This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hi there.
I have seen similar topics, but haven't quite found what I'm after. I've been climbing a long time, and in the past year had real trouble with my finger joints. started with the middle finger swelling and then a year later my first finger. I stopped climbing for 7 months with little change. had x-rays and MRI scan. I live in mallorca so dealing with spanish and german doctors. One says it's osteoarthritus, the other chronic overuse. Not sure what to think. The advice is to stop climbing, but obviously that is the last thing I want to do. I've had injections or cortosone, which I know is only a short term solution and doesn't solve anything. It just allows me to keep going for now. Even with the injections they still ache a little and this is happening in my other hand as well on the same joints. Does anyone have experience with this kind of problem? I'm thinking about hyraulic acid, but it's quite expensive and little research has come out with it's effectiveness in smaller joints. I've changed my diet considerably, and stopped crimping. Really I'd like to hear if fellow climbers have had similar problems and how they are managing it, while keeping on climbing, and how long it is sustainable Thanks in advance for any replies to my query. Cheers
I have seen similar topics, but haven't quite found what I'm after. I've been climbing a long time, and in the past year had real trouble with my finger joints. started with the middle finger swelling and then a year later my first finger. I stopped climbing for 7 months with little change. had x-rays and MRI scan. I live in mallorca so dealing with spanish and german doctors. One says it's osteoarthritus, the other chronic overuse. Not sure what to think. The advice is to stop climbing, but obviously that is the last thing I want to do. I've had injections or cortosone, which I know is only a short term solution and doesn't solve anything. It just allows me to keep going for now. Even with the injections they still ache a little and this is happening in my other hand as well on the same joints. Does anyone have experience with this kind of problem? I'm thinking about hyraulic acid, but it's quite expensive and little research has come out with it's effectiveness in smaller joints. I've changed my diet considerably, and stopped crimping. Really I'd like to hear if fellow climbers have had similar problems and how they are managing it, while keeping on climbing, and how long it is sustainable Thanks in advance for any replies to my query. Cheers
1
In reply to aaronna:
I have had problems in this joint as well (middle and ring fingers of one hand). Have been dissuaded from the likes of steroid injection, I think wisely but perhaps your fingers are a good bit worse than mine. If you're finding the fingers are stiff (having trouble bending them) then this is something a decent physio may be able to help you with - if you were in Scotland I could have recommended someone who helped mine.
As for mitigating the problem, stopping crimping is definitely a good idea if you can. I find they are sore if climbing fingery stuff so avoiding the likes of indoor walls and the more fingery sport routes may be a good idea. Trad is less of a problem I find as fingery sections tend to be restricted to the crux or a few holds per pitch, if that.
I have had problems in this joint as well (middle and ring fingers of one hand). Have been dissuaded from the likes of steroid injection, I think wisely but perhaps your fingers are a good bit worse than mine. If you're finding the fingers are stiff (having trouble bending them) then this is something a decent physio may be able to help you with - if you were in Scotland I could have recommended someone who helped mine.
As for mitigating the problem, stopping crimping is definitely a good idea if you can. I find they are sore if climbing fingery stuff so avoiding the likes of indoor walls and the more fingery sport routes may be a good idea. Trad is less of a problem I find as fingery sections tend to be restricted to the crux or a few holds per pitch, if that.
In reply to aaronna:
I'm finding the same thing happening to my hands after years of climbing. Pain from arthritis when I train/climb, compounded with raynauds, which affects me every time I climb- not just winter.
I haven't any pearls of wisdom as yet, but am on a similar quest to do anything I can to prolong my climbing career. I ain't ready to finish just yet. I'll let you know if I find out anything useful.
I'm finding the same thing happening to my hands after years of climbing. Pain from arthritis when I train/climb, compounded with raynauds, which affects me every time I climb- not just winter.
I haven't any pearls of wisdom as yet, but am on a similar quest to do anything I can to prolong my climbing career. I ain't ready to finish just yet. I'll let you know if I find out anything useful.
1
In reply to aaronna:
I guess osteoarthritis and chronic overuse can be things which overlap? Good luck in finding a way to keep climbing.
I guess osteoarthritis and chronic overuse can be things which overlap? Good luck in finding a way to keep climbing.
