/ UKC FitClub week 539

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Dandan82 - on 16 Jul 2017
FitClub Week 539

Hello FitClubbers!

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=667242

Last Weeks Posters:

The Fasting - I always thought one-arm push ups were a bit of a party trick, is there a ‘proper’ technique to do them well?
Hms - Do you ever rest?! Another apparently big volume week, although are your trips to Armistice a lot of hanging around and not much actual climbing maybe?
AJM - Looking forward to the full write up, facebook told me a couple of highlights. ;)
Tyler - Love Siurana, have a good one! Be good to see some goals, even rudimentary ones
Planetmarshall - Love that your goals cover sport, trad, bouldering, winter and, er, alpine? What’s an ED?
Ally Smith - awesome video, very well done! Gresham says a month, but do you believe him?
Hokkyokusei - 23m 5k is very impressive, you think you have more in the tank to improve it?
AlanLittle - More of the easy steep ground for confidence I reckon, no replacement for time on rock. It must be nice to have it nearby! Would you like any recommendations for Kaly routes?
The sheep - Hope you burnt off the family on Sunday, what else is all that training for?!
Dandan82 - All rest and no play make Dandan something something…
Biscuit - And the award for obscure STG goes to biscuit for “swim in a lake”
Just Tintin - Being able to see your house from a climbing location is just not on. Jealous.
Mattrm - Don’t think you’ll keep up the outdoor trad? Or just that crag?
Alx - Sounds like you are doing the progressions right, absolutely rock solid at one stage before moving to the next.
TheFasting on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

One-arm push-ups require a lot of strength, but there isn't any particular reason to need to do them climbing-wise, just another new thing to try to do and another level of strength to get to. You need a lot of tricep strength for the push, and core strength to not tip over. It's just another way to get some volume in while doing something new and fun.

M - Climbing at Hell. Thought I'd go on a 5- route I hadn't done before and do that one before I tried what has ended up being my "project", Ekstremsport (n5). So I tried Shrek (n5-), and due to fear and being weak I didn't make it up that one either. Spent the whole session trying to dog my way up my "warm-up", so this caused me to re-evaluate my training strategy.

Decided after a few days of thinking and posting a thread here (where for some reason I was asked if I actually wanted to climb or just pretend I'm a climber or something, also the usual "don't train strength or you'll be heavy" myth), and got some good tips. Ended up deciding that to actually improve I need to learn how to use my feet outdoors, so toproping mostly, and only leading what I feel comfortable with. Not trying to desperately get up the grade ladder, and just accept that this will take a long long long time.

T - I was going to the gym, but didn't have time.

2 sets of 20 "uneven" push-ups (one arm to the side and elevated to get into something similar to an assisted one-arm push-ups position).
L-sits (tucked l-sit for 15 sec) and hollow body holds (could only get 10 sec)
Tried to work on getting a wall headstand, made some progress but decided to just work on handstands instead to avoid injuring my neck.
Crow pose (10 sec)

W: First bouldering for 1.5 hour. Did some f5 flashes and mostly focused on getting a lot of volume in. Tried the "quiet feet" drill and it changed my flow and overall climbing technique a lot more than I thought it would. Sticking with that now.

- Squats, 65kg x 8, 70 kg x 8, 80 kg x 12 for the AMRAP
- Close grip bench: 60 kg 3 sets of 10
- Dumbbell walking lunge: 20 kg 3 sets of 12
- Weighted pull-ups: 25 kg, 4 sets of 2. 5 second eccentric.

T: Was going to do cardio but was too busy

F: Was going to the gym but was too busy.

- Half one-arm push-up: Did 2 sets of 1 rep on both arms. That's too heavy for me now so going back to uneven push-ups and working on getting less assistance from the supporting arm.

- Tuck L-sits (25 sec, new PR)

- Hollow body hold (25 sec ish, new PR)

Sa: Climbing at Hell, at a different sector this time. Focused on top-roping and footwork. Did very well, flashed Omvendt Z (n5) on toprope, my hardest outdoor climb yet.

Also tried a lot of n6 and n6+ climbs on top-rope, and actually climbed ground up through the crux on an n6+ (Kosinuet (n6+)). Had I figured out the top beta it would have been a 4-5 grade jump on the flash attempt.

Basically this session I focused on just learning how to climb and mileage, and not necessarily getting to the top or any particular milestones. Worked well. Still chickened out on the one lead I did, but that one was very sandbagged compared to the harder climbs I did.

