UKC

Hi, I've been climbing for a few years now and I enjoy abseiling. I'm a novice top-rope climber but I'm very safety conscious. I'm used to anchoring to solid hooks or some other piece of metal that has been safely placed there by a kind pro in the past. If I can't climb it I'll have fun abseiling down it.

I'm wondering what the highest abseil and climbs are in the Lancashire area. The highest I've at least attempted climbing to date is The Golden Tower at Anglezarke Quarry, Chorley, and The Prow at Wilton 1, Bolton. Does anyone know of any higher ones than these that have solid reliable anchoring points at the top please?

Kind regards,
Pete

In reply to n3p:

I'm not keen on abseiling for the sake of it because it's really a means to an end rather than a sport in it's own right. It can damage routes on some types of rock, can interfere with people wanting to climb up on a crag, and statistically it is one of the more dangerous things that climbers/mountaineers do with a potential for things to go wrong.

If you really want to do more, then why not take up sea cliff climbing where abseiling is often the only means of accessing the base? Sea stack climbing where abseiling is the only means of escape or descent? Or Alpine mountaineering where abseiling is often a method of quick descent and safer than trying to down climb when time matters?

In reply to n3p:

You've placed some "solid hooks" there Monsieur Troll.

In reply to n3p:

I'll probably get slammed for this, but Hoghton Quarry, providing the complex access requirements are observed is a wild place to do anything (taller than that place you went the other day that we shan't speak of again). It'd be best to steer clear of the King Lines though if possible for the reasons stated by others. However, the limited access to this venue is probably the greatest element protecting the rock from erosion. Beware of Velociraptors

In reply to The Ivanator:

Would be nice if trolling could be more explicitly discouraged in the Starting Out forum. This is a place where people give up their time to offer detailed and helpful advice, and those people really shouldn't have to be wasting their time wondering whether it's a genuine question or, like this one, a timewasting troll.

In reply to john arran:

Sorry but I don't understand why this is being considered a troll. Surely its natural for someone starting out not to necessarily know all climbing parlance, if you're referring to the hooks reference. However, its also possible I may have misunderstood the concept of trolling in this context and should perhaps attend a social media starting out forum on another site.

In reply to Mark Collins:

The OP could easily post again if there's been some fluke, random interruption of the nature of the internet and it was in fact a genuine question. Look out for bacon overhead.

In reply to john arran:

Ha ha, will do

In reply to john arran:

Hi, I really do appreciate any advice that the more experienced are kind enough to give me on here, but if you're going to comment then please post something positive that may actually be of some help instead of slating every climber that is just starting out. Not cool dude!

In reply to Trangia:

Oh get off your high horse. Why should someone have less right to abseil than climb. Probably because you prefer climbing right?

In reply to n3p:


Mighty be worth checking the guidebook before you decide to abseil down a route. I think the Lancashire guide advises not to abseil off The Golden Tower.

In reply to Trangia:

Hi, thanks for taking time out to give me advice on abseiling. I would love to try sea cliff climbing I'll give it a go in the near future. I was unaware that abseiling is frowned upon so much by the climbing community. I usually just setup the top rope then abseil down before spending the rest of the day climbing. Abseiling down to start gives my mates and I more confidence when climbing back up as the anchor point has already been tested and we all know it can be fully relied on. Unfortunately for the moment it's not possible to travel far out and I was hoping for someplace more local. I visited Denham Quarry yesterday which has a few decent high climbs. It's a great suntrap. I'll keep searching and hopefully I'll find someplace similar and higher.

Thanks again,
Pete

In reply to The Ivanator:

Hillarious! Grow up...

In reply to n3p:

Exactly what sort of pre-placed 'hooks' are you looking for ? because ones that are placed at the top of routes usually in the form of loops attached with bolts or set in resin, aren't usually accessible for setting up an abseil from above. I'm struggling to think of anywhere where you could walk to the top and rig an abseil as you describe to be honest.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Hi Mark, many thanks for the suggestion. This is just the kind of place I've been looking for and it's not too far either which is a huge bonus. I see it's only allowing access til the end of this month so I'll pay it a visit soon as. Will also check with the BMC regarding Velociraptor restrictions before I do go

Thanks again,
Pete

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Hi, thanks for pointing that out. I'd noticed this in the guidebook previously and was also advised by another kind member to avoid abseiling The Golden Tower, hence my reason for the query. I'm staying away from here until the end of August after the nesting owls have fled.

