In reply to Sezza:
1. Grade conversions are rarely accurate, different systems grade for different things. UK trad grades technical grade is for the hardest moves/sequence, not the overall difficulty for example. Personally I find that when somewhere new, I have to calibrate the local grading / rock/ style to my abilities before attempting what I suspect is a climb that pushes my limit.
uk climbs frequently aren't so run out as the dolomites, though shorter so greater consequences.
2. Setting up belays takes time, efficiency here helps. Swing leads, use slings for belays I find can help. One sorts rope, other racks up, climb quickly and place gear efficiently. Comes with practice.
3. Look for where others have been, if it's a popular route, chalk, polish, vegetation, clean rock all help. Some times you just get it wrong. What to do then is subjective. Knowing when to back off or when to push on is a good skill to have!
Have fun, climb safe.
