UKC

Articles I've read on ways to self belay all suggest using a (semi) static rope. I'm trying out self belaying (top-rope, using a shunt). Seems to work OK (ish) with a bog standard dynamic climbing rope. Are there any significant safety reason why I shouldn't do this? (yes, I know I should find some friends, and yes I know "I'm gonna die" - but am I more likely to die (and if you knew me better you'd know why I don't have friends)). Thanks muchly.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

If your rope is over an edge it might rub more with dynamic but a rope protector will sort that. Go for it

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

Done it for ages. You probably won't die but static is better

In reply to Scotch Bingington:
Be very careful if there is any overhanging rock... if you read the shunt safety information its not designed for this purpose, the main problem being it can slip on overhangs. More info here...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=581972

In reply to Scotch Bingington:
I have been using a shunt on a dynamic climbing rope since 1984, I'm still here.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

Have no experience of this method which presumably has rope anchored at top. Wouldn't an occasional clip of harness belay loop into a fig 8 on bight below shunt stop you if shunt slipped?
I've sometimes climbed just clipping into loops, no device. Fell once. Was OK.

In reply to oldie:

The issue isn't the shunt slipping. The disadvantages of using a dynamic rope rather than static are (a) rope stretching over an edge and (b) if you come off on steep ground with the anchor a long way above you'll go some distance on rope stretch, so working a hard route like this could be a right pest.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

+1 on the "it's always been fine for me" front.
If you find the amount of rope stretch annoying and are working a small section, you can always clove-hitch the rope to a piece of gear a number of metres above you so you get minimal stretch distance but still backed up by the anchor if it blows.

In reply to Offwidth:

Do you think a lard arse like Scotch will be attempting something like Kilnsey Overhang or the like?
A normal rope is perfectly fine.

In reply to Scotch Bingington:

Thanks for the responses. I'm suitably reassured. I'll also keep an eye out for sharp edges. Cheers all.

In reply to Lusk:

So true. Although will be using the technique to work towards the first FFOBA of a local 7c.

In reply to henwardian:


Sound like a good idea, and fits with my purposes nicely. Cheers.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Isn't there also a risk of decking if you come off near the ground due to the rope stretch, so it's a good idea to weight the rope initially?