UKC

We're off to Chamonix in a few weeks for 12 days. Guide books are being scoured, but I thought it might be worth consulting the UKC collective wisdom for routes that we might overlook. Last year we managed the Frendo spur and are probably looking for something similar. I think the ideal route would be 2 days (happy to bivi), a decent amount of rock (up to say HVS or French free a bit harder), a bit of snow or ice, though given the conditions this year, nothing too taxing. We've been looking at the Grand Montets ridge on Aiguille Verte which seems to fit the bill. Any other suggestions ? Thanks in advance.

In reply to phildavies84:
July / August mixed is hard to get in condition as you say.

GM ridge is meant to be really good, not particularly hard but long and committing. We got to the notch after the Carree and had to bail due to the weather coming in sooner than forecast. Downclimbed into the Argie basin - doable but a bit dicey in places and not to be recommended! It was already pretty slow going to there as there was snow on the route. So make sure you have good weather and conditions for it...

Innominata is mixed, long and committing. Staying at the Eccles you can travel relatively light.

If you're looking at rock, consider the Gervasutti. A long day route with a straightforward desert.

South Ridge of the Noire is a day route for the wads, otherwise two long days. Fair few decent bivvy ledges on the upper part of the ridge. Lack of water is definitely an issue. Descent is choss and not to be underestimated.

Cham Aiguilles traverse is a very long day for wads or more like three days for ordinary mortals. Fair few good bivvy ledges throughout, some with snow unless it's been really hot. Route finding is challenging and there are some exciting abseils. Check my log here for some tips. Check with the OHM re the state of the Nantillons glacier for the descent.

There's also the Jorasses traverse, which is mostly snow with some mixed and rock, plus a bivvy hut - which can get full! The descent is a route in its own right and takes forever.

Then there's the Drus traverse, all rock with a fair bit of abseiling. Check with the OHM / hut re the glacier approach and descent.

All of the above are fairly serious and require the ability to just keep going. Good forecast essential as well.

Enjoy!

In reply to phildavies84:

Easier than you're looking for but great fun and seems to get overlooked is the Bionnassay-Gouter traverse from the Durier hut - easy rock up to Bionnassay summit then proper knife-edge ridge traverse with big drops either side
You could also do the Dome de Miages from the Conscrits as an easy first day and if you leave the Durier very early & feel fit also take in Mont Blanc (very long day)

In reply to Carless:

Agreed. Durier to the summit a very fine way to get to the top, avoiding the gouter circus.

Dômes wearing fast (as of today).

In reply to phildavies84:

Thanks very much for the suggestions. Will let you know how we get on. We've got a back up plan of hiring a car and heading over the matterhorn if conditions are kind. Its been a bit of a failed goal on the last few trips.