UKC

I've never been to Pembroke and I'm thinking of going for a weekend soon.

As it is my first time and somewhere that I won't be able to visit that often, I was wondering if anyone wanted to recommend an area to base myself with a good number of 2* and 3* S-VS routes, and if you can recommend some routes too that would be great!

Thanks!

In reply to BStar:

First pick a rock type. High quality sandstone to the north around St Davids, or limestone further south. Both are excellent.

Being a slab climber type I'm very keen on the coast around penally. Lots of slabby headlands with routes up to about VS. Becks Point and Rusty Point would be good options there. Lots of good steeper stuff in range east as well, but I haven't explored it quite so much.

For the sandstone area you could do a lot worse than starting at Porthclais and working your way along the coast.

Ab is required at most crags so take a spare rope and a few extra bits for rigging. Most places have stakes but it's always worth backing them up if possible.

In reply to BStar:

Here's a ticklist of the best Pembroke routes in the HS - HVS bracket I compiled a while back, you won't go far wrong with any of these (be aware of range and bird restrictions on some routes though).
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1592
My suggestions for a first visit would be a day on the Sandstone near St. Davids, Caerfai Bay has some pleasant warm ups for Armorican (VS 4c) which is an uber classic (base tidal), could be combined with a quick hit on Carreg-y-Barcud Area for the excellent Metamorphosis (HS 4b).
Next day catch some Limestone at Saddle Head lots of fun pitches there off the mid height ledge, Sea Mist (HS 4a) is particularly good. Alongside there is the longer route Blue Sky (VS 4b) which is mind blowing and at the easy end of VS, again the base is tidal (though you can ab in and start from higher ledges).
Less than 10 minutes walk away you could also take in the excellent Myola (HS 4b) in the mouth of Huntsman's Leap, a really atmospheric pitch at the grade.
If you want a really relaxing day then the Giltar area near Tenby has some great routes like Giltar Slab Route (S 4a) and The Mark of the Arch (S 4a) (easy climbing, but tidal and requiring a little nous to rig a secure abseil).

In reply to BStar:

The two main climbing areas, Castlemartin and St Davids peninsulas are about 45 minutes drive apart but it's worth sampling both. St Davids has more scenic variety and the sandstone slabs are very friendly and a good place to push your grades.
The south coast limestone is steeper and more spectacular but with easy routes like Bow Shaped Slab and Deidre Sud being as good as anywhere. Used to get hideously crowded at Easter and then deserted in the summer time.
Mother Carey's further east is pretty butch but with enough in the vicinity to fill a day if the tides are right.