In reply to aaronna:
Hi,
I climb and I run frequently so my joints are pretty stressed. And periodically I have joint problems. But lately I take silicium supplement constantly and it helps me a lot. I also used to take boron supplements, a few years ago, and that was also useful for my joints. I don't know if it will help you, but maybe you should give it a try. It can't hurt you. They are oligolelements that are good for your body.
www.cococlimbingjewelry.com
Hi,
I climb and I run frequently so my joints are pretty stressed. And periodically I have joint problems. But lately I take silicium supplement constantly and it helps me a lot. I also used to take boron supplements, a few years ago, and that was also useful for my joints. I don't know if it will help you, but maybe you should give it a try. It can't hurt you. They are oligolelements that are good for your body.
www.cococlimbingjewelry.com
Post edited at 07:11
1
5
In reply to Rock to Fakey:
im just 32, si i feel it's pretty young to be suffering. I've been climbing a lot the past 20 years tho
im just 32, si i feel it's pretty young to be suffering. I've been climbing a lot the past 20 years tho
In reply to purple sue:
I have reynauds and arthritis in my hands. (I am somewhat older than you it appears!) Both were getting bad, and some mornings I had to use force to get my fingers to bend and it was very painful. My 91 year old mother mentioned an 'old wives tale' that cutting out veg fat and using animal fat instead worked (It appears to have for her) so 5 months ago I started using animal fats and almost eliminated veg fats. My hands do not now seize up over night and I only have a dull ache in my worst finger joints. I mentioned this to a doctor who agreed that it appeared that veg fats do not help with joint mobility. He did suggest that eating more oily fish would be better the extra pork chops/bacon would be the way to go. He also suggested that if I balanced my diet to this end it would be far better than any expensive supplement. He aggressively warned me off the glucosamine/chondroitin route, quoting research that says their effects are almost certainly placebo and can have negative effects in a large minority of cases! (He also suggested that chondroitin would adversely affect my very small amount of dupuytrens.)
My experience with animal fats, whilst working for me, must be taken as purely anecdotal/old wives tale. There is very little real scientific research on the topic (the same minimal investigation as for many of the supplements that people swear by!), and what there is is inconclusive!
I have reynauds and arthritis in my hands. (I am somewhat older than you it appears!) Both were getting bad, and some mornings I had to use force to get my fingers to bend and it was very painful. My 91 year old mother mentioned an 'old wives tale' that cutting out veg fat and using animal fat instead worked (It appears to have for her) so 5 months ago I started using animal fats and almost eliminated veg fats. My hands do not now seize up over night and I only have a dull ache in my worst finger joints. I mentioned this to a doctor who agreed that it appeared that veg fats do not help with joint mobility. He did suggest that eating more oily fish would be better the extra pork chops/bacon would be the way to go. He also suggested that if I balanced my diet to this end it would be far better than any expensive supplement. He aggressively warned me off the glucosamine/chondroitin route, quoting research that says their effects are almost certainly placebo and can have negative effects in a large minority of cases! (He also suggested that chondroitin would adversely affect my very small amount of dupuytrens.)
My experience with animal fats, whilst working for me, must be taken as purely anecdotal/old wives tale. There is very little real scientific research on the topic (the same minimal investigation as for many of the supplements that people swear by!), and what there is is inconclusive!
4
In reply to aaronna:
I am 54 and i have got 40 years of wear and tear on my body . I started climbing at 13 years old and since then i have also done boxing and various martial arts lots of running during a 15 years army career and cycling and just generally lots of different types of training that was starting to take its toll on my body and i was waking up with really stiff joints on a daily basis until discovered Apple Cider Vinegar .
I find that if i take it or at least remember to take it after a big training session or long day doing anything physical then it really helps me and stops me from getting stiff and achey joints the next day
Generally i am recovering not so much quicker just recovering better.I also stopped drinking alcohol completely 2 years ago and i have really cut down on carbs such as bread rice and pasta and where possible i eat lots more greens. Also i have completed cut out sugar to the best of my ability.
I have really noticed an improvement in my hands circulation and flexibility of my joints and although i still get stiff fingers etc after climbing it feels more like a healthy type of stiffness and not painful or negative and the same goes for my toes too.
