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UKC FitClub week 541

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 Dandan 30 Jul 2017
UKC FitClub Week 541

Afternoon FitClubbers!
I’m guessing there will be few less tales of outdoor action from this weekend due to the inclement weather but I hope you have all found something to occupy your time...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=668012

Last Weeks Posters:

Tyler - Decorating never comes to an end! Did you manage Myra this week?
Hms - I’m terrible for mis-reading sessions, always doing things one the wrong holds or too many times.
AJM - I hear Virgin Albino went this week? Also well done on not breaking your child!
Biscuit - Well done on boadicea and also well done for the public spirited action of cleaning a climb.
Mrchewy - Welcome back! Some impressive goals and impressive achievements, glad your wrist hasn’t put paid to your climbing.
Ally Smith - Maybe Gresham was right about the tick being a month away, excellent work!
Just Tintin - I hope the epiphany leads you down some exciting new paths, and up some new routes!
The sheep - 2000km and it’s only July, do you think you could managee 4000 by year end?
TheFasting - Epic! Type 2 fun for sure but would you do another big multipitch?
AlanLittle - With care you can maintain power whilst training endurance and vice-versa, but it is a fine line.
Si dH - Definitely inspirational, thanks!
Hokkyokusei - Sorry to hear about the shoulder, sometimes the only thing you can do is give it some time.
Mattrm - With the baby imminent I think we can understand if you don’t get much exercise done for a little while (about 18 years at a guess)
Dandan - Busy busy
Planetmarshall - Those fingerboard weights are coming down! Good thing too looking at the amount of goal routes you’ve set yourself!
 AJM 30 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:
> AJM - I hear Virgin Albino went this week? Also well done on not breaking your child!

Cheers Dan. The real fun starts tomorrow I think, when mrsAJM goes back to work and nominally I am left in charge of miniAJM (it may in practice be the other way round)

I'm sure I intended to do lots this week. I sort of did - taking the baby to the beach for the first time and things like that - but as far as Fit Club goes I have very little climbing to report. Weather and partners struggled to coincide, and yesterday's weather was generically rubbish.

My highlight, as you say, was Virgin Albino (f7A), which I did this morning in a short raid - leave the house at 6, at the base of the problem by about 715, ticked by 830, leaving for home again having played on some other stuff before 10.
Edit: video here https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKrfn2jw-t/?taken-by=andyjmorris1

I tried Workshy (f7B) again afterwards. A chalk tick identified a toe hook which means I can do the second move now. There are basically 4 moves I think. For the first move, Huffys video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKF8mG6sXi0) makes it look like the supporting block is in, which might offer a potential solution, although I've also found an older video from the FA claiming that it's now out due to some building work on the landing zone. So I don't know, but to be honest if Huffy reckons it's 7B with the block I'll happily take it. Neither of these potential developments makes the big move to the lip any easier mind you so I don't envisage this being a quick tick. In fact, getting to the point of being able to do it is probably still a marker point for a definite strength breakthrough.

Don't really know how this week is going to go. I'm working 2 days per week now for the next 11 weeks, but I expect this week to be the stress adjustment week and any hope of taking the wee one out walking/bouldering I'm mainly anticipating in future weeks when I am on top of things. However, given Kalymnos is approaching I may have to declare nap time to be foot on campus time
Post edited at 17:08
 TheFasting 30 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:
Yeah climbing is all about getting better for alpine climbing for me, so that was just practice. Only question is if I scare off all my climbing partners before I get good enough.

This week I did Galdhøpiggen (2469m) and Glittertind (2465m) within 3 days of each other. The latter with snow coming in sideways and very low visibility.

My training this spring must have worked because I felt perfectly fine after those even when doing 3000 vertical meters in a week. Nice to feel some results.
Post edited at 19:01
 hms 30 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:
thanks Dan. I actually got outside this week - only once though.

