UKC

Morning all,

We're off to Scotland for 2 weeks in September, and I'm looking for some suggestions on some classic long routes from VD to VS. Weve borrowed some old guidebooks from a colleague, but there seems to be so much, it's difficult to pick out a handful or so.

We haven't set an itinerary yet, so location isn't an issue, but the guidebooks cover the cairngorms, Highland and lowland outcrops, and a general 'rock climbing in Scotland'. I don't mind buying another guide if need be. Also scrambling suggestions welcome.

Thanks,
Simon

In reply to The Norris:

Cuillin Ridge on Skye; won't get a longer or more classic route anywhere!!! Enjoy your trip and hopefully the midges will be less vicious by September.

In reply to atrendall:

It's on the list! Any other particularly stand out routes?

In reply to The Norris:

Cairngorm suggestions
Eagle Ridge
Scabbard
Clean Sweep

In reply to The Norris:
Tick off some Classic Rock ticks on a East to West road trip starting in Glencoe,
Spartan Slab - Glen Etive, Agag's Groove - Buckle.
Then drive to Fort Bill and Tower Ridge - Ben Nevis, continue on to near Kingussie and tick off Ardverkie Wall - Beinn Shaus.
Drive onto Aviemove and and Savage Slit.
Spartan Slab (VS 4c)
Agag's Groove (Summer) (VD)
Tower Ridge (D)
Ardverikie Wall (HS 4b)
Savage Slit (Summer) (S)
If you get the weather right in Glencoe you can continue to follow the good weather as you move east : )
Pete

In reply to The Norris:
Some that I can't see having been mentioned yet:
Creagan a Choire Etchachan (incorrectly titled on UKC as Creag a Choire Etchachan): The Dagger, Scabbard and Djibangi All VS. None are all that long but the 3 make a great day.
Ben Nevis: The Long Climb VS. Now that IS long. (Been known to make a great (?) 2 days!)
Skye: The Dubh Ridge M. Even longer!
Skye: Sron na Ciche: Arrow Route / Wallwork's Route VDiff
Skye: Sron na Ciche: Shangri La VS
Sgurr a'Chaorachain: The Nose VDiff.

If you end up in the east escaping wet weather in the west think about a trip to Creag an Dubh Loch. The only VS I've done there is Mousetrap which was good but I've always regretted not trying one of the easier routes on the central slabs such as Black Mamba although I hear the HVSs are better. See No match for crag id:23

In reply to The Norris:

Central buttress, Ben Eighe (and East and West)

Anything at Reiff for a non mountain day

In reply to The Norris:

It would be rude not to include The Cioch Nose, Applecross and The Old Man of Stoer.

In reply to Removed UserStuart en Écosse:

Thanks very much guys, I'm looking forward to planning it all. And hope the midges aren't as bad as I've heard!

In reply to The Norris:

If the weather's good it's hard to beat Sron na Ciche on Skye.
The ultra classic link-up is...
Cioch West (S 4a)
Arrow Route (VD)
Integrity (VS 4c)

In reply to The Norris:

Scottish Rock volumes 1 and 2 (both now on 2nd edition) are well worth buying / borrowing.
you might even be able to order-in and borrow a copy from your local Library - seen that done before.
these will all you need to know and give plenty of options if your main objective isn't a goer.

2 weeks isn't long and I'd be wary of spending too much time travelling (and doing epic walk-in/out s) and not enough time climbing.
personally I'd pick a few areas (coe/Sky/gorms/AppleX) or a region and see what's available - the weather gods are not likely to grant you every route on the day you want.

hope you have a nice time whatever the weather

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