I don't know for sure how the apple cider vinegar works i just know that it works and its the cloudy stuff that you should take and not the filtered stuff. The cloudy stuff is the bit that carries all the health benefits and its known as Mother
It taste awful until you get used to it and what i do is mix about 4 tablespoons with a full squeezed lemon and then add warm water to fill a large mug.
Just one more thing, Coke is terrible for joints and all things calcium and rots the body from the inside out. There is a host of videos on you tube that demonstrate Cokes destructive actions and its aggressive nature when used in cleaning certain metals and other materials.
I am talking about the drink and not the white powder of course.
Lastly i can also recommend the benefits of regular self hand and finger massage with a good quality hand cream. For a 54 year old man who has used his hands a lot i have really good healthy joints and straight fingers compared to a lot of 20 years old climbers.
You can buy Apple Cider Vinegar in Spain too and you can buy it on Amazon . In my opinion it works and is very useful for many many complaints and if you google it you can see for yourself that it is highly recommended and its totally natural and not too expensive . I pay 4 euro for one litre bottles that lasts about one month and i find that its better to take it for one month then leave it 2 months and then start again or just see how you feel and take it when you start to notice that you feel stiff and achey. Everyone is different so experiment and see what works for you
I am 54 and i have got 40 years of wear and tear on my body . I started climbing at 13 years old and since then i have also done boxing and various martial arts lots of running during a 15 years army career and cycling and just generally lots of different types of training that was starting to take its toll on my body and i was waking up with really stiff joints on a daily basis until discovered Apple Cider Vinegar .
I find that if i take it or at least remember to take it after a big training session or long day doing anything physical then it really helps me and stops me from getting stiff and achey joints the next day
Generally i am recovering not so much quicker just recovering better.I also stopped drinking alcohol completely 2 years ago and i have really cut down on carbs such as bread rice and pasta and where possible i eat lots more greens. Also i have completed cut out sugar to the best of my ability.
I have really noticed an improvement in my hands circulation and flexibility of my joints and although i still get stiff fingers etc after climbing it feels more like a healthy type of stiffness and not painful or negative and the same goes for my toes too.
I don't know for sure how the apple cider vinegar works i just know that it works and its the cloudy stuff that you should take and not the filtered stuff. The cloudy stuff is the bit that carries all the health benefits and its known as Mother
It taste awful until you get used to it and what i do is mix about 4 tablespoons with a full squeezed lemon and then add warm water to fill a large mug.
Just one more thing, Coke is terrible for joints and all things calcium and rots the body from the inside out. There is a host of videos on you tube that demonstrate Cokes destructive actions and its aggressive nature when used in cleaning certain metals and other materials.
I am talking about the drink and not the white powder of course.
Lastly i can also recommend the benefits of regular self hand and finger massage with a good quality hand cream. For a 54 year old man who has used his hands a lot i have really good healthy joints and straight fingers compared to a lot of 20 years old climbers.
You can buy Apple Cider Vinegar in Spain too and you can buy it on Amazon . In my opinion it works and is very useful for many many complaints and if you google it you can see for yourself that it is highly recommended and its totally natural and not too expensive . I pay 4 euro for one litre bottles that lasts about one month and i find that its better to take it for one month then leave it 2 months and then start again or just see how you feel and take it when you start to notice that you feel stiff and achey. Everyone is different so experiment and see what works for you
2
In reply to aaronna:
I've had the finger pulley and joint niggles since mid 30s. Saw a few specialists and those I knew, put it down to over use and wear. If you are climbing on relatively small holds, several days a week then we do demand quite a lot of our hands. I don't think they evolved to take those kinds of loads on individual fingers.
I just have to warm up lots and be conscious when using holds that don't have space for all the fingers. If I wasn't climbing I would cave or kayak, a physio advised me to sometimes do other sports that give my fingers a rest.
I've had the finger pulley and joint niggles since mid 30s. Saw a few specialists and those I knew, put it down to over use and wear. If you are climbing on relatively small holds, several days a week then we do demand quite a lot of our hands. I don't think they evolved to take those kinds of loads on individual fingers.
I just have to warm up lots and be conscious when using holds that don't have space for all the fingers. If I wasn't climbing I would cave or kayak, a physio advised me to sometimes do other sports that give my fingers a rest.
Post edited at 11:39
In reply to summo:
I guess cycling could be a good alternative in giving a different kind of workout too, towards being fit aerobically.