M - cycle commute. Yoga - core week2.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR. Really good ancap session on the hard upstairs circuit - 15 moves, 2 1/2 min rest, x 4; repeat 3 times. Then 1 min on, 1 min off on 6c circuit, bumping down to 6a circuit when my arms started to fry.
W - cycle commute. TRX - Is, Ys & Ts. Theraband elbow stuff.
T - Brean with D1, her on Roof of Iniquity & me trying Storm Warning. Lead all the moves but in fairly short links. Was surprised how well I remembered the Chulilla top.
F- 2 miles urban walking, mild rehab.
S - UCR long routes session. Good goes on 2 new 7bs but no ticks. Came off top of a new 7a due to not thinking - twice!! Back home and 1min on:1min off x10 on big slots aerocap, TRX, weights, theraband.
S - FB session: warmup, 1 hand swaps with feet on stool (elbow really hates this one - I may have to sack it off & replace with a different strength session). Continuous hang using 4 finger drag (45 sec) and 3 finger drag (50 sec). 1min on;1min off x 10 using proper half crimp, with 10kg assist.
 Tyler 30 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:
> Tyler - Decorating never comes to an end!
It certainly feels that way but I'm nearly done now, I must be.....

M: Shortest circular run, 33 mins
T: Kilnsey, got Myra second go of evening after changing my sequence on the upper bit after dropping it again. As it was, on RP go I cocked things up low down but still managed it so the new beta was good, just a pity it's taken sessions to discover.
W: The last of the decorating....
T: Kilnsey, got on Stumped (7a+ my arse!) for a quick tick, by the end of the night I still hadn't done all the moves! Even the Steel Fingered Queen of the Crag was struggling and that sort of think is her bag. Tuesday's euphoria was short lived!
F: Silverstone looking at very rich people drive expensive cars as though they were old bangers. Managed a 5km treadmill run in the evening
S: Wandered around Bletchley Park in awe, felt very thick! More Silvestone exotica in the afternoon
S: Kilnsey in search of a new project. What better than The Bulge for someone who can't do the moves on a 7a+? Had two stick clipping efforts, my anti-style but unlike other similar routes I reckon I will at least do a fair bit of climbing while failing on this, did very few of the moves. Belayed Ally on his mega project, good to see where it went

This week had its ups and downs but managed something on 5 days so an improvement. I'm carrying half a grade in extra weight but not sure where the other grade and a half is coming from.
STG: 5 days of excercise with at least two trips to Kilnsey (weather permitting).
MTG: Before Kilnsey turns to rat shit for the year (assuming this is not already happening) turn Project Deluded into Project Possible (definitely won't be Project Done this season).
LTG: Dec try to Spain, L'escamarlà (7c+), Mandrágora (7b+)
Post edited at 22:49
 Ally Smith 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Tyler:

> MTG: Before Kilnsey turns to rat shit for the year (assuming this is not already happening)...

NOOO!!! It's not going to get wetter, everything is going to be fine (la la la, fingers in my ears, la, la, la)

> turn Project Deluded into Project Possible (definitely won't be Project Done this season).

You're going to add to your STG - stretch unbelievably inflexible legs everyday, right?



 Ally Smith 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan - i had an injury worry mid-week which seems to have receded, but plans to go South for the weekend were abandoned based on a poor weather forecast, hence i ended up back on the project, which is getting quite damp. Does anyone have experience of using tin-foil in wet pockets?!?

Week 31
M - Longridge after work. First half felt smeggy, so worked on the second half. Got gripped on high-break and got really pumped on the f6c jugs! Came off the 2nd drop down on Bend of the Rainbow. 4 goes later I’d calmed down enough (and gotten a 2 extra pads out the car) and cruised this section and on through Bend with elbows out. I fell off Lowlife traverse afterwards (didn’t rest that long in the corner); repeated this section a couple of times to cement in the beta.
T - Nowt
W - Blast around AWS boulder room. 30-ish problems in quick succession. Flashed some apparent V8’s and couldn’t touch some of the V6’s; typical indoor grading lottery. Good sweaty workout, but wrist was hurting by the end.
T - Back on the dead-hang bandwagon; Lopez max-hangs on BM2K-AA. Progressive sets to stress test the wrist, building up to 1x 10s@BW+43.5kg (same last main set 2 weeks ago), then
3x10s @BW+48kg on BM2K-AA slot.
25kg barbell 12xOHP & 20xrows in rest periods.
3 sets I’s, reverse T’s and narrow/wide pull-ups & 12x 25kgOHP.
Finished with some brutal massage from GF on tight upper traps.
F - Nowt; stressfully failing at science all day. Beer, pizza, pudding, brain-dead trashy film, sleep.
S - Last minute partner found for Kilnsey (Nomics, ex- of this parish) 4 goes on project, refining some new beta, then earnt extra brownie points by being home when expected to be away
S - Kilnsey; twice up project. Great RP attempt with new beta tweak to get around move I’ve been dropping on previous efforts. Got through to equal highpoint, but wet pocket stopped me. 2 goes on 50 for 5 - The Ashes (link up) (8a+) almost did it despite some bad beta – getting that close that quick on a Yorkshire 8a+ confirmed to me that the project is ~f8b to the jug where it joins Freakshow. Just another 8a+/b to do from the jug at the end of this sequence to the top...
 Tyler 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> You're going to add to your STG - stretch unbelievably inflexible legs everyday, right?

