UKC

Arete Direct, Simon's Seat

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 alan moore 26 Jun 2017
Inspired long ago by Steve Ashton's words about Ahab lashed to flanks of Moby Dick I made the long drive south to Barden. Then, after waiting all morning for the drizzle to clear I got spanked by the hard move at the top of this route.
Be interested to know how others did it? The green ramp on the left of the ridge didn't look very appealing and I spent ten minutes on the edge fumbling with a sticky out pebble and a shallow pocket at chest height in the front of the rib. Reaching right in Arete Wall felt like a cop-out and led to a lengthy excursion linking all the dry footholds on the west face and, ultimately, the ground.
Bit put out as up to that point it was clearly the best route of its grade on grit.
How did you do the crux fellow whalers?
 C Witter 27 Jun 2017
In reply to alan moore:
I saw this route a couple of years ago, and was very keen to have a go... Unfortunately, it didn't happen - we went over to Lord's Seat instead. Always wanted to go back for it, as it looks immense. One of those routes that captures the imagination, in a particular moment.

Maybe try whaling in better weather when smearing up might feel a bit more confidence inspiring...?!
Post edited at 16:48
Lusk 27 Jun 2017
In reply to alan moore:
Good route, as are most at Simon's Seat. "Climbing on a rigging of Grit above a sea of heather."
My vague memory from years ago was the step up on a sloper near the top.
Trust those booties, trust those booties!


quote (or close to) from the 1969 (I think) Yorkshire Gritstone guide. One with Alan Austin on Beeline at Rocky Valley on the front.
Post edited at 17:19
OP alan moore 28 Jun 2017
In reply to C Witter:

> - we went over to Lord's Seat instead.

I did the same in the end. Lord's Seat was a lot cleaner. Steppin' Out was really good. Great view and Golden Plovers for company.

OP alan moore 28 Jun 2017
In reply to Lusk:


> My vague memory from years ago was the step up on a sloper near the top.

Thanks: I'm sure I just ran out of bottle. The slopers looked impossibly slopey after 5 years away from the grit!
Still say it would be a lot harder than the likes of Apple ArĂȘte or Hargreaves Origonal.
Probably should stay out of Yorkshire....

 LakesWinter 28 Jun 2017
In reply to alan moore:

Did it in April and you're right it is superb. I think I just smeared up and whaled over, although I do remember it being a bit tricky. Go back, try it another time, I'm sure you'll get it then.
 Simon Caldwell 28 Jun 2017
In reply to Lusk:

> My vague memory from years ago was the step up on a sloper near the top.

That's my memory as well

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