I guess cycling could be a good alternative in giving a different kind of workout too, towards being fit aerobically.
1
In reply to aaronna:
If it's OA, then as you will be aware there is no cure. Usual disclaimer, seek appropriate independent advice first, but for me with it in most DIP and PIP joints, the following in no particular order is useful, but may well be different for you:
Keeping climbing - adjust grades/routes to a level that is sustainable for the time your climbing on a particular day. Then rest day or days avoiding climbing two days in a row. I've found improvements overall in managing it by keeping going with rest time, but having no set routes/grades to achieve. Some days are therefore good and some not so and even on occasions down at a level I climbed at 10 years ago! Keeping strength and flexibility in the joints is very important, and I am sure the use it or lose it applies to OA affected joints.
Little or no alcohol, and caffeine - afraid I can't give up caffeine though I should do that also.
Diet - avoid or minimise anything that cause inflammation. This will vary from person to person.
Warm up exercises essential before climbing, warm down exercises after, and hand and finger stretches/massages during and after. Don't just stop without, particularly after a painful climb.
Whilst keeping fingers and hands warm generally and whilst climbing, cold immersion of hands and fingers after a hard session when really bad. 15 - 20 mins is target. The idea is to get them really cold and to the stage that the body forcefully pumps blood into the cold hands and fingers. Otherwise generally keep the blood flowing as much as possible so promote healing.
No crimps ever and minimise use of small grips. Spread load over ideally three fingers, find ways of using holds differently - I can't use my pinkies now at all.
Avoid holding fingers bent for long period of time even when not under much load. Keeping them moving and straightening them out when you can helps even between moves. I often do some one hand star burst hand "stretches" whilst on routes when they get too painful. Being static for too long reduces blood supply.
Use three fingers for pulling, never just one, and ideally not just two. Does mean many routes can't be done if they involve finger pockets or small holds though.
Avoid torquing finger joints, and certainly minimise any rotation of joints particularly when loaded even lightly - better to remove fingers and replace.
Avoid dyno type moves/slaps and generally avoid snatching any holds. Slow deliberate placement of grip is best.
Finger taping with a good quality non stretch tape. I now always tape fairly tightly two or three of my fingers on each hand before a session and replace during as necessary; individually taping avoiding joint as you need to allow some bending, not buddy taping (the latter makes mine worse). Helps mine partly because it is a constant reminder that there is OA in the joints so find other ways of using the holds, but more importantly it stops more extreme bending and twisting of joints and keeps pressure on the pulleys which with me get affected due to swelling and bone growth.
When a joint locks, sort it before continuing and further tape if necessary. Further stressing of a joint when out of alignment is a no no in my book.
Double strength ibuprofen gel massaged in when necessary.
Hand massage with hand creams to improve circulation, warmth, encourage healing and keep mobility and flexibility as much as possible.
Oh and did I mention rest days!
Sure at least some of the above is not appropriate for some, but seem to work for me. Still going at the same average spread of grades after some 8yrs of finger OA.
If it's OA, then as you will be aware there is no cure. Usual disclaimer, seek appropriate independent advice first, but for me with it in most DIP and PIP joints, the following in no particular order is useful, but may well be different for you:
Keeping climbing - adjust grades/routes to a level that is sustainable for the time your climbing on a particular day. Then rest day or days avoiding climbing two days in a row. I've found improvements overall in managing it by keeping going with rest time, but having no set routes/grades to achieve. Some days are therefore good and some not so and even on occasions down at a level I climbed at 10 years ago! Keeping strength and flexibility in the joints is very important, and I am sure the use it or lose it applies to OA affected joints.
Little or no alcohol, and caffeine - afraid I can't give up caffeine though I should do that also.
Diet - avoid or minimise anything that cause inflammation. This will vary from person to person.
Warm up exercises essential before climbing, warm down exercises after, and hand and finger stretches/massages during and after. Don't just stop without, particularly after a painful climb.
Whilst keeping fingers and hands warm generally and whilst climbing, cold immersion of hands and fingers after a hard session when really bad. 15 - 20 mins is target. The idea is to get them really cold and to the stage that the body forcefully pumps blood into the cold hands and fingers. Otherwise generally keep the blood flowing as much as possible so promote healing.
No crimps ever and minimise use of small grips. Spread load over ideally three fingers, find ways of using holds differently - I can't use my pinkies now at all.