Su:

Deadlifts: 80 kg x 8, 90 kg x 8, 97.5 kg x 15. AMRAP was 80 kg x 6

Bench press: 60 kg x 8, 70 kg x 8, 75 kg x 10. AMRAP was 60 kg x 10.

Weighed pull-ups: New 1RM, 37.5 kg for 3 sets of 1.
Tyler - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:
> Be good to see some goals, even rudimentary ones
Cheers Dan, I may have over promised saying I'd have something to post up here but let's get started.
STG: This week - three short runs, three climbing sessions, try to get my eating under control (no point making weight loss goals when I'm starting running, usually results in weight gain).
MTG: Myra Hindley (7c) General mobility improvement
LTG: Dec trip L'escamarlà (7c+), Mandrágora (7b+)

M: Nowt, feet still blistered from London
T: First after work trip of the year, possibly two. Bolt to bolt on Myra, first go got through crux from ground. Astonished as I've only ever managed the move about twice in two previous sessions, needless to say I never managed it again that session.
W: Making a scarecrow.
T: Short run
F: Back to Kilnsey, almost exact repeat of Tuesday except managed from break to top at end of session.
S: Parents visit, short run
S: Parents visit, one hour at CyL, good to bump into Ally.
Post edited at 21:48
AJM - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> AJM - Looking forward to the full write up, facebook told me a couple of highlights. ;)

Cheers Dan.

So, taking it from the top:
Friday - https://www.strava.com/activities/1087027605 - 34km or so from Birmingham out to Walton Hill, which has an evilly steep cobbled section on it which was a highlight of the Tour of the Black Country which I missed out on earlier this year. A ride which felt a lot tougher than the stats would suggest. Walton Hill is brilliant if desperate. I fell off trying to transition between cobble lanes but thats all part of the joy of it.
Saturday - Churnet with Si. Mainly trying Propellerhead (f7A) which is excellent. 5 goes or something, got to the last move once with no beans left and once where I made the throw but didn't hold it.
Sunday - Churnet again. A bit of variety to start then back to Propellerhead at the end. 2 goes, first one I hit but didn't hold the last hold and after that I faded fast, second go was rubbish.
Monday - walking round the slate quarries after the rain cleared. Explored some bits I hadn't been to before.
Tuesday - rain all day. Book reading and shopping and the like.
Wednesday - The Sheep Pen. Excellent crag in an awesome location. Bit of a slog up the hill with miniAJM and all the kit. Dog Shooter (V4) was excellent, and to my surprise I flashed Toe Dragon (V5). Also tried Kingdom Of Rain (V6), which is hard, and the linkup Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter (V7) which I think needed more beta to work out how to release a heel I became very dependent on.
Thursday - up on the hillside above Ynws, at Wavelength Boulders. Big tick of the day was King Of Drunks (V6) which I've wanted to try for ages. Once I found the good bit it felt comparatively ok (a lot different from KoR).
Friday - getting a bit tired now. Short session on Wavelength Boulders doing some easy but high things. Lots of faff committing to one of them on my own. Then a break, then another short session on Cromlech boulders trying The Edge Problem (NWB Roadside P2) (V5). I've tried to pull onto this on and off over the years - its right there after all - and never made any progress. I didn't get the tick this time but at least I was getting the thin pocket and trying to move up from there. Looked at Jerry's Roof (f7C) on my way past and concluded that I probably can't hold the positions let alone move between them.
Saturday - wedding
Sunday - drive home

A good week. I got some decent climbing done, tried and ticked some hard-ish stuff, and had a nice holiday. A bit difficult at times, we definitely had some moments where it was all seeming like a lot of work, but well worth it overall
biscuit - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan.

But on the plus side I achieved that goal This Summer is very much about fitting in as many things that make me feel happy as I can. I've not been for a wild swim for ages and it was ace.

A good week - though as usual it is now to be followed by a week or two of no climbing. Kids off school and a physio placement to do.

Had a boulder at The Depot on Thursday. Got a few more problems. Deffo no more are possible so leave it there now. One I had ignored as not doable I ended up giving a go as i'd finished early (due to not being able to do any others) and promptly got it second go. Just goes to show you've always got to give them a go. Score was 230 something.

Friday I got to St Bees after years away. The tide was way in, it was overcast, the floor was slippy and footholds were slimy and I loved it as mush as ever. Ran (or slid) around like a kid in a sweet shop and did about 15 problems V1-V5 (most twice) in the first hour. I was tired then. I tried a V4 I could never get before and I still can't. But I can do the first move everytime which I couldn't before. Did all the moves on headbanger but not brave enough to go for it with my one small pad. Flipping love that place. Meal out an numerous beers. Great day.

