UKC

Hi
Two & half weeks ago a hold (climbing wall) I was standing on suddenly gave, with no warning. Both feet were on this hold, with me kinda laying back, and my left arm was stretched diagonally across right to a three finger pocket. Right hand free. All my weight was suddenly transferred onto my left arm and my grip failed. under the full force of my body & gravity. Usually when I fall, there is pre-knowledge, i.e. you know you are on sketchy ground or that your muscles are giving. This time no sense of imminent fail so no physical prep.

Haven't climed since and been to the chiropractor twice.

Its not a rotator cuff issue: the pain is located on the upper section of the bicep below the actual shoulder joint. Pain is generated when, for example, when lifting arm out to the side or turning it as if using a steering wheel or changing gears.

Anyone with similar experience and how many weeks you could climb again? I'm in good shape and, as age affects recovery time, I am 47. Largely pain free on over-head movements and can dead hang (using both hands).

In reply to Flinticus:
I have had a variety of shoulder injuries that are not rotator cuff problems. Of course they may or may not have been the same aa yours. But a sports physiotherapist should easily be able to help you in one session, as long as you then do the exercises! And if they say do it three times a day, go for gold and do it 10 times a day. Not sure a chiro is an optimal choice here....

Out of interest, are you restricted with moving your left hand behind your back up between your shoulder blades? Tuck your elbow into your hip, bend your elbow 90 degrees, jeep elbow in at hip and pull your left foream to the right against resistance e.g. a door frame, is this pretty painful?

In reply to Flinticus:

I am not a physio or a doctor, but I had similar injuries before. From your description it looks like it could be a partial tear of long head of biceps tendon.
Go see a sports physio, I don't believe the chiropractor will be of much help.

It has taken me about 6 months (including about 10 sessions of ultrasound, laser and transverse friction therapy) to get back to full strength and no pain.

Hope this helps.

In reply to Flinticus:

(Speaking as a musculoskeletal physiotherapist) I'd suggest you go and see a decent musculoskeletal or sports physiotherapist.

I and most (all?) other physios would not provide treatment advice anonymously over the internet, because it'd be against most of our professional standards to do so without doing a proper and full assessment, so bear that in mind when listening to advice that people give you on forums!

In reply to Flinticus:

Thanks all. Yeah, will probably head to the TCA to see a physio.

Doesn't sound like it will heal as soon as hoped.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

Neithere of those movements are painful.