You can imagine my delight on finding there's no bridging on the hard parts of the Bulge. That said, I do intend to do some mobility stuff as even the bottom groove feels uphill whereas I'm sure with some flexibility and finesse it could be done without much effort. I'd also like to be able to put on my socks without making audible grunts and get in out out of cars without having to haul myself!

1
 the sheep 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:
> The sheep - 2000km and it’s only July, do you think you could manage 4000 by year end?

Cheers, year goal is 3000, will get there and see about setting a higher total

Been a busy week with the kids and at times wife away, went as follows;

Monday, 15km ride to work and 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 15km ride to work and 1km lunchtime swim then the big one. The wife and I decided that one evening when the kids were away we would run home from work and Tuesday was the day. 16.6km in 1 hour 46, not fast but our longest run yet. Lucky to have a very nice evening for it and certainly felt like I had earned dinner at the pub that night

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home

Thursday, 15km ride to work and 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home

Friday, 15km ride to work and 1km lunchtime swim and 16km ride home

Saturday, 10km run out on the trails, muddy ground made for hard going

Sunday, Rest and possibly a bit too much wine in the evening!
Post edited at 12:23
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Cheers Dan - i had an injury worry mid-week which seems to have receded, but plans to go South for the weekend were abandoned based on a poor weather forecast, hence i ended up back on the project, which is getting quite damp. Does anyone have experience of using tin-foil in wet pockets?!

I found Tesco carrier bags worked in the starting pocket of Raindogs - the cheaper and crinklier the plastic, the better the friction is.
 planetmarshall 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> Planetmarshall - Those fingerboard weights are coming down! Good thing too looking at the amount of goal routes you’ve set yourself!

Yes indeed, and definitely feeling the benefits. Aim is to do the full Beastmaker 5a routine, 7 reps at bodyweight by September.

Mon - Hill Sprints. Fingerboard (BM 5a, 5reps @ -18kg)
Tue - Bouldering at Higgar Tor. 12 problems from the Orange Rockfzx circuit, including Not like Pommel (f5) and the slightly terrifying The Big Slab (f4+). V1s starting to feel straightforward, V2s within a couple of tries.
Wed - Rest
Thu - Trail Run. 11km/400m
Fri - Bouldering at Manchester Depot. Such a great venue, pain in the arse to get to. 2x 11 problems on the blue circuit, 1:45m rest between each problem.
Sat - Long walk on Derwent Edge
Sun - Some random stuff in Langdale for the BBC. Middlefell Buttress (D) in big boots in the rain, which was fun.

STG

Last week's goals:

* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting) - Fail.
* Increase FB weight by 4kg, drop reps to 4. - Done
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend. - Done (Although 1 was more of a walk)
* 1 Max effort bouldering session - Went outside instead
* 1 circuits bouldering session - Done

Moving to 2 weeks of Power training in prep for Kalymnos in Sept. Probably will eschew campusing in favour of some limit bouldering. Might even do this outside if I can find something suitable.

Next week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight to -10kg, 4 reps per hang
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session

MTG

OMM End October

Left shoulder rehab.
Kalymnos in September
Magma (6b+)
Something in the Grande Grotta Area,
Elefantenhimmel (7a) maybe.

British Trad Routes:

The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone

Bouldering

Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)

LTG

The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)

> Scottish Winter 2017/18

Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.



 Tyler 31 Jul 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Sun - Some random stuff in Langdale for the BBC. Middlefell Buttress (D) in big boots in the rain, which was fun.

"The" BBC? Sounds interesting.

 planetmarshall 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Tyler:

> "The" BBC? Sounds interesting.