Saturday I ended up running around Whinlatter orienteering course (long story) followed by a swim in a surprisingly warm Bassenthwaite.

Sunday I had coaching work and was feeling a bit tired tbh. Had a climb after mainly up in the tall wall. 6a+-6b+ warm ups and then a 7a attempt (fail) 6b on Mammut and then a coupe of goes on a steep 7a. As usual first go was good, second was bobbins and then went for beer and chips.

Despite beers and chips weight and bodyfat are still consistently coming down.

This week i'm having a boulder outdoors somewhere tomorrow eve and then trad on Tuesday.

AlanLittle - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

STG: book flights for Kalymnos; sort out partners for UK visit in August
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

> AlanLittle - More of the easy steep ground for confidence I reckon

Tried to get on some harder steep ground too soon instead, with discouraging results. In hindsight, probably should have been a rest week.

M: Rest
T: Max hangs & shoulder antagonist work
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Plan was to start trying to redpoint some harder circuits, but it quickly became apparent that (1) easy aerocap mileage the day after a strength session might, be ok, but harder stuff isn't. Duh. (2) I should in any case have planned in an easy week, or even a complete rest week, after finishing my aerocap mileage phase. Baled after an hour & early to bed.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Frankenjura, Weißenstein. Ventured - with some trepidation - onto my first of the famous Kurt Albert big macho steep jughauls, but trepidation got the better of me at the third bolt and I surrendered without even giving it a decent go. Confidence clearly not sufficiently built yet.
S: Frankenjura, Freudenhaus. Got on a very nice 6c, less steep & more technical than yesterday but still slightly overhanging. Fell at the last bolt three times. Bugger.

Most discouraging. If I don't find a way to get my finger out this year threatens to be turn into a repeat of last year, when I had a promising spring but then fizzled completely. So what to do? I have a massive discrepancy between what I can do on technical, bouldery terrain - around 7a/7a+ - versus what I can do on steep pumpy things - around 6b/6b+. Why? I seem to have a genuine lack of power endurance in addition to the confidence issue - I wasn't scared on the 6c on Sunday, just powered out. This is trainable.

Realistic Frankenjura training would be 15 metre steep jughauls at the wall, clipping every third bolt. The authorities might not like it. I might not like it either; could start with every second bolt.
hms - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan. Armistice does seem to involve a lot of pulling shapes and not so much moving between them, but even that is flipping hard work so presumably achieving something. This week was fairly high volume but think the coming week may be less so.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. Met up at UCR with D1 in evening for a good routes session. Couple of goes on the red 7b. Strong local sniffily said it was 'only 6c' - not a chance, think it is quite solid at the grade. Also tried a new 7b which turned out to be extremely hard indeed - now upgraded to 7b+ and it is every inch that.
W - cycle commute. Fingers aching, so instead of FB instead did a long rehab session with TRX (50 each of I,Y & T flys), theraband, overhead weights etc.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. Couple of circuits to warm up then worked through the brand new V2-V4 set (these are TCA grades, remember!). Did 22/30.
F - 2 miles urban walking them back to TCA. Polished off 5 more of the reds over many tries. Tried really hard t but think the remaining 3 won't go (straight dyno; really awkward dyno/rockover; matching on a greasy fibreglass crinkly volume). Campusing - better setup for this as free-hanging and the rungs are at half intervals so I can ladder up them. Did 8 moves then approx. 3 min rest x 6. Cup of tea then finished with 1min on:1min off x10 on lattice. A few weeks ago I couldn't do this but felt steady today.
S - nothing - collected D2 from uni.
S - UCR. It was incredibly hot and humid. After 7 routes husband's ankle was painful (running injury) and I didn't fancy back-to-back routes in the sauna. Did 1min on:1 min off x10 FoC to finish instead.

UCR has a grading crisis at the moment. They are setting routes regularly and the setting is pretty good now, but anything that anyone proposes to be around 7a then gets bumped down to 6c/+ by the centre manager. This has happened to the last 4 routes around that grade that I've climbed straight after they were set. Consequently means that there are no 7a lapping routes. I think I will have to just use my own internal grading scheme and ignore the megalomaniac one being imposed from on high.
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planetmarshall on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Planetmarshall - Love that your goals cover sport, trad, bouldering, winter and, er, alpine? What’s an ED?