Avoid holding fingers bent for long period of time even when not under much load. Keeping them moving and straightening them out when you can helps even between moves. I often do some one hand star burst hand "stretches" whilst on routes when they get too painful. Being static for too long reduces blood supply.
Use three fingers for pulling, never just one, and ideally not just two. Does mean many routes can't be done if they involve finger pockets or small holds though.
Avoid torquing finger joints, and certainly minimise any rotation of joints particularly when loaded even lightly - better to remove fingers and replace.
Avoid dyno type moves/slaps and generally avoid snatching any holds. Slow deliberate placement of grip is best.
Finger taping with a good quality non stretch tape. I now always tape fairly tightly two or three of my fingers on each hand before a session and replace during as necessary; individually taping avoiding joint as you need to allow some bending, not buddy taping (the latter makes mine worse). Helps mine partly because it is a constant reminder that there is OA in the joints so find other ways of using the holds, but more importantly it stops more extreme bending and twisting of joints and keeps pressure on the pulleys which with me get affected due to swelling and bone growth.
When a joint locks, sort it before continuing and further tape if necessary. Further stressing of a joint when out of alignment is a no no in my book.
Double strength ibuprofen gel massaged in when necessary.
Hand massage with hand creams to improve circulation, warmth, encourage healing and keep mobility and flexibility as much as possible.
Oh and did I mention rest days!
Sure at least some of the above is not appropriate for some, but seem to work for me. Still going at the same average spread of grades after some 8yrs of finger OA.
2
In reply to aaronna:
I suffer similar, started about 5 years ago in right hand middle finger at age 48. Left hand gone the same way now.
Volker Schoffel seems to describe it as "Capsulitis" in his excellent book "one move too many"
Worth picking up a copy and reading the couple of pages there to see if it fits your symptoms.
I just rub Ibuprofen gel into mine after each sesh and its not got worse.
Hopefully wont be stopping anytime soon because of it.
I suffer similar, started about 5 years ago in right hand middle finger at age 48. Left hand gone the same way now.
Volker Schoffel seems to describe it as "Capsulitis" in his excellent book "one move too many"
Worth picking up a copy and reading the couple of pages there to see if it fits your symptoms.
I just rub Ibuprofen gel into mine after each sesh and its not got worse.
Hopefully wont be stopping anytime soon because of it.
In reply to Climbing Pieman:
Apparently you can quit caffeine in a gradual way as well as going cold turkey, which seems much more agreeable as a life long tea drinker.
I'm sure it's not as addictive as smoking was (for me), but it can seem a tenacious routine.
Apparently you can quit caffeine in a gradual way as well as going cold turkey, which seems much more agreeable as a life long tea drinker.
I'm sure it's not as addictive as smoking was (for me), but it can seem a tenacious routine.
Post edited at 15:28
In reply to Alan Pierce:
thanks very much for your detailed reply. great advice. I'll try the vinegar for sure, and lay of the coke too.
thanks very much for your detailed reply. great advice. I'll try the vinegar for sure, and lay of the coke too.
In reply to Climbing Pieman:
Great advice, thanks very much. A lot of it I'm trying to do now. Quiting alcohol and caffeine could be a struggle, but i'll definately be trying to reduce it greatly.
Great advice, thanks very much. A lot of it I'm trying to do now. Quiting alcohol and caffeine could be a struggle, but i'll definately be trying to reduce it greatly.
In reply to sheppy:
I did get recommended that book. I think it may be a factor as a very good german doctor consulted others too, and said that it didn't look like oa. thanks
I did get recommended that book. I think it may be a factor as a very good german doctor consulted others too, and said that it didn't look like oa. thanks
In reply to su
great thanks, yea i think that's a good thing to do, stay active with other things, and get quality climbing over quantity
great thanks, yea i think that's a good thing to do, stay active with other things, and get quality climbing over quantity
In reply to aaronna:
I had to quit alcohol because it started making me glum, and then I because diabetic, and it suddenly seemed like a no brainer, with alcohol complicating things a little re being diabetic (type 1).
I found that a health reason can be a solid motive for quitting something, keeping healthy fingers seems like a good one.
I had to quit alcohol because it started making me glum, and then I because diabetic, and it suddenly seemed like a no brainer, with alcohol complicating things a little re being diabetic (type 1).