I assure you I was merely there for decoration (or belaying duty). Doing some audio recording for a potential Radio 3 production.
 mrchewy 31 Jul 2017
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan.

Mon - Picked up 'new' car, a 1998 Honda V6 coupe. Totally impractical for work and a total non starter as a van/home replacement but boy do I like it. Bit of a chaotic day as had so much to sort after scrapping the van abroad.
Tue - Some pressups and stretching. Again busy and moved into the spare room of an old friend. Financially it makes sense as it leaves most of the rent from my house still available for trips etc. Went out for a drink with the landlady, rum punches. She was sick at the bar, at home and in the morning. Oh dear.
Wed - Some pressups. Deep tissue back massage. Totally wiped me out if I'm honest, it'd not been this tight before but then I've never laybacked so much before in such a short period.
Thu - A whole world of pain from my back. Bailed on everything.
Fri - Family funeral, so a long drive in the Honda. 26mpg will do but not sure I wanna drive to Spain in her this winter, I'd be bankrupt but happy. So happy.
Sat - Not feeling overly well at all. Had to head into work to give estimates and then bailed to bed at 6pm.
Sun - Rubicon. The idea was to get on Trunk of Punk but a friend had a top rope on it, went up twice feeling tired but I'm not top roping that again, it was awkward and crap. Traversed around a lot and was thoroughly knackered when I left. Left shoulder needs some serious rehab again, so made a start at the crag.

A lot going on this week and I tend not to climb well when it's like this, I had a 12.5 hour sleep on Sunday night and feel grim today, so I guess I'm a little under the weather. Maybe all the stress in Switzerland and from the funeral finally caught up. I dunno. Hopefully better this week.

STG - Rehab left shoulder. Get pressups working properly.
MTG - Salbit West Grat
LTG - See above
BHAG - See above
 mrchewy 31 Jul 2017
In reply to mrchewy:



> Sun - Rubicon. The idea was to get on Trunk of Punk but a friend had a top rope on it, went up twice feeling tired but I'm not top roping that again, it was awkward and crap. Traversed around a lot and was thoroughly knackered when I left. Left shoulder needs some serious rehab again, so made a start at the crag.


As in, top roping made it feel awkward and crap - I've been up on it on lead before and it was fun, if too strong for me at the moment but it was horrid with a top rope.

OP Dandan 01 Aug 2017
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me, another busy busy week but i got through it just about!

M: Indoor Boulder; 25 move circuit followed by onsight attempt on medium boulder then 15 moves of circuit. 3 sets, 15 mins rest.
TRX; low rows, front flys, reverse flys, typewriters on rings.

T: Bouldershed; problems in doubles with 5 sec rest between, 6 sets, 4 min between sets. was doing up to V6 on the Moonboard, felt strong.
Flexibility; stretches.

W: Indoor Boulder; Hard problem repeated 7 times with 2.5min rests. Only did 2 sets
Lever lifts and kicks; various holds and lifts of front lever variations.

T: Indoor Routes; continuity 10 on 10 off x3

F: fingerboard; 10 sec hangs up to 15kg on small outer lower BM2K slots
Antagonist theraband

S: Indoor Boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20's between, just did 2 sets.
Medium boulder repeat twice, rest on top jug then repeat 3rd time followed by 8 min on easy ground. Only did 2 sets

S: Fingerboard; AA edge 5s on 5s off x6. 4 sets at +20kg. 2rm pull ups, 3 sets at +52.5kg
Lever lifts and kicks; as above.

Big week again but I got through it, you might notice I dropped the number of sets on some of the boulder sessions, this was on Oli's advice to keep my fingers happy and it seems to be working. I'm still able to pull hard but the fingers are slowly improving and barely hindering me at all, can't complain about that.
I think this matches up with Ally's experience of the Training beta podcast advice to load the injured finger on the FB, i'm not doing it in quite such a controlled manner by using a systems board, but then it is only a minor injury so i'm relatively safe.

Pull ups at +52.5kg was pleasing, i'd still really like to do +100% bodyweight (65kg), I suppose I could come down to meet it by a couple of kilos but +63kg is still a long way off!

