UKC

Hello UKC,

Heading for the Bernese Oberland in a week's time and hoping someone can help with current conditions on any of the classic 4000m routes. I'm not asking "will route X be in condition", just a general overview from anyone who's there now or just returned?

Secondly (and much more specifically), can anyone tell me if the SW ridge on the Monch is equipped with any fixed gear? Trying to shave a few grams from my rack!

Much appreciated,
Ben

In reply to d80f0u:

Hi Ben, climbed the Schreckhorn and Lauteraarhorn yesterday. Glacier approaches and snow couloirs pretty well filled in and well frozen in the morning, rock ridges dry. Monch, etc, looked refreshingly white from where we were. Phil (guide)

In reply to d80f0u:

There was (precisely) one piton 20 years ago on the crucial pitch. I doubt there is anything more now. Take a few slings and a couple of nuts.

In reply to MG:


It was the same in 2014 - just a single piton (or maybe a bolt, can't remember) on the crux pitch.