UKC

I'm flying out to chamonix on Monday. We had big plans to get on some classic routes but are aware that the current hot and unstable conditions might preclude us from getting on the routes we want. It's looking like anything needing an overnight freeze will be out of the question and approaches/descents could be troublesome/dangerous.

I'm interested if anyone has recommendations of routes that would go relative safely in current conditions. We're looking at big mountain trad routes up to 6bish. Cheers!

In reply to metrorat:

We were there a couple of weeks ago, we spent quite a bit of time at the envers Hut, all safe, plenty to do if the bergshrunds are problematic, dries quickly and easy descents (mostly abseils) if you get caught in a storm. Also climbed on the red pillar of blatiere, dries very quickly after heavy rain, don't need to go on snow to get there, abseil descents.

In reply to metrorat:

Facing the same challenge unless the conditions improve drastically in the next two weeks. Currently also looking into climbs from Envers hut like Aiguille de la Republique.

In reply to Luke01:

Cheers both, definitely going to visit the Envers hut and see what's happening. Blatiere is a good shout too. Might head out to Lecheaux refuge to meet the cat too, I gather there's some good routes to do behind the hut.

In reply to metrorat:
lots of (often overlooked) good stuff in the rouge too.

In reply to metrorat:

Would concur with all the above comments Envers and Leschaux also worth a look is the New Aiguille Rouge 2 guide book, some big routes in there and some adventure to be had. Its now available in English...none are really accessed via huts as such, but there are bivi spots up there. Some of the routes are equipped, some just partially. Conditions out here at the moment, August 1st, are a bit of a challenge. re state of glaciers, I'v been here since June 8th and its got progressively worse, and it wasn't that good when I arrived, dry winter and no real top up over spring. have fun.

In reply to metrorat:

I loved this route and it meets your requirements:

Que cherche-tu Jean Marie? (ED1)

In reply to metrorat:

La Lune, Le Rond etc on the Peigne is a pretty good day out, accessible (if not climbable!) in any conditions.

In reply to metrorat:


Just back from the Leschaux, great granite on all points, no problems on access as all routes are snow free & the access to Petite Jorasses is supposed to be good, may try to find out on this coming Friday.
Great refuge, great food & very quiet...
Not a cat lover, but suppose as cats go, its ok -))

In reply to walts4:
I think the cat is called Jorasses, that's got to count for something.

In reply to Misha:

We've been out in the Alps for two weeks. Conditions and weather have been challenging at times. We have just spent a brilliant week climbing perfect alpine granite in the Swiss Andermatt area. Highly recommended!