Thanks again,
Pete

In reply to n3p:

I abseiled off it too, to get a stuck wire left by my second, didn't see it in the guidebook until afterwards. Oops. :/

In reply to GrahamD:

Hi, I could be wrong but after a little googling I think they're called sport climbing anchors. I've seen them placed around the top of Egerton Quarry in Bolton. Please see the following link, the anchors are the same if not very similar.

https://fthmb.tqn.com/riNLOJaSQopXFiyyios1LDNGqbw=/1500x1000/filters:no_ups...

Kind regards,
Pete

In reply to n3p:

OK, so appears apologies in order for the Troll call - there did appear a number of triggers in the OP just looking to set people off, but clearly I misread the signs.
Sport climbing anchors as illustrated in your last post are usually placed near the top of the vertical cliff face and are difficult or impossible to safely access from above - the intention is that you climb to them.

In reply to n3p:

Plenty of trees to abseil off at the top of Trowbarrow's main wall......

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

No, because abseiling down routes repeatedly causes lots of wear and damage to the climbing holds so accepted best practice is to abseil down artificial structures in order to purely take part in abseiling. So I suggest that you stop jumping to conclusions, there was no high horse, just a sensible p.o.v from Trangia.

In reply to n3p:

Unfortunately for what you are looking for most sport climbing anchors are below the top of the cliff so the rope runs cleanly when someone lowers off them. Therefore they are difficult to set up an abseil from from above.

In reply to LakesWinter:

Climbing damages the rock plenty. Let's ban that too as not to damage our national parks. Unless you're just a biased climber?

In reply to radddogg:

Abseiling on the Main Wall is not allowed (maybe for a stuck nut, but not in general)... See guide and signage...!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi and thankyou! I apologise also I didn't mean to come across as a troll. This seems quite a touchy subject perhaps I should have been a little more specific in my OP.


Maybe that's the reason why I've only seen them at top of Egerton Quarry routes and nowhere else. I'll either use the loops mentioned or metal poles that have been hammered in, which I see quite often. If you know of any high top roping spots with the metal poles at the top I'd love to go visit.

Kind regards,
Pete

In reply to radddogg:


Hi, thanks raddogg. I came across Trowbarrow's while searching online the other day. With what I've learned on here I'll avoid abseiling but it looks a great place for climbing. Thanks for the invaluable info regarding there only being trees to anchor on to, I was not aware there wasn't any metal anchors at the top you've saved me a wasted trip. I'll make sure to purchase some more equipment before I do go, I currently only have a 10m static rope and a 1m adjustable sling so I'm a bit limited at the moment to places that don't require much rope.

Thanks again,
Pete

In reply to GrahamD:

Thanks, could you please recommend a high climb that has metal poles hammered in at the top, or very strong routed trees I can rely on? There's been a couple great spots suggested so far, those being Houghton Quarry and Trowbarrow's.

In reply to C Witter:

It was a joke!

Incidentally I saw someone gearing up to abseil down a few weeks ago and shouted up to him. He ignored me and carried on. As he got closer I shouted again and he said he'd hurt his ankle. Funny, it didn't seem to affect his climbing on Harijan!

In reply to n3p:

Sorry, n3p, Trowbarrow was a joke, definitely do not abseil there.

If you must, you could try Denham, Warton crag is very high, ideally you could find some viaducts?

In reply to n3p:

Egerton. Gallows Pole Area. Take a nut key and give it a clean on the way down.

In reply to radddogg:



Warton!? Main Quarry is definitely one of the worst places to abseil, particularly for a novice. It's probably taller than a rope length, extremely loose in most parts and has high angle debris above the rock faces. It's also bird restricted just now. The Upper and Pinnacle Crags aren't suitable for abbing either. Warton Small Quarry would be OK and also Cragfoot - you won't annoy anyone at either venue.

