UKC

Unfortunately during A game of non contact touch rugby I managed to dislocate my ring finger. Anyone experienced this and know the recovery times for climbing again?

In reply to samnbuk:

Not had that particular injury myself, but i've known people who have. Predictable answer: it depends on how severe the dislocation was. Did you need surgery following the injury? If so 4-6 weeks before any climbing would be fairly typical advice. If less severe, then maybe sooner. What does your doctor/physio say?

"The success rate of treatment is largely dictated by patient compliance" (physioadvisor.com.au). Not sure if "patient" means someone who consults a health professional, or someone who manages not to be impatient; either way the message is the same: don't push it!

Good luck.

In reply to samnbuk:

Usual disclaimer about seeing a doctor/physio first... but I could imagine doing easier vertical or slabby routes on top rope where you could use your thumb plus index and middle fingers only. How easy is relative to your current maximum - you wouldn't want to be in a situation where you're tempted to use the injured finger. Takes a fair amount of discipline to avoid bumping the grade too high once the easy routes become boring. Especially so when the finger is on the way to recovery, and you re-injure it by climbing too hard.

I haven't had a dislocation, but had a bad middle finger injury last year. End result was I ended up with stronger ring & pinkie fingers on the injured hand since I used them plus the thumb to pinch a lot more.

In reply to samnbuk:

Hi
I also dislocated my ring finger once, at the climbing wall. The hospital put it back in place (cue much screaming) and an x-ray showed I had a small hairline fracture as well. Did your finger pop back or need to be manipulated?

I wore a metal strip with tape round it for a week or two, managing to play league netball at the same time, before returning to gentle climbing again in about 3/4 weeks.

As a matter of interest, the joint has remained permanently misshapen even though this was years ago. My wedding and engagement rings had to be bigger to fit over the joint and then twizzle around on the other side. Just one of those things......

In reply to Babika:

Fortunately it was a simple reset with no surgery or breaks. Doctor suggested 6 weeks normally for sports but couldn't be climbing specific.
I'll have to just take it easy. Already not climbed for 6 weeks prior to injuring myself thanks to work and holiday!

In reply to samnbuk:

Just listen to your body, if it feels wrong when you try, then back off.

I've dislocated all the knuckles apart from one on my right hand, some of them more than once and the thumb dislocates a few times a year - every time is different. I've tried climbing on the Cromlech two days after dislocating a finger, gave up halfway up Cemetery Gates and belayed all day instead. My mate had an ace day! I've climbed in the evening when I've dislocated my thumb in the afternoon, it's obviously easier to avoid using the thumb but it really is a different story each time. There are no rules.

Hope it recovers well.