Did some blatant showing off on Saturday, I mean what's the point of training for nearly a year if you don't get to fire off the big guns now and then? I flashed a tricky roof problem that bunch of friends were working by ignoring their clever heel beta and using blatantly unnecessary lock-offs and static campus reaches. I got called some names. Worth it.

last weeks STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 3 weeks away - TICK
* get on Saskatchedoodoo... this weekend - Rain stopped play

new STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 2 weeks away
* get on Prison sex this weekend

MTG: (next few months)
* Maybe an 8a in Kaly, Sardonique is a prime target
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)


LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

 AlanLittle 01 Aug 2017
In reply to Dandan:

STG: (1) book flights for Kalymnos. Oops. Flight booking situation for October half term already looks dire. Need to discuss with prospective partners pronto.
(2) sort out partners for UK visit in August. Tick.
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Bike one hour
T: "Rest"? Office summer party.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bit slow to get going, unsurprisingly on account of the crushing hangover, and didn't really feel like trying anything hard. But still managed a decent session in the end, 10 routes 6a to 6b+, including a couple more payments into the Building Confidence By Onsighting Steep Juggy 6b's bank account.
T: Rest
F: Had planned to go (indoor) bouldering, but had a hard week at work -lots to get finished before holiday - so chilled at home and did a fingerboard session instead.
S: Beginning of Bavarian school holidays.
S: Drive to Frankenjura for Family Holiday Phase 1. Stopped off for a play at Cafe Kraft in Nürnberg on the way.
 hokkyokusei 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Dandan:

> Afternoon FitClubbers!

Afternoon!

> Hokkyokusei - Sorry to hear about the shoulder, sometimes the only thing you can do is give it some time.

m - physio
t - 5k run
w - 9k run. with Mrs Hokky, I'm trying to coach her to running her first 10k in October
t - rest
f - Too much drinking
s - Too much drinking
s - rest

STG
Keep my weight down - made some progress with this and it seems to have stabilised.

MTG
September - Yorkshireman off-road half marathon
October - Budapest marathon
 biscuit 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the efforts Dan.

People say it's public spirited but I cleaned that climb so I could climb it It's a happy by product that it's now cleaner for others. I'll take the credit though. Still happy with the climb and keen to go back and get Mandarin done. It's given me a good confidence boost for bashing on with some harder trad. Still sticking to the no goals/ambitions and will just see what takes my fancy. I'd REALLY like to get back and do Concrete Dream and spend a couple of days on Scafell. However the weather is very much not playing ball.

Anyway my actual report for last week is nothing. Spent the week in Scotland following a very hasty van 'conversion' in a weekend. Best holiday I've had with the kids for years. No plans, tickling trout, swimming in lochs/the sea and messing about on some amazing beaches in the NW. We stank when we got back though.

Not much damage to the diet on the hols and I seem to be forming some good healthy eating habits.

This week is also going to be no climbing as i'm on a uni placement and Summer hols duty but i'm biking each day to placement and starting to feel like i'm getting my bike legs back.
Post edited at 21:35
 The Fox 04 Aug 2017
In reply to biscuit:

> I'll take the credit though.

?
 biscuit 04 Aug 2017
In reply to The Fox:

Your half was filthy after you'd 'cleaned' it. No credit there

 The Fox 04 Aug 2017
In reply to biscuit:

half?

 biscuit 04 Aug 2017
In reply to The Fox:

5/8's and that's my final offer!

 mattrm 06 Aug 2017
In reply to Dandan:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 12lbs

M - W - Rest
T - 17 routes at the Rec
F - DIY
S - BABY!!!!!
S - Rest

I did actually get some climbing done. I'd been hoping to go for a run at the weekend, but the Wife and I went out for a coffee on Saturday and her waters broke the moment we got there. Baby came out at 1157. So I've actually got an excuse for not having done much this week. Plans for next week? Sleep?
 Si dH 06 Aug 2017
In reply to mattrm:
Congrats Matt!
Ours arrived two weeks early on Monday, it's been a roller coaster, but well worth it, and I'm sure yours will be too
Assuming this is your first (?), the only advice I would give so far is to make damn sure the new arrival and your other half are both eating enough, especially if breast feeding, and make sure you sleep whenever you can, day as well as night.
Si

Ps. If have fitted in a couple of Fingerboard sessions between feeds, so training is doable, but it's hard to stay psyched after 2 hours' broken sleep...

Edit: if you were actually talking about the week before and are two days ahead of us, then just ignore everything I just wrote
Post edited at 19:12

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