UKC

Having read recently that visting Austrian Barbara Zangerl has climbed Muy Caliente E10 6c and Big Issue E9 6c and some other E8's in Pembroke I was wondering is this one of the most impressive trad climbing trips in the UK? Also is she one of the greatest trad climbers ever having also sent Gondo Crack an 8c trad route.

In reply to JoeFoster59:

Well, that's pretty impressive eh?! I hadn't known about this, so cheers for posting.

Photos on her Instagram feed: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWBNb9Bjos_/?taken-by=barbarazangerl&hl=en

D.

In reply to JoeFoster59:
Unsung legend, that lady! Super impressive!

In reply to JoeFoster59:

I think Muy Caliente is now considered E9, still very impressive. Sounds like Big Issue was climbed placing gear on lead as well:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWHkXm7jNbM/?taken-by=barbarazangerl&hl=en

Must be the best sequence of trad ascents ever by a women in the UK , multiple E8s and E9s headpointed and a E7/8 flash

In reply to JoeFoster59:

Amazing ascent. First female ascent of E10 in the UK?

Worth remembering that Beth Rodden did Meltdown 8c+ trad on very small gear years ago that I think has not been repeated?

In reply to zmv:
Yeah I've heard about that route apparently one of the routes in the world possibly E11 stellar ascent by Beth. I did mention Barbara has also done an 8c trad route called Gondo Crack and with a sport grade of 8c I think it would probably warrant an E10 grade. But who knows.

In reply to Ian Patterson:

Yeah I heard Dave Mcleod did his thing and suggested it was a soft E10. But yeah still mighty impressive 2 E9s in one trip and multiple E8s absolute beast.

In reply to zmv:


Isn't that because most blokes can't fit their fingers in it?

In reply to JoeFoster59:


And Steve Mac repeated it at E9 (he also did the Mawson E10 Choronzon on same trip).

Note, definitely not being negative about these achievements, super impressive ticking so many hard routes and sounds like in great style. Don't think big issue has had many ascents placing all the gear.

In reply to Toerag:


Or maybe because it's 8c+ on gear?

Cracks are always a bit specific to finger or hand size, but how many men have tried it? And have any other women tried it?

In reply to Ian Patterson:
Oh cool didn't realise Steve had done it that's another amazing ticklist. Yeah there has only being a couple of ascents of Big Issue placing gear Ali Kennedy and Yuji I think. Maybe Jacopo Larcher or Roland Hemetzberger did it on gear on their recent trip.

In reply to JoeFoster59:

Pleased to see this thread, I was going to start a similar one myself. How her recent achievements in Pembrokeshire haven't been covered in a front page UKC news feature I don't know. Amongst the other stories on display of late (nothing wrong with them), surely this is top drawer UKclimbing news? Perhaps there is an interview on its way - hope so - deserves more coverage. I was lucky to see her in Huntsman's Leap and had no idea until I saw her twitter feed the other day that she'd sent Muy Caliente and The Big Issue as well! Come on UKC, let's see this celebrated.

In reply to JoeFoster59:

youtube.com/watch?v=ugS2YRV0PLs&

In reply to JoeFoster59:
To me it seems like she's one of the best trad climbers full stop, rather than just one of the best female trad climbers. As far as high E numbers go.

In reply to stickyfeet:
We have been in touch with Babsi and Jacopo since they arrived in the UK. They have agreements which require them to provide information to sponsors for first release. Report coming as soon as we receive details from the climbers.

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Oh brilliant I assumed as such. Looking forward to the UKC report.

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Ah great, thanks for taking time to reply Natalie and for the insight.. I suppose in the world of social media some of us are perhaps too used to reading instant news and after all it's not like we have a right to immediately know all the behind the scenes details of someone else's climbs! I suppose given the scale and depth of the achievements I was just surprised at the lack of coverage everywhere, not just on UKC. Its good to know a report is coming and I look forward to reading it