UKC

Hi, we are flying to the Dolomites from the US, looking to do mostly bolted/semi-bolted, and classic trad routes.
I'm trying to minimize gear in case of luggage trouble... did some research but I wonder if someone has more input.

1) What cams should we bring? I am bringing nuts and small tricams. I was hoping to get away with just 4-5 cams to 1" or 2", maybe doubles in .5"-.75"? I am comfortable running it out above a bolt on easy terrain (~4c-5a French).

2) For cragging, can one get away with comfy shoes? Usually limestone has pretty big footholds in my experience. For sport up to 6b+/6c or so, would you recommend bringing aggressive edging shoes for tiny footholds, or can I get away with the same shoes used for multipitch (TC Pro-s).

3) If a route says A0 + obligatory grade blah (e.g. Roberta 83), does A0 generally mean "pulling on draws" or does one need aid gear?

I've listed the routes that are not completely bolted below if someone knows stuff from a glance and is kind enough to glance
Vajolet --- Piaz Arete
Vajolet, Porto Niegre --- Via Del Rifugio
Piz Ciavazes --- Big Micheluzzi
Sella Towers --- Delenda Carthago
Piccolo Lagazuoi --- Via Orizzonti di Gloria
Falzarego, Col de Bos --- Via Alvera
Tofana di Roses --- Aspettando la Vetta
Tre Cime, Val Rienza --- Spitagoras
Tre Cime, Cima Piccola --- Spigolo Giallo
Cinque Torre, Cima Ovest --- Via Olga
Cinque Torre, Cima Ovest --- Via delle Guide
Cinque Torre, Cima Sud --- Via Miriam
Misurina, Punta Col De Varda --- Comici Northwest Corner
Croda da Lago --- Re Artu
Croda da Lago --- Nikibi
Croda da Lago, Cima Cason di Formin --- Diedro Dallago

In reply to sershe:

Generally we recommend to clients at they take a much slimmer rack than normal as on trade routes there is usually alot of fixed gear - pins and threads etc. I normally take 0.4-2 sized camalots and a set of WC Ultralight and superlight rocks plus a bunch of thin dyneema slings for threading. Maybe 12 draws for harder routes and a yellow and blue TCU/mastercam. Tricams can be useful especially for dissolution pockets but not so useful that I'd make a special effort to bring them. Lots of sling draws though as gear tends to be where yo can get it rather than where you want it if you know what I mean...

As for shoes, don't really know - I only own one pair of shoes!

A0+ is "french free" so pulling on a draw or standing in a sling.

Of the routes I recognise on your list, they are alpine trad with hardly any bolts at all, but plenty of fixed gear...

In reply to sershe:

Last time I went I mostly used my lace up Anasazis. 'Comfy' climbing shoes should get you by for most of the roots out there, but I'm not sure I'd generalise them all as big footholds. I only popped on my more aggressive shoes for some hard slabs I wanted to try.

In reply to sershe:
We did Schubert/Route of Friendship (VI-) which I can highly recommend.

You probably want about a set and a half of nuts for the trad routes and a bunch of cams. We found a couple of hexes handy but both of us like them on limestone / Dolomite crozzly cracks where cams don't always seat well. In general the Dolomite is more cam friendly than limestone and has a bit more friction (although it can still polish pretty badly). I carried some tricams too although my partner didn't use them. I found some good placements where nothing else would go in.

Slings are very useful, especially these that are cut resistant (many threads have sharp edges) and stiff for threading http://www.joe-brown.com/21602/products/edelrid-6mm-x-120cm-aramid-cord-sli...

Most the routes avoid the need for specialist thin or wide gear with pegs and its very common to find well maintained pegs on the cruxes of routes and often more than one to clip!

In reply to sershe:

I'd have thought your TC Pros are capable of climbing beyond 6c?

In reply to Toerag:

Well, they do, but sometimes (on granite in some places with micro flakes and chips for feet, or even some basalt e.g. main areas in Smith Rock) stiff tight shoes make it so much easier to stand on stuff.

In reply to sershe:

Well put it this way, the Dolomites aren't reknowned for their friction slopers. If you can stand all day in your edging shoes then do it. Or leave your edging shoes behind and buy a pair when you're out there - prices are cheaper in europe are they not?