In reply to n3p:

Can I apologize for you on behalf of the adults here. 6 dislikes on a starting out forum post and accusations of trolling is shameful for UKC and the exact opposite of what this particular forum is supposed to be about. Despite this, some of the replies are very useful.

As for the troll accusers ... if you suspect abuse use the report abuse button.... those genuinely trolling this forum are going to have to work very hard not to get a ban. There is no need to reply on a starting out thread making such accusations.

In reply to radddogg:


Hi, that's quite alright it's good to have a little humour. I tried Denham a couple days ago it's a great place. Viaducts is not a bad idea there's quite a few in walking distance, I look into that. Roughly how high are the climbs at Warton crag please? I wasn't able to find much info on this crag, either here or at Lancashirerock.

Thanks in advance

In reply to J1234:


Hi, Egerton is a decent place I visited here a few months back but it was really overgrown at the time so I haven't been back since. I've recently been considering paying it another visit though soon, I'll post an update in the logbooks of any routes I manage to clean up.

In reply to Lankyman:


Noted! Thanks for the safety info.

In reply to Offwidth:

Hi, that's very considerate of you and yes most of the replies are very helpful. Thanks for the tip I'll keep that in mind on my next post.

Kind regards,
Pete

In reply to n3p:

Evil Wall at Lester Mill Quarry may be worth a look at....another one were a bit of cleaning of routes might be welcomed as you abseiled. Unclear if there are belay stakes above it, though others may know.

In reply to n3p:


Sorry, I was thinking you wanted the longest abseils. The routes are around 60 metres at Warton. In places yes the anchors might be sparse but on the whole there are trees across a lot of it.

Someone mentioned Lester Mill Quarry. That's a good shout. I've read that there are abseil points there.

In reply to tmawer:

Thanks, this is another I've been meaning to visit, it's only up the road. I'll post an update in the logbook if there's belay stakes above Evil Wall.

In reply to radddogg:


60 metres sounds way too good to miss I'll defo be paying Warton a visit in the near future after I've added to my kit. It's good to know about the loose rocks though I'll make sure to wear head protection just in case

In reply to n3p:

Someone mentioned above that Warton is bird banned at present, check the bmc's regional access database for the dates.

In reply to n3p:

I think the reason that the responses to your post have been a bit mixed is because this is a climbing website and most climbers regard abbing as a necessary evil and we cannot comprehend how anyone would see it as something to do for its own sake. This is largely because when you've done one ab you've really done them all. When you've learned how to do it that's all there is - no skills to improve, new techniques to learn, experience to gain, harder ones to attempt, and so on. While climbing with many folk becomes a lifetime's passion people aren't going to go on abbing for very long.
The other problem for many climbers is that they are only too well aware of how many fatal accidents have occurred abbing. If you don't do up your harness correctly and climb a route without falling you survive. Many of us have done it. When abbing you are in a sense always falling, so things like that, including unsafe anchors, loose rock, abbing off the end of the rope tend to be fatal.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

While I agree with you Rog, it's horses for courses. I cannot for the life of me fathom why people spend hours, days even, staring at a luminous float bobbing up and down in a pond but millions live and breathe angling.

In reply to n3p:

Blackpool Tower is probably the highest abseil in Lancs

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Its a skill Dave has made me practice and I am just back from the Dollies and have been making multiple abseils, 60metre ones and hanging and all things inbetween, so I do think its something that a climber should have wired. Everytime and I mean everytime I make an abseil I think of something you told me, and make sure I know where the ends are, double check through belay loop, double check gate screwed up, weight the device then check again before launching.

In reply to spenser:


Thanks I just checked, restrictions are lifted tomorrow

In reply to Rog Wilko:


Hi, thanks for your concern. I started off bouldering and now top roping has become my new passion. I'm still quite new to it and once I've anchored up I like to abseil down before spending the rest of the day climbing. I'm still getting to know what's acceptable by the climbing community. Could you please tell me if after I've setup, should I climb back down in order to climb back up, completely avoiding any kind of abseil or is it acceptable to abseil down just the once?

I've a few mates I'm trying to get interested in the activity, and they're saying they'd prefer to do abseiling to start off. I actually prefer climbing way more.

Cheers in advance!

In reply to newhey:


That sounds like great fun! Thanks, I'll look into it