcc new routes.
DC
> There was a topic last year that was rather good regarding clean routes in the lakes, I've not seen any one for this year so thought I'd re open a similar thread!
Also, some new and existing routes are clean on Miners crag, check frcc new routes.
DC
In reply to joe.91:
Swirl upper and lower crags, Goat's crag and Tailor Gill slab all clean enough to enjoy.
Swirl upper and lower crags, Goat's crag and Tailor Gill slab all clean enough to enjoy.
In reply to LakesWinter:
Tumbleweed is also fine. Was wondering if anyone had been on the voyage, as I imagine it's probably rather bold and if it's dirty it could be a bit of a frightener
Tumbleweed is also fine. Was wondering if anyone had been on the voyage, as I imagine it's probably rather bold and if it's dirty it could be a bit of a frightener
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In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:
What like getting "old" ( I say this with tongue firmly in cheek as age doesn't stop most of the regulars cab burning me off no problem ) and having knackered knees and all manner of other ailments problems associated with a lifetime of climbing ? Heaven forbid folk should still be active climbers , whatever next .
> That said, I can't see myself going back there unless something seriously goes wrong!
What like getting "old" ( I say this with tongue firmly in cheek as age doesn't stop most of the regulars cab burning me off no problem ) and having knackered knees and all manner of other ailments problems associated with a lifetime of climbing ? Heaven forbid folk should still be active climbers , whatever next .
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In reply to mike123:
Ha, yes - maybe you're right.
I think my opinion of the place was marred somewhat by the context surrounding my last visit, which consisting of driving to the Lakes on a primo forecast, only for the gearbox to fail as we entered Keswick. £2000 and no routes later we made a fleeting attempt to salvage the weekend at Bram Crag Quarry, but I think our minds were elsewhere. Even now it brings a tear to my eye...
Don't think there was a wet hold in the Lakes that weekend either!!
Ha, yes - maybe you're right.
I think my opinion of the place was marred somewhat by the context surrounding my last visit, which consisting of driving to the Lakes on a primo forecast, only for the gearbox to fail as we entered Keswick. £2000 and no routes later we made a fleeting attempt to salvage the weekend at Bram Crag Quarry, but I think our minds were elsewhere. Even now it brings a tear to my eye...
Don't think there was a wet hold in the Lakes that weekend either!!
In reply to petegunn:
Quite, but someone obviously doesn't like the idea of people enjoying mountain routes, or maybe they just don't like mountain routes - I really think we should be able to see who likes and dislikes posts!!
> A little bit of dirt under the fingernails never hurt anyone. : )
Quite, but someone obviously doesn't like the idea of people enjoying mountain routes, or maybe they just don't like mountain routes - I really think we should be able to see who likes and dislikes posts!!
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In reply to Dave Cumberland:
It might be the only reason he has for getting through the Pearly Gates
> Bram is a great venue, and the route creator deserves a medal for his endeavours.
It might be the only reason he has for getting through the Pearly Gates
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In reply to Rick Graham:
If I get a vote he's in, as he has some quality routes under his belt at a grade I could sometimes manage (unlike many of yours!).
If I get a vote he's in, as he has some quality routes under his belt at a grade I could sometimes manage (unlike many of yours!).
In reply to Rick Graham:
Indeed, but redemption is available to those who desire it!
DC
> It might be the only reason he has for getting through the Pearly Gates
Indeed, but redemption is available to those who desire it!
DC
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In reply to tmawer:
Goats crag is dirty, loose in places, very small and not worth the walk, in my opinion
Goats crag is dirty, loose in places, very small and not worth the walk, in my opinion
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In reply to Jim 1003:
hmm! Each to their own I guess....I enjoyed it (Goats Crag and the walk up) and consider most, but not all, of the bolting at Bramcrag fine whilst maintaining at times a nice sense of adventure.
hmm! Each to their own I guess....I enjoyed it (Goats Crag and the walk up) and consider most, but not all, of the bolting at Bramcrag fine whilst maintaining at times a nice sense of adventure.
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In reply to Jim 1003:
It's a great crag. It is dirty (although the classic routes are perfectly fine so long as you stay on route), like all Lakes crags (or all crags full stop?) it's loose in places, and while it may be "very small" compared to El Cap or the Verdon, at 60m it's certainly not "very small" by Lakes standards (unless you're talking about one of the other Goat Crags, e.g. the Watendlath one).
> Goats crag is dirty, loose in places, very small and not worth the walk, in my opinion
It's a great crag. It is dirty (although the classic routes are perfectly fine so long as you stay on route), like all Lakes crags (or all crags full stop?) it's loose in places, and while it may be "very small" compared to El Cap or the Verdon, at 60m it's certainly not "very small" by Lakes standards (unless you're talking about one of the other Goat Crags, e.g. the Watendlath one).
In reply to Jon Stewart:
It's Goats crag in my post and the one Tony referred to, which I replied to, you seem to be referring to Goat Crag.
It's Goats crag in my post and the one Tony referred to, which I replied to, you seem to be referring to Goat Crag.
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