I found that a health reason can be a solid motive for quitting something, keeping healthy fingers seems like a good one.
Post edited at 16:23
In reply to aaronna:
I've had this in my ring finger for months. Just took a course of corticosteroids for my asthma and it's helped my finger no end in the space of 5 days. Just climbed on it today virtually pain-free so going to see how it goes now I'm off the steroids again.
Obvs avoiding seeing a doctor about it because they'll just tell me to stop climbing.
I've had this in my ring finger for months. Just took a course of corticosteroids for my asthma and it's helped my finger no end in the space of 5 days. Just climbed on it today virtually pain-free so going to see how it goes now I'm off the steroids again.
Obvs avoiding seeing a doctor about it because they'll just tell me to stop climbing.
2
In reply to Timmd:
Somewhat ironically, caffeine has been shown to improve the effectiveness of pain relief generally. With me therefore I have to weigh up the benefits of caffeine for pain relief against the negative of worsening OA.
I also enjoy caffeinated tea and coffee!
Somewhat ironically, caffeine has been shown to improve the effectiveness of pain relief generally. With me therefore I have to weigh up the benefits of caffeine for pain relief against the negative of worsening OA.
I also enjoy caffeinated tea and coffee!
1
In reply to Climbing Pieman:
That's interesting to know. In that case I'm probably going to reduce my tea and quit coffee, and keep drinking super strong and dark (sugar free) drinking cocoa each morning. Sainsburys own brand in the black cardboard packaging is the nicest I've ever tasted, it can really lift one's mood in a way coffee doesn't.
That's interesting to know. In that case I'm probably going to reduce my tea and quit coffee, and keep drinking super strong and dark (sugar free) drinking cocoa each morning. Sainsburys own brand in the black cardboard packaging is the nicest I've ever tasted, it can really lift one's mood in a way coffee doesn't.
Post edited at 17:31
2
In reply to aaronna:
Stopping a sport completely because of pain is usually not the right answer. Thirty years ago doctors frequently used to tell everyone with a sports injury to just give up sport until the weight of evidence showed how essential exercise is. Thankfully GP's rarely say that to people any more.
Also remember that osteoarthritis is not always painful. If you took x rays of the hands of elite level climbers who have been climbing for more than 20 years I would bet that most of them have got mild to moderate degenerative changes.
My advice would be to temporarily reduce the load on your finger joints to allow the pain and swelling to settle and then make your hands stronger.
Reduce load by 1) pacing your activity ie; reducing the frequency of your training, reducing the length of time you train for or reducing the grades of the routes you choose, 2) use finger tape, 3) always open hand and never crimp.
Get the muscles stronger with grip strengtheners/ squeezy balls, pull up bars, lapis rolly balls etc. None of these should stress the finger joints too much.
My twopenneth worth on the expensive nutritional supplements is; don't bother, save your money. There is no evidence it works.
Stopping a sport completely because of pain is usually not the right answer. Thirty years ago doctors frequently used to tell everyone with a sports injury to just give up sport until the weight of evidence showed how essential exercise is. Thankfully GP's rarely say that to people any more.
Also remember that osteoarthritis is not always painful. If you took x rays of the hands of elite level climbers who have been climbing for more than 20 years I would bet that most of them have got mild to moderate degenerative changes.
My advice would be to temporarily reduce the load on your finger joints to allow the pain and swelling to settle and then make your hands stronger.
Reduce load by 1) pacing your activity ie; reducing the frequency of your training, reducing the length of time you train for or reducing the grades of the routes you choose, 2) use finger tape, 3) always open hand and never crimp.
Get the muscles stronger with grip strengtheners/ squeezy balls, pull up bars, lapis rolly balls etc. None of these should stress the finger joints too much.
My twopenneth worth on the expensive nutritional supplements is; don't bother, save your money. There is no evidence it works.
3
In reply to Static:
I think you are probably right on those points. my osteopathic surgeon said the evidence for supplements is very low. and even if they work, they don't always get to the site of the injury. training muscles to support the joints seems like the way to go.
