UKC

Hey guys!

I'm a brit who's been working in Colorado for the summer as a guide, and in early September the plan is to take a roadtrip over to Yosemite with a co-worker with as many fun climbing stops along the way as possible.


Was wondering whether anybody had advice for such an undertaking, or had done a similar trip before and would be able to recommend some stops along the way. I probably don't own enough cams of same sizes to do much at Indian Creek sadly (also I'm a crack climbing amateur)...

There is also room for more in the car if people are interested in joining.. Flying back to the UK around the 20th of September.

In reply to myrddinmuse:

Try to include Lovers leap. Have a great time.

In reply to myrddinmuse:

Go do some towers round moab instead, ancient art looks ace. Generally need fewer cams. You can always tag along with a big group in the creek and cam share - the first time I went I only had doubles of some stuff and I managed to find plenty of stuff to do. You will definitely learn quickly in the creek.... Tuolumne meadows is close to yosemite. Joshua tree and bishop are within a not unreasonable distance. Joe's valley is ace and the limestone sport around salt lake city is supposed to be good.

In reply to myrddinmuse:

We did a similar thing once, though in the opposite direction. Included IIRC Yosemite, Tuolomne, Bishop (bouldering & sport), Arches, Maple Canyon, Rifle and Eldorado. All were well worth visiting and impressively varied. Our only problem was heat, as our trip coincided with a heatwave and it was pretty close to midsummer.

In reply to myrddinmuse:

More importantly how did you get your job as a guide? Itd be great to talk to you about that!?

In reply to myrddinmuse:

while in Colorado it would be rude not to pop north of the state line to Vedauwoo, its Dartmoor on steroids! although 90% crack climbing you tend to need a veriety of sizes and being granite, nuts are very useful, so feels more akin to british trad than American spliter cracks.

In reply to myrddinmuse:

Southern route: Moab area (towers), Zion, Red Rocks, Needles, Yosemite. Or if the first three are too warm (north facing routes should be fine in Sept.), do Needles to Sierras alpine, to Yosemite.

“Direct” route: Notch Peak (by Delta, UT – multi-pitch lines on its N. Face look fantastic if adventurous), Lovers Leap, Yosemite.

Northern route: City Of Rocks in Idaho, Sawtooths (also ID, check out Elephants Perch), Lovers Leap, Yosemite.

Too bad Devils Tower is kind of out of the way as it probably is in the top 5 among unique N. American climbing venues.

In reply to rpc:

Thanks guys, that's all incredibly useful... So much to see and do!

@kellyb, it was kind of a flukey thing really! Was looking for something close to boulder with access to transport and employee housing, found a newly built ropes course in Winter Park that fit the bill! So happened the guy who runs it (Czech guy, absolute legend) was looking for someone to help him run easy top rope stuff on some gneiss outcrops in the national forest, and I have SPA and experience so I fit the bill! He might be looking for brits next year too, I can get you in touch. I have dual citizenship though so that cut out a lot of hassle.

I've been trying to figure out a way to Vedauwoo for a little while, it looks like just the place for me, haha! Hopefully will make it there this month! Devil's tower is another that I fear I might just miss out on... Wish I had more time off!