What can I say, I love all of it, though it does make training a challenge. With a trip to Kaly in September I'm going to try to focus on more sport climbing specific activities, which in any case will feed into my trad. Alpine Grades are funny beasts. For a modern rock climb ED can mean several pitches at around 7a, for a traditional North Face it can mean much easier climbing but with the added danger of rocks falling on your head. Or the mountain falling down.

Last week's goals -


* Mid week and weekend trail run (1 long)
* Midweek bouldering (preferably outdoors)
* 2 max strength sessions
* Increase Fingerboard weight to -22kg/5 reps
* Weekend trad
* Continue daily shoulder rehab.


A good week goal wise, only missed out on a long run this weekend. I need to think about the timing - quite often if I don't do these long runs early in the day I don't really have the motivation to do it later on, even if the weather looks better.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Max Strength
Wed - Trail Run (8km/300m)
Thu - Bouldering @ Burbage North Surprised myself by attempting one of my MTGs, Banana Finger (f6A) and almost getting it. Beastmaker paying off? It'll go soon, definitely.
Fri - Max Strength & Fingerboard (BM 5a, 5 reps @-22kg)
Sat - Bouldering @Works. 2x 10 problems @ f5 ish (Murples). Slightly above my onsight level so a bit hard for this workout. Drop it down a grade next time.
Sun - Trad @ Stoney Middleton. Nothing of note. Everything is taking too long!

STG

Next week's goals -
* Trad climbing is taking too long, I'm not getting enough out of my time. So, next week
- 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight by 4kg, drop reps to 4.
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session

MTG

Left shoulder rehab.
Kalymnos in September
Magma (6b+)
Something in the Grande Grotta Area,
Elefantenhimmel (7a) maybe.

British Trad Routes:

The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone

Bouldering

Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)

LTG

Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Central Buttress (VI 7)
Shang-High (VII 7)
Central Grooves (VII 7)
Sundance (VIII 8)

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.
Ally Smith on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks for the stats Dan - a month is very optimistic, as i'll have some limited opportunities for getting to the crag with pre-planned weekends keeping me away from Yorkshire. Fingers crossed very much crossed for some sustained dry weather...

Week 29
M - Travel to Germany. Hotel gym; 500kcal-ish of exercise, including a bunch of cardio, ring style exercises on a weird cable machine, lat pull downs and weighted crunches
T - Nothing; Conferencing like a boss – skipped lunch to avoid too much gluttony
W - Zero; More conferencing – missed lunch doing final edits to my presentation
T - Nadda; travel
F - Smashed in an aero-power FoC session. Lactate curve not looking spectacular, but not too far off pre-Chulilla trip in Feb (lattice test might make interesting data?) 25min rest and repeat – virtually the same outcome. Curry with AJM
S - House moving – kitchen focus
S - More house moving; amazing GF gave me evening pass and got to CyL for a rushed 90min pumpfest. Did first third and middle bit, but go at linking it in a oner was unsuccessful (lack of rest was obvious cause).
the sheep - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> The sheep - Hope you burnt off the family on Sunday, what else is all that training for?!

Oh yes, put on my finest yellow T-shirt and left them sobbing in my dust ;-)

Nice bit about the training is that I do it because I enjoy it. Swimming I started mainly as a recovery tool after major abdominal surgery, unfortunately that left me with a weakened core and subsequently I managed to damage my back and burst a couple of discs for which again swimming was great rehab and I have continued to enjoy it. I have always enjoyed cycling and having moved just over a year ago I have been able to extend my commute. Im quite lucky that I only have about 3km of city centre riding and then I can hop on traffic free paths for about 7km to get out of town. From there I have a great choice of country lanes to pootle along to find my way home. The running was my wife's thing and she nagged me into going out with her. I thought I would hate it as playing many years of rugby in the forwards we always tried to avoid it ;-) Anyway to my surprise I got into it and really enjoy it, especially getting out and exploring footpaths and trails I have never been on. Since making the choice at the beginning of January 2016 to start to swim on a regular basis and bringing in the other activities I have lost 2 stone and feel fitter than i have for a long time. Just need to find the time to climb now as well!

Anyway after that ramble last weeks stats were:

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim. New pb and first ever sub 16 minute km! Cycled 26km home and in the evening passed my sports diver theory exam

Thursday, 16km morning cycle and 1km lunchtime swim

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim and 26.3km ride home. Cranked up the average pace a bit to 25.3km/h which isnt too bad considering the first 10k of the trip was city centre/dirt track

Saturday at a swim gala with the eldest

Sunday again at the gala but managed a quick 5.5km run before the session kicked off.

