UKC

Anyone climbed this? Any tips?

Also is there any routes, or alternative routes on the mountain, worth doing?

thanks

In reply to Wildabeast:

Superb mountain. I climbed the rocky SW-ridge (aka Stuedlgrat) but not recently (this was way back in 1987).
It was a very enjoyable climb, highly recommended, alpine AD from memory.

In reply to Wildabeast: It's a beautiful mountain. I remember there being a snow bridge near the summit that can collapse when it warms up. I climbed it when I was 14 though (25 years ago) so possibly not the most trustworthy information.

In reply to Wildabeast:

I have a written report which I am happy to send you. It has locations/hotels/campsites/routes etc.....
If you email me i'll let you have it if it helps

In reply to Wildabeast:

Another vote for the Studlgrat - I did it about 5 years ago and it was fantastic even though conditions were pretty poor.
Stayed at both huts - well worth it to make the days a bit easier and less of a rush.

In reply to Big Mountain Man:

Yes please, could you send it though the UKC mail?

In reply to Babika:

We are planning to do it with a few bivvys, would love to link it up to another route but finding the info is tricky. Have ordered the Eastern Alps book so hopefully we will be enlightened.

In reply to Wildabeast:

I bought the Eastern Alps book as well but it was a bit of a disappointment. Topos downloaded from the internet (German sites I think) were more helpful for the Studlgrat. Bivvying sounds quite hard core- but there was some flat ground around the hut.

In reply to Wildabeast:

I climbed it in 1963 via the Glocknerleitl after breakfast at the Erzh-Johann Hutte, having started from the Franz Joseph Hutte earlier that morning, and crossing the Franz Joseph Glacier and Hofmannskees Glacier which at the time was wet and heavily crevassed, followed by the rocky Salmkamp Ridge.

As we are talking about 54 years ago now a lot would have changed and my recollection is poor, but I remember it being a beautiful mountain and surprisingly the ridge and col from the Klein Glockner to the Grossglockner summit was free of ice and snow. We did it in a day descending again via the Glocknerleitl and then down to the Salmhutte via the Hohenwartscharte col, taking 11 hours in all.

In reply to Babika:
Yeah I think that the Studlgrat looks the more appealing, I have an Austrian girlfriend who is a great translator! Is there any other routes served from the Studlgrat hut worth considering?

In reply to Wildabeast:

Not to the summit - but there may be others in the vicinity.
The Studlgrat Hut is lovely anyway and well worth a visit!

In reply to Wildabeast:

The Eastern Alps Rothe guide has several routes. Stüdlgrat is nice can be a bit crowded, never even minding the descent by the normal route. The NW ridge is not much harder (depending on where you start and which towers you include), and you are very likely to be alone.

CB