In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, another busy busy week but i got through it just about!
M: Indoor Boulder; 25 move circuit followed by onsight attempt on medium boulder then 15 moves of circuit. 3 sets, 15 mins rest.
TRX; low rows, front flys, reverse flys, typewriters on rings.
T: Bouldershed; problems in doubles with 5 sec rest between, 6 sets, 4 min between sets. was doing up to V6 on the Moonboard, felt strong.
Flexibility; stretches.
W: Indoor Boulder; Hard problem repeated 7 times with 2.5min rests. Only did 2 sets
Lever lifts and kicks; various holds and lifts of front lever variations.
T: Indoor Routes; continuity 10 on 10 off x3
F: fingerboard; 10 sec hangs up to 15kg on small outer lower BM2K slots
Antagonist theraband
S: Indoor Boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20's between, just did 2 sets.
Medium boulder repeat twice, rest on top jug then repeat 3rd time followed by 8 min on easy ground. Only did 2 sets
S: Fingerboard; AA edge 5s on 5s off x6. 4 sets at +20kg. 2rm pull ups, 3 sets at +52.5kg
Lever lifts and kicks; as above.
Big week again but I got through it, you might notice I dropped the number of sets on some of the boulder sessions, this was on Oli's advice to keep my fingers happy and it seems to be working. I'm still able to pull hard but the fingers are slowly improving and barely hindering me at all, can't complain about that.
I think this matches up with Ally's experience of the Training beta podcast advice to load the injured finger on the FB, i'm not doing it in quite such a controlled manner by using a systems board, but then it is only a minor injury so i'm relatively safe.
Pull ups at +52.5kg was pleasing, i'd still really like to do +100% bodyweight (65kg), I suppose I could come down to meet it by a couple of kilos but +63kg is still a long way off!
Did some blatant showing off on Saturday, I mean what's the point of training for nearly a year if you don't get to fire off the big guns now and then? I flashed a tricky roof problem that bunch of friends were working by ignoring their clever heel beta and using blatantly unnecessary lock-offs and static campus reaches. I got called some names. Worth it.
last weeks STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 3 weeks away - TICK
* get on Saskatchedoodoo... this weekend - Rain stopped play
new STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 2 weeks away
* get on Prison sex this weekend
MTG: (next few months)
* Maybe an 8a in Kaly, Sardonique is a prime target
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year