UKC

Hi

Heading to Cham in 3 weeks was planning to do the midi plan traverse and frendo but with temps the way they are I wonder if the ice sections are super black or just dangerous

Any intel greatly appreciated .

Thanks

In reply to kingjam:

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/ac2/news/chamonix-condtions

In reply to glaramara:

Thanks great links , confirmed my fears

In reply to kingjam:

Chillax. Forecast for over 2m of snow to go down over next couple of days in Vallais (where I'm going!). Over a 1m in cham too. Hopefully all will come back in again once it settles down.

In reply to glaramara:

How do you think that'll affect route choice for this Friday/Saturday? My partner and I are in Cham till Sun but don't know what routes will be viable following the dump.

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

I'd escape and go rock climbing elsewhere.....

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

Not that I'm an expert, and u may have done it, but the Midi traverse is an obvious choice. Great route, don't listen to the nay-sayers!

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:
A cursory glance at the tourism office weather forecast would suggest that there is little prospect of climbing anything at altitude then, unless you wish to climb through a snowstorm on top of existing fresh snow.

It all looks pretty filthy.

Les Houches climbing wall might be in order, followed by the luge in a rain coat, then a burger at Poco Loco.

Full on olden days weather

In reply to HammondR:

Yes, tomorrow and Thursday look postively awful weather wise. We're going to Les Houches wall tomorrow. But the forecast for Friday and Saturday is looking pretty decent (atleast where I'm looking) and so I was wondering whether it would even be worth attempting routes higher up following the snow dump (e.g. on the Triangle du Tacul) or just sticking to rock routes lower down on the Index for example.

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

Be very careful on the the Triangle the day after a big snow dump.

In reply to BarneyLoosemore:

What Niblet says. Tacul not really the place to be after a large dump of snow.