The problem was I stopped almost completely for 7 months and there was zero change until i got cortizone injections. That was the worrying thing!
anyway stopping crimping will for sure help hugely. I guess the thing is you just have to be so much stronger to climb hard without crimping. not getting demotivated and training smart is the way to go. Thanks for the reply
I think you are probably right on those points. my osteopathic surgeon said the evidence for supplements is very low. and even if they work, they don't always get to the site of the injury. training muscles to support the joints seems like the way to go.
The problem was I stopped almost completely for 7 months and there was zero change until i got cortizone injections. That was the worrying thing!
anyway stopping crimping will for sure help hugely. I guess the thing is you just have to be so much stronger to climb hard without crimping. not getting demotivated and training smart is the way to go. Thanks for the reply
1
In reply to aaronna:
Have you tried Gripsavers made by Metolius, or sitting and opening and closing your fingers lot? It could be helpful from a mobility being helpful point of view?
Have you tried Gripsavers made by Metolius, or sitting and opening and closing your fingers lot? It could be helpful from a mobility being helpful point of view?
In reply to Static:
Here is an interesting chart that shows the scientific evidence behind various popular supliments
http://www.informationisbeautiful.net/visualizations/snake-oil-superfoods/
If you filer for musculoskeletal there is nothing really, in the chart at least. Which is suprising as I thought fish oil was supposed to be good for the joints?
Here is an interesting chart that shows the scientific evidence behind various popular supliments
http://www.informationisbeautiful.net/visualizations/snake-oil-superfoods/
If you filer for musculoskeletal there is nothing really, in the chart at least. Which is suprising as I thought fish oil was supposed to be good for the joints?
Post edited at 00:08
1
In reply to Timmd:
There's also things like Xtensor which concentrates more on just straightening the fingers rather than having to pull them apart from one another. Opening and closing the fingers definitely helps a lot if stiff, though if the range of movement is significantly reduced then some physio work may be useful first.
> Have you tried Gripsavers made by Metolius, or sitting and opening and closing your fingers lot? It could be helpful from a mobility being helpful point of view?
There's also things like Xtensor which concentrates more on just straightening the fingers rather than having to pull them apart from one another. Opening and closing the fingers definitely helps a lot if stiff, though if the range of movement is significantly reduced then some physio work may be useful first.
Post edited at 07:17
In reply to Static:
If there is already long term damage from overuse of these joints then I don't think this would help at all and may even compound the problem further. More useful would be doing the opposite (as Timmd suggests).
>
> Get the muscles stronger with grip strengtheners/ squeezy balls,
>
> Get the muscles stronger with grip strengtheners/ squeezy balls,
>
If there is already long term damage from overuse of these joints then I don't think this would help at all and may even compound the problem further. More useful would be doing the opposite (as Timmd suggests).
1
In reply to aaronna:
I have the same issue I think, am in my mid 30s and started getting swollen and painful finger joints a few years ago. Personally I find they are usually not actually painful or stiff to climb with, more so to press or squeeze or knock against a table (or throwing for a hold sometimes - ouch!)
I find the problem is created or exacerbated from torqueing the fingers when climbing. My middle fingers are quite a lot longer than my index and ring fingers which I think contributes to torqueing on crimps etc. Dave McLeod has a good bit in his book 'Make or Break' on finger issues including the one I think I am suffering from (and sounds similar to others above 'capsulitis'). I try to be quite conscious of this and avoid tweaky holds. Also better shoulder stability seems to help my finger positioning but not sure how scientific this is.
Interesting to hear others recommendations re: supplements etc.
I have the same issue I think, am in my mid 30s and started getting swollen and painful finger joints a few years ago. Personally I find they are usually not actually painful or stiff to climb with, more so to press or squeeze or knock against a table (or throwing for a hold sometimes - ouch!)
I find the problem is created or exacerbated from torqueing the fingers when climbing. My middle fingers are quite a lot longer than my index and ring fingers which I think contributes to torqueing on crimps etc. Dave McLeod has a good bit in his book 'Make or Break' on finger issues including the one I think I am suffering from (and sounds similar to others above 'capsulitis'). I try to be quite conscious of this and avoid tweaky holds. Also better shoulder stability seems to help my finger positioning but not sure how scientific this is.
Interesting to hear others recommendations re: supplements etc.
2
In reply to RockSteady:
Good advice and a very informative post
I have this problem and meet a lot of the criteria you describe
Good advice and a very informative post
I have this problem and meet a lot of the criteria you describe
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...