Just Tintin - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

This week's news: I love Gogarth. When can I go back?

M - rest?
T - cappow
W - lead bimble
T - rest (drove to camp at base of Tryfan overnight). Literally zero sleep as the wind flapped the tipi silnylon all night.
F - coaching day Gogarth. Did Resolution Direct (E2 5b), Winking Crack (E3 5c) and Strike (E4 6a) then a quick dip. Good sleep of the righteous.
S - raining so did lots of cafe scrabble and accidentally bought some B3 mountaineering boots. Checked out the Joe Brown girdle that the book says is always dry at Carreg Hyll-Drem - it wasn't. Dried up a bit later on but Snowdon fell race going on based out of Llanberis so couldn't sneak in for some evening slate. Bouldering near the campsite - enjoyed Ogwen Jazz (V4). Okay sleep despite 7 hours of mountain rescue helicopter doing rounds from 8.30pm.
S - back to Gogarth for lazy day on Gogarth (E1 5b) and a swim and an ice cream. Brilliant crag. So many things I want to do there now and deeply resenting being at work on a sunny day.
hokkyokusei - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> Hello FitClubbers!

Hello!

> Hokkyokusei - 23m 5k is very impressive, you think you have more in the tank to improve it?

Good question. I think that I ought to do, though I didn't manage it this week. My best time this year was 22:54 on a very flat course. Horton Park parkrun is anything but flat, but I ran 22:50 there last year. But, that was after coming back from Peru - lighter and acclimatised. My all-time 5k PB is 22:43 and I'm thinking that perhaps with some interval training and more effort I might be able to beat that. We'll see!

m - Physio
t - rest
w - 5k run to work.
t - Ill
f - Ill
s - Horton parkrun 23:21
s - rest

Not a great week, short of time and then ill and my mate was back from France for a few days and there was a lot of beer involved! To keep me motivated I've booked a couple of races.

STG
Keep my weight down

MTG
September - Yorkshireman off-road half marathon
October - Budapest marathon (my first marathon!)



Dandan82 - on 18 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks me, this week I learned that my body is terrible at resting.

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Antagonist shoulder theraband

T: I could stand the rest no more, so went for an indoor boulder at BoulderShack. I thought i'll just nip down, have a mooch about and climb whatever I fancy, nice easy session and i'll probably be really strong because of all the rest.
Nope, was weak and feeble, couldn't get up anything, performed worse than previously on some problems, really rubbish. My mood darkened when I failed to get up any of the 3 V5's on the comp wall, and I don't mean I just didn't flash them, I didn't get up them in multiple attempts. I don't care how weak I am, if i'm not flashing a steep crimpy V5 then it's not a V5. Stupid stiff grades.

F: Rest

S: Portland; headed to Coastguard North, got put off by rain, headed to Cuttings, got put off by 20 billion climbers queuing for routes (this is the South coast, we don't queue), headed back to Coastguard under brightening skies.
The excessive rest did not agree with my elbow so it started playing up on a 6b+ (which I should add I barely onsighted), so there was no chance of checking out Prison Sex (7c+). I did onsight Superfly Guy (7a) though which was pretty good fun and Mrs Dandan is keen to go back for it so a return trip is on the cards.

S: Rest

What did I learn from this week? I don't rest well. I get weak, I get dodgy elbows, its no good.
The elbows are actually much better on intense weeks, it may be a muscle tightness issue which is better when constantly worked and tightens up in rest periods? I think this may have been what happened in February before Santa Linya too.
My pre-holiday taper weeks need to have as many sessions as a normal week, just keep them short and intense and I need 2 weeks worth of that for full effect.

I was very poor on the stretching front this week, but Tom has now put a stretching session into the plan so i've no excuses, I find it much easier to stick to something that's written down rather than just saying to myself, 'I should stretch really'

Much more intense week coming this week which makes me happy, 12 sessions all in which may be a new record...
mattrm - on 20:24 Wed
In reply to Dandan82:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 12lbs

M - S - Rest

That was a bit of a confusing sentence of mine. I really meant that I need to keep up the indoor sessions, which are quite feasible. While Ogmore is a short drive from my house, but it's not really somewhere I climb a lot. Probably should climb there more, the main section of the crag is full of excellent routes on good rock. The top outs aren't amazing, but it's a quality crag. Didn't mange to get to the wall this week. Ended up arranging to have the sparky come in and do some work and playing computer games. We're firmly in the waiting for the baby stage. Even I'm nesting a bit.
